Peco 3rd rail

[Pilgrims Way]

Almost ready to add Peco 3rd rail to my SR layout and need a buy a drill for to make the holes for the 3rd rail chairs.

 

Can anyone recommend a good drill to purchase?

 

Any other hints or tips on laying 3rd rail appreciated.

[bigherb]

I use a micro chuck in my electric screwdriver which is nice and slow for that sort of jobbie.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Drill-mini-micro-chuck-0-1mm-capacity-hobby-craft-shank-1-4-hex-drive-shaft/261371326726?hash=item3cdaf1f106:g:ttEAAOSwiLdWAAZL

[Steamport Southport]

There's quite a few bits of information on the SEMG website including this page.

 

http://www.semgonline.com/model/howtotip-2.html#p3rdrail

 

Also info on third rail here.

 

http://www.clag.org.uk/3rd-4th.html

 

 

 

Jason

[crompton 33]

Hi Pilgrims way.  Some info on here for you . http://www.semgonline.com/model/howtotip-2.html#p3rdrail  All the best Alf     As above to slow again. You will brake half the pots when you try to fit the rail to them. How do i know  UM  Think is was around 200 of them.  You can see what the peco pot's look like at Dittons station.  IMGP0402 by ALF WESTLEY, on Flickr

Edited March 29, 2018 by crompton 33

[Right Away]

Hi PW, hope this might be useful.

For my 1950-60s railway I drilled the sleepers using a small electric drill.

I made a small jig out of Plasticard with notches to hold against both running rails with an outside notch for the drill bit, thus ensuring the insulator holes are equidistant in every sleeper.

The rail was painted BEFORE fixing.

When dry, the insulators were slid roughy into position on the rail and the assembly then fixed to the pre drilled sleepers with Superglue.

When securely fixed, the rail paint was touched up where required.

 

NOTES:

*Rail ends require gentle run on/off ramps for prototype collector shoes.

*Pointwork requires special attention to prevent prototype collector shoes from striking the conductor rail side; ramps on the conductor rail side were used in practice in slow speed areas, gaps where speed was higher. (I believe modern practice utilises gaps only but I stand to be corrected on this.)

*Run an EMU over pointwork to check clearances between model collector shoes and the rail at these locations.

*Feeder cables and protection boards will give a convincing appearance.

 

Please see a couple of attached pics for the general idea.

[Judge Dread]

The third rail rests upon the "pots" and it not joined to them except in one or two places to allow the rail to expand. The "Southern Railway Group" did have made cast ones but these are long gone. I purchased the last 500 of them and I have about 5 left of them. Peco ones are fine but paint the ears which slide along the rail to hold them in place, so as them cannot be seen.

The fact the rails are not fastened down is the reason for the rails to be installed in short lengths so as a faulty pick up shoe will not peal off long distances. The rail ends are still mostly painted white and bending down the rail ends should not allow them to touch down into the ballast. It causes earth faults in wet weather!

If you want to connect rail sections "electrically" use lengths of multi-core solder, painted and installed so as it will not short the running rails.  

You have to glue these rails into place as "You cannot solder, solder!" 

[Robin Verth]

Hi

This is probably a bit late the newer Peco code 75 flatbottom rail has pilot holes every 4th sleeper on the underside I thought it was for the SR conductor rail chairs the holes would need to be drilled before track laying comenced,

 

 

Edited March 29, 2018 by Robin Verth

[knitpick]

I've used a double ended Expo hand drill.  This has 4 different size 4-jaw chucks which you access by undoing the relevant collet and turning the chuck over.  That along with a box of assorted Expo drill bits.  I find that power drills can wander if you're not careful - especially if they are single speed!

[Mike Storey]

Hi PW, hope this might be useful.

For my 1950-60s railway I drilled the sleepers using a small electric drill.

I made a small jig out of Plasticard with notches to hold against both running rails with an outside notch for the drill bit, thus ensuring the insulator holes are equidistant in every sleeper.

The rail was painted BEFORE fixing.

When dry, the insulators were slid roughy into position on the rail and the assembly then fixed to the pre drilled sleepers with Superglue.

When securely fixed, the rail paint was touched up where required.

 

NOTES:

*Rail ends require gentle run on/off ramps for prototype collector shoes.

*Pointwork requires special attention to prevent prototype collector shoes from striking the conductor rail side; ramps on the conductor rail side were used in practice in slow speed areas, gaps where speed was higher. (I believe modern practice utilises gaps only but I stand to be corrected on this.)

*Run an EMU over pointwork to check clearances between model collector shoes and the rail at these locations.

*Feeder cables and protection boards will give a convincing appearance.

 

Please see a couple of attached pics for the general idea.

 

That looks superb, thanks.

 

Can you remember what superglue you used to fix the pots? Many of us have been struggling to find anything that works.

[Right Away]

Hi Mike

I generally use the "gel" type Superglue (see photo); it doesn't run all over the shop and is not quite so fast acting as the liquid products, giving just a little time for any adjustment. However, once it starts to "grab",

any movement can weaken the joint.

[Mike Storey]

Hi Mike

I generally use the "gel" type Superglue (see photo); it doesn't run all over the shop and is not quite so fast acting as the liquid products, giving just a little time for any adjustment. However, once it starts to "grab",

any movement can weaken the joint.

 

Many thanks. I have never used that, so I will go and find some. Anything to stop the little bu88ers from popping back out of their holes yet again!