JeffP Posted July 23, 2018 Author Share Posted July 23, 2018 (edited) No, I haven't given up! Build has stopped while I source some brass angle to help with the tender to rear and tender to front joins. Meanwhile, there are two hollow hexagonal shapes to form up and fit to the inside of the floor. All well and good, but the instructions tell me to have a screw captive in each. Do we think it means a nut? There are no hex headed screws in the kit. Might make a start on the tender chassis instead. Edited July 23, 2018 by JeffP Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted July 23, 2018 Share Posted July 23, 2018 There's no need to add angle to the joints. It's more likely to end in a mess. You either need to hold it all together while soldering, or clean up and add after making the joint, with the likely hood that it will all come apart when adding. But joints that fit well and are clean are more than ample. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted July 23, 2018 Author Share Posted July 23, 2018 No tags, VERY difficult to hold....... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted July 23, 2018 Share Posted July 23, 2018 No tags, VERY difficult to hold....... Cant quite visualize the probblem but the answer may be jigs and clamps. A 9x6" of 12mm ply with a 4" strip glued at a true 90°. Provides the third hand. A couple of sub miniature G clamps or pegs plus a selection of lolly stick and coffee stirrers for packing and drawing pins to secure. Cleanliness is godliness in the land of solder. Fast soldering is usually neater. If you need to check, try a tiny tack with electricians solder, then, if happy, run a seam of 145°. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicktoix Posted July 23, 2018 Share Posted July 23, 2018 No, I haven't given up! Build has stopped while I source some brass angle to help with the tender to rear and tender to front joins. Meanwhile, there are two hollow hexagonal shapes to form up and fit to the inside of the floor. All well and good, but the instructions tell me to have a screw captive in each. Do we think it means a nut? There are no hex headed screws in the kit. Might make a start on the tender chassis instead. In the original kit there were hex headed bolts. I just soldered a 6ba screw in place. They hold the "wheel assemblies" in place. There is not a typical chassis and the brakes fit to the inside of the outer frames which is a bit tricky. Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted July 23, 2018 Share Posted July 23, 2018 Bits of angle won't make it any easier. Yes a simple double right angle jig does help a bit but I find a vee block and small square more than ample. As for tags the majority of kits don't have them apart from lining up on the footplate. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted July 23, 2018 Author Share Posted July 23, 2018 Thanks for the replies. I got out the bearings for the wheels, and duly found two hex headed screws! But the bearings were bored 4mm, so I've had each in the lathe, drilled out to 4.5mm and reamed to 4.8mm. I wonder if the bearings were made to suit AGH wheels? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted July 23, 2018 Share Posted July 23, 2018 As you have rebored the holes. Did you mark so they are all used the same way, or it may mess up your coupling rod alignment. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicktoix Posted July 23, 2018 Share Posted July 23, 2018 Thanks for the replies. I got out the bearings for the wheels, and duly found two hex headed screws! But the bearings were bored 4mm, so I've had each in the lathe, drilled out to 4.5mm and reamed to 4.8mm. I wonder if the bearings were made to suit AGH wheels? Yes Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted July 24, 2018 Author Share Posted July 24, 2018 Peter, they are the tender bearings. They sit in a pair of sub frames, with one pair fixed and the other two compensated by means of a pair of beams. All will be soldered in place with a suitable rod through each pair to keep them aligned. If I find the same problem with the driving wheel bearings, I'll have to look again. I'm pretty sure the front bogie bearings will need reboring too. Not sure about the trailing truck. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicktoix Posted July 24, 2018 Share Posted July 24, 2018 Just looking at your wheels the set for the trailing truck should be outside bearing ones, I.e. Finney type. You seem to have all inside bearings. I can't see the need for anything to hold the tender wheels in line the construction will do that. Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted July 24, 2018 Author Share Posted July 24, 2018 Yes, Nick, you are right. I need to ask Slaters if they will swap what I have...but I bought through DJH. Progress so far. Very little, I'm afraid. This is what holds the fixed (ie not compensated) set of tender wheels. The eagle eyed will spot a bit of brass angle holding one side on. It snapped off as I was trying to get the steel rod used to align the bearings out of the bearing it managed to get soldered into. Sigh. My problems now revolve around my soldering iron. If anyone could advise, please see my question in "Modelling questions, hints and tips". Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted July 24, 2018 Author Share Posted July 24, 2018 Next problem: Slaters don't do a 3' 3" BR/Stanier pattern wheel for outside bearings. Nearest match is 3' 2" LNER pattern. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted July 24, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 24, 2018 Might be easier to modify the rear pony and scratch a simple set of inside frames. Not knowing how it all fits together of course as standard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicktoix Posted July 24, 2018 Share Posted July 24, 2018 Next problem: Slaters don't do a 3' 3" BR/Stanier pattern wheel for outside bearings. Nearest match is 3' 2" LNER pattern. That's what I used. They just drop into the axleboxes and you can't see the slight difference.Otherwise you'll need to make an inside frame for the truck. Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted July 24, 2018 Author Share Posted July 24, 2018 I'll look at that problem when I get to it. If I use the outside bearing ones, can the wheelset be removed? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicktoix Posted July 24, 2018 Share Posted July 24, 2018 I'll look at that problem when I get to it. If I use the outside bearing ones, can the wheelset be removed?Only by dropping the axleboxes but if you make the keeps removable by using screws it's easy enoughNick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted July 24, 2018 Author Share Posted July 24, 2018 Thx Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Western Star Posted July 24, 2018 Share Posted July 24, 2018 Next problem: Slaters don't do a 3' 3" BR/Stanier pattern wheel for outside bearings. Nearest match is 3' 2" LNER pattern. Explain your need to David White. Ask him if the axle that you have can be fitted with the axle extenders... these are "journals" which screw into the end of a standard axle, tightened with an Allen key which fits into the journal end of the axle extension. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted July 27, 2018 Author Share Posted July 27, 2018 (edited) Shown below is version 2 of the compensated wheelbase for the tender. Version 1 ended up soldered solid A bit more care and a smaller iron was used on this version, an Antex 25W, with areas in which I wanted solder, pre-tinned and those I didn't treated with Carrs solder mask. The bearings are soldered so that an axle runs true in them. Incidentally, what is supposed to be the consistency of the above? Mine is like shoe polish. But it is a bit old. Edited July 27, 2018 by JeffP 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted July 27, 2018 Author Share Posted July 27, 2018 Explain your need to David White. Ask him if the axle that you have can be fitted with the axle extenders... these are "journals" which screw into the end of a standard axle, tightened with an Allen key which fits into the journal end of the axle extension. Sorted: two screw in journals, an allen key to suit and a pair of bearings ordered. Thanks to David White at Slaters. Not only knowledgeable but a nice guy. While I had him on the phone I requested that Slaters produce the correct wheels for the Judith Edge Ruston DE165 PWM650, now resident at Rowsley, which David promised to look into. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted July 27, 2018 Share Posted July 27, 2018 The solder mask is just like black shoe polish. You can also blacken the parts you don't want soldered, as this also helps. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted July 27, 2018 Author Share Posted July 27, 2018 Tender wheel blackening tomorrow, with gun blue. Question: does one blacken the axles? I assume yes or they rust? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Pulham Posted July 27, 2018 Share Posted July 27, 2018 Tender wheel blackening tomorrow, with gun blue. Question: does one blacken the axles? I assume yes or they rust? I would. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Focalplane Posted July 31, 2018 Share Posted July 31, 2018 Jeff I just came across this thread and will follow with interest. I am so sorry to hear of your family problems, I was in much the same situation four years ago when my wife was seriously ill. Happily all is now well. Thank you for the "heads up" on Severn Mill. I have two sets to order but have been putting it off. They really are superb etches. Best wishes Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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