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Knightacott - 7mm newbie BLT


jamest
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Hi all,

 

Slow, but steady, progress recently - the office is about done apart from guttering - I have some Modelu stuff, which looks great - but I need some more bits I didn't order first time!

 

So brickwork all done:

 

IMG_20220701_152930.thumb.jpg.05260e7d7bfcad470262e697ad297a1e.jpg

 

IMG_20220701_152939.thumb.jpg.df0f9f1417af112b85e0296f92e497fa.jpg

 

Card tiling and wall capping applied:

 

IMG_20220702_191717.thumb.jpg.228cc54f99b8b92f123adbc2494c7160.jpg

 

Painted tiles and timber under roof done ready for said guttering:

 

IMG_20220711_205750.thumb.jpg.5bb66eb5e5a99d012003a0aa0524603c.jpg

 

IMG_20220711_205841.thumb.jpg.4482551ea450667d11d91ad9be86a544.jpg

 

IMG_20220711_205807.thumb.jpg.0e6f2d81e98d5d3c7adac15680f07116.jpg

 

I've also started to cover the platform surface with sandpaper ready for painting - no photos of that yet!

 

Regards,

James

 

 

Edited by jamest
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4 minutes ago, DLT said:

Looking very nice James.

I'm interested to see how you get on with the Modelu guttering, I've just started using it myself.

All the best,

Dave.T

Thanks David,

 

High praise indeed coming from you - I quizzed you a lot on your structures on Bridport at the SWAG do in Taunton.

 

I ordered guttering lengths, bends, wall brackets and down pipe ends but forgot end caps for the actual guttering and the transition piece from guttering to downpipe!

 

regards,

James

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi all,

 

Sorry for the lack of updates. I’ll get you up to speed over the next few days.

 

First of all here is the platform surface going down. I experimented with sprinkling talc on wet paint but I can never seem to get that right. I also used some fine road stone I’ve used in OO but that didn’t look right either. I decided on sticking down some medium abrasive paper (I don’t think sandpaper is the right term).

 

FEA44B91-4D43-43C4-AF7E-F433B891C9C3.jpeg.0ac7fc2faa31f6397a06d4e987d330b7.jpeg

 

E8CFA1FE-6325-4AA0-9185-1482393A78D6.jpeg.3764a82d2822d306c7e3e4bc80a8ba3b.jpeg

 

I then painted it with a mix of my white and black acrylics….

 

54CC72EA-A211-4D10-BBE5-2FE8F21415B8.jpeg.0f74535ef47e15586a6c83befbc14a66.jpeg

 

D7EF5675-39AD-4700-B63C-919236A38546.jpeg.ee9730c0e38d4dac1b673455431882bc.jpeg

 

1B7B988D-6DEC-4B2F-B75D-47429DF49E6B.jpeg.b8dfddd6d2a6fdc610aa9ee84e5250de.jpeg

 

More updates to follow on point rodding and fencing.

 

Regards,

James

 

 

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Hi, 

 

Here is update number 2 fencing and point rodding. 

 

I've used the peco spear fencing which is very good. 

IMG_20221001_132126.jpg.f1916ab372e11ce9f35d1fb44e95b5df.jpg

 

IMG_20221001_132118.jpg.51f2c72df2b75d9b8258038232e3b5ca.jpg

 

The stools, rodding and cranks are from MSE and are raised on cut up sleepers pre ballasting. The layout makes logical sense to me but I'm sure it's not 100% right. 

 

I've used plastic rodding under the track to avoid shorts. 

 

IMG_20220924_133449.jpg.b4f9cc65c908f51a55747f2b89df57f4.jpg

 

IMG_20220924_133442.jpg.f5041bfeddc282e143340d4600f13855.jpg

 

IMG_20220924_133435.jpg.44fbd02567dbff6ced566e925e333e14.jpg

 

IMG_20220924_133427.jpg.9985d5e9076b44aa0a329deb0a57c910.jpg

 

Regards, 

James

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I do like your point rodding James.  It is a job that is on my list but I've never done it before.  I have the bits from Hobby Holidays.

 

I see you haven't ballasted and I suppose there are schools of thought about whether to do it before or after.  My team says to do it afterwards.

 

John

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2 minutes ago, brossard said:

I do like your point rodding James.  It is a job that is on my list but I've never done it before.  I have the bits from Hobby Holidays.

 

I see you haven't ballasted and I suppose there are schools of thought about whether to do it before or after.  My team says to do it afterwards.

 

John

Hi John, 

 

I'm going to leave ballasting as long as possible this time. I've seen this done on other layouts and I'm interested to see how it goes. 

 

Like you, I like the Scalescenes downloads, which in my OO work has dictated when ballasting should occur as I tried not to mix card and water/glue. All my platform faces have been printed paper up to now. 

 

You really don't want to do point rodding in any scale after ballasting.... Unless you have to! 

 

Regards, 

James

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I can certainly understand wanting to leave ballasting as long as possible.  I've seen layouts where this has been rushed and later on track needed to be resited - a terrible mess.

 

I have some work to do on mine yet but the time for ballast is getting close - shudder!

 

John

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi all, 

 

Thanks very much for the likes and comments. 

 

To bring you up to speed..... I've added the lower fascia boards and added the basic landscape on the longer scenic board. 

 

First I finished off the internal walls on the bridge and added a basic road surface and wall capping. 

The capping is 2mm thick scribed card. The surface is attwood aggregates Road stone. 

 

IMG_20220831_144004.jpg.595e7c519dda0f96abeb6c59642d3136.jpg

 

IMG_20220831_144014.jpg.9b0d27ac9de8679d2df3370ec9c06c51.jpg

 

Here is the fascia added... 

IMG_20220929_191312.jpg.ade6e603eacf2047107731723a5fbfba.jpg

 

IMG_20220929_191353.jpg.ea7893b465c47ba34d35387dd5b58c70.jpg

 

I then added celotex layers glued together with a product called stixall. The rear one is still removable as one so I can carve it easily. 

 

IMG_20221001_132147.jpg.fca0da3b3e6049150e044aee4adee63c.jpg

 

IMG_20221001_132215.jpg.b78c7561a769ead7db1f14d6dd734755.jpg

 

I then carved the insulation when stuck. The rear one between the bridge and good shed at the rear looks a little odd at the moment. I will blend it better with greenery and trees. 

 

IMG_20221002_165202.jpg.65fdb734add837ce2f22933caec916c5.jpg

 

IMG_20221002_165215.jpg.8a3401e6b7a139f3b8a296db8a94888d.jpg

 

Regards, 

James

 

 

Edited by jamest
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On 02/10/2022 at 15:09, jamest said:

Hi, 

 

Here is update number 2 fencing and point rodding. 

 

I've used the peco spear fencing which is very good. 

IMG_20221001_132126.jpg.f1916ab372e11ce9f35d1fb44e95b5df.jpg

 

IMG_20221001_132118.jpg.51f2c72df2b75d9b8258038232e3b5ca.jpg

 

The stools, rodding and cranks are from MSE and are raised on cut up sleepers pre ballasting. The layout makes logical sense to me but I'm sure it's not 100% right. 

 

I've used plastic rodding under the track to avoid shorts. 

 

IMG_20220924_133449.jpg.b4f9cc65c908f51a55747f2b89df57f4.jpg

 

IMG_20220924_133442.jpg.f5041bfeddc282e143340d4600f13855.jpg

 

IMG_20220924_133435.jpg.44fbd02567dbff6ced566e925e333e14.jpg

 

IMG_20220924_133427.jpg.9985d5e9076b44aa0a329deb0a57c910.jpg

 

Regards, 

James

Hi James,full sized railways used concrete stools to mount the point rodding pedestals on,buried in the ballast.Point actuating cranks where mounted on  sleepers(or shortened sleepers) butted up at 90* to the running lines.Signal wires were run through small pulleys mounted on 2"x 2" angle,driven into the ground.I'll get some photos next time I'm at Chasewater ,

 

Phil

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1 hour ago, 34006 said:

Hi James,full sized railways used concrete stools to mount the point rodding pedestals on,buried in the ballast.Point actuating cranks where mounted on  sleepers(or shortened sleepers) butted up at 90* to the running lines.Signal wires were run through small pulleys mounted on 2"x 2" angle,driven into the ground.I'll get some photos next time I'm at Chasewater ,

 

Phil

Hi, 

 

I would really appreciate some views of signal wires, posts, chain as I haven't had much luck searching on the net. 

 

Perhaps I can paint my sleepers according to the info you share above (concrete or wood). 

 

Thanks

James 

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Hi James,here's a couple to be going on with.!st,a selection of rodding bearings,these sit on concrete stools,some of which are top right ,and a broken on in the centre of picture 2.Will take some more Sunday.

 

Regards

 

Phil

20201212_132026.jpg

20210404_143214.jpg

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On 05/10/2022 at 08:52, jamest said:

Hi, 

 

I would really appreciate some views of signal wires, posts, chain as I haven't had much luck searching on the net. 

 

Perhaps I can paint my sleepers according to the info you share above (concrete or wood). 

 

Thanks

James 

Does this help? I took it at Bodmin a couple of weeks ago. 

 

IMG_8711.jpeg.c8748ceaec4cf78613a30ab76cd1e105.jpeg

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Hi Kris,

 

It helps illustrate I am no-where near replicating it! 

 

Seriously it does help thanks - I can keep it for reference. I don't think I'll include a point lock on my points - but it is good to see it all in the flesh.

 

thanks,

James

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19 hours ago, Kris said:

Does this help? I took it at Bodmin a couple of weeks ago. 

 

IMG_8711.jpeg.c8748ceaec4cf78613a30ab76cd1e105.jpeg

 

Kris, that looks like a Facing Point Lock, something a yard wouldn't have.  Looks cool though.  Peco turnouts have a box over the tiebar which would represent the FPL cover.

 

John

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On 05/10/2022 at 20:42, 34006 said:

Hi James,here's a couple to be going on with.!st,a selection of rodding bearings,these sit on concrete stools,some of which are top right ,and a broken on in the centre of picture 2.Will take some more Sunday.

 

Regards

 

Phil

20201212_132026.jpg

20210404_143214.jpg

Heres a few more,from yesterday.

20221016_093751.jpg

20221016_093832.jpg

20221016_094029.jpg

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi Phil,

 

Thanks for taking the time to take those and share them.

 

They will be very helpful when it comes to painting…..and I haven’t found much on signal wiring, so that will be very useful too. It does look thin though, I might have to compromise on what I use for that.

 

I want to have two wires heading off scene under the bridge.

 

regards

James

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9 hours ago, jamest said:

one question….

 

I have zoomed in on here and it looks like a vertical L section with horizontal rollers attached?

 

20221016_093751.jpg.beea84255310c40d9f8b

It's actually 2" x 2" (or maybe 21/2 " x 21/2",I didn't measure it) angle,with a point at one end,hammered into the ballast.The pully blocks  are bolted on.For sharp curves,the pully block is mounted on a hinge,to stop the wire from riding up,coming out of the groove and reducing friction.A signal a long way off needs a good pull on the lever,points even more so!Sometimes an Advance Home or Distant could be a mile from the box.

Maybe you could use the finest fishing line to represent the wire? A small blob of superglue every so often should hold things in place.

 

Cheers

 

Phil

ps In some locations flat bar is used instead of angle,bridges,tunnels,platforms etc.

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