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Darius43
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Started with these:-

 

7FF80603-9619-42DE-BE39-E962DB675631.jpeg.c0b600a87c1e36764999a4cbb1b3a990.jpeg

 

Single and double tunnel portals combined.

 

4F512F38-DDF5-4EBA-A411-F5C1E23B99BE.jpeg.4c484f47d407aaf99ab47978478dec8b.jpeg

 

0535C83B-B5E5-4144-817B-8C8A64683188.jpeg.fba97a42bb6c9f468d3a56fb2feda326.jpeg

 

F471FAEA-D1D0-41B3-94A6-4BD632BC87F7.jpeg.701bd05d150afe3062881816294d5e6c.jpeg

 

884208DA-0254-4349-94C8-0953268E725F.jpeg.870eb384be01202313c2715e870ae08f.jpeg

 

7C64FD92-40EB-4BE2-A3E8-9CC3176F4822.jpeg.83adb85bf44b3e9f044c83d5fd6d7fc8.jpeg

 

These were cheap portals sourced on eBay and made from some flexible pvc/polyethylene material that was impervious to plastic magic, cyano and butanone (MEK).  5 minute epoxy worked though.

 

I used offcuts from the “removed” wing wall to make the wall joining the two portals.  The whole was sprayed with grey primer and then a dilute wash of track colour and black.

 

Cheers

 

Darius

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More ballasting today - the lift-out section to the helix.  Plus some buffer stop installation.

 

24B1EC48-4A00-4D22-B8FA-4866D7521606.jpeg.777694541ab29e0a54f38e95798f8383.jpeg

 

81CD0320-B510-4D2F-9982-0E6FCD86D157.jpeg.cc1ccec4ce52d618638c8ded863cef72.jpeg

 

92BB8D2C-9F19-4CEA-93E7-D7B66C0E7550.jpeg.752148c0faabce9f31c4b06ca0c4a818.jpeg

 

916EBF30-A1F1-465D-A2AD-F2A9CC659594.jpeg.82fa48e1dcd92ab75af255ef7c70a432.jpeg

 

8290C4B9-693C-490B-86EF-BD06779C5B56.jpeg.889c011546c6812c7dc9b88d076dd4c7.jpeg

 

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CC8EB61A-1AA0-4337-9DEC-6772C4C33EE0.jpeg.e206ff40eedcf8faa0f9d0eaeeef2a53.jpeg
 

The buffer stops need to be weathered to tone down their “redness” and the track needs to be dirtied up a lot.

 

Cheers

 

Darius

 

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5 hours ago, Darius43 said:

 

8290C4B9-693C-490B-86EF-BD06779C5B56.jpeg.889c011546c6812c7dc9b88d076dd4c7.jpeg

Darius,

 

Those Rawie bufferstops look mighty and, with the retarders behind the bufferstop itself, are designed to bring a complete train to a safe halt from ~25kph. Therefore, they are somewhat 'overkill' for overrun tracks behind a maintenance shed. Typically you'd find simple fixed buffers in such locations, or the same Rawie bufferstop without the additional retarders. I'm sure you could find better (more prototypical) location(s) for them elsewhere in your layout.

 

Ian

 

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Hi Ian.  You are right of course.   Our logic is that the main line curves into the space beyond the buffers and so only a few retarders are fitted - not the full set - since (as you point out) these are depot overrun tracks so unlikely to have a high velocity buffer strike.

 

The other side of the shed will contain, on the upper level, a steam era MPD and a through station so these types of buffer stops would not be appropriate there.  This is the only feasible location option and we wanted to use these buffer stops so here we are.


Cheers

 

Darius

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3 hours ago, Darius43 said:

Hardstanding laid for the diesel refuelling point.

Darius,

 

Interesting that you ballasted the tracks, then installed the hardstanding. I'd have done it the other way round so that I could use the hardstanding to 'edge up to' with the ballast. Do you plan to infill the little 'gap' between the ballast and the hardstanding?

 

Ian

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8 minutes ago, ISW said:

Darius,

 

Interesting that you ballasted the tracks, then installed the hardstanding. I'd have done it the other way round so that I could use the hardstanding to 'edge up to' with the ballast. Do you plan to infill the little 'gap' between the ballast and the hardstanding?

 

Ian


Hi Ian.  Yes we do but first we have sealed the 2mm card hardstanding with some diluted pva.  Once that has dried and the hard stand painted, the gaps will be ballasted.

 

Plus the track and ballast will have the oily gunk treatment - once we figure out how…

 

Cheers

 

Darius

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1 hour ago, Darius43 said:


Hi Ian.  Yes we do but first we have sealed the 2mm card hardstanding with some diluted pva.  Once that has dried and the hard stand painted, the gaps will be ballasted.

 

Plus the track and ballast will have the oily gunk treatment - once we figure out how…

 

Cheers

 

Darius

Darius,

 

If you want to be able to remove the hardstanding, just wrap it in cling-film while you ballast adjacent to it. That'll let you lift out the hardstanding, and then you can gently peel off the cling flim. It works rather well I found.

 

Oily gunk? That's gloss enamel isn't it, thinned?

 

Ian

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1 minute ago, ISW said:

Darius,

 

If you want to be able to remove the hardstanding, just wrap it in cling-film while you ballast adjacent to it. That'll let you lift out the hardstanding, and then you can gently peel off the cling flim. It works rather well I found.

 

Oily gunk? That's gloss enamel isn't it, thinned?

 

Ian


No requirement to remove it - it’s stuck down in any case.
 

Cheers

 

Darius

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Refuelling point canopy under construction using Plastruct I section and 1mm/0.5mm plasticard sheet.

 

32582F12-5DF3-4386-B6DE-9FAA68606956.jpeg.162df10a8772c5e1d543d12aaa172c1f.jpeg

 

FFD3806A-419D-4BD4-8885-2EBC906FED02.jpeg.5ea5c7976d8ec16a703e2daedd5efc76.jpeg

 

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FB8E7740-8D81-4986-91C2-0359ABEB5E66.jpeg.3222b18b96cbc2aef75b44496ac5f728.jpeg

 

1F71E8F2-3B83-4091-965D-E28C77B3FB50.jpeg.aa1889efc6ec8d41ad25c18d29d715ef.jpeg

 

Now waiting for channel section purlins and corrugated metal sheeting to arrive.

 

Cheers

 

Darius

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Canopy completed with channel section purlins and corrugated metal panels.

 

9FDEE0A6-BDD7-4901-88BB-22B21CF292E4.jpeg.205ad7e842d3548b07eaf79ff8d3f3eb.jpeg

 

B9F73EBF-F7C6-4180-A31F-849B9DBBD881.jpeg.35b70602bf6a45cc34c3a98413a3485c.jpeg

 

02C550DD-E790-4F49-99B8-C1ADAD1865A1.jpeg.71f578af32cba890c4911e37d4b852cd.jpeg

 

The rainwater down pipes are from brass rod and extend down past the canopy base to act as mounting dowels.  
 

Weathering applied to remove the shininess.

 

9A71820D-87E0-4CA0-BEF9-86531D361F54.jpeg.ba3c679f0385ee663b23c681d934f7e3.jpeg

 

D81AE4AB-1B01-4CDF-BB9C-66F9E75B2574.jpeg.cd291269a98fba8b6181c1bb5b7750f7.jpeg

 

0F89396B-61CA-463F-9920-5D4EBF968D82.jpeg.450a95cd4a84fe3adfdef93f214f9ef3.jpeg

 

8C787D74-9CB3-4C64-B8F3-15140701EA04.jpeg.97f1635b8b8d88b2b15c9e24db873181.jpeg

 

299C1C34-4A3B-4D64-BF96-C986201A6B6D.jpeg.31f2b46ccb810d9c501b92a36abd14ad.jpeg

 

Cheers

 

Darius

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Details added to the refuelling point.  Installation on the layout soon.

 

2F67243B-E32F-4D6E-A518-DE153F59E5B7.jpeg.ad22b7ba81c7f950baae03fa3d19e414.jpeg

 

759693A8-3389-4063-9099-64A37C3FB7AE.jpeg.99412f6620d31815b5ca3f8fe8437777.jpeg

 

68E24C85-5BA6-41BF-BEF3-97453D8FE85E.jpeg.3effad6aaa97f4c1ba2268e5560c9c2f.jpeg

 

Refuelling equipment supplied by Mudmagnet Models - highly recommended.
 

Cheers

 

Darius

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Back in the shed…

 

CFE99BEA-6D18-4050-A694-34E9119B3F46.jpeg.ff7069e1a67ddda26bc0b1ea3bb70c21.jpeg

 

C02585E5-0162-46B3-A45C-C7395EB4C98E.jpeg.ebbb98371d6fb28c6c6b259988f6910c.jpeg

 

DA1A6718-1051-45D2-B771-C5025E89C963.jpeg.f952967b6e282a085976008d2f2d913b.jpeg

 

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6E2CB817-4562-41DA-8CE0-822FA0108A45.jpeg.df58988c1ea421fe7b304b89b209b1c3.jpeg

 

The model canopy structure is removable and the fuel pumping equipment and drums are just temporarily placed for the photos.  
 

The whole trackbed and hardstanding  area still needs the oily gunk weathered treatment.

 

Cheers

 

Darius

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Lower scenic level extension to the other side of the shed commenced.

 

06DC1F38-14BE-4357-8214-A3299C8BB552.thumb.jpeg.f0581e055b74ea90ea13204baff40f64.jpeg

 

AEA92D8D-6078-447C-B032-DC31123D28C3.thumb.jpeg.c2980da525e8382c4ba1a2b5b12b4d2e.jpeg

 

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5399ABFC-8365-4D88-9EC0-C7AFEEDC31B2.thumb.jpeg.aa31725b9c1e4e8ec6bacc71120a2dc8.jpeg

 

09AE8E00-B56F-4B62-9B2B-643F87E55176.thumb.jpeg.109f40c3196bb18de5fe98b7d91960a3.jpeg

 

Most of this section will be in “tunnel” beneath the upper scenic level so the code 75 bullhead track transitions to code 100 using Peco transition track pieces.  The code 75 bullhead rail connects ok to the “regular” Peco code 75 rail of the transition track piece using standard code 75 rail joiners.

 

4B78BEC6-32AC-4415-A1B3-74BE5C1722A3.jpeg.5137f7797d24c54f968e8de9852cb6af.jpeg

 

Cheers

 

Darius

 

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Progress this week on a scenic infill for the SW corner of the shed.

 

E6D49FA3-F3B0-4775-8BE1-7CC6F8CB9254.thumb.jpeg.6184120762cef877bc9c13a5c2f77153.jpeg

 

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0A1492A4-F721-41B9-9EDD-4570E7BBDFB7.thumb.jpeg.2e55b258bac69683509a40d6c6b7ac8c.jpeg

 

D7D96A8B-699B-4DC7-AEE4-811170D4979D.thumb.jpeg.dced18cde4e295a9ebd0268d22d577ec.jpeg

 

The polystyrene slabs were packing from some self-assembly steel cabinets that I acquired for the garage a couple of years ago.

 

The plan is to have rows of terraced houses (Scalescenes) with a slight gradient up to the right-angled corner.

 

Cheers

 

Darius

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15 hours ago, Darius43 said:

The polystyrene slabs were packing from some self-assembly steel cabinets that I acquired for the garage a couple of years ago.

Darius,

 

I've also have a 'stash' of similar polystyrene sheets that was packing in my garage for my future scenics. What did you use to glue the sheets together and are there any special 'tricks' to a successful glue-up?

 

Ian

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Hi Ian,

 

I used pva spread over both surfaces with a plasticard trowel.  The slabs were weighted down and left to cure for 24 hrs.

 

Tip: don’t leave them in hot sunlight while curing.  BR sandwich results.

 

I have read that if you sandwich a sheet of paper in the glued joint you get a stronger bond.

 

Cheers

 

Darius

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First of about twelve terraced house pairs under construction.

 

547379AA-BF05-472D-91B5-977309B0B7EA.thumb.jpeg.8d2b478e0afdaf28ba9ed056343909c2.jpeg

 

BF747E92-E925-4AA9-B868-3B1CCF6EC8B1.thumb.jpeg.fdfb01b6fd7cbf8e30b4a9d67089c158.jpeg

 

FF3C7721-174A-438D-9B86-F21640CF17DB.thumb.jpeg.913509235e99df1e393da92e4c30c8bf.jpeg

 

65BD4A6E-C933-45C7-90B2-FF1071BAE7DC.thumb.jpeg.a127a9253db06a3ec707dd50fe369ad1.jpeg

 

Built from the Scalescenes download, print and glue onto cardboard kit.

 

Roofing tomorrow.

 

Cheers

 

Darius

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