Hachette Flying Scotsman

[Ade01]

Thanks mate I will give it a go 

[JeffP]

I'd never use self tappers in anything that might need to be removed, replaced, removed, etc.

8BA screws.

An 8BA tap is a good investment.

[Ade01]

Hi guys, some help would be much appreciated. I'm in the middle of fitting the valve gear, i've fitted the return crank at 15 degrees forward of the centre line of the wheel as instructed but when set at that its very loose on the Crank pin, not sure if that's normal and secondly when the loco is moving should the return Crank go all the way round or just backwards and forwards? This is my first kit build and its far from straight forward lol. Thanks Ade

[doilum]

The return crank needs to be fixed in that position. This is easier said than done and different modellers will have their own solutions which are based on soldering the crank to a nut in such a way that it ends up in the correct position. The nut can finally be secured with loctite.

Like several others I tend to convert Slater's type wheels to 10 ba. crankpins. The bushes are tapped 10ba. and act as nuts with a small washer to space the rods off the wheel. The return crank can then be soldered to the threaded bush in situ. 

The problem with the Hachette instructions is that originally they intended this as a static model and then kept having to improvise as customers clearly expected a working locomotive.

I should have added that unless you have resolved the issue of loose fitting drivers wheels the whole exercise is academic.

Edited April 27, 2021 by doilum

[Ade01]

Thanks for your help. As this is purely a static model I will find a way around the problem. I just wanted the valve gear to work properly.