brian daniels Posted October 13, 2011 Author Share Posted October 13, 2011 Bob, the glue I use is Zap superglue, the runny one they do. Eileens do it. I have used this for years and found it to be the best so have stuck with it As you have done I rubbed the bogie surface with a fibreglass pen to stick the etches onto and they have stuck very well to it. As for the paint, yes I used acrylic Railmatch thinners for their paint as I did not want to push my luck with paints not being compatable. Glad we have another Deltic owner now Whose going to be the first to try replacing the buffers then? Personally I don't think the buffers are too bad when rubbed down and weathered. Here are a couple of pictures of it with some transfers on now. I only had 2 small arrows left on my HMRS sheet so it only has arrows on one side at the moment. I ordered some class 55 TOP's data panals from Precision Labels yesterday along with YK depot sticker and the York coat of arms. I ran my black Rotring ink pen round the markerlights. It should be a bit thicker but I thought I'd better quit while I was ahead. It was a nice job painting the window frames on the bodyside silver Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverstreak Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 Number 13 is looking fabulous Brian, I'm very envious. I was about to ask which transfers you use but I see you mention HMRS. I have only ever used the meths sheet so pressfix will be a new challange. I can press ahead now and order the paint and glue. While I await everything turning up/becoming available Im going to try and figure out how to create a cubicle compartment for the footplate and allow the relocation of the seats while staying clear of the motor bogie. The biggest challenge will be getting the shape of the wall boards behind each seat to fit the exact contours of the existing Heljan side glazing, Note I do say I will be trying to work out how to do it, achieving it is another matter As for replacing buffers I'm assuming the shanks are solid plastic so cutting off the heads and replacing with etched or cast options should not be too big a problem for those that dont particularly like the Heljan ones Finally Brian Im sure im not the only one on here who gains inspiration from your first - rate contributions to RMW . As I have said before all my recent O gauge experience has been building steam outline and therefore dealing with a 7mm plastic locomotive is a new experience for me. hence so many questions and all greatfully answered Regards Bob http://tracksrevisited.smugmug.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted October 13, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 13, 2011 Brian, I am sure I can hear the sleepers groaning as '13 passes over on its way to shed to get that brake lever fixed, Finsbury Park would have it done in no time not so sure about north of watford I can see Bob's point about the buffers, in fact all the Heljan 7mm seem to have thick faces, but I reckon a little thinning around the edge and as you say after weathering they will look the part, and one advantage of the originals is I think they could withstand a 10mph overun into Platform 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium TimC Posted October 13, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 13, 2011 Here are a couple of pictures of it with some transfers on now. I only had 2 small arrows left on my HMRS sheet so it only has arrows on one side at the moment. I ordered some class 55 TOP's data panals from Precision Labels yesterday along with YK depot sticker and the York coat of arms. Stunning! - I feel like The Durham Light Infantry are coming to get me, if you know what I mean! (I've got to go Oxford way again next week....) Do Precision Labels do the YK coat of arms too (I could not find it on their website). Also what do you do to tone down the glossyness of their tops data labels. I've been playing with some spares I have before actually applying them to my 33 and they are quite shiny from certain angles, any tips. Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted October 13, 2011 Author Share Posted October 13, 2011 (edited) Tim I phoned up Precision Labels to make sure he did those York coat of arms. He said to just put YK in the depot sticker bit when you make up the data panels and he would know what it is, I await the postman though to see if it worked! As to dulling them down I do varnish them when they are on, very carefully I might add as they are very thin transfers and in the past have pulled one apart with a paintbrush! I will have to re-attach the handbrakes temporaily David as I am going to a friends railway tomorrow for a Deltic fest, I have 2 and so has he! The trouble with replaceing the buffers as I can see it is that yellow buffer houseing mean you can't just stick an oval buffer body on it. If you change just the bufferhead how do you stop it rotating? You could put a wire from buffer to buffer behind the bufferbeam as I have done countless times on old RJH kits but this model has a dirty great chassis block in the way to do that. If you have a lathe you might be able to turn a lost wax buffer body down to get rid or the square base and leave just the round body that's painted black and if you use a JLTRT oval buffer they use a slot and tab affair to stop the buffer heads turning. Bob if you look at the last picture above I have cut the motors plastic screen off this one, you can see the brass flywheel through the window now. I too will make something up to replicate the interior screen sometime, probably after you have done yours Edited October 14, 2011 by brian daniels 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomstaf Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 Brian, Looking very nice. If you want a stop gap to the flywheel being on show, get the Birchwood-Casey out. I've applied it to my 33 flywheels to good effect. Cheers Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverstreak Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 Bob if you look at the last picture above I have cut the motors plastic screen off this one, you can see the brass flywheel through the window now. I too will make something up to replicate the interior screen sometime, probably after you have done yours Yes I see that now the brass flywheel just shows slightly through the glazing though I would not have noticed had you not pointed it out. As the release of the external etched parts are not due for week or so I have made a start on the Cab internals by cutting off the flywheel cover from the footplate and roughly levelled the floor on the secondman's side so that the seat and its existing stand can be re-sited. No doubt it will all have to be inspected by someone from ASLEF to ensure it meets with their approval. As for the partition screens I have come to the conclusion that they can only be fitted after the cabside glazing is put back in place. In the meantime I see some plasticard being wasted before I eventually get the correct shape/profile that can butt up against the curved inside of the glazing on one side but also which avoids contact with bogie housing on the other Enjoy your weekend Deltic fest Bob http://tracksrevisited.smugmug.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted October 14, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 14, 2011 Just a thought has anyone ever removed the flywheels and seen how the Heljans run sans mass but with DCC? If I had a flywheel puller I would be tempted after all there are many Locos running without flywheels perfectly well. They a fairly big side windows and would be nice to be able to get the backhead detail showing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 Sorry, but the thickness of those buffer-heads spoils it for me, as does the way they aren't level. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 Brian Have you got any idea how to remove the headcode from the clear plastic board? And do you know if Howes are or will be stocking the nose mounted lamp iron as you I have one broken and would like to replace it? Unfortunatley I'ts too late to change the etch and add two but if people would be happy with it I would be prepaired to produce a seperat etch with two Nose Lamp Irons and etched wipers if you think they would be worth doing let me know people? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverstreak Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 Pete Lamp irons are they not part of the following sprue http://www.howesmodels.co.uk/Railways/viewProduct.php?ProdID=7305 found under Heljan O gauge spares Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted October 14, 2011 Author Share Posted October 14, 2011 Pete, a sharp knife on a corner will lift the headcode transfer off the glazing, it's only a sticky paper job. As Bob has pointed out the lampbracket is on the top right of that sprue. I should give Howes a ring on Monday as I know Martyn is not there tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 Thanks Guys I will give them a ring on monday. I feel better now I know the headcode numbers can come off. Anyone know what Font the head code caractuers are? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted October 15, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 15, 2011 Hi Pete, are you going list the frets for the Heljan Deltic anytime soon, or is it still an ongoing process? I'd like to tuck a sheet away in the box for when I finally get around to detailing mine.....of course by then with the cost of nickel silver going up it might be worth me selling the fret for scrap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted October 15, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 15, 2011 BTW I not sure but I thought there were just the two fonts used by BR a normal and a condensed version, I did have the files before I changed to win7 and a new comp a few weeks ago. I will check my saved files on the ext drive and let you know if I still have them, they are in a word doc format. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 David Hopefully The Deltic set will be listed in the next week on my website so you should not have to wait too long. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 Thanks Guys I will give them a ring on monday. I feel better now I know the headcode numbers can come off. Anyone know what Font the head code caractuers are? Pete Hi Pete, Emailed the font to you just now. Hope it's of some use. JF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 (edited) Er, I get easily confused are you gentlemen talking about the "Johnsons Kleer" floor polish, there is indeed a new version, which by all accounts is not a patch on the old stuff. The newer version has a brown tint to the emulsion and I have been led to beleive it does not give as good a finish for our purposes. So if you have stocks of the original.....be careful with it and thrifty! I looked in every shop I could find for stocks of the original about 6 months ago, to no avail.....seems all old stocks have long gone Hi Brian & BB, Yep that's what I am on about. I have just two bottles left and one of those came from a mate into scalextric and found a source in Brum.. Isnt it just acrylic varnish? Some have said that Kleer doesnt age well?? ATB CME Edited October 17, 2011 by CME and Bottlewasher Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 (edited) I think you are talking at cross purposes here. Brian mentioned Kristal Klear which is a clear drying modelling glue (made in the USA by Microscale) used to fix glazing material or make small windows. You are referring to Johnson's Kleer, a floor varnish, which has many modelling uses and indeed I was lucky enough to lay down a life times stock (well three bottles) before the formula was changed. Hi Ah, I know the stuff/glue, thanks for clarifying ...... .......yet some use Kleer (Johnsons) to stick in glazing etc. I am not sure that I would...canopy glue seems a better option to my mind... ATVB CME Edited October 17, 2011 by CME and Bottlewasher Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian daniels Posted October 24, 2011 Author Share Posted October 24, 2011 I have been steadily doing a bit to the refurbished Heljan Deltic. I will do a bit more weathering with the airbrush shortly. Taking these pictures of the modified 55013 next to 55021 which is "out of the box" hopefully shows what a differance the PHD etches and a decent ETH make. I have to take the body off again of 55013 to put the front windows in fully, I can't think why I didn't do this when I put it back together Next I have to go back to 55021 and put the decent ETH on, cast horns and modify the bogies to bring it up to scratch. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium TimC Posted October 24, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 24, 2011 Nice work Brian. What weathering mix do you put on your bogies/fuel tanks? Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 Firstly, has anyone done anything towards the correction of the nose grilles in order to produce a decent two-tone green? Replacement etches? Secondly............picture six, Brian...........those buffers make me feel seasick! They are every which way. They scream, "Toy! It's a toy!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverstreak Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 (edited) Cracking images Brian, No 13 really looks the part now with a bit of weathering and I particularly like the stains coming down the side of the noses Im just waiting for the detailing sheet from Dr Etch as I have almost everything else including some very nice decals from John Peck Edited October 24, 2011 by Silverstreak Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium TimC Posted October 24, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 24, 2011 Firstly, has anyone done anything towards the correction of the nose grilles in order to produce a decent two-tone green? Replacement etches? The chaps at Shawplan plan to do this and much more, I spoke to them last week and 'by Christmas' was a planned timescale but we'll have to wait and see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 Hello Brian, glad that I'm not driving No. 13 as it would be like looking out of portholes. That apart nice job. OzzyO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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