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Shed Roof Insulation


Nick C
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I managed to get the EPDM installed during my lunchbreak today (well, spread it out during a morning break, glued down at lunch, and finished off after work)

 

Just got the trimming and the end wall to do now.

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End wall sanded, treated and painted over the weekend.

 

I've got the battens for the roof edge trims all treated and painted ready for fitting, however I'm wondering the best way to do so for the drip edges - trim under the lip, trim on the edge, or both?

 

roof_edges.png.e1afa62c828b25f7d1152815eeaaae24.png

The original felt was like the last image, with the battens screwed in from underneath, and a trim piece screwed to them. This resulted in a mucky mix of water, dirt and pine needles from a neighbour's tree filling the gap beteween the trim and the felt, so I'd been thinking of going for the first option instead, avoiding creating a muck trap.

 

Most of the EPDM pictures I can see on the net look like the second one, but wouldn't that invite water to get between the trim and the EPDM, and then wick in through the screw holes? 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Nick C said:

End wall sanded, treated and painted over the weekend.

 

I've got the battens for the roof edge trims all treated and painted ready for fitting, however I'm wondering the best way to do so for the drip edges - trim under the lip, trim on the edge, or both?

 

roof_edges.png.e1afa62c828b25f7d1152815eeaaae24.png

The original felt was like the last image, with the battens screwed in from underneath, and a trim piece screwed to them. This resulted in a mucky mix of water, dirt and pine needles from a neighbour's tree filling the gap beteween the trim and the felt, so I'd been thinking of going for the first option instead, avoiding creating a muck trap.

 

Most of the EPDM pictures I can see on the net look like the second one, but wouldn't that invite water to get between the trim and the EPDM, and then wick in through the screw holes? 

 

 

Hi, The EPDM kit I used has an L profile shape edging trim with a rubber/foam sealing strip that keeps the water out (see diagram below). You nail through the trim with special nails that have a cap on to keep the water out.

EPMD.jpg.2788d74b134c2678e0d6be0eb16a2ed9.jpg

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On 02/03/2021 at 12:09, 37114 said:

Hi, The EPDM kit I used has an L profile shape edging trim with a rubber/foam sealing strip that keeps the water out (see diagram below). You nail through the trim with special nails that have a cap on to keep the water out.

EPMD.jpg.2788d74b134c2678e0d6be0eb16a2ed9.jpg

Yeah, that's what the proper kits had - this one doesn't as it's for a shed roof rather than a full kit. Also those are designed to fit onto a proper fasica, which I don't have here - there's a signficant overhang which is just the thickness of the roof (which is now ~80mm with the insulation and OSB)

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24 minutes ago, Nick C said:

Yeah, that's what the one I used for the kitchen roof had - this one doesn't as it's for a shed roof rather than a full kit. Also those are designed to fit onto a proper fasica, which I don't have here - there's a signficant overhang which is just the thickness of the roof (which is now ~80mm with the insulation and OSB)

Hi, I am struggling to picture it in my mind, any chance of a photo?

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I have small diameter guttering on my conservatory - I don't recommend it, as it quickly clogs up with leaves in autumn, but I suppose it depends on your environs.

 

I do however endorse EPDM for roof, I have used it successfully on a 10 x 8 garden shed with sloping roof and on a flat roof on a much larger 28' x 10' single-storey extension.  It was dead easy to install on the former.  On the latter, the sheer size made it difficult to manhandle into place, but it's been fine for a good many years since the original bitumen felt had to be replaced as it invariably does after a decade or so.  It's the long life of this stuff that I favour - I'm not getting any younger and one shouldn't be climbing on rooves in extreme old age!

 

As mentioned by 37114, these people supplied good product at a good price  https://www.rubber4roofs.co.uk/ 

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On 02/03/2021 at 13:45, 37114 said:

Hi, I am struggling to picture it in my mind, any chance of a photo?

 

See below - I've added a batten in the underside position (i.e. my first sketch) on the basis that that is the easiest to change if I need to, wheras making holes in the edge is irreversible - at least this means there is some mechanical fixing in case we get high winds. I'll trim the edges back later.

 

The sloping ends will have bargeboards fitted, but the original ones are now too shallow for the thicker roof, and Wickes were out of suitable sized timber on Sunday to make new ones.

 

IMG_20210302_155952421_HDR.jpg.1a5c480b3bf0b920494afc8364b31627.jpg

 

On 02/03/2021 at 14:52, Michael Hodgson said:

I have small diameter guttering on my conservatory - I don't recommend it, as it quickly clogs up with leaves in autumn, but I suppose it depends on your environs.

 

I do however endorse EPDM for roof, I have used it successfully on a 10 x 8 garden shed with sloping roof and on a flat roof on a much larger 28' x 10' single-storey extension.  It was dead easy to install on the former.  On the latter, the sheer size made it difficult to manhandle into place, but it's been fine for a good many years since the original bitumen felt had to be replaced as it invariably does after a decade or so.  It's the long life of this stuff that I favour - I'm not getting any younger and one shouldn't be climbing on rooves in extreme old age!

 

As mentioned by 37114, these people supplied good product at a good price  https://www.rubber4roofs.co.uk/ 

 

I've got some spare full-sized guttering anyway, so that'll be used along the back - we have a big problem with leaves as the tree you can see in the background of the above photo drops a lot of them! I'll be triyng to fit some kind of leaf guard to the guttering to keep it clear, luckily the back is just about reachable from ground level so easier to sweep out.

 

Yes, I'd recommend it too - the only difficult bit is getting it up there in the first place, especially if you're not very strong (as I'm not). 

Edited by Nick C
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3 hours ago, Nick C said:

 

See below - I've added a batten in the underside position (i.e. my first sketch) on the basis that that is the easiest to change if I need to, wheras making holes in the edge is irreversible - at least this means there is some mechanical fixing in case we get high winds. I'll trim the edges back later.

 

The sloping ends will have bargeboards fitted, but the original ones are now too shallow for the thicker roof, and Wickes were out of suitable sized timber on Sunday to make new ones.

 

IMG_20210302_155952421_HDR.jpg.1a5c480b3bf0b920494afc8364b31627.jpg

 

 

I've got some spare full-sized guttering anyway, so that'll be used along the back - we have a big problem with leaves as the tree you can see in the background of the above photo drops a lot of them! I'll be triyng to fit some kind of leaf guard to the guttering to keep it clear, luckily the back is just about reachable from ground level so easier to sweep out.

 

This is my second EPDM install, and yes, I'd recommend it too - the only difficult bit is getting it up there in the first place, especially if you're not very strong (as I'm not). 

I think the approach you have done so far in terms of clamping it underneath is probably the best option, having seen the photo.

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