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Exhill Works and other adventures in 7/8ths


John Besley
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The entrance through the wall has now been fabricated from 18mm ply the lower section faced up in plaster and scribbled for brickwork, then the top section was covered in corrugated sheet.

 

This was made out of cut up bean tins that I heated up red hot and flattened to take the curve out of the section, these where then fixed in place with Stixall cartrage adhesive and painted up as a rusty old clad wall

 

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Edited by John Besley
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5 hours ago, CameronL said:

Bean tins? That definitely deserves a Blue Peter Award.

 

Yep recycling at it's best.. 

 

The next task is to build some interior detail for the building..... seeing as this is a cut through in the stud wall between the two sides of the workshop it's going to a bit like putting a ship in a bottle.

 

Watch this space 

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A Bit of luck came my way today, while on a fire alarm install I spotted a load of PU foam sheets that where being ripped out of a stud wall, three reasonable sized ones found there way into my van and came home with me :D

 

Bit of cutting about and the first bit of land form started to take place

 

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Found an old Triang Big Big train skip that looks right to have got dumped behind the shed on no man's land, the veiw through the doorway is a sneaky peek at the other section to be done once this part is finished

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I am proberly doing this all back to front, but couldn't resist the urge to spread some PVA over the foam and bed in some redundant out of date lint bandages followed by a bit if filler to see how it goes.

 

Really must get some track layed and wired .... 

 

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Edited by John Besley
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Started to run in the power to various termination points from the transformer 16v output, this will provide a supply for the hand held controller and a separate feed for auxillary to run the motor on the stationary boiler and lighting control.

 

Once I've got the rest of the cables in place will tidy up with cable ties 

 

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Sorted out parts required to improve the points so they power switch when operated along with the point motors, checked with Bekra Models and my track is in for collection on Saturday.

 

More things to think through on section switches etc. 

 

Cut out the facia cover strip's ready for staining a fadded wood finish

 

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Edited by John Besley
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The facia front is now full of holes to take the socket for the hand held controller,  main feed switches, section switches, point switches and motor / lighting controls...

 

1373889741_Baseboard(9).jpg.0e6a0e389391c7785907438bb5dd9d92.jpg

 

All of this will be covered by the facia capping once finished

 

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Edited by John Besley
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Well I picked up the track and set about laying it out, making sure that the baseboard join all the sections where cut through neatly.

 

Then I had to have a play to see if it was about right... Temporary wired up some mains through the Board.

 

So far all is good...

 

876342069_Yard(16).jpg.c88672b676c48dccee73d6abe9679847.jpg

 

The Baldwin is pulling out a rake of flat wagons from the Long Shop

 

396168616_Yard(18).jpg.9f6a1361d7a820034b77f825e6267d02.jpg

 

Then prepares to set them back into the siding 

 

Next off sort out the point motors rest of wiring etc... At this stage none of the track is fixed in place 

 

402206415_Yard(15).jpg.24ada871a5065830e7e2dcc941e4f055.jpg

 

By way of a contrast this is the deffernce between 7/8ths and 4mm 

 

Hopefully when all the above is done my desk can return to normal usage..

 

246200722_Yard(14).jpg.5d19510b687bb8e505903423d200cb76.jpg

Edited by John Besley
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On 19/12/2021 at 15:19, John Besley said:

The backscene is taking shape in stages...

On 19/12/2021 at 15:19, John Besley said:

The backscene is taking shape in stages.

 

Inspirational. I have a similar idea for my own layout, except in an urban environment. Wall instead of a fence. Painting the backscene might be a challenge. The hazy backscene on Leicester South and the 'block' colours on Copper wort have both been similarly inspiring. Great modelling! 

 

I wanted to bookmark the post quoted, but the option appears to have disappeared ?

Edited by Fishplate
Predictive text . Aaarrrrghhh. I wrote back scene as one word. This 'device' thought it more appropriate to swap to 'backsides' . . . .
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Many thanks for the comments Fishplate.

 

Best way to paint the backscene I found is to study how to paint landscapes, plenty of good YouTube videos out there.

 

Above all take your time to experiment on some MDF or something as a flat surface, I used matchpots from B&Q, The Range, Wilkes, etc... 

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One thing I am struggling to work out is do Peco's O-16.5 Electro Frog points need any extra wiring for long term reliable running I've looked up  various topics but can't seem to find a definitive answer to my conundrum... Anyone got any ideas?

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I am using Seep PM1 point motors so made up a couple of packing pieces to centre the point switch blades and a centering block for the PM1.

 

The point locations have been drilled and slotted with a bit in the Dremel and the area painted Matt black as I could see bare plywood grinning through the point 

 

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The CDU will be fitted under the baseboard and the PM1 switched by Gaugemaster GM510 toggle switches

Edited by John Besley
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Not a lot done this evening, apart from some head scratching, realised that I needed to do something about the path behind The Long Shop before this was screwed in place rendering the path in accessable

 

Made up some pockets for the fence posts to slip into then added some filler to the path and gave it some texture by pressing a Kitchen pan scourer pad into the filler

 

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Edited by John Besley
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Steady progress, fitted the section of track that will butt up to the Long Shop building; this had to be 100% true as there are no fishplates just jumper wires under the baseboard.

 

Wired up the PM1 point motors on the workbench and tested, fitted the two yard points off the main and fixed the PM1's in place.

 

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While I was thinking about it I wired up the plug sockets for the controller and pre wired a second socket for the extension at a later date.

 

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Gave the fascia a first cost of stain as I will need to fit these shortly so the switches can be installed

 

It's handy being able to wire this up with it on its end ...

Edited by John Besley
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Stained and fitted the facia panel so the rest of the wiring can be finished, wired up the main feed for one end of the yard. Reconfigured some of the cable I'd run in using multi core intruder cable stripping back the cores I didn't need.

 

This allowed me to staple the cable to the baseboard and use the out cover as a conduit for other cables thus cutting out on a spiders web of cable.

 

The points are now wired up on this board along with the CDU and momentary switches fitted - tested the install from a 16v output off an old H&M controller that dates back to mid 1960's.

 

There maybe a slight pause in work as I have traction engine parts to build for orders.. 

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For the moment I've completed the wiring on the first board, this has the socket for the controller and main power feeds to track.

 

1091070789_Wiring(8).jpg.87929b6e2bde9530bb4b6c591452874f.jpg

 

 

 

Still got a section switch to wire up once the track is laid, I have fixed in place a couple of short sections of track this evening ready to set up the Y point on the next board.

 

818201854_Wiring(6).jpg.607cf2221ead3bbd2228b286dae78593.jpg

 

 

By using multi strand intruder cable I've twisted the pairs to keep them tidy and used stripped back out cable sheath as conduit stapled to the base board.

 

So as to save confusion later I've also labeled the main feeds, tested all with a meter and happy the way it's going

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The wiring is about 95% done, had a bit of a nightmare wiring up the power controllers for the stationary engines motor etc. Managed to blow up two controllers .... More now on order... 

 

The two base boards are wired with links between as I learnt my lesson years ago when I came to dismantle a previous layout that I sold, in the process had to cut through scenery, track etc. ... None of the track joints have fishplates on them across the baseboard gap they do how ever line up accurately and all have link cables going across.

 

All track joins are soldered for connectivity and now works perfectly.

 

Control is through a second hand Hammet and Morgan Walkabout controller that I picked up from eBay seeing as they are no longer made (such a shame) I had to wait for one to come up, OK I may have paid a bit much for carriage but I wanted one...

 

Once I've got the wiring finished it's onto the scenery .... Then modify / sort out the rolling stock ...

 

188169979_Wiring(9).jpg.fc14791859e36bea271186288167f7a0.jpg

 

 

70596859_Wiring(10).jpg.a07b44103fa02a55a54197530d7273fe.jpg

 

Edited by John Besley
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On 12/03/2022 at 21:57, John Besley said:

The wiring is about 95% done, had a bit of a nightmare wiring up the power controllers for the stationary engines motor etc. Managed to blow up two controllers .... More now on order... 

 

The two base boards are wired with links between as I learnt my lesson years ago when I came to dismantle a previous layout that I sold, in the process had to cut through scenery, track etc. ... None of the track joints have fishplates on them across the baseboard gap they do how ever line up accurately and all have link cables going across.

 

All track joins are soldered for connectivity and now works perfectly.

 

Control is through a second hand Hammet and Morgan Walkabout controller that I picked up from eBay seeing as they are no longer made (such a shame) I had to wait for one to come up, OK I may have paid a bit much for carriage but I wanted one...

 

Once I've got the wiring finished it's onto the scenary .... Then modify / sort out the rolling stock ...

 

20220312_212017_HDR.jpg.e332c66d3e0f9b89ee87955c16e9872c.jpg

 

20220312_211957_HDR.jpg.b206e3b64b899473c660ff1df0279f8b.jpg


Very neat - almost as impressive (in its own way) as the wonderful modelling above the board.

 

Not wanting to be a spoilsport, but I’ve been advised to be careful using older controllers such as original H&M models, just in case any of the innards have degraded and the insulation is no longer safe.  Seems sensible advice so I hope it’s Ok to pass it on here, Keith.

Edited by Keith Addenbrooke
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1 hour ago, Keith Addenbrooke said:


Very neat - almost as impressive (in its own way) as the wonderful modelling above the board.

 

Not wanting to be a spoilsport, but I’ve been advised to be careful using older controllers such as original H&M models, just in case any of the innards have degraded and the insulation is no longer safe.  Seems sensible advice so I hope it’s Ok to pass it on here, Keith.

 

No problem, if only I could find a new walkaround controller... I had been using a 1960's H&M controller untill I got to the current stage -now that was old with a non BS plug, and cloth braided mains... 

 

Be interesting to know what age controllers your information was referring to. 

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33 minutes ago, John Besley said:

 

No problem, if only I could find a new walkaround controller... I had been using a 1960's H&M controller untill I got to the current stage -now that was old with a non BS plug, and cloth braided mains... 

 

Be interesting to know what age controllers your information was referring to. 


Thanks John.  My apologies if I’ve started a bit of ‘thread drift’ - the advice I was given was general, though the specific controller I had was a late 1970s H&M Powermaster for reference.  It had been in storage, so was going to go back into regular use for the first time in over 40 years when I started small-scale Narrow Gauge modelling this time last year.

 

I’m not an expert, but if I understood it correctly the possible issue is this: my H&M model was a combined transformer / 12v controller encased in one metal box.  It didn’t have an earth wire, but instead had ‘double insulation’ with an insulating layer (sometimes of paper) to keep the 240v electrics from touching the outside of the box.  If either the insulation or the cable sheathing has degraded or come loose inside the box over time there can therefore be an electrical risk.

 

For my purposes, the Gaugemaster Combi (with a modern-style wall-plug transformer) has proved to be a very good and affordable replacement and is ideally suited to my HO narrow gauge motors (Liliput / Kato N / Bemo - all DC).  Gaugemaster also do a walkabout version, the W, which I think has the same electrics inside but needs a separate transformer.

 

My Dad still happily uses his H&M Controllers, which are older than mine was.  His have been in regular use for years.  I was reluctant to part with the H&M Controller with its nice centre off ‘click’, but the Gaugemaster is fine for my small layout.  Keith.

 

 

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No worries Keith, the thread drift is all relevant, the H&M Walkabout controller is powered from a separate transformer supplying 16V AC in this instance I am using a brand new Gaugemaster Transformer the connection to the layout is 16VAC in and 12V DC out,  the cabling is 4 core in a flexible coiled wire so I expect it to be compliant with current Reg's

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