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Mechanical Turnout Operation (no electrickery!)


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Gents and ladies

 

As a former mechanical fitter (albeit electrically trained) I have an aversion to using electrics for point operation.

I'm ok with electrics, but not with electronics.

The prototype of layout I'm building was almost all hand points anyway so I like to think that by avoiding the witchcraft that is electronics, I'm adhering to original principles.

Does any manufacturer offer a purely mechanical method for route setting, if so I'd be very pleased to hear about it.

 

Thanks in advance

 

E3109

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I too thought of wire-in-tube with SPDT slide switches, but then I wondered if the OP meant, by route setting, the simultaneous operation of multiple turnouts in particular combinations to set a complete route through a section of layout. If so, doing it mechanically would probably be theoretically possible but, I suspect, far more complex than doing the same thing electrically. I can see how you could do it for a single route, but the trick would be where one turnout might need to be operated as part of several different routes. I'm not sure how you'd decouple the linkage for one route from that of another, if you see what I mean.

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Poke it with your finger works OK.

 

A stiff bit of wire under the baseboard is another method I have used. On one layout I had micro switches which the wire bashed to change the point polarity. Another one I had toggle switches not connected to switch the frog. This did mean operators had to do two actions. And I have done like Mike has and that is use the switch not only to push/pull the wire and point but to switch the polarity.

 

I still think insulfrog and finger poking is the simplest. Works OK on Pig Lane (WR).

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...I wondered if the OP meant, by route setting, the simultaneous operation of multiple turnouts in particular combinations to set a complete route through a section of layout...

That's how I read it too.

 

...If so, doing it mechanically would probably be theoretically possible but, I suspect, far more complex than doing the same thing electrically. I can see how you could do it for a single route, but the trick would be where one turnout might need to be operated as part of several different routes. I'm not sure how you'd decouple the linkage for one route from that of another, if you see what I mean.

 No need to reinvent the wheel, full mechanical interlocking was devised for the mechanically operated points on the real railway.

 

Use in combination with a Jacquard style mechanical programme to simulate the signalman moving the point levers to set a route, the interlocking will take care of potential conflict. The drives to each point lever would need to be sprung so that no damage occurs when there is an attempt to move a point lever that is locked.

 

It's fully possible in concept, proven technique was developed well before we started pushing electrons around to this purpose: but would need a meticulous mechanic to build and maintain it.

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Gents and ladies

 

As a former mechanical fitter (albeit electrically trained) I have an aversion to using electrics for point operation.

I'm ok with electrics, but not with electronics.

The prototype of layout I'm building was almost all hand points anyway so I like to think that by avoiding the witchcraft that is electronics, I'm adhering to original principles.

Does any manufacturer offer a purely mechanical method for route setting, if so I'd be very pleased to hear about it.

 

Thanks in advance

 

E3109

Are you using Peco points?

 

Are you using electrofrog or insulfrog points (or unifrog set up for one or other operation) ?

 

If using electrofrog then for reliability some method of switching the frog polarity is normally required, you can get away with relying on the blades of elcetrofrog Peco points but I have tried that in the past and had to add additional switches after a while.

 

Insulfrog no need for any additional wiring.

 

You mention route setting, mechanically this is nearly impossible. Pairs of points, as in a crossover can be worked together.

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Hi,

You could always make point levers your self for each point and build in cams under the board to link other points such as pairs of points at crossovers. We have found that heavy steel wire and N gauge track works well for point rodding to do this. The track used is all peco now.

Here are some piccys to show you what I mean. I know this is a 16mm layout and is outside but the principle is the same. you just move the workings under the boards and extend the point levers downwards. we have used this system for 6 years and it has never failed. It is of course all scratch built

post-21711-0-69759900-1538996447_thumb.jpg

post-21711-0-10317900-1538996463_thumb.jpg

post-21711-0-22549300-1538996480_thumb.jpg

post-21711-0-37247300-1538996492_thumb.jpg

Edited by cypherman
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.

Blue Point available in UK from Paul Martin at EDM Models

 

http://ngtrains.com/Pages/TRA/blue_point.html

 

There was an article in Model Railway Journal a year or two ago about using Blue Point equipment.

 

.

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I'm currently experimenting with compressed air as with London Transport.   Rubber tubing connecting pistons from the Lego technics range.   It might work,  first tests say maybe,  and be that bit softer on soldered point rail vital connections. We shall see how it goes. As for cost, certainly cheaper than some electric options. 

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I’m typing this on an iPad so can’t insert links.

Try pdc.ca, click on laser cut accessories and scroll down to the “Simple Switch Machine”

I would try and add the instruction sheet but it’s not playing

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Thanks for all the replies fellas, a gold mine of info there.

I perhaps shouldn't have used the term 'route setting', as it conjures up images of ARS and crossover ladders, as I say it's mostly hand points so they'll be set one at a time.

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Thanks for all the replies fellas, a gold mine of info there.

I perhaps shouldn't have used the term 'route setting', as it conjures up images of ARS and crossover ladders, as I say it's mostly hand points so they'll be set one at a time.

In that case I'd definitely be leaning towards switches (slide or toggle to taste) as levers and wire in tube as linkages. Cheap, reliable and easy to conceal.

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