Jump to content
 

School Project - The Victorian Railway


Recommended Posts

And terriers aren't the only light railway engine out there....

 

Ah, but I wanted a pretty engine for the Butterfly role!

 

There are other engines, and they are all lovely, but none have the same elegance, 'yer see...

 

 

Those buses look like they were made in a jelly mould.

 

This is a proper bus.

 

bus1920-1.jpg

 

Ah, the basis for another light railway machine!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Of course, some of the most spectacular, stripiest, caterpillars turn into moths, rather than butterflies.

 

Periodically, the DeHavilland flying club has a gigantic rally at Woburn Abbey, where hundreds of Moths and the like assemble and perform. It is an absolutely superb day out, just like going to a 1930s air display, and usually at least one plane overshoots the grass landing and ends up in the shallows of a lake, which makes it interesting.

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=kyb3hGRfjfc Flavour of it here.

post-26817-0-20437500-1524299513_thumb.jpeg

Edited by Nearholmer
  • Like 7
Link to post
Share on other sites

Ah, but I wanted a pretty engine for the Butterfly role!

 

There are other engines, and they are all lovely, but none have the same elegance, 'yer see...

 

 

 

Ah, the basis for another light railway machine!

Got something similar on the stocks for my O-16.5 narrow gauge railway.

 

I know, I know.  So many things on the go, never finish any of them.......

Link to post
Share on other sites

I am now seriously behind.  Will I get the motion sorted?  That might take all day tomorrow! 

 

It has taken all day to get the Hackworth mounted on wheels and running (but she does run!!!), due in large part to the extent of the surgery required to the tenders.  Sem needs a full report for the purpose of revisions, so gory details to follow, but in the meantime ....

post-25673-0-61817800-1524333156_thumb.jpg

  • Like 12
Link to post
Share on other sites

If you don't mind my saying so, she does look the business, but even from here I can see how much carving out you needed to do, particularly on the rear tender.

 

Was the problem with the front tender that it sat too high? Or was it only the axleboxes? Both tenders need starting again at any rate, But I think the loco has come out quite well in the end. Mind you, I need to amend it to thicken up the rear footplate, so you have somewhere to put crew!

 

Linny's wheel inserts really lift it too... I really need to chat to him about those.

 

That said, and I would really like someone to correct me here, but is this the first running Hackworth loco in 4mm scale? If so, then I think James is to be very highly congratulated for being so willing to spend money on a few pieces of plastic that I designed a bit badly (as it turns out) and get them to morph into a running loco!

 

For all those interested, I expect that the kit will, if I make it available, be available in both boxed format (With most of the bits to complete it... possibly including etched plates...) or as just the core components via shapeways and/or i.materialise. I say this as getting paid, ordering the prints, then boxing them up allows me to check each print and get it to a reasonable standard before the purchaser receives it. This also, to be blunt, allows me to keep a better track of orders and to engage with you lot better!

Edited by sem34090
  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

If you don't mind my saying so, she does look the business, but even from here I can see how much carving out you needed to do, particularly on the rear tender.

 

Was the problem with the front tender that it sat too high? Or was it only the axleboxes? Both tenders need starting again at any rate, But I think the loco has come out quite well in the end. Mind you, I need to amend it to thicken up the rear footplate, so you have somewhere to put crew!

 

Linny's wheel inserts really lift it too... I really need to chat to him about those.

 

That said, and I would really like someone to correct me here, but is this the first running Hackworth loco in 4mm scale? If so, then I think James is to be very highly congratulated for being so willing to spend money on a few pieces of plastic that I designed a bit badly (as it turns out) and get them to morph into a running loco!

 

For all those interested, I expect that the kit will, if I make it available, be available in both boxed format (With most of the bits to complete it... possibly including etched plates...) or as just the core components via shapeways and/or i.materialise. I say this as getting paid, ordering the prints, then boxing them up allows me to check each print and get it to a reasonable standard before the purchaser receives it. This also, to be blunt, allows me to keep a better track of orders and to engage with you lot better!

 

Not the first, but certainly one of The Few!

 

There is quite a lot of work for you to do, Sem, but I don't see why a corrected and more refined version would not be possible.  Were I to shell out on FUD/FXD prints, more wheel sets and another motor bogie, I'd want a more detailed and sophisticated version, with the bugs ironed out.

 

This, then, should be understood for what it is; a test print of a prototype produced in a hurry. I see no reason why Sem could not derive a production version from this prototype, and, if so, I lot of the work I've had to do today would be unnecessary in the future.

 

Turning to the coal tender, which was the element that we had decided to motorise, I found that the spacing of the axle boxes did not replicate the wheel base of the prototype or that of the motor bogie.  The quoted wheel base on the drawing is 6' 1/4".  That of the motor bogie is 24.5mm.

 

I order to line them up with the drawing, I decided to move both, one slightly and the other by a greater margin.  The axle boxes extended too low, so they are now mounted significantly higher, to match the drawings.

 

The tender sat too high with the motor bogie underneath, though not by much, so I ended up cutting out the entire floor and mounting the bogie under a new floor.

post-25673-0-50848500-1524336405_thumb.jpg

post-25673-0-41093400-1524336432_thumb.jpg

post-25673-0-80573700-1524336526_thumb.jpg

post-25673-0-17137100-1524336635_thumb.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

I now remember what happened...

 

I took your measurements for the motor bogie, then attempted (and failed...) to draw it out in sketchup, and I think I drew it slightly underscale, hence the myriad issues.

 

All will be resolved, but I repeat how grateful I am for everything you've done on this, from providing research material to actually forking out a small fortune on the print. I just apologise that it didn't meet the requirements. Yes, a test print it was, but that's no excuse for some of the errors I made. 

 

Still, I hope to get the kits 'in production' over the summer, and who knows, they may even be available through a physical outlet... If they are impressed enough by this one, which I doubt somewhat, but you never know...

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I now remember what happened...

 

I took your measurements for the motor bogie, then attempted (and failed...) to draw it out in sketchup, and I think I drew it slightly underscale, hence the myriad issues.

 

All will be resolved, but I repeat how grateful I am for everything you've done on this, from providing research material to actually forking out a small fortune on the print. I just apologise that it didn't meet the requirements. Yes, a test print it was, but that's no excuse for some of the errors I made. 

 

Still, I hope to get the kits 'in production' over the summer, and who knows, they may even be available through a physical outlet... If they are impressed enough by this one, which I doubt somewhat, but you never know...

 

I come to praise Sem, not to bury him ....

 

Sem, you did not even have a motor bogie, and I know the software kept crashing and you lost a lot of the changes you made.

 

We are all learning from the experiment, but as proof of concept, I think it shows that you, not one, you, can print a Hackworth that can be run on a layout.

 

Unlike many of today's models, it'll even cope with First Radius track!

 

More involved was the water tender.  On the prototype this has inside bearing wheels and the brakes.

 

No real provision had been made on the print for fitting wheels.

 

You can see from the pictures how much space needed to be carved out.  As a result, the floor is a rad higher than in the drawings, though this is only evident at the front; the rear needed building up anyway in order to match the prototype arrangement.

 

It was then relatively simple to build a chassis to fit the wheels.

post-25673-0-27022100-1524343965_thumb.jpg

post-25673-0-35393600-1524344036_thumb.jpg

post-25673-0-04409400-1524344075_thumb.jpg

post-25673-0-54110100-1524344101_thumb.jpg

post-25673-0-39240500-1524344154_thumb.jpg

post-25673-0-66561200-1524344189_thumb.jpg

post-25673-0-05898400-1524344239_thumb.jpg

post-25673-0-93084100-1524344278_thumb.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

As Young Mr Grace would say, You've ALL done very well!

 

 

As for the railbus I mentioned above, I went and took a couple of snaps of it in its current state to post here, only to discover that the roof wasn't seated correctly so I'll take some more when its light again!

 

Isn't technology wonderful.....

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Stuck!!!!

 

Linny - your card coupling rods fit.  Unfortunately, they seem to flex, which appears to cause the wheels to bind. 

 

The connecting rod is too thick to pass between the slide bars.

 

I have some brass strip, but cannot find a satisfactory or neat way to cut it.

 

 

post-25673-0-01827000-1524407136_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, Sem, I'll try that.

 

It seems I will fail at the last, though.

 

After painting, I cannot get the water tender to run free. The rear axle on the locomotive does not run freely enough (this may have been the problem all along), but I've lost a wheel nut now.

 

Hopeless, hopeless.

 

Way out of my depth and drowning as usual.

 

Just run out of time.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Stuck!!!!

 

Linny - your card coupling rods fit.  Unfortunately, they seem to flex, which appears to cause the wheels to bind. 

 

The connecting rod is too thick to pass between the slide bars.

 

I have some brass strip, but cannot find a satisfactory or neat way to cut it.

 

The alternative if they still are not satisfactory would be to take two pieces of rail and use the cardboard rods as a pattern to drill holes in the rail which can then be cut to length for use as couplings rods - the old fashioned way of making them,

best of luck,

Albyn Austin

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, Sem, I'll try that.

 

It seems I will fail at the last, though.

 

After painting, I cannot get the water tender to run free. The rear axle on the locomotive does not run freely enough (this may have been the problem all along), but I've lost a wheel nut now.

 

Hopeless, hopeless.

 

Way out of my depth and drowning as usual.

 

Just run out of time.

If the nut stays lost - just super glue the wheel to the axle - it is brittle so should be removable.  Sticky axles just need cleaning out - a triangular needle file turned in the axle hole should soon do the trick, 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

If the nut stays lost - just super glue the wheel to the axle - it is brittle so should be removable.  Sticky axles just need cleaning out - a triangular needle file turned in the axle hole should soon do the trick, 

Alternatively something like a cotton bud with most of the cotton removed and soaked in thinners will probably clean up the paint - no need to worry about loss around the axle hole as the wheel is in front.  

As a last resort run without coupling rods as long as the wheels go round,

capt'n bodge

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

When is your deadline? I have some spare bullhead rail and a pillar drill, I could quickly Knock up some coupling rods for you using the card ones as a pattern. I don't know if the rail would be thin enough to fit between the slidebars though...

When is your deadline? I have some spare bullhead rail and a pillar drill, I could quickly Knock up some coupling rods for you using the card ones as a pattern. I don't know if the rail would be thin enough to fit between the slidebars though...

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you for the suggestions - Sem, Albyn, Linny. 

 

I don't really have anything to drill rail with.  In any case, not time left now. 

 

Well, I now know what superglue does for thin bits of card.  It makes them brittle!   Rods snapped.

 

For some reason the motor bogie is becoming increasingly unhappy.  The locomotive wheels are binding on certain sections of the track.  Perhaps they do not have sufficient side-play for the very tight curves?  Still, what would I know. 

 

It's all my fault.  I completely underestimated what I supposed would be a relatively easy part, constructing a rolling chassis.

 

I knew the motion would be tricky.  It has proved to be beyond me.

 

Normally I would be more sanguine, but time's up; and I've failed.

 

Worse, the layout itself is far from finished and the only reason I have any stock at all is because Cornamuse very kindly gave us 3 wagons.  To think, I imagined I'd be building some myself. 

 

Moreover, I don't know where this failure leaves me.  I have to face the fact that many things that I assumed I'd be able to do are likely also beyond me.

Edited by Edwardian
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...