Knightacott - 7mm newbie BLT

[mudmagnet]

Looks smart James!

 

[jamest]

Hi all,

 

Thanks for all the likes.

 

On 23/03/2023 at 20:23, mudmagnet said:

Looks smart James!

 

Richard,

 

I’ve also painted and weathered your printed tank. I’ve moved the piping and hinted it goes underground and into the building.

 

 

I have also started with the ground forming at the far end of the station. First with some insulation cut down……then some brown scatter…..then the static grass. I put the scatter straight onto the insulation without using plaster bandage. I haven’t got a photo of that stage but I think it worked ok. In the last photo I am holding up the spear fencing in roughly the position along the front of the grass. There will be bushes, etc to visually break up the back scene join.

 

 

 

Cheers,

James

 

 

[Georgeham]

On 11/02/2023 at 08:50, jamest said:

Hi all,

 

Few more updates.

 

First the warehouse. I’ve tiled the roof and decided on corrugated sheet for the lower extension. I’ve painted it tamiya dark grey with the odd tile picked out in a darker and lighter mix with plain black or white mixed in. The corrugated surface is gun metal but will be covered in a grime wash. The slates will also receive a black wash and the fascia will be the same blue as the doors.

 

 

 

I also got organised and ordered my missing bits from modelu…the connection between guttering and downpipes. Here is the guttering attached with the Dow pipes offered up…I plan to paint them before fixing in place. I also need to bend the extension down pipe a bit to line up with its connector, as you can see. The actual guttering is a bit of a challenge as they come slightly bent in both directions. Understandable given the thinness of the section, but it means you have to carefully over bend it back nearly straight and then hold it down with masking tape while the adhesive dries. I used plain revel contacta and it worked fine.

 

 

 

I have also experimented on a wash for the track. I did a short test section and ballasted. I speed dried the pva flood in front of the wood burner….perhaps a bit too close if you look at the sleepers! But it serves a purpose and enabled me to get on with experimentation quickly.

 

In the picture below…..

the very left is as ballasted.

the left middle is my burnt umber wash.

the middle/middle right was a less diluted wash of the same colour which was too brown. This also has black/brown powder applied for dirtier areas. I also had a bit of a go with white powders on the sleepers extreme right….not sure about that.

 

it does not show up great in the photo but I like the middle section and will apply to the layout as a base soon.

 

 

I have also coated the rest of the yard with the fine pet sand shown in my previous update. This was spread with a sieve over a thin brushed layer of neat pva. In between the track on the sidings….I scraped the excess down to the sleeper tops (ish) while the mix was still a bit mushy and not dry. I liked the effect of mess and some sleeper tops showing. It has now fully cured and will also need toning down a bit.

 

 

 

Cheers

James

 

Hi James,

I think the warehouse building at the end of the track looks superb! May I ask - what roof tiles did you use for this - especially the ridge tiles?

I have used the fair price models kits as a basis for some of my buildings - you have done a fantastic job with these - I am hoping mine will look as good as yours!!

Chris

[jamest]

49 minutes ago, Georgeham said:

Hi James,

I think the warehouse building at the end of the track looks superb! May I ask - what roof tiles did you use for this - especially the ridge tiles?

I have used the fair price models kits as a basis for some of my buildings - you have done a fantastic job with these - I am hoping mine will look as good as yours!!

Chris

Hi Chris,

 

Thanks for that. The fair price kits are very good value for money as a basis for a building.

 

I simply used some thin card…..I draw out a grid (I’ll check the dimensions later) and cut it lengthways every other row so I have “double strips”. I then cut all the ‘columns’ on the bottom row to represent each tile leaving a complete strip along the top. I then draw lines on the roof for a guide and lay the first row at the bottom, working my way up staggering and overlapping. I cut some individual 1.5 width tiles for every other row at the ends. This roof was a bit easier in this respect as the left hand roof edge is not really visible and sits up against the inside of the fascia.

 

The ridge tiles are simply a long strip of the same card with very thin strips added in intervals as shown to represent joins.

 

I have looked at Scale Model Scenery A4 sheets as they do pre-coloured and weathered options. They look really good but there is something satisfying about doing it yourself though.

 

all the best,

 James 

[DLT]

Looking superb James, and I'm envious of the speed you work.

Will we see it at a show sometime?  Or at Taunton SWAG?

Many thanks,

Dave.

[jamest]

5 hours ago, DLT said:

Looking superb James, and I'm envious of the speed you work.

Will we see it at a show sometime?  Or at Taunton SWAG?

Many thanks,

Dave.

Hi David,

 

Thanks.

 

I do hope to exhibit it in the future, but I’ve not really “put it out there” yet!

 

Are you going to the SWAG do next month? I think a few of us from N.Devon are heading over.

 

Regards,

 James 

[jamest]

Hi all,

 

Next job is to finish off the goods shed.

 

I plan to have a sheltering canopy over the door opening. I saw something similar to this in a book and thought it would be an interesting addition….but might tip me towards a coupling method other than 3 links!

 

Here are the two basic components….

The roof, corrugated sheet on card:

 

 

The vertical frame made out of ‘I’ section with a clad section and fascia on the front.

 

 

This is the parts held up by gravity….I will add ‘white’ fascia boards on the sides under slope on the roof and guttering and down pipe on the front. I have cut into the first two rows of tiles on the main roof. The vertical section sits against the edge of the card underneath the corrugated sheets.

 

 

 

This is the result of a lot of measurements and head scratching, but it was worth the effort I think.

 

Cheers

James

[DLT]

That looks really good.  I like track disappearing under canopies and into buildings.

 

Cheers, Dave.

[jamest]

Hi,

 

Thanks Dave, and for the likes.

 

I have a few days off and I am running through my jobs, as the weather prevents me wasting time on jobs around the house!

 

I have added the guttering to the goods shed….it looks worse before painting….but guttering rarely looks dead straight right?

 

I don’t know if others have used the modelu guttering but I made it difficult for myself by fixing the building in place before adding it. Worse access is not helped by the inevitable ‘bow’ you get in the straight sections from the pack. That said I understand why this happens and it is not meant as a complaint. On the warehouse I bent it near straight and taped it down while the adhesive cured. In this case I tried to get it straighter but it had a tendency to break. So I remembered my small hot air gun I bought from Amazon and set it up on a low setting. It was then easier to hold the guttering near and move it when warm. It was much easier to add when straightened.

 

 

 

 

I have also separated the boards and added my first bushes against the back scene.

 

The two halves

 

 

 

And together….the patchy wall will be obscured by the shelter.

 

 

Cheers,

 James 

 

 

Edited April 5, 2023 by jamest

[jamest]

Hi all,

 

Had a good day in the shed yesterday in between cutting the grass.

 

I have adding guttering to the canopy, painted it, and fixed it in place. Due to a lack of planning on my part the signal box might have to move forward to the platform edge. I assume this is ok?

 

I also added a handle to the goods shed door and fixed it in place. I also need to replicate the hangings at some point.

 

 

 

 

 

regards

James

 

 

[jamest]

Hi all, 

 

Small update.... I've also built my intentio concrete waiting shelter.... And I think I prefer this to the pagoda one. So I'll put the pagoda to one side for future use! 

 

I need to add some guttering and glazing, but I'm happy with the weathered finish. I apply pva, sprinkle on fine ballast, paint with tamiya deck tan and weather with powders. 

 

 

 

Regards 

James

[BrushType4]

Nicely done James. 

[jamest]

Hi all,

 

Been a bit quiet but I’ve been making decent progress. I always find the weathering and ‘real life’ stuff challenging. I’ve had a few successes on my OO stuff but it always seemed a bit lucky with no real method learnt for next time!

 

O gauge has also been a new challenge on this front. I think some OO techniques and items that might be a bit over scale, transfer quite well to O gauge. You definitely have to think about what is visible at this scale though and the yard area and associated over grown nature has been difficult.

 

I started out with a bit of a ‘lawn’ between the head-shunt which looked bad. So I ripped it up and invested in a detailing static grass applicator from WWS and this has helped a lot. It enables me to do very small areas and patches well. I also applied brown powder first so that it blended well.

 

So here are the results in the yard….you’ll notice I’ve started to paint the buffer stops too.

 

You will see I have also grassed the small embankment this end and placed some fencing and platform lights.

 

 

I have made my Severn models benches and placed them roughly….I have ordered a station name board and will fix the benches when I finalise the sign position.

 

 

The other benches will be in front of the station…the building is glued down now.

 

 

I have also weathered the track, and I am really happy with this. I have some AK interactive track wash. It is for tank tracks but is a nice dirty wash. I brushed it on in the middle of the track and faded it out on the outside of the track. I then brushed on a black/brown powder mix around and under the rails. I used a make up brush to even it out and blend it. It was then all sealed with Matt varnish in a can.

 

 

 

 

I haves tried to make the heads hunt dirtier to represent an area where locos sit.

 

 

I also have some other scenic updates and overall pictures to follow in part 2 later!

 

regards

James

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited May 26, 2023 by jamest

[mudmagnet]

Looking excellent James!

 

I've got some station barrows and luggage that would look good on the platform!

 

Glad that the WWS static grass tool is working well, a good purchase then!

 

 

[jamest]

Hi Richard,

 

Thanks.

 

Yes, I will need some of your luggage and barrows.

 

I need to add some of those outside taps you let me have on the warehouse.

 

Regards

James

[jamest]

Hi all,

 

Thanks for the likes.

 

I just had an email saying my nameplates are on the way so we will have a name for the layout soon!

 

Here are some overall shots

 

 

 

I have also filled in with some bushes on the embankments around the bridge. There will be a fence along the top of the front one….you can sort of see the line in the grass.

 

 

 

Regards,

 James 

 

 

 

[Adrian Stevenson]

Looking really good 👍 

[jamest]

Hi all,

 

Been quiet for a while as other things take up my time....but I do have my name plates from Model Railway Scenes and some other detailing stuff from Scale Model Scenery.

 

First of all the name will be Knightacott.

 

I have the SMS sticky signal box sign:

 

And here is a painted platform sign from MRS:

 

Question - should I put it in a raised bed of plants? Or leave it straight onto the platform surface?

 

 

And a first pic of the wire fence from SMS.... The bright wire needs toning down. ...and I need to make all the posts vertical!

 

 

regards,

James

Edited July 12, 2023 by jamest

[brossard]

You have done some amazing work here James.  You mention Fair Price Models building kits but the range is pretty limited.

 

I decided to use a mix of Scalescenes and Lcut for my buildings.  I blow up the Scalescenes prints by 175%.  For the Lcut, because I don't like how the bricks are rendered, I have faced them with Scalescenes brick and used other elements, like roof, in their construction.

 

Both Scalescenes and Lcut have very wide ranges of buildings, one of the reasons I chose them.

 

I do wonder whether I should go with embossed brick for my next layout - hmmm.

 

John

[sb67]

Fantastic work James, the layout is looking superb! 👍

[DLT]

Looking superb James, beautifully done.

I'm not sure about the position of the signalbox at the platform edge though.  It would be better at the rear of the platform where it was, but moved away from the goods shed.   Or possibly even at the foot of the ramp, where the hut is?  But that would mess up your rodding though, so I'm not sure.  Alternatively, replace it with a smaller structure, or an open ground-frame?

Or just ignore me.....

 

Dave.

[jamest]

16 hours ago, DLT said:

Looking superb James, beautifully done.

I'm not sure about the position of the signalbox at the platform edge though.  It would be better at the rear of the platform where it was, but moved away from the goods shed.   Or possibly even at the foot of the ramp, where the hut is?  But that would mess up your rodding though, so I'm not sure.  Alternatively, replace it with a smaller structure, or an open ground-frame?

Or just ignore me.....

 

Dave.

 

Hi Dave,

 

I would never ignore good advice!

 

But.....I have painted myself into a corner a bit here. I decided on the location of the signal box before assessing what my goods shed looked like - and certainly before I decided to put the lean to shelter on it!

 

I will re-visit moving it back a little to provide more space in front, or look at other smaller options in the same-ish place, but I might be forced to leave it as is.

 

Would a lineside one like below perceivably appear on a platform?

 

 

The thought of moving the point rodding breaks me out in a cold sweat! but its not impossible.

 

This exposes one of my weaknesses - knowledge of the real railway - I try to look at real images but often find myself influenced by other models. Oh and the other weakness - bad planning! 😆

 

I appreciate the feedback though - thanks.

 

Regards,

James

Edited July 13, 2023 by jamest

[jamest]

20 hours ago, brossard said:

You have done some amazing work here James.  You mention Fair Price Models building kits but the range is pretty limited.

 

I decided to use a mix of Scalescenes and Lcut for my buildings.  I blow up the Scalescenes prints by 175%.  For the Lcut, because I don't like how the bricks are rendered, I have faced them with Scalescenes brick and used other elements, like roof, in their construction.

 

Both Scalescenes and Lcut have very wide ranges of buildings, one of the reasons I chose them.

 

I do wonder whether I should go with embossed brick for my next layout - hmmm.

 

John

 

Hi John,

 

I've used scalescenes a lot in OO and N - but I've made a conscious effort to use embossed sheet and force myself to paint and weather in O gauge. Not because the effect can't be great with scalescenes - I've seen your layout and the structures look great - but because I want to try new skills.

 

I'd urge anyone to give it a go - whats the worst that can happen?!

 

Cheers,

James

[brossard]

Thanks for the kind words James.  Your efforts have paid off I think.  In 00 I built a number of structures (Wills Craftsman for example) using embossed card and my painting results were not bad.  I was always inspired by the late great Rice and tried to use his brick painting method.

 

It's one of those decisions you make when starting out because I think consistency is important in buildings.

 

John

[DLT]

11 hours ago, jamest said:

 

Hi Dave,

 

I would never ignore good advice!

 

But.....I have painted myself into a corner a bit here. I decided on the location of the signal box before assessing what my goods shed looked like - and certainly before I decided to put the lean to shelter on it!

 

I will re-visit moving it back a little to provide more space in front, or look at other smaller options in the same-ish place, but I might be forced to leave it as is.

 

Would a lineside one like below perceivably appear on a platform?

 

 

The thought of moving the point rodding breaks me out in a cold sweat! but its not impossible.

 

This exposes one of my weaknesses - knowledge of the real railway - I try to look at real images but often find myself influenced by other models. Oh and the other weakness - bad planning! 😆

 

I appreciate the feedback though - thanks.

 

Regards,

James

 

Hi James, 

The Staverton box would look better I think.  It looks narrower and had less roof overhang so would probably "fit" back in front of the goods shed better.

The forward position at the platform edge would not be allowed, it would be a serious obstruction on passenger safety grounds.

An open lever-frame would look good in that location; not everywhere had a fully-fledged signalbox.

BUT there are folks on this forum with FAR greater signalling knowledge than me....

Also, you can always apply Rule 1.