hayfield Posted August 21, 2018 Share Posted August 21, 2018 I think most of us have been brought up expecting things to just fit together, Airfix kits and alike come to mind. Certainly with the chassis a certain amount of fettling is required. The chassis itself has to be square, then the bearings must not only be parallel with each other but be in like with both sets of coupling rods, unless the chassis will roll slowley both ways under its own steam without any signs of binding even the best meshed motor and gears will fail. Experience has taught me to get both working perfectly before marrying both together As you have found, the next issue is pickups as you have found. The ballance being strong enough to keep in contact with the wheels, but light enough not to affect the performance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
railroadbill Posted August 21, 2018 Share Posted August 21, 2018 (edited) Here's one I made earlier.Considerably earlier, in fact. It's a good choice for a kit build as it's 0-6-0 without any external valve gear, tender for extra pick ups and a loco with lots of straight lines, ie parallel boiler, straight sided fire box etc. About a year ago I dug this out to refurbish, to get an "oldie" going again. I've repainted it and also fitted flanged driving wheels on the central axle. When I originally built this, flangeless middle drivers were in vogue for tight curves... The pick ups are phosphor bronze strips on the backs of the insulated wheels. This is the original white metal chassis, fitted with an X-03 motor! Runs ok, has top hat brass bearings fitted. The current SE Finecast etched brass chassis looks like it should give a much more detailed looking result though. My loco was glued together with araldite which has certainly passed the test of time. Keep on with yours, and you should end up with a loco that will last for many years service. 44559 was an SDJR loco, built for that railway and which spent its whole life on the line until withdrawal in 1964. Edited August 21, 2018 by railroadbill 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted August 22, 2018 Share Posted August 22, 2018 Great job in both the build and refurbishment, as you say these lovely kits are often overlooked and come up regularly on everyone's favorite auction site You could always look for an Airfix/MRRC 005 5 pole replacement motor, which is a direct drop in replacement There are two versions of the etched chassis, the early one without the brake gear of the new version with all the bells and whistles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted August 22, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 22, 2018 Well, I made a little progress last night. I unscrewed the gear on the drive wheel axle and push tested the chassis to see if it was still binding. It lessened it quite a bit so will take another look at the gearbox to ensure all is square. I also noticed that the Romford wheels werent sitting sqaure on the axle which is also contributing to the issue. I soldered some of the body up last night. The soldering isnt as neat as I would have liked, and perhaps for some of the parts, Epoxy would have produced a neater result. Something to bear in mind for future projects. An hour cleaning up the solder should improve things though. The main thing is that the motor sits perfectly into the firebox with room for a small decoder and stay-alive. Here are the pics so far - frames are yet to be soldered up, and the connecting rods need to be laminated before moving on further. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted August 22, 2018 Share Posted August 22, 2018 Ian Looking good, I would say dissingage the motor and gearbox and check the chassis is very free running first. As for soldering, it's all about practice and in my opinion soldering is much better than glueing. Must say looks very prommissing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted August 22, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 22, 2018 Thanks John - The solder kept beading instead of flowing regardless of the amount Carrs Green Flux I used, but I think I can clean it up with a sharpened file. it could be the heat was wrong on the hot air iron, but I also sturggled with the normal iron at 180 degrees to get it to flow properly. Will have a chance over the weekend to get the chassis running smooth. I made the mistake with the 1P not perservering with getting the chassis spot on and wont make that mistake again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted August 22, 2018 Share Posted August 22, 2018 Ian I use an Antex 25 watt iron, red Carrs flux and 80 degree solder, I do put the solder on top the join (not tip of Iron) and go in very quickly not to affect the castings, if unsuccessful the first time or unhappy with the joint I brush flux on again and use the iron for a tad longer. At worst put the joint into steam and the joint will come apart and after cleaning the parts start again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted August 22, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 22, 2018 Cheers John - mine is temp controlled from 100-450 degrees. I might try it a tad warmer and see what happens. I have flux from London Road Models so might try that instead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted August 22, 2018 Share Posted August 22, 2018 What motor / gearbox are you using? In two of your pictures the body appears to be sitting too far forward. The wheels are not centrally located in the splashers. Gordon A Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted August 22, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 22, 2018 High Gordon - the motor is a Canon 1620 with a Comet 50:1 two-stage gearbox. The body was just placed onto the chassis for the photo, and probably not lined up properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted August 23, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 23, 2018 Have you tried using fluxite as a flux? Seems to work for me - just make sure you thoroughly clean the soldered joint up once you have soldered it. Baz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
37Oban Posted August 24, 2018 Share Posted August 24, 2018 Thanks John - The solder kept beading instead of flowing regardless of the amount Carrs Green Flux I used, but I think I can clean it up with a sharpened file. it could be the heat was wrong on the hot air iron, but I also sturggled with the normal iron at 180 degrees to get it to flow properly. Will have a chance over the weekend to get the chassis running smooth. I made the mistake with the 1P not perservering with getting the chassis spot on and wont make that mistake again. Hi, the only times I've had solder bead is if one, or both, of the parts haven't been cleaned adequately. A tiny spot of grease or oil can cause it. The best thing to do is separate the parts, clean them then try soldering again. Oil or grease would prevent any adhesive working properly too. Roja Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted August 24, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 24, 2018 I agree its probably down to dirty parts so will give it all a good scrub later and see if that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted September 3, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted September 3, 2018 Latest update after a busy week. Completed the body and give first coat of etched primer. Not quite as tidy as i had hoped but not too bad. Ross pop valved a d whistle is on route as well as inulated wheels so cant complete yet. Another primer coat will go on this afternoon and finish with satin black. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted September 5, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted September 5, 2018 The body received more paint yesterday. I recently acquired some aerosols called Hycote Double Acrylic from a local auto parts shop. They had a primer which was for bare metal, and top coats with a large variety of colours. The one used on the body is their Satin Black. Its high build and comes out at a high rate of knots so you have to be careful you dont overload the model with a thick layer of paint. I have also put most of the tender together, with just detailing parts left to add (handrails, buffers etc). A little fettling required to get the parts to fit perfectly but was relatively simple to put together. Insulated wheels are on the way from Markits/Romford so will be able to finish putting the chassis together. Whistle and Ross Pop valves have arrived along with smokebox door number from 247 Developments. Intention is to have the model completed by the end of the weekend, but time in the train room is completely down to the generosity of SWMBO! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted September 10, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted September 10, 2018 (edited) Bit more time spent and a little more progress on the 4F this weekend. Fitted pick-ups, DCC chip, programmed and test ran it. So far, so good!. Finished painting including the buffer beams and tender, and fitted a few detail parts. I added in the beading on the tender sides to reflect the actual tender type pulled behind 3916. Limited info on the rear of the tender, so followe dthe drawing in the LMS Locomotive Profile book (No 10). very useful for prototype pictures and info on the various types. Next on the list are couplings, pick-up's on the tender, vac hoses, decals, weathering and a coat of matt varnish before filling the windows in with Krystal Klear. One thing I noted was that the location of the safety valves (Ross Pops) were too close to the cab. Looking at photo's, the valves would be slightly further forward and the whistle behind them, to one side. The pre-drilled hole in the firebox is obviosuly slightly out. Too late for me to rectify it now, and its no too noticeable, so will leave it be. Etched plates came from Fox and 247 Developments. Ross Pop and Whistle are from Markits. Decoder is the wired Zen 8H with stay-alive. Ian Edited September 10, 2018 by ianLMS 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham456 Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 (edited) Lovely job mate looks very nice,and you have the knowlage that no Mazark rot. axel muff bush failure, inability to get spairs six months after production stopped problems will affect you and your 4F Another reason to keep building them Old kits even if a rtr version comes out How many Hatton garrets are still going compared to the Old K's kit.....so long as it wasn't built with a HPM2 ! That is PS not currently in seven Ash but swanning around in Mauritius but still getting my daily RMweb fix Edited September 10, 2018 by Graham456 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted September 10, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted September 10, 2018 Cheers Graham - not really jealous of you swanning around in Mauritius!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham456 Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 Cheers Graham - not really jealous of you swanning around in Mauritius!!!! Your not jealous .....RIGHT ! Still if it softens the blow their are no railways over here all closed down in 1964 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted September 10, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted September 10, 2018 It helps..not much mind!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PenrithBeacon Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 I like that lots! A few years ago I bought a non-runner of eBay, it needs a new chassis and a firebox backhead casting. I might just wind myself up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted September 10, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted September 10, 2018 I have a couple of Airfix versions which could do with new chassis and motor mounted in the loco instead of the tender. Appparently Comet do a very good chassis for this type of thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted September 11, 2018 Share Posted September 11, 2018 I like that lots! A few years ago I bought a non-runner of eBay, it needs a new chassis and a firebox backhead casting. I might just wind myself up! David The older Wills kits from memory were designed to use the Triang Jinty chassis. Southeastern Finecast sell a direct replacement chassis (its either the FC 201 or 202) with full brake gear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PenrithBeacon Posted September 11, 2018 Share Posted September 11, 2018 David The older Wills kits from memory were designed to use the Triang Jinty chassis. Southeastern Finecast sell a direct replacement chassis (its either the FC 201 or 202) with full brake gear The one I have doesn't have a Triang chassis, just two substantial lumps of plate brass and tubular spacers, I'll go with the current SEF chassis and motor mount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted September 12, 2018 Share Posted September 12, 2018 David The Southeastern Finecast 4 F is one of their revised kits and uses its own chassis FC159. The older Wills kit was designed to fit the Jinty chassis, Southeastern Finecast do a revised chassis for thei F.C. 202 ( for a tender loco)/ Might be worth speaking with Dave Ellis at SEF as to your best option, I think the splashes on the Wills kit are part of the footplate casting, worth checking to see FC159 fits Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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