Triang R.357

[Office layout]

I've been servicing a Triang R.357 Diesel loco that I recently came into possession of.  From barely running, I've got it whizzing around the track and purring like a kitten - a good clean inc the commutator and new brushes has worked wonders.   Using the service sheet as a guide has made things very simple, but I've noticed my loco has two missing elements - the S5230 capacitor which should bridge the two collectors, and the weights over the non powered bogie.

 

So my question is whether it is necessary to have a capacitor fitted (the motor is running really well without) and whether there is anything to gain from adding weight to the non powered bogie?

 

 

 

 

[33C]

Personally, I leave them off as they are, I've been told, for TV suppression for sets of the time. And as for weights, if you need more traction to pull longer trains, go ahead. 

[bigherb]

The capacitor as well as stopping interference, also helps stop sparking of the brushes and burning the commutator. The weight just helps the non powered bogie stay on the track.

[andyman7]

I'd agree, the capacitor certainly won't stop it working (in my experience many of the 50 or so year old locos still in service using this motor bogie have lost the capacitor at some point as the solder joints have failed). But it does reduce sparking and so adding it is useful. As for the weight - well on steel track the Magnadhesion magnets (S5447) will literally glue the driving wheels to the track but if you are using modern nickel silver track you will need to ensure a weighted chassis. The original weights over the trailing bogie are barely adequate for this, and more weight will help.

[DCB]

I always fit a capacitor. It seems to cut down arcing between brushes and commutator and makes the motor run more smoothly.  Especially a tired motor with worn brushes and weak magnets.   A Capacitor interferes with DCC signals, so bin them if using DCC.   5 pole armatures help these power bogies.  The K's Mk1 and maybe Mk2 motors armatures fit these Triang power bogies as long as you position the worms accurately.     They also fit Hymek and Dock shunter/Transcon bogies but these need very careful adjustment of the shaft length.    Worn plastic armature bearings causing the worms to slip on and wear away the plastic axle gears often causes the demise of these bogies.

As does the baseplate which breaks up when contaminated with some plastics, as does the top casing which holds the brushes and pickups. Added to that the dummy centre wheels look B awful.   I sold mine. on eBay, quickly before it packed up.

[Office layout]

Appreciate all the responses - it certainly was a bit sparky when running so for the sake of £1 or so, it's no hardship to solder one on.

[RailandyOz]

What size capacitor should it be, when the original is missing?

[bigherb]

4 hours ago, RailandyOz said:

What size capacitor should it be, when the original is missing?

I use 470pf capacitors.

[kevinlms]

On 13/01/2022 at 07:32, andyman7 said:

 As for the weight - well on steel track the Magnadhesion magnets (S5447) will literally glue the driving wheels to the track but if you are using modern nickel silver track you will need to ensure a weighted chassis. The original weights over the trailing bogie are barely adequate for this, and more weight will help.

If you want/need additional weight for traction purposes, you need to ensure that more weight is put on the power bogie end of the loco. Otherwise for any weight over the trailing bogie, that just increases the amount that you have to haul and LESS available for traction.