Soldering advice needed

[Crepello]

I haven't been too successful recently with soldering wires to nickel-silver rails. I've used a Chinese jelly flux and lead-free solder with my 25W iron. I found it easier previously using an acid-type liquid flux which unfortunately caused corrosion of tag-strip terminals. Can anyone help with the ideal materials for this job.

[AndrueC]

For me the key to soldering (at least where track/droppers were concerned) was to roughen up the track with some abrasive paper and to ensure that iron is about as hot as it will go. I don't claim to be an expert but droppers stay soldered and conduct electricity so I must be doing something right. I use a cheap iron bought online along with cheap solder bought online. Only thing I'd change about the equipment is the iron which has a very small, easily knocked thermostat.

 

My technique for what it's worth:

1. Cut wire to length, remove insulation (I use suitcase connectors so only need to remove it from one end).
2. Roughen track with abrasive paper.
3. Tin the wire.
4. Tin the track.
5. Introduce wire to track.
6. Push wire against track with iron until you feel the solder melt.
7. Blow on the joint.
8. Withdraw the iron.

 

One thing I don't do is feed the dropper through the hole first. I found that too restrictive. I solder the wire on then stick the dropper down the hole. I've found this technique to be reliable and have gone from someone who approached soldering with trepidation to someone who's been known to spend an hour adding droppers simply because it was relaxing and fun. I find it to be one of those tasks that allows me to zone out. It's almost like a form of meditation

[brossard]

42 minutes ago, Crepello said:

I haven't been too successful recently with soldering wires to nickel-silver rails. I've used a Chinese jelly flux and lead-free solder with my 25W iron. I found it easier previously using an acid-type liquid flux which unfortunately caused corrosion of tag-strip terminals. Can anyone help with the ideal materials for this job.

 

Your problem could be the use of lead free solder.  I have used it and find it horrible.  Try to get some 60/40 Lead/Tin solder (or 188C solder).  This flows very nicely and I use it a lot (along with 145C solder).  188C and 145C solders can be obtained from Gaugemaster.

 

For electrical wiring cored solder is commonly used.

 

Can't speak to the flux you are using but I use Rosin flux (the stuff in the core of cored solder).

 

My go to iron of late is 25W so you are probably OK there.  The tip must be kept clean/shiny for best performance.  I use brass wool to keep mine clean.

 

You want to tin the wire end and the rail first. 

 

John

[ROSSPOP]

Hi Crepello

 

I agree with JOhn above about getting 60/40 Lead /Tin solder... I use it for everything these days as it will flow providing you have a potent flux.

 

I assume you are in 4mm hence the 25watt iron.

 

In my opinion `taint nowhere near hot enough. In my 4mm modelling days I used 40watt and 60 watt irons.

 

 

So with a 40 watt iron and track making it will give plenty of heat which is what you need.

 

If you are soldering dropper wires to rail attached to plastic chairs get some of these clips to act as heat sinks either side of where you are soldering.

 

 

Next you need a potent liquid flux I used Carrs green label but nowadays I`ve gone back to Bakers Fluid_....why  ?  its a stronger acid and will clean what you intend to solder and enable the solder to flow BUT YOU MUST WASH OFF THE FLUX RESIDUE WHEN YOU HAVE FINISHED THE TASK. This is true for nearly all fluxes or you will have corrosion problems if you don`t bother. Plenty of heat allows you to be quick `in and out` when soldering dropper wires and an acid flux will clean the rail quickly making the solder flow, plus you don`t need to faff around cleaning the rail sides

, or pre- tinning everything.

 

 

So:-

Plenty of heat.( At least 40watt)

Decent flux

Decent solder Lead /tin 60/40

A heat sink if near plastic chairs.

Cleanliness is next to Godliness with soldering projects.

 

Now I`m an old codger I`m cooking soldering on gas, with all my 7mm soldering tasks and have changed over to gas soldering irons... 70watt and 90watt though.

 

 

These give a lot more freedom and once you`ve got used to soldering techniques will do a great job even with track building.

 

[Siberian Snooper]

When I do soldering,  I tin both surfaces first and then a quick in and out with the iron. The most important thing is to make sure that all the surfaces are clean and the iron hot.

 

 

[Teabag]

For me joining Peco code 75 to tinned copper droppers, 60:40 multicore solder (already has flux in it).  Tin both the track and the wire and then bring the two together and use the iron to re-melt (per the advice above).  Perfect joint everytime.