Ray Von Posted December 20, 2018 Share Posted December 20, 2018 (edited) Hi, I bought this expecting it to run straight from the box on my non-DCC layout, but it won't go! I know nothing about DCC, is the circuitry in the cab the decoder or plug? What am I doing wrong?? Edited December 20, 2018 by Ray Von Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Podhunter Posted December 20, 2018 Share Posted December 20, 2018 I bought this expecting it to run straight from the box on my non-DCC layout, but it won't go! Put the loco on your programming track. Use your DCC controller to query the loco's DCC chip. If there's nothing, then it's brainless and needs a chip. > is the circuitry in the cab the decoder or plug? It's hard to tell from your photo. Remove the body and examine the chassis in better light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Von Posted December 20, 2018 Author Share Posted December 20, 2018 Hi, thanks, and apologies for the picture quality - it's hard to get it in a decent light. I have an entirely DC setup, no DCC whatsoever. So am unable to test it in the way you suggest, I was trying to avoid dismantling at this stage too. Should a loco with a DCC decoder run on a DC track straight from the box? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokebox Posted December 20, 2018 Share Posted December 20, 2018 Should a loco with a DCC decoder run on a DC track straight from the box? It depends on wether dc running has been disabled or not. Most new decoders have dc running enabled by default. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Von Posted December 20, 2018 Author Share Posted December 20, 2018 Hmmm. Thanks, smokebox - it definitely doesn't go. Unfortunately, that's all I can say for sure right now! I obviously have no need for the DCC chip (if that's what it is in the cab) and only bought the loco because it was a good deal, it certainly looks in great nick, might have been a bit optimistic of me expecting it to run straight from the box... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Alex TM Posted December 20, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 20, 2018 Hi, If that is a Farish 'Jinty' then then, as far as I am aware they have only been supplied in DC mode, i.e. no chip. However if you have bought it 'used' it's possible that the previous owner has chipped it and, as suggested, disabled DC. The more recent Bachmann chips have DC disabled. A friendly model-shop, or someone with a DCC set-up, should be able to turn it back on. Hope that's of help. Regards, Alex. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Von Posted December 20, 2018 Author Share Posted December 20, 2018 Thanks Alex, it has "DCC 6" logo on the box, and is indeed second-hand. The logo on the box would suggest that it was at least "DCC ready" when new? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Alex TM Posted December 20, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 20, 2018 Hi Ray, The Jinty uses a non-standard 6-pin chip. It's non-standard in that it has a right-angled bend in the pins to allow the chip to fit in the space available. You have two options: 1. Replace the chip with a blanking plate. I'm not sure if these are available over-the-counter however Bachmann will supply them very cheaply. Simply send them an email, and they'll tell you the rest. 2. As suggested previously, ask someone with a DCC set-up to change the relevant cv setting on the chip. (This will be much easier than changing the chip). Hope that makes some sense. Regards, Alex. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Von Posted December 20, 2018 Author Share Posted December 20, 2018 Thanks Alex, I greatly appreciate that! I was actually just reading about blanking plugs/plates online and getting a sinking feeling! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir TophamHatt Posted December 21, 2018 Share Posted December 21, 2018 Ray, where do you live? Someone from here with a DCC controller may be able to change it for you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted December 21, 2018 Share Posted December 21, 2018 Some of the earlier Bachmann 6-pin decoders weren't able to run on DC, but later ones can. If yours is DCC-fitted and has an earlier decoder fitted, then that might account for the lack of response when you tried to run it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Right Away Posted December 21, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 21, 2018 If you're intending to stay with "standard" DC, you could always remove the blanking plug and socket completely and resolder the pick up feeds directly to the motor wires thus obviating any problematic issues in these areas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Izzy Posted December 21, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 21, 2018 Hi Ray, If you take a look here, post #20, you will see what the Jinty PCB and blanking plug look like. They are not standard i.e. the blanking plug has other bits on it. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/82934-farish-jinty-4f-2fs-dcc-with-stay-alive/ As has been said the original Bachmann 6-pin decoders do not work on DC, which might have been fitted. It is not clear from your shot whether a decoder is fitted or it's just the blanking plug you can see. It might be the latter and the loco just isn't working. If you need a new blanking plug I would suggest you contact Bachmann UK service dept as they are very helpful. Izzy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butler Henderson Posted December 21, 2018 Share Posted December 21, 2018 I take you have checked everything that was in the box in the case the blanking plug is with it - I often put the plug in the bag containing any add-ons I have not fitted and reseal it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Von Posted December 21, 2018 Author Share Posted December 21, 2018 Thanks for all the helpful replies, I contacted the seller last night via eBay - on the off chance that he might still have the blanking plug, and he said he would check his spares box but wasn't sure. Lo and behold, he found it today and is posting it off to me. (What a nice man!) I'm hopeful that once the blank plug is fitted that the engine will be up and running! It's great to know that this resource (the forum) is here for occurrences like this. With regards to my other options it may interest future readers to know that: 1) I emailed Bachmann "General Enquiries" and they responded with a message that my query has been passed on to their service team. 2) Placed a Wanted Ad here on the RMweb Homepage. 3) Had a look on ebay, (but no luck on this particular occasion.) Had these options failed, I would certainly have taken Sir Topham-Hatt's advice - and I'm sure some kind soul would have been able to activate the decoder. I also think that Right Away's idea of by-passing the DCC element altogether was a good suggestion. In the meantime, I have opened the Jinty up and removed the decoder! Now it's just a waiting game for the arrival of the blanking plug in the post... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butler Henderson Posted December 21, 2018 Share Posted December 21, 2018 Pins 1 & 2 are the motor connections, 3 & 4 go to the pick ups - you could make up a couple of jumpers from stiff wire / staples and test it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Von Posted December 21, 2018 Author Share Posted December 21, 2018 Thanks BH, but I'm having one of those weeks this week - knowing how my luck's going, I'm going to play it safe and wait for the post! PS- should've said in my previous post, another option I had would have been a trip to my local model shop - either to get a blanking plug or get the decoder reactivated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knitpick Posted December 21, 2018 Share Posted December 21, 2018 I had a similar problem testing for my son some N gauge locos with 6 pin DCC chips. Didn't work on plain DC which is all I have (although he said that they should). So I "borrowed" a six pin blanking plate from a Hattons P class and swapped that for the DCC chip. Worked fine with bodies off. After successful testing, I replaced chips in the N gauge locos and the blanking plate in the P. Might be worth contacting a local club to see if any of the members there can help you test to make sure the chassis works OK under DC before trying to get a blanking plate? Note that other small 00 locos also use a 6 pin chip / blanking plate; the P seemed the easiest to take apart to get at the blanking plate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Von Posted December 21, 2018 Author Share Posted December 21, 2018 Might be worth contacting a local club to see if any of the members there can help you test to make sure the chassis works OK under DC before trying to get a blanking plate. I assume you mean "under DCC?" :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Von Posted December 27, 2018 Author Share Posted December 27, 2018 UPDATE - The right-angled blanking plug arrived today and the loco runs perfectly under DC control. ☺ 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Alex TM Posted December 27, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 27, 2018 Excellent - a thread with a happy ending! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now