pauliebanger Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 That's a pity; oh well I'll need to attack those glued tabs. The self tappers appear to be redundant after final assembly. Norman If anyone has any ideas or would like a production sample to experiment on (for this purpose only please) I can send one to you and you can report back here if or when you find a solution. Steve, No need. I've done this and sent you an email with details. Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
norman Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 If anyone has any ideas or would like a production sample to experiment on (for this purpose only please) I can send one to you and you can report back here if or when you find a solution. Steve, No need. I've done this and sent you an email with details. Paul Please post the solution so that we can all benefit from your experience. cheers Norman Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliebanger Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 Norman, You have an LLC Class 15, so you are already benefitting greatly from my experience. LOL Access to (highly detailed) LLC Cab interior. The self tapers hold the inner cab moulding to the metal footplate. These can be left in place or removed at your choice. This is what you need to do to gain access to the inside of the cab. I'm neither sanctioning it nor recommending that anyone should follow this guidance, but this is how I got in to mine. If you take due care, it can be done without breaking or damaging the model. The model is built to be robust and vibration free in use, not for easy access to the cab. Proceed at your own risk. Main thing to know is that the cab is held in place by the front and rear body mouldings, so, unfortunately, they have to come off before the cab can be released. When the body is off the chassis, take special care not to bend the steps. Begin by removing the 4 screws which hold the chassis to the body. Put the model on its wheels and lift the body clear, noting that the battery boxes remain fitted underneath the footplate/solebar. Disconnect the multi-pin connector and put the chassis aside. Remove the two deeply recessed, centrally positioned cross head screws one front, one rear which hold the body mouldings to the metal footplate. Gently work the forward body section tabs free from the soft(ish) glue, starting in mid-section being careful not to overstress the body mouldings. Gently prise the end near the cab away from the metal footplate casting and work along towards the front. If needed use a blunt flat instrument to lever the moulding gently away. When disconnected completely take care as the wiring will still be attached, repeat the process at the shorter, rear end. Be careful of the wires to the lighting PCBs at each end, they are not overly long so can easily be pulled off. Here's the good news: With both ends removed, the outer cab moulding should slide vertically off the inner cab moulding; they are not glued together. Clear access to the cab interior is available from either side. Reassembly is the reverse. The screws hold everything firmly in place both visually and for handling purposes when it's fully reassembled. But remember, the tabs are no longer glued and the mouldings are therefore not bonded to the footplate. If you have a sound fitted model, this may lead to unwanted sympathetic vibrations or buzzing. Regards Paul 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
norman Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 Norman, You have an LLC Class 15, so you are already benefitting greatly from my experience. LOL Access to (highly detailed) LLC Cab interior. The self tapers hold the inner cab moulding to the metal footplate. These can be left in place or removed at your choice. This is what you need to do to gain access to the inside of the cab. I'm neither sanctioning it nor recommending that anyone should follow this guidance, but this is how I got in to mine. If you take due care, it can be done without breaking or damaging the model. The model is built to be robust and vibration free in use, not for easy access to the cab. Proceed at your own risk. Main thing to know is that the cab is held in place by the front and rear body mouldings, so, unfortunately, they have to come off before the cab can be released. When the body is off the chassis, take special care not to bend the steps. Begin by removing the 4 screws which hold the chassis to the body. Put the model on its wheels and lift the body clear, noting that the battery boxes remain fitted underneath the footplate/solebar. Disconnect the multi-pin connector and put the chassis aside. Remove the two deeply recessed, centrally positioned cross head screws one front, one rear which hold the body mouldings to the metal footplate. Gently work the forward body section tabs free from the soft(ish) glue, starting in mid-section being careful not to overstress the body mouldings. Gently prise the end near the cab away from the metal footplate casting and work along towards the front. If needed use a blunt flat instrument to lever the moulding gently away. When disconnected completely take care as the wiring will still be attached, repeat the process at the shorter, rear end. Be careful of the wires to the lighting PCBs at each end, they are not overly long so can easily be pulled off. Here's the good news: With both ends removed, the outer cab moulding should slide vertically off the inner cab moulding; they are not glued together. Clear access to the cab interior is available from either side. Reassembly is the reverse. The screws hold everything firmly in place both visually and for handling purposes when it's fully reassembled. But remember, the tabs are no longer glued and the mouldings are therefore not bonded to the footplate. If you have a sound fitted model, this may lead to unwanted sympathetic vibrations or buzzing. Regards Paul Hi Paul Thanks for the explanation much appreciated. Congratulation - the sound project is very good and well tailored to the mode. Did you produce the factory fitted Dapol 08 project as well? Cheers Norman Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauliebanger Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 Norman, Thank you. No I had nothing to do with the Dapol 08 or the factory fitted sound. I have 2 versions (for variety) of my own ProtoDrive sound projects for the Dapol 08 which many people seem to like. Controllability is similar to the Class 15. Kind regards, Paul 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dreadnought05 Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 Just picked mine up. First impressions are it's stunning! Can't wait to run it in. Pictures to follow. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DLIBOD17 Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 Just been admiring my model and I can only echo Dreadnought's comment....what a stunning model ! In addition to an excellent representation of the prototype it also includes decals, works plates and an assortment of shed plates. A well received provision and something other manufacturers would do well to repeat. Also a sizeable donation to the owning group of the prototype Full marks to Steve and all involved in the production of the model. A Class 22, 24 or 27 next would be great. Maybe even a Co - Bo ? The full size D5705 and D8233 are currently keeping one another company at the ELR's Baron Street Works......and I'm looking forward to taking an image of my numbered up 0 gauge version sat on the running board of it's 1:1 scale namesake 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
norman Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 Just been admiring my model and I can only echo Dreadnought's comment....what a stunning model ! In addition to an excellent representation of the prototype it also includes decals, works plates and an assortment of shed plates. A well received provision and something other manufacturers would do well to repeat. Also a sizeable donation to the owning group of the prototype Full marks to Steve and all involved in the production of the model. A Class 22, 24 or 27 next would be great. Maybe even a Co - Bo ? The full size D5705 and D8233 are currently keeping one another company at the ELR's Baron Street Works......and I'm looking forward to taking an image of my numbered up 0 gauge version sat on the running board of it's 1:1 scale namesake Building on the success of the BTH type 1, BR class 15 a class 14 (Teddy Bear) would be a winner for many but I'm not against a 24 in fact that would be good too. Norman 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
south_tyne Posted February 5, 2017 Share Posted February 5, 2017 Steve, I'm really chuffed that the Class 15 has now reached these shores and that the final model more than exceeds expectations - it looks absolutely stunning!! It is a reward for your hard work, dedication and patience, you deserve it. Absolutely cannot wait for the Ruston now... look forward to the next update when you're ready David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdseyecircus Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 Considering the model has been shipped out for the best part of two weeks very few have commented on it. I have yet to number mine up. The waterslide transfers are better than the proposed rub on sort in my opinion. Liking the sound though the horn noise will grow on me! Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-UnitMad Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 Considering the model has been shipped out for the best part of two weeks very few have commented on it. They're still too busy enjoying it..?? A Class 22, 24 or 27 next would be great. Maybe even a Co - Bo ?Class 22, Class 22, Class 22... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeavyDuty Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 I'll probably hate myself for this, but despite being intensely interested in East Anglia in the very early 60s I've not ordered a 15. My concern is that I just don't have the space or money for a layout large enough to take advantage of a 15. Can anyone suggest a way I can overcome this unfortunate fear? Maybe more reviews and photos of people's models. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
leopardml2341 Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 My concern is that I just don't have the space or money for a layout large enough to take advantage of a 15. Me neither, but that didn't stop me buying one, nor a Dapol 08 or indeed a Heljan EE Type 4...... 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-UnitMad Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 (edited) Can anyone who has got his hands on one tell me if the finish is paint or coloured plastic? Likewise has anyone found a way to fit a crew inside the cab. I have bought one but am abroad till March. Bob For fitting a crew, see Post#522 on just the previous page of this Thread. Edited February 6, 2017 by F-UnitMad Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-UnitMad Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 Can anyone suggest a way I can overcome this unfortunate fear? Maybe more reviews and photos of people's models. Open your wallet and repeat after me... "Help Yourself".... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeavyDuty Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 Open your wallet and repeat after me... "Help Yourself".... I already sent a message to The Nth Degree with a question... I fear all hope is lost. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdseyecircus Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 Can anyone suggest a way I can overcome this unfortunate fear? Maybe more reviews and photos of people's models. There you go.. Paul 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeavyDuty Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 There you go.. Paul 162017195337.jpg 162017195349.jpg #nothelpingatall Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeavyDuty Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 (edited) Question: how do the headcode discs operate - are they held in position by friction or are they latching in some way? What are they constructed from - if plastic, do they seem like they can be changed frequently without issue? (The fact that I'm even thinking about such things does not bode well for my wallet.) (Edit) The Little Loco website answered this - they are described as being metal. Edited February 7, 2017 by HeavyDuty Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
leopardml2341 Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 (edited) Has anyone applied the waterslide transfers yet? The instructions make reference to removing the pink carrier film after applying the transfer, but not how to. Also there's some yellow printing which looks to be register marks or similar, but a lot of this seems to have (in)conveniently attached itself to the inner of the box lid. Hope it's not important? Edited February 7, 2017 by leopardml2341 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Nth Degree Posted February 7, 2017 Author Share Posted February 7, 2017 Hello Andy, it seems like ages since I've had the time to pop in here. The transfers/decals have been a problem for some – not least of all me! I spent ages designing these and making sure every detail was covered and easy to read and decipher, and easy to apply too. The factory, on the other hand, decided they knew what was best for me and chose to redesign them and print the important instructions in pale yellow over pink – almost impossible to read and all to easy to rub off or get stuck to other things! I'm pretty sure I've posted this before, but for the benefit of those new to the thread, this is what they were meant to look like, and how easy they were meant to be read: Decal Sheet.pdf Please download it and use it for reference for applying your decals. For best results, make sure the surface is totally clean and leave the decals to soak for at least 60 seconds. Apply decals in position and make sure you gently squeeze out all of the water underneath the decal. Put aside and leave to dry for at least 10 hours. A couple customers have left theirs to dry for 24 hours with a successful result. Gently rub away the pink substrate (it's a bit like dried PVA glue) and you should have a perfect decal. The key part of successful application is squeezing out the water, or when they dry they will not be attached to the model and will rub off with the pink substrate. I'm still toying with the idea of getting the decals produced again, but over here and how I wanted them. If you haven't applied yours yet, give me a couple weeks to get over the rush and I will do some sums on the calculator. I'll be frank and honest with you all; I don't like them. They don't even appear to be the correct colours I chose. Steve 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
norman Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 Hi Steve I had planned to spend today applying the decals but having just read your post I am not starting. The worst part is the colours. If these are not right then I don't want to spend time applying them knowing that they will be "wrong" So I applaud your honesty and frankness but please lets get it right. Norman Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kkwup Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 Hi Steve, thank you for the update. I can second Norman, your honestly and frankly way how you communicate every relevant aspect of your project is commendable. I know you’ve been working very hard to get the best result, so hopefully everyone appreciates all the passion and energy you spent on this project. I do!!! Someone asked for more pictures of the model, so here are some more plus a short video including a sound sample. I can assure, that this little loco deserves full marks. To everyone who is still waiting, there is absolutely no reason to hesitate. Simply enjoy! Greetings from Germany (and apologies for my poor English) Klaus 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeavyDuty Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 Noisy plain green 15 ordered! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
leopardml2341 Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 Noisy plain green 15 ordered! On RMWeb, resistance is futile - don't ever ask people to discourage you from doing something that you know you really want to do - it always ends in tears, or at the very least a depleted wallet! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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