Meldon Quarry

[AdeMoore]

Well all was going awfully well! 


 

Until!!

I decided to modify the points as per Charlie Bishop and Dave on Dean Parks YouTube videos, only I slipped up and where I removed the link to the frog I soldered the joining wire! Heck all the lot to come up and redo and I’m slow that’s a more than a couple evenings work there, or do I knock it in the head and try to follow someone else’s layout where they have created a blow by blow account if there is even such a thing!
Think I’m good to redo. I feel a site visit coming on this weekend.
Until next time.

 Cheers 

[AdeMoore]

As seen I’ve  gone for electrofrog points. So hoping not to rely on the switch blades for switching the frog. I’ve been researching manual points, most use a SPDT switch using wire in tube method, I’m thinking I like the knob and dowel method very basic piano wire through the dowel and then up through baseboard and tie bar.

I drew up and idea of a rocker switch over on WT but Dave came back with this below a much better idea!

 

I’d go for a simple option using this type of microswitch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mount them on small blocks (or thick washers to give clearance for the operating rod) under the baseboard and use the point pin to activate them. 

I've drawn a picture to try and illustrate.

 

Dave

Copyright Yorkshire Dave!

 

As always comment give me feedback whatever.

until next time 

Cheers 

[AdeMoore]

Site visit didn’t happen awful weather!

So completed the track and many droppers yesterday but then tonight tore out the points and redid the modification connection.

 

 

Then burning fingers! And trying not to melt sleepers unsuccessfully.

[AdeMoore]

 

The new modification done and rail regapped.

Learning!

Until next time 

Cheers  

oh 2 posts as the 10MB limit was reached in the first one..

[AdeMoore]

I went over the the Southern Area Group section and posted this,

 

“Hi all hope you can help looking ahead to what stock I require on my Meldon layout as in Sig below, now I’m Steam era and already have a USA tank to ply its trade. But I really like this pic. Here can’t post here due to copyright! Anyway lovely looking train with 7 wagons and a brake van. Anyone care to venture what they are? 5 dogfish as http://www.kernowmodelrailcentre.com/p/57609/K4103-Heljan-Dogfish-Exclusive-Pack-of-4---BR-Civil-Engineers

2 Walrus as 

https://www.pufferwillies-stm.co.uk/cambrian-c65-176-oo-scale-walrus-40ton-ballast-hopper-wagon-16337-p.asp

and a 25 ton brakevan?

obviously I would like to know what they actually are and if my links are of the same. OO gauge layout.

 Cheers “

just as here doesn’t get the view traffic.

Gordon A said looks spot on! There’s a first now to find the most cost effective source!

 Cheers 

[AdeMoore]

So I’ve eventually got there! Track down and tested.
A first time layout so pretty pleased, after seeing a lot of hanging cables under the baseboard pleased to say although temporary I got it wired up on 2 way switches for now. One to see if my awful soldering was ok and two to check the track laying was also ok and three it worked!


 
Not the greatest photos but you get the idea.
I’ll upload a couple of videos for your amusement. Here soon.
As always all comments greatfully received.
Thanks for looking in.
Cheers

[AdeMoore]

The sleepers are just where they fell as the board needs flipping to install some timber bearers and the dowels and micro switches. When that’s done and it’s right way up finally I’ll get it all stuck in place.

 

[AdeMoore]

 

Yep I know the hand rail is bent I’ve left it for now as it’s more protected like that until we’re running proper so to speak, bending it’s back knocking it again before long she’d snap off is my theory.
Back on it tomorrow hopefully.

[AdeMoore]

The melted sleeper thing is just not being wary enough of either A where the wider part of the iron is touching or B not sticking to my self imposed limit of if the cable is to hot to hold from heat transfer stop! 
From 3ft I doubt you would notice but as we all like the occasional cruel close up I’ll doctor them up with knife and even filler if I have to.
Next I’m pondering PVA or Copydex to stick the track down I’m Also going the Captain Kernow route of ballast then rather than pipette and 50/50 water Pva later.
Seen here on Gordon’s layout almost bottom of the page Eastwood Town....Two into one, will go....
But with Rays take on it. “My words not his”
The track for the carriage siding was sprayed with Plasticote Suede, glued down using full strength PVA, sprinkled with ballast while still wet, weighted and left to dry overnight
Camel Quay - A North Cornwall inspired layout in 4mm
On the other channel I know not searched here for ballasting yet must do that .
Thanks for looking in.
Cheers

[AdeMoore]

 

 

The coach wheels are too course for these points! They crash the wing rails? Is that the right term?
The 16T is the only goods wagons I have! Nice to see the Tank with something attached.
Cheers

[AdeMoore]

 

The coach wheels are too course for these points! They crash the wing rails? Is that the right term?
The 16T is the only goods wagons I have! Nice to see the Tank with something attached.
Cheers

[AdeMoore]

So after a little shunting up and back, this way and that.
It was time to press on.

 

 

Marked up the board for the point operating dowels, then out with the drill and 12mm spade bit and in no time 6 holes for the dowels.

 

 

hen I flipped the board over.
Now you hear plenty of boards warping due to lack of bracing! Look here I must of been skilled! Or lucky about 20 years old barely braced this side (I ran out of 4 inch timber I seem to remember) still level and straight.

 

 

So next job is stick a 4 inch longitudinal brace this side mainly to support the dowel this side.

I know I should of got the carpentry done first! But I’m more confident in that than track soldering and laying so wanted to win with that first.
Thanks for your comments and likes.
Until next time Cheers.

[AdeMoore]

 

10MB limit so logged in again for these.

Edited February 9, 2020 by AdeMoore
Has 3 more photos

[AdeMoore]

Bit ‘o’ woodwork. 

 

 

Dowels and micro switches next.

 

Table football!

Bit more done but ever keen good job I had to go to bed yesterday, as I was busy repositioning the wire trunking as this pillock put it along the middle forgetting I had allowed the cables along the front! Then started labelling and laying in the cables got so far then turned in. Lying in bed it dawned if I wire it all up tidy I won’t be able to lift and stick down the track! Got carried away see! So I thought I need to prove the intended point operation which worked a dream first time.
I used some mini trunking lid to mount the micro switch on with 2 holes one elongated to allow adjustment.
The T smaller dowel I figured from the start as putting the operating dowels low as I want to for reasons you’ll see much much later, there would be to much flex in the piano wire at that length.

 

 

 

So pleased with that but now I’ve not made the wiring up mistake time to turn it over and get the track glued down weathered and ballasted before I flip it and get the wiring up together including the switch panel.
Thanks for looking in.
Until next time
Cheers

[AdeMoore]

Blimey Charlie another mistake! I was going for 9mm between sleepers rather than the 10mm scale due to the narrower gauge as described before.
I made a tool to gauge it which would also double as a spreader between the sleepers.
Couldn’t work out why my prep was out and had to loose more sleepers.
Slept on it and realised I’d gone 9mm between the sleepers not centres! Hence the narrow gauge look. Quickly in morning before work pulled it up lucky it came up ok with a bit of force. Propped it up till this evening.

Retrimmed the spacing tool and slid the sleepers I took off yesterday back on then PVA and got lining up and spacing.

 

Just the joint sleepers to slide in.
Below experimenting with lightweight filler.

Wasn't a good experiment.

thanks for looking in more soon

cheers 

[AdeMoore]

Now I’ve stuck the rear most up line and 3/4 of the loop then I remember I was going to follow Rays technique see Feb 9th post above. But to paint first I need the sleepers spaced right!

So with some superglue to hold misbehaving sleepers I set about that on the remainder.

The Mike Buick (Oak Road) School of thought is glue paint ballast paint! He knows but I’m willing to try and fail trying!

paint Pva and ballast while PVA still wet, as Rays Camel Quay.

So points are taped up ready for spraying.

 

Tried an experiment indoors windows open! The rattle can of plastikote suede still stunk the room out!

 

The bit of track top right will have to be replaced, a bit of badly spaced track I left with ballast trials!

more soon

Cheers

Ade

 

Edited March 23, 2020 by AdeMoore

[AdeMoore]

So lovely weather to get the layout outdoors to spray the rattle can! But as of last Wednesday working from home due to Covid19  so get an extra hourish modelling at home.

Trouble was it was way too windy so resorted to the shed.

There I laid a coat of Plastikote suede on.

 

Then back up to the train room as it’s become known! The next day and start on the weathering as advised by @NHY 581

on his excellent thread  “The Sheep Chronicles. Dipping one's hoof into an industrial backwater...The continuing adventures of Norman Lockhart”.. Where Rob has opened it up to anyone to post during the current situation.

 

Below a test piece with buffer stops used as a photo prop just to give an idea of 00 gauge track at the HO scale spacing. Also An attempt at some track weathering.

 

 

No idea why these photos come out smaller than the others did nothing different and the double tap resize doesn’t allow 800 x 601 as the others above.

So in the engine shed as it will be hidden mainly is the first attempt at weathering the track.

 

 

Only disappointing thing is I was heavy handed with the rattle can and lost the sleeper grain detail so they look like concrete sleepers.

so I need to rub the paint off on the rest before continuing.

Until next time 

Cheers 

 

[AdeMoore]

 

Got the track somewhere like it weathering wise.

made a place holder out of the Yorkshire tea mock up! Yeah I didn’t know it was a thing either until I saw it mentioned on a few YouTube videos!

 

 

Below my airfix builds kits over 50 years old acquired from eBay waterslide transfers still worked.

 

Next ballasting!

 Cheers 

[AdeMoore]

Very mixed success, but very first time doing any ballast.

below with the grey and dark grey the time honoured 50/50 Pva water spot of washing up liquid. Ok but had to use a bbq skewer to apply as I had no pip-pet or syringe.
 

The lower line and photo below I read on Gordon’s thread  Pete75C post it’s a method attributed to @Captain Kernow paint in thin PVA between the sleepers and sprinkle ballast and hoover up excess. However Pete advises leaving an hour before hoovering off. To get a deeper fill. This I did but I think the instructions should of said flat out ballast first.

As I didn’t and because of capillary action it glued ballast up above the sleepers! These photos had work done to remedy  to a degree before taking them.

 

Below closest to camera the hour wait mess.

Rear track the paint in PVA and hoover immediately good on SMP type track as referred to in the linked thread, but a bit thin on Peco. 

 

 

 

Closest track in 3 photos below 3rd method Rays method @tender neat PVA track down then while wet sprinkle on the ballast. Was the least labour to do. I wasn’t quite quick enough with the hoover and had some capillary action sticking some ballast above the sleepers. I had to leave as many advise. Sort next day and as I had to weight the points down.

Photos after some remedial work. 

 

 

ok that’s it more using Rays method until complete and a touch up of the rest.

until next time 

Cheers 

[AdeMoore]

Boring stuff but a record for me! 
Uncoupling magnet holes cut in foam underlay.

 

Super glued in position, only do one at a time until properly dried as they are so strong they will ping together.

 

 

Neat PVA’ed the point down.

Blue tack in holes where wires come up, to Stop ballast dropping through.



Ballasted immediately and pushed about and hoovered off.

But still needs a bit of 50/50 dripped on for the loose where the PVA has not risen.

When I started the layout I had no idea there was a pit in the shed but a photo turned up showing it so now time to consider it.
First the track was not central in the shed so that needed addressing

 

A pit needs to be made got some timber for that, then line it in wills block sheets, the track can go down after that.
Thanks for looking in!
Until next time
Cheers

[AdeMoore]

Well ballasting finally complete! Yay!
But first to mess about and finish ish the pit.
Used the Scale Model Scenery rule to determine the depth, 5 blocks look right.

 

 

Read somewhere file the face to take off some of the sharp edges for a better look.

 

 
Bottom left below filed. Not sure it’s worth it.



Cut up some laminate and impact adhesive and superglued stuck it together.

 

Acrylic paint grey, then a black wash! 


Stuck in with impact adhesive.

 

Decorators chalk levelled it up.

 

PVA’ed the track here but the little sleepers along the pit were superglued.

 

Crushed lightweight block for yard ballast. In the background right a test piece to see if it could work!
Middle flattened ballast/dust done with a spoon, left as out the dish.

 

 

My technique of gluing the dust, normally it beads up and rolls away and makes a mess, to over come I first spray bottled water but latter found it needed a good soaking. Then dropping on a 50/50 water+ PVA mix with ample washing up liquid!
But very gapped to start, then filling in the gaps slowly as it sunk away. But if it rolls away leave a while before trying again.



Then it still needed a prod where some rolled away and made bumps.

 

 

I would of used the well known DAS method but had none, almost bought some before the lockdown too! 
Hence this trial and error method.
Upon drying it got bumpier, so a roll of tape was used to flatten it.

Not as smooth as I hoped but I can work with it.
Next up get the board back over to do the points and wire it all up to a panel looking forward to that.
Cheers for the likes etc. Post your comments good or not.
Until next time.
Cheers

Edited May 3, 2020 by AdeMoore
Adding in photos

[Alister_G]

Hi Ade,

 

Now you have it to that state, try rubbing some more of the dust in dry, with your fingers, that should smooth out the surface a bit, and then give it an indirect blast of hairspray to fix it. I say indirect, 'cos if you get too close it will just blow the dust off again...

 

Al.

[AdeMoore]

5 hours ago, Alister_G said:

Hi Ade,

 

Now you have it to that state, try rubbing some more of the dust in dry, with your fingers, that should smooth out the surface a bit, and then give it an indirect blast of hairspray to fix it. I say indirect, 'cos if you get too close it will just blow the dust off again...

 

Al.

Cheers Al great tip I’ll give that a try.

[AdeMoore]

Wiring partly completed need to do the control panel with isolation switches and connect up to a controller.
But first the point operating dowels and micro switches need to go in and be connected.

 

 

until next time

Cheers

[Northmoor]

On 14/04/2020 at 22:40, AdeMoore said:

Very mixed success, but very first time doing any ballast.

below with the grey and dark grey the time honoured 50/50 Pva water spot of washing up liquid. Ok but had to use a bbq skewer to apply as I had no pip-pet or syringe.
 

I'm just about to get to this stage with my own creation, also the first time doing ballasting (bites knuckles).

If I can get mine to look as good as this, I'll be happy.