What's on your 3mm workbench

[TT100 Diesels]

37403 progress.......

 

Got the mini ploughs epoxied on to the bogie transoms, bogies and underframe had matt black then weathered black base coats applied. Started to build up colour on the ploughs, need these fully painted before messing with the buffer beam detailing pipes and jumpers etc as they will be in front of the ploughs and would make access more difficult.

 

Also painted the roof, ended up as a home brew mix of white and Citadel "Admisinstratium grey". This was because the railmatch acrylic rail grey 2206 isn't - its more beige, so had an abortive time applying it and hoping it dried right, err it did not. So I had to sort out a roof that was essentially intercity swallow livery coach beige! So need to let it all harden, there is a lot of masking bled under and masking edge ridge to rework with fine finishing grit paper.

 

 

Starting to look a lot more "Ingey three". I think the mini ploughs make it "pop". Funny that they look a lot more yellow than actually are, they still need a few more thin coats yet.

 

With the primer on, round the windscreens, they are looking a lot better after two rounds of very careful fettling, than the as supplied print bodyshell, I am very pleased how they turned out. Ok, not Accurascale, but my eye is pleased, so that's all that matters.

 

Cheers

 

D.

[bradfordbuffer]

47 minutes ago, TT100 Diesels said:

37403 progress.......

 

Got the mini ploughs epoxied on to the bogie transoms, bogies and underframe had matt black then weathered black base coats applied. Started to build up colour on the ploughs, need these fully painted before messing with the buffer beam detailing pipes and jumpers etc as they will be in front of the ploughs and would make access more difficult.

 

Also painted the roof, ended up as a home brew mix of white and Citadel "Admisinstratium grey". This was because the railmatch acrylic rail grey 2206 isn't - its more beige, so had an abortive time applying it and hoping it dried right, err it did not. So I had to sort out a roof that was essentially intercity swallow livery coach beige! So need to let it all harden, there is a lot of masking bled under and masking edge ridge to rework with fine finishing grit paper.

 

 

Starting to look a lot more "Ingey three". I think the mini ploughs make it "pop". Funny that they look a lot more yellow than actually are, they still need a few more thin coats yet.

 

With the primer on, round the windscreens, they are looking a lot better after two rounds of very careful fettling, than the as supplied print bodyshell, I am very pleased how they turned out. Ok, not Accurascale, but my eye is pleased, so that's all that matters.

 

Cheers

 

D.

Looking good....is the 37 on the last one back from Mallaig with the sun setting behind the loco!

[TT100 Diesels]

17 minutes ago, bradfordbuffer said:

Looking good....is the 37 on the last one back from Mallaig with the sun setting behind the loco!

 

Funny enough, the left hand photo is a sun set near Stromness, so quite a lot more north than Mallaig !

 

And talking of mini snow ploughs, I said up thread that @Phil Mason has made some previously so blazing the trail in 3mm, I found  a photo of them on one of his scratch build 26's.

 

 

Sorry its one of my not so good pics, but in the distance, the mini ploughs are visible on Phil's lovely 26. (An 1160hp Sulzer fest on Bluish).

 

 

And a more side on shot I took of it on Dely Y Coed.

 

But kudos to  Phil for blazing the mini snow plough trail in 3mm.

 

Cheers

 

D.

 

Edited April 23 by TT100 Diesels
Posted too soon finger trouble on tablet

[TT100 Diesels]

Waiting for the proverbial paint to dry! On with building up the livery elements so a couple of progress pix.

 

 

Work bench clutter ! Its half way through building up the yellow element, using Railmatch Warning Yellow 2202 acrylic. Be honest, I don't rate it, for a start its "too orange" for my liking, but was happy to live with that, but even nicely thinned down it goes on awful, very patchy and poor flow. I had already done 3 thinned coats of white primer for a good base for it as well. 

 

 

Today, it was out with my trusty Humbrol RC 407 Yellow acrylic, its brilliant, flows and covers lovely even when thinned down. Trouble is, they dropped the "RC" paints range and I am eeking out my last dregs of my "precious pot"!

 

No doubt Precision enamel yellow is ok, but I am trying to lessen my use of enamels where possible, so I might try a few different shaded of Citadel (warhammer) yellows to get a match, I am very impressed with Citadel acrylics, they cover and flow very nicely.

 

Anyway, that's the yellow front end and cab base applied, (and the roof grey done), started on the black. Attempting to hand paint the curve above the windscreens as its well nigh impossible to create a nice smooth masking tape curve. So it will be ever decreasing rework circles till I am happy with it.

 

The nose requires masking, but I want to wait now and let the yellow harden before messing with tape.

 

 

Chassis wise, the mini ploughs are finished and started on the buffers and buffer beam. Need to limber up to do the ETH sockets and pipework, but overall this is fast progress for me.

 

Cheers

D.

Edited April 25 by TT100 Diesels
Spelling

[Phil Mason]

 

Tin plate ploughs. No claim to originality but I chickened out of the middle bit, possibly making TT100's a 'first'? I used tin plate because I thought plastic would look too thick (but I've been proved wrong) and I'd done similar ones in 2mm. 

 

My question to the railway professionals out there is "should they be attached to the body" and to modellers "would that make it easier or do we have a problem with greater than prototypical 'bogie swivel'? 
 

 

I couldn't find 403 in present day or 80s, so you'll have to make do with this, posing at York recently. 
 

At this rate, HPJ will have more locos than Toton...

[Phil Mason]

On 21/04/2024 at 13:52, bradfordbuffer said:

Errr 3mm please!....so we don't get confused for the euro trash

Don't! Just Don't! We really really don't want to start scale/gauge wars (I model in 2, 3 and 4mm). But I nearly choked laughing! 
 

Oh, and a bit of 7mm and SM32. I had intended to try some RC in the big scale. I never thought that Reddevil would be showing us how to do it in 3mm. 

[TT100 Diesels]

9 minutes ago, Phil Mason said:

 

My question to the railway professionals out there is "should they be attached to the body" and to modellers "would that make it easier or do we have a problem with greater than prototypical 'bogie swivel'?

 

Hi Phil,

 

Better pic of your 26 than mine up thread, and great pix of 401. LL 37's just 'pop' 👍.

 

Re mini ploughs, on 37's they are all hung off the underside of the buffer beam. Probably are on most / all other classes but can't say for certain.

 

As for my model of 403, I mounted them onto the bogie transom as it was a very handy and easy and logical way to do it on a model. They sit in about the correct position as if hung from the buffer beam. I did it like this as the transom was thicker and projects forward more than the real locos. 

 

So two problems, if modelling them off the buffer beam, first the model transom likely to foul them om bogie rotation and the fixings would be harder to model and the whole set up more fragile. 

 

The bonus feature of bogie mounting on this particular model is that the buffer beam pipes etc can be fitted and will not be fouled by the ploughs. At least it looked that way when I did the development mock ups. Hope that still comes to pass when I get to the fitting them stage 🤔.

 

Your 26 ploughs look more to scale thickness I must say,  but my plasticard ones don't look too bad, and they will also get weathered.

 

 

Plonked the body back on the chassis and took this shot. Pleases my eye anyway!

 

Cheers

 

D.

[Phil Mason]

It's the pipes that cause the problem on rotation. I was thinking that if I'd fitted it all on the body/bufferbeam there'd be no relative movement and then it'd just be a case of shaving bits off the bogie (which you can't see anyway). 
 

P. 

[bradfordbuffer]

3 hours ago, Phil Mason said:

 

Tin plate ploughs. No claim to originality but I chickened out of the middle bit, possibly making TT100's a 'first'? I used tin plate because I thought plastic would look too thick (but I've been proved wrong) and I'd done similar ones in 2mm. 

 

My question to the railway professionals out there is "should they be attached to the body" and to modellers "would that make it easier or do we have a problem with greater than prototypical 'bogie swivel'? 
 

 

I couldn't find 403 in present day or 80s, so you'll have to make do with this, posing at York recently. 
 

At this rate, HPJ will have more locos than Toton...

20s 31s 37s 47s body mounted brackets...presume the others are same

None fitted to 56s 60s have 'obstacle deflector' not a snow plough (although did clear line on S&C with one ...hit a 6ft drift with no damage)

[TT100 Diesels]

9 hours ago, Phil Mason said:

It's the pipes that cause the problem on rotation. I was thinking that if I'd fitted it all on the body/bufferbeam there'd be no relative movement and then it'd just be a case of shaving bits off the bogie (which you can't see anyway). 
 

P. 

 

You are quite correct Phil. 

 

But on my 37 they would need to be further forward to clear the bogie transom, or I could remove material from the bogie transom (there is a risk as its 3d print).

 

The other issue for the model which I forgot to mention just up thread is that its going to need a wire loop coupler. Probably coming off the bogie transom between the ploughs and bent to suit.

 

Being bogie mounted is better "coupling wise" than off the fixed body (buffebeam). If it were to be a TMD layout queen, with no couplers, perhaps buffer beam mounted ploughs would work.

 

Cheers

D.

 

 

[03060]

On 25/04/2024 at 21:36, TT100 Diesels said:

 

Hi Phil,

 

Better pic of your 26 than mine up thread, and great pix of 401. LL 37's just 'pop' 👍.

 

Re mini ploughs, on 37's they are all hung off the underside of the buffer beam. Probably are on most / all other classes but can't say for certain.

 

As for my model of 403, I mounted them onto the bogie transom as it was a very handy and easy and logical way to do it on a model. They sit in about the correct position as if hung from the buffer beam. I did it like this as the transom was thicker and projects forward more than the real locos. 

 

So two problems, if modelling them off the buffer beam, first the model transom likely to foul them om bogie rotation and the fixings would be harder to model and the whole set up more fragile. 

 

The bonus feature of bogie mounting on this particular model is that the buffer beam pipes etc can be fitted and will not be fouled by the ploughs. At least it looked that way when I did the development mock ups. Hope that still comes to pass when I get to the fitting them stage 🤔.

 

Your 26 ploughs look more to scale thickness I must say,  but my plasticard ones don't look too bad, and they will also get weathered.

 

 

Plonked the body back on the chassis and took this shot. Pleases my eye anyway!

 

Cheers

 

D.

Although I've been very quiet this week (due to being on nights) I'm watching this build avidly, Dave, the West Highland Line being very close to my heart.

 

Coming along very nicely.

 

Regards,

Ian.

[TT100 Diesels]

Thanks @03060, that is very kind. Yes, WHL and Kyle have come to the fore with me too ! And doing 403, well its just a massive celebrity machine, especially so in its second life from the twenty teens with DRS et al.

 

 

One of my pics I am working off, 406 and 410 at Queen St. Solid inspiration !

 

While I am on, a little work bench update to whet the appetite if I may be allowed.

 

 

Massive progress, onto the fourth and final base livery element. 5 washes applied so far, colour starting to build up (note, its a better tone in reality, blame the tablet cam). Funny, looking at the pic noted a bit of orange over paint just to the right of the MU socket !

 

Its a cruel close up, shows a lot more rough livery interfaces etc, looks better in the flesh with my ageing eyes (honest). 

 

 

And not forgetting the chassis, done the ETH and MU plugs and sockets, because so much will end up crammed in, I decided on a fit a bit, paint, fit a bit more etc.....

 

I have to apologies for taking over the 3mm workbench thread at the mo but I am genuinely excited about how this loco build is shaping up. It's my first LL Blue build, and its great fun.

 

Cheers

 

D.

[bradfordbuffer]

On 26/04/2024 at 01:33, bradfordbuffer said:

20s 31s 37s 47s body mounted brackets...presume the others are same

None fitted to 56s 60s have 'obstacle deflector' not a snow plough (although did clear line on S&C with one ...hit a 6ft drift with no damage)

Well a visit to Key model world show it would of been rude not to take pictures of plough brackets of the 37 on display....didn't have to put hv vest on nor crunch ballast! 

[TT100 Diesels]

That's superb @bradfordbuffer, cheers for the close ups, there is not a lot of room on the real loco, my model is going to tight around the buffer beam.

 

Just took a massive deep breath and removed the masking tape off the blue livery element..... Well, have to say I am super pleased with the result, especially as it took about 10 coats of rail blue wash. So was just a bit apprehensive.

 

 

Can't wait for the decals and nameplate pack now.

 

Meanwhile, its faffing about on buffer beam detailing.

 

Cheers

 

D.

[BetweenTheTunnels]

Well my workbench has ground to a halt just lately, as work trips away and family life have taken over. Hoping to get back on with things slowly.  I've been sat pondering the bogies for the Mk1 and Gresley coaches that I've been designing, and it brought me to a query...

 

What is the accepted standard for 3mm - compensated or not - when it comes to coach bogies.  Hopefully each will be fitted with pick-ups feeding to a bespoke PCB strip i've designed for the lighting, which will have a capacitor (or battery) / dcc function decoder built in for lighting.  Part of me says going for compensated design should lead to smoother running, but as im hand-building the trackwork anyway, another part of me says its not needed?

 

The bogies are an etched nickle silver design, onto which 3mm Society bogie frames will be mounted. 

 

Anyone, any thoughts?

Richie

[TT100 Diesels]

Hi Ritchie, 

 

I don't have any experience of modelling compensation into bogies and running gear, but conventional wisdom seems to imply that the finer the scale, the more likely compensation will be necessary to avoid derailments, unless you can make sure your track is billiard board level due to shallower rail profile and less deep flanges.

 

If you are on the e-group, I would suggest asking there as well, no doubt quite a few 14.2 modellers will have practical experience of compensation as applied to 3mm scale running gear.

 

Hope this helps

 

Cheers

 

D.

 

[Phil Mason]

17 hours ago, TT100 Diesels said:

a cruel close up, shows a lot more rough livery interfaces etc, l

You're too hard on yourself. It looks perfect to me. 
 

P. 
 

This is the third time I've tried to post this reply. Apols to all if it now come out three times... 

[03060]

13 hours ago, BetweenTheTunnels said:

Well my workbench has ground to a halt just lately, as work trips away and family life have taken over. Hoping to get back on with things slowly.  I've been sat pondering the bogies for the Mk1 and Gresley coaches that I've been designing, and it brought me to a query...

 

What is the accepted standard for 3mm - compensated or not - when it comes to coach bogies.  Hopefully each will be fitted with pick-ups feeding to a bespoke PCB strip i've designed for the lighting, which will have a capacitor (or battery) / dcc function decoder built in for lighting.  Part of me says going for compensated design should lead to smoother running, but as im hand-building the trackwork anyway, another part of me says its not needed?

 

The bogies are an etched nickle silver design, onto which 3mm Society bogie frames will be mounted. 

 

Anyone, any thoughts?

Richie

Likewise I'm not an accomplished coach builder (yet) but I can vouch for the MJT compensated bogie kits that the Society and possibly 3SMR sell.

 

I found them easy to solder together for the two 'part built' Branchlines SR coaches that I started many moons ago. My 3mm mentor (Alan Smith) has used them on many of his 12mm gauge coaches over the years and I have first hand experience of playing ... err ... I mean operating with them on his Everingham layout, mind you his track is always pretty good as well.

 

I can't comment on whether or not compensation is necessary or not but these little bogie units certainly do a good job.

 

Regards,

Ian.

Edited April 28 by 03060
Correction

[bradfordbuffer]

1 hour ago, MarshLane said:

@TT100 Diesels @03060

Guys thanks for the response.  Yes I am on the eGroup, so I'll ask the question but both of you have come down on the same side of the argument that I did, and the supporting background and reasoning was useful, thanks. I'll go down that route I think.  Also thanks to Ian, as I had not realised the shop did MJT compensated bogie kits. I'll look into those.  One thought of designing my own etch is to make fitting pick-ups easier, although logically, pick-ups cannot be too difficult to add to any coach bogie!

 

Cheers guys

Richie

Don't forget dcc concepts bogie pick up springs for sliding on to 1.5mm axel

[BetweenTheTunnels]

@TT100 Diesels @03060

Guys thanks for the response.  Yes I am on the eGroup, so I'll ask the question but both of you have come down on the same side of the argument that I did, and the supporting background and reasoning was useful, thanks. I'll go down that route I think.  Also thanks to Ian, as I had not realised the shop did MJT compensated bogie kits. I'll look into those.  One thought of designing my own etch is to make fitting pick-ups easier, although logically, pick-ups cannot be too difficult to add to any coach bogie!

 

Cheers guys

Richie

[TT100 Diesels]

37403 update, finished the buffer beam detailing, they are quite crowded now, did not bother to include the white pipes (MU ops control air) and was defeated by the actual jumper cables for the ETH and MU as they both run from buffer beam outlets to nose end receptacles. So I decided to omit the cabling due to the requirement to remove the body. All the plugs, sockets and receptacles are represented though. 

 

It was fun to do, had to paint up and fit as I went along, only viable way of getting all the painting done on the detail.

 

So, body was reunited with the chassis. A few pix

 

 

General view, base colour scheme essentially complete, the doorway handrails have been painted since.

 

 

Get a feel for the "busy" buffer beam area from this low angle shot. But doing ETH and MU jumper cables would be trickey.

 

Can't believe how I continue to motor on with this build, they usually span months!

 

Cheers

 

D.

Edited April 28 by TT100 Diesels
Spelling

[97406]

On 28/04/2024 at 23:57, TT100 Diesels said:

37403 update, finished the buffer beam detailing, they are quite crowded now, did not bother to include the white pipes (MU ops control air) and was defeated by the actual jumper cables for the ETH and MU as they both run from buffer beam outlets to nose end receptacles. So I decided to omit the cabling due to the requirement to remove the body. All the plugs, sockets and receptacles are represented though. 

 

It was fun to do, had to paint up and fit as I went along, only viable way of getting all the painting done on the detail.

 

So, body was reunited with the chassis. A few pix

 

 

General view, base colour scheme essentially complete, the doorway handrails have been painted since.

 

 

Get a feel for the "busy" buffer beam area from this low angle shot. But doing ETH and MU jumper cables would be trickey.

 

Can't believe how I continue to motor on with this build, they usually span months!

 

Cheers

 

D.

 

That’s looking great especially so considering that you don’t have the benefit of a modern RTR version to start with. The paint job’s good and you’ve eliminated creep under the tape which is especially difficult if you use a brush. They did just make it to Buxton in Large Logo livery before being painted in more elaborate schemes so it can be a modern slant on your layout. Here’s one of my Accurascale ones which I’m using to try and persuade them to release some PHV hoppers. There’s a pic in the post if you click on it.

 

[TT100 Diesels]

15 minutes ago, 97406 said:

 

That’s looking great especially so considering that you don’t have the benefit of a modern RTR version to start with. The paint job’s good and you’ve eliminated creep under the tape which is especially difficult if you use a brush. They did just make it to Buxton in Large Logo livery before being painted in more elaborate schemes so it can be a modern slant on your layout. Here’s one of my Accurascale ones which I’m using to try and persuade them to release some PHV hoppers. There’s a pic in the post if you click on it.

 

 

 

Thanks 97406, yes, starting out with what is to me museum quality models (Accurascale 37's) would be a nice weathering project. But in 3mm its a 'mountain' to climb, but have to say, Lincoln Locos certainly help give me a 'leg up' on the climb to the summit.

 

And while the summit view may not be as 'crisp', it is still a great sense of achievement. 

 

Cheers

TT100 Diesels

 

PS - One of these days, I might just get hold of a nice rtr loco in another scale and try my hand at a weathering job. Something that can run on 12mm track perhaps.......

[97406]

52 minutes ago, TT100 Diesels said:

 

 

Thanks 97406, yes, starting out with what is to me museum quality models (Accurascale 37's) would be a nice weathering project. But in 3mm its a 'mountain' to climb, but have to say, Lincoln Locos certainly help give me a 'leg up' on the climb to the summit.

 

And while the summit view may not be as 'crisp', it is still a great sense of achievement. 

 

Cheers

TT100 Diesels

 

PS - One of these days, I might just get hold of a nice rtr loco in another scale and try my hand at a weathering job. Something that can run on 12mm track perhaps.......

 

Thing is with the smaller scales they come into their own when viewed from a distance as it’s the scene as much as the models. With me I like to recreate and photograph scenes from depot and works visits so I like things to be as good as possible at close quarters. 4mm currently has the best RTR models for that. 7mm has some great models, but most of the RTR diesels are a little ‘off’ and jolly expensive. The Pete Waterman kits were great but not easy to get hold of at the moment from the new supplier and cost even more than the RTR models.

[TT100 Diesels]

On 30/04/2024 at 10:46, 97406 said:

 

Thing is with the smaller scales they come into their own when viewed from a distance as it’s the scene as much as the models. With me I like to recreate and photograph scenes from depot and works visits so I like things to be as good as possible at close quarters. 4mm currently has the best RTR models for that. 7mm has some great models, but most of the RTR diesels are a little ‘off’ and jolly expensive. The Pete Waterman kits were great but not easy to get hold of at the moment from the new supplier and cost even more than the RTR models.

 

Apologies to the 3mm peeps, were going a bit off topic, 

 

Yes 97406, having enjoyed (and continue to enjoy) your updates on Nifkins Bridge, I would tend to agree with you in that 4mm rtr is probably the 'sweet spot ' size wise for off the shelf fidelity, plus the huge range of super detailing products which you are using to kitbash / improve them further. 

 

Be nice if Shawplan et al shot down their stuff to 3mm as well, be able to use the products to improve on and turn out higher fidelity locos off the work bench.

 

Back on topic, 

Latests from my work bench, finished the last of the 37/4 paint fettling and got big gloss varnish patches  on where the large logo decals will be placed, still waiting for the post man with the decals though.

 

The 08 runner truck with pick ups, mentioned up thread, that has moved on again, scraped the excess super glued in liquid lead out where the wheels go, so the wheels now fit in the chassis thankfully. Found an area in the centre of the chassis where some more liquid lead has been super glued in, to make up for what has been removed.

 

Also set up a little operating session on the layout, the first in ages, then this:

 

Got the met camm 2 car out and running it noticed the trailer car cab was damaged, then realised in a moment of horror what had happened. Two weeks ago at a 3mm East Mids area group meet, I was running stuff off my Crate Lane diorama on a test track. The met camm was  circulating, the trailer car derailed and fell on to the floor. At the time, had a quick look and it appeared ok.

 

Did not pick up the fact that there were two big cracks on the front end of the 3d print bodyshell, a bit of the solebar was chipped out and a white metal buffer was bent. Ooops.....🤔😢.

 

Got some super glue in the cracks from behind to stabilise the breakage, ready for cosmetic repairs. So this is also now back on the work bench, and its not even properly finished yet, still procrastinating over the massive hand cut flush glazing project for the body side windows.

 

Ho hum,

 

Cheers

 

D.