Worsley Works brass SR EMU kits. "How-to"

[Thebaz]

Hi all, I'm thinking of investing in a couple of said EMU kits Worsley works - probably Class 421/423. But there are some issues... namely I've never built anything from a kit before so I don't have the foggiest what the best approach is or what I'll need in terms of tools and adhesives. I consider it a long term project since I haven't even got a layout at the moment as I don't have the space for one. 

 

Questions range from:

Should I use a specific type of glue or are they for soldering (I cannot solder for love nor money)?

At what stage should I paint the models - when complete? or panel by panel? 

And what are the best paints?

Recommended bogies and how-to install them?

Recommended motors

Whether to install DC or DCC (probably the latter by the way things seem to be going).

 

Then stuff about building realistic under-carriage components. 

 

 

Am I mad?

[Siberian Snooper]

The first thing I would say is get a couple of cheap brass wagon kits under your belt before attempting to build anything in brass and I would recommend learning to solder, as A) it's quicker and B) you can take it apart and have another go,by either using a hot air gun or bunging it in the oven at around 300C.

[TT-Pete]

Mad? No. Ambitious? Probably.

 

I am currently in the process of building the Worsley Works 2 car "Thumper" in TT 3mm scale;

 

Allen describes his kits as "scratch aids", so they are by definition very basic with no instructions or castings. If you've never built a kit before I'd suggest that you might find them very challenging.

 

As they are all brass then soldering is the best way to go. I suppose you could use super-glue or a 2-part glue like araldite, but I decided that if I wanted to build brass kits, then I'd need to learn to solder. It's not insurmountable and as with everything requires patience and practice, but I started with smaller (and cheaper!) wagon kits as you learn by making mistakes...

 

I'm using bogies salvaged from old coaches and a motor bogie originally meant for NG locos running on 12mm gauge. In OO you'll probably be spoiled for choice...

 

My preference is to get the chassis running first and then build the bodies and not to paint until everything is assembled. At the moment the roofs are held in place with masking tape as I am having to scratchbuild the interiors.

 

Glazing, handrails, roof vents etc... will need some thought as none of these are included in the kits.

 

Worsely Works run annual modelling weekends, if you are serious about having a go at kitbulding I can't recommend it highly enough:

http://www.worsleyworks.co.uk/WW/Modellers_Weekend.htm

 

Cheers,

Peter.

 

[nick_bastable]

they do build up into nice basic shells but need  quite a lot of details added   yet another 3 car 207   this time in 2mm  

 

 

 

 

 

 

DCC sound fitted   Photo's taken   2016 2mm AGM  visiting bcnpetes Thurso layout

 

NIck

[Thebaz]

Thanks for the tips so far guys. I neglected to mention I'm intending to do this in 2mm scale! It does seem to be more complicated than I first thought. Didn't realise there was no glazing! Presumably cables horns and other detail is also missing? As you say it may be better for me to purchase some cheap wagon kits to practice on but I won't really have a use for them afterwards. 

 

Trouble is I'm interested in modelling BR SR EMUs (up to present day) so I guess I'm going to have to learn to scratchbuild. Unless there other suppliers of kits (with more detail) in 2mm scale? I note that Farish has sold out of their 80s era SR long-distance slam-door units. I'd pay good money for any VEP/REP/CEP if anyone was selling!

[chris p bacon]

 Didn't realise there was no glazing! Presumably cables horns and other detail is also missing? As you say it may be better for me to purchase some cheap wagon kits to practice on but I won't really have a use for them afterwards. 

 

Trouble is I'm interested in modelling BR SR EMUs (up to present day) so I guess I'm going to have to learn to scratchbuild. Unless there other suppliers of kits (with more detail) in 2mm scale? I note that Farish has sold out of their 80s era SR long-distance slam-door units. I'd pay good money for any VEP/REP/CEP if anyone was selling!

 

Do what I did (many moons ago) I purchased from a club stand some secondhand kits and built them for experience, then sold them on eBay  ( a few years after building) and recovered the initial cost + a bit.

 

You don't have to build a wagon kit but you need to try some techniques with the iron, what about any buildings or small items you might need (BRUTE trolleys for example) that are available.

If all else fails, scratch build a rail bufferstop from scrap rail, it'll get you into bending and cleaning the metal ready for soldering and can take a fair bit of heat and brute force so doesn't matter if you're a bit clumsy to start with.

 

I would say that the kits look good and if you are going to scratchbuild they have already taken you a fair way down the road.

[nick_bastable]

2mm or N Allen does both,  in either scale the 101  motor makes a good bases to start  the express parcels units had two motor bogies.   BH Enterprise has some useful parts reading this has reminded me to finish off the 201 that's been 3/4 built for some years..

 

would also check out the 2mm section on this forum as lots of tips there,   there was a great build thread for a N gauge 3 sub unfortunately all the pictures where lost due to the photo bucket  changes   http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/66512-n-gauge-lswr-3-sub/page-13

 

 

Nick

Edited January 21, 2018 by nick_bastable

[Revolution Mike]

CEP available from Farish but most modern livery is blue grey. Parts for MUs available from BHE and possibly TPM (depending what Bernard has left).

 

Cheers Mike

[Joseph_Pestell]

Mad? No. Ambitious? Probably.

 

I am currently in the process of building the Worsley Works 2 car "Thumper" in TT 3mm scale;

Thump1.JPG

 

Allen describes his kits as "scratch aids", so they are by definition very basic with no instructions or castings. If you've never built a kit before I'd suggest that you might find them very challenging.

 

As they are all brass then soldering is the best way to go. I suppose you could use super-glue or a 2-part glue like araldite, but I decided that if I wanted to build brass kits, then I'd need to learn to solder. It's not insurmountable and as with everything requires patience and practice, but I started with smaller (and cheaper!) wagon kits as you learn by making mistakes...

 

Thump2.JPG

I'm using bogies salvaged from old coaches and a motor bogie originally meant for NG locos running on 12mm gauge. In OO you'll probably be spoiled for choice...

Thump3.JPG

 

My preference is to get the chassis running first and then build the bodies and not to paint until everything is assembled. At the moment the roofs are held in place with masking tape as I am having to scratchbuild the interiors.

Thump4.JPG

 

Glazing, handrails, roof vents etc... will need some thought as none of these are included in the kits.

 

Worsely Works run annual modelling weekends, if you are serious about having a go at kitbulding I can't recommend it highly enough:

http://www.worsleyworks.co.uk/WW/Modellers_Weekend.htm

 

Cheers,

Peter.

Really like that 2H. Might it be worth commissioning someone to 3D print the coach interiors. Must be loads of folk could use them.

[PaulCheffus]

Thanks for the tips so far guys. I neglected to mention I'm intending to do this in 2mm scale! It does seem to be more complicated than I first thought. Didn't realise there was no glazing! Presumably cables horns and other detail is also missing? As you say it may be better for me to purchase some cheap wagon kits to practice on but I won't really have a use for them afterwards. 

 

Trouble is I'm interested in modelling BR SR EMUs (up to present day) so I guess I'm going to have to learn to scratchbuild. Unless there other suppliers of kits (with more detail) in 2mm scale? I note that Farish has sold out of their 80s era SR long-distance slam-door units. I'd pay good money for any VEP/REP/CEP if anyone was selling!

Hi

 

Another option is to use the Worsley Works brass sides as overlays on Farish coaches. I did their 2HAP using this method

http://www.worsleyworks.co.uk/Image-Pages/Image_N_2HAP.htm

 

Cheers

 

Paul

[Thebaz]

CEP available from Farish but most modern livery is blue grey. Parts for MUs available from BHE and possibly TPM (depending what Bernard has left).

 

Cheers Mike

 

Is it still available? Definitely says sold out at Hattons. Who else would sell this model? Even if the livery is not the one I want there is the option of Electra Railway Graphics overlays I suppose (if he does 4CEP).

 

Hi

 

Another option is to use the Worsley Works brass sides as overlays on Farish coaches. I did their 2HAP using this method

http://www.worsleyworks.co.uk/Image-Pages/Image_N_2HAP.htm

 

Cheers

 

Paul

 

That 2HAP looks really good Paul. Did you cut the sides completely off the Farish Mk1s or overlay them? And you didn't use the WW cab ends?

[PaulCheffus]

Is it still available? Definitely says sold out at Hattons. Who else would sell this model? Even if the livery is not the one I want there is the option of Electra Railway Graphics overlays I suppose (if he does 4CEP).

 

 

 

That 2HAP looks really good Paul. Did you cut the sides completely off the Farish Mk1s or overlay them? And you didn't use the WW cab ends?

Hi

 

Thanks.

 

I overlaid the sides as I used the older Farish coaches with the window inserts.

 

Cheers

 

Paul