RMweb Gold Graham T Posted August 22, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 22, 2021 On 20/08/2021 at 22:54, DRoe96 said: Thanks @gismorail, I'm glad you enjoyed the read. Backscenes are 3mm ply, the corner pieces were made from bendy ply I found on Amazon, typically it's used for furniture building. Painted with wood primer to seal it all and then a self-adhesive ID Backscene added on top. I used a similar method on Chuffnell Regis, but with cork sheet for the curves in the corners. I'm a big fan of ID backscenes! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoombeTown Posted August 22, 2021 Author Share Posted August 22, 2021 4 hours ago, Graham T said: I used a similar method on Chuffnell Regis, but with cork sheet for the curves in the corners. I'm a big fan of ID backscenes! Cork is probably a lighter option, however as the backscene forms part of the travel case for Coombe Town I have massively over-engineered it... so much for an Aerospace Engineer making everything as light as possible! The ID backscenes really do look a treat, and add a great deal to the layout. Which reminds me, I should really get on with some landscaping so the rest of the layout matches! 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted August 22, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 22, 2021 50 minutes ago, DRoe96 said: Cork is probably a lighter option, however as the backscene forms part of the travel case for Coombe Town I have massively over-engineered it... so much for an Aerospace Engineer making everything as light as possible! The ID backscenes really do look a treat, and add a great deal to the layout. Which reminds me, I should really get on with some landscaping so the rest of the layout matches! I've been known to over-engineer myself. And am also getting tempted to try doing some scenic work for a change. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold lezz01 Posted August 22, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 22, 2021 Yeh people have often told me that I over engineer things! To which my answer is always that it's better to over engineer things than under engineer them. Regards Lez. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoombeTown Posted August 25, 2021 Author Share Posted August 25, 2021 3 sets of 3D printed crew now completely painted. Despite my Airfix experience, I've never managed this much detail before! B2 Peckett Driver - Hardys Hobbies B2 Peckett Fireman - Hardys Hobbies And in natural light. Western Region Fireman - Modelu Western Region Driver - Modelu Outdoors again And a 16XX crew from Hardys Hobbies 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold lezz01 Posted August 26, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 26, 2021 Very nicely painted mate. Regards Lez. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoombeTown Posted September 25, 2021 Author Share Posted September 25, 2021 Well, not a great few weeks for the layout. I've moved house and Coombe Town seems to have come off a little worse for wear. Not entirely sure what has happened, none of the point motors will move the points. They all worked fine when the layout was dismantled but despite sounding like they are moving, the blades aren't. In an attempt to fix this I have removed the point spring in the furthest point and replaced the motor with a SEEP PM4, now there is no life at all! I believe that the problem is with the dsub jumper cables between the control panel a the boards and across the boards, but think I need a break before I try dealing with that. Any ideas of how to troubleshoot/fix would be appreciated. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 5BarVT Posted September 25, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 25, 2021 Not being sure what type of point motor you have I can’t be too specific. As you’ve tried a PM4 I assume they are solenoids. Can you get at the pin underneath to try moving them manually to see if they are stiff? If they are, then look at mechanical issues first. If they seem free to move, then it’s more likely electrical. Depending where it’s been stored, I would look for dirt/corrosion impeding mechanical movement, and the same in connectors for electrical. Paul. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 5BarVT Posted September 25, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 25, 2021 P.S. Sorry to hear of your troubles. Paul. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoombeTown Posted September 26, 2021 Author Share Posted September 26, 2021 Thanks Paul, much appreciated. Yes, currently they are Seep PM1s which seem to be moving freely on their own, so definitely an electrical issue. It could easily be dust in the connectors the van so I will take a look at that option as well. Cheers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold slow8dirty Posted September 26, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 26, 2021 What is point control circuit like? Where is the power supply from, is there a CDU? Is it a switch for each or is it probe and stud? What is each solenoid doing when it makes a noise, is it a case of not enough power to throw the solenoid? Given every point is affected I'd start by looking at point of supply and any common return. Sorry, hard to give useful advice without it in front of you. let us know how you get along, good luck. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoombeTown Posted September 26, 2021 Author Share Posted September 26, 2021 (edited) Here is a diagram of the point control circuits, thanks to @slow8dirty I've realised that the only common point between all points is the CDU. In the most stupid move of all time, I'd got the 12V & 15V supplies the wrong way around... I have no idea why I hadn't checked this previously, so now the challenge is to understand why the new PM4 is not working! Either way, 75% closer to full operation, and it fixed the electromagnetic uncoupler! Edited September 26, 2021 by DRoe96 Forgot to add image. 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoombeTown Posted September 26, 2021 Author Share Posted September 26, 2021 Turns out 5ft of cable and 2 connectors caused too much of a drop to move the PM4, so the PM1 was refitted. Which allowed the first full length passenger train to arrive on Coombe Town from the new fiddle yard! The Mogul also now has her crew fitted, which really makes a difference. And completely free of the hand of God, she is ready to depart again. 5 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoombeTown Posted October 6, 2021 Author Share Posted October 6, 2021 Work is ongoing on the Goods Shed guttering, although I've realised that a few more parts will have to be ordered from Modelu in the coming weeks. After failing to find the correct decoder at the weekend, I ordered a Lokpilot 5 from Olivia's which arrived today and is now successfully running the Railcar. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted October 6, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 6, 2021 Very nice. But do you mind if I'm a bit picky for a moment? Is there a CV where you can reduce the intensity of the lighting? It looks a bit too bright to me. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoombeTown Posted October 6, 2021 Author Share Posted October 6, 2021 Just now, Graham T said: Very nice. But do you mind if I'm a bit picky for a moment? Is there a CV where you can reduce the intensity of the lighting? It looks a bit too bright to me. It's not picky at all, I was thinking exactly the same thing. I will have to do some further digging with the CV settings, currently one of the top headlights is on the momentary F2 as well which needs to changed. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 5BarVT Posted October 6, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 6, 2021 7 minutes ago, Graham T said: Very nice. But do you mind if I'm a bit picky for a moment? Is there a CV where you can reduce the intensity of the lighting? It looks a bit too bright to me. I assumed it was demonstrating that the GWR had discovered LED lighting long before anyone realised . . . :-) Paul. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoombeTown Posted October 8, 2021 Author Share Posted October 8, 2021 Still haven't got around to those CVs, but like several others, the pointwork was up again today. I've now completed the classic peco point modification adding some additional bonding wires. No idea why I didn't do this the other week but it has vastly improved the running. 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrWolf Posted October 8, 2021 Share Posted October 8, 2021 I did much the same thing with my layout. As for why I didn't do it before I laid the track, the answer is simple: If I had done it earlier, I couldn't have annoyed the #### out of myself later. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted October 8, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 8, 2021 Perhaps I should do this to all my points.... Aaaaagh! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrWolf Posted October 8, 2021 Share Posted October 8, 2021 There is a way to cheat and do it with the track down. Drill through on the outside (non running side) of the four rails at the point where there is no plastic backing. Put a wire through and solder to the outer rail. Poke it back up next to the inner rail and solder. Repeat with the other pair of rails. 140 degree solder helps. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoombeTown Posted October 8, 2021 Author Share Posted October 8, 2021 As Rob says, there are definitely ways of doing it without lifting the track. I think it's fine without making the modification as long as you leave the point springs in, but without them it definitely needs doing, and if you plan on moving the layout a lot, it's worthwhile. So you might get away without it on Chuffnel Regis @Graham T Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted October 8, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 8, 2021 If I remember rightly (which is by no means guaranteed) the modification means you're no longer relying on the switch rails to make the electrical contact? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoombeTown Posted October 8, 2021 Author Share Posted October 8, 2021 Indeed, the switch rails are live constantly with the modification, in theory making it a lot harder to stall any loco. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham T Posted October 8, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 8, 2021 So, actually I do think I might need to do this. Unfortunately. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now