CUTTING TRACK OVER LIFTING FLAP.

[melvin]

My problem was getting the geometry right of track over the hinge side of my access lifting flap.

And its on a curve.

First attempt using two pieces of track didn't work.

So using a new length of flexi I got it set right and pinned in place.

I need to cut across this join without lifting the track to do it otherwise i will be back where I started.

I have a vertical track cutter not sure that will do it. I have dremel. I dont think I could use a razor saw, no room. Any ideas any one.

[cctransuk]

1 minute ago, melvin said:

My problem was getting the geometry right of track over the hinge side of my access lifting flap.

And its on a curve.

First attempt using two pieces of track didn't work.

So using a new length of flexi I got it set right and pinned in place.

I need to cut across this join without lifting the track to do it otherwise i will be back where I started.

I have a vertical track cutter not sure that will do it. I have dremel. I dont think I could use a razor saw, no room. Any ideas any one.

 

1] Lay and pin down track.

 

2] Drive in brass panel pins, hard up against the outside of each rail, on each side of the cut line.

 

3] Solder rails to panel pins.

 

4] Whilst supporting rails with a track laying gauge, cut through rails and sleepers with the thinnest cutting disc available, mounted in a mini-drill.

 

This worked for me, and I have ten autonomous hinged baseboards, each with multiple oblique cuts in curved track.

 

The important point is that the cutting discs must be thin; have plenty spares, they shatter easily!

 

Do NOT use any form of saw - the teeth will snag on the rail and bend it.

 

CJI.

[Harlequin]

Use a diamond slitting disc with one of these in your Dremel:

https://www.dremel.com/gb/en/p/dremel-right-angle-attachment-575-v224

 

[Stephen Freeman]

Make sure the rail is cut at 90 degrees.

[cctransuk]

1 hour ago, Stephen Freeman said:

Make sure the rail is cut at 90 degrees.

 

Why? I have cut numerous rails obliquely along the hinge line. The oblique overlapping rail ends smooth the passage of wheels.

 

CJI.

[Wheatley]

Wear eye protection, you will shatter a cutting disc at some point. 

[NinOz]

On 28/11/2022 at 03:47, cctransuk said:

 

Why? I have cut numerous rails obliquely along the hinge line. The oblique overlapping rail ends smooth the passage of wheels.

 

CJI.

Ensure lifting rail is on the top of an angled cut.😀

[NinOz]

On 28/11/2022 at 03:59, Wheatley said:

Wear eye protection, you will shatter a cutting disc at some point. 

If using an abrasive disc, reinforce the disc with some superglue.

[johndon]

On 27/11/2022 at 16:18, cctransuk said:

 

Do NOT use any form of saw - the teeth will snag on the rail and bend it.

I’ve used a razor saw to cut the rail (code 75) on all of my board joins and not had it snag once, for me, you get a much better cut than with a slitting disk. 
 

Each to his own of course… 

[Bittern]

The trick is that the teeth need to be fine enough that pitch is less than the minimum rail web thickness, and not to push down too hard.

 

A slitting disk is generally quicker, especially if you use one that's big enough to hold at right angles to the rail, but sometimes a saw is the best tool for the  job, and I find it easier to get a clean, burr-free, cut  with a saw.

[Michael Hodgson]

If it's a hinged lifting flap, the centre line of the hinges should be above the top of the rails.

[DCB]

Half the battle is getting the flap to land in the same place every time.  My latest version following some warping of the shed due to settlement etc has discarded proprietary  hinges completely in favour of a Ford Focus car bonnet hinge one side which has minimal sideplay, and a ball race in a piece of 12mm ply the other,(see pic, I'm already regretting that big solid block, it was to b a building but now I wish it wasn't there.   It all moves extremely easily and bangs down nicely on a piece of 2X1" at the far side with no packing,   With door hinges the hinges flexed as they were no exactly in line and caused real problems until first one went in favour of the Focus hinge and now the second has also gone My baseboard sides project above the baseboard surface and the lower flap must be 18" wide with at least 7 tracks crossing the hinge end of the flap.  Worst bit is lining up and soldering track I can't really see and trying to solder to poor quality new brass screws.  Use some old ones if you have solder to screws.  Its worth remembering that in the real world nickle silver expands at least four times as much as it does in the text books so if laying in December leave generous gaps.  I fix the rail ends and use shorter rail lengths than normal on the flap so I can use extra fishplates with extra gaps to take up expansion.  

Edited December 16, 2022 by DCB

[Middlesea John]

I'm building a layout with a flap.  I'd really appreciate it if someone could do a diagram of the angles I need to cut the track on both the hinge side and the "landing area".  My O Level maths has failed me I'm afraid.

 

Thanks - John

[unravelled]

I have successfully cut the joins with an xacto type saw blade, but this was with the track soldered too pcb either side of the cut line, so firmly held. The ends were cut at an angle to help clearances.

There has been at least one other thread on here but images may have been lost.

Early in my "wylde" thread, (link in sig), I described my build of an off-scenelifting flap. I used furniture connectors to help aignment. One thing I did was to provide separate adjustments for level and side to side alighment, wood swells throwing things off, so some adjustment is essential.

If you want a scenic lifting board, some company produces sections of sleeper base in pcb which interlock across a Join, and which the rail can be soldered to, providing a better looking result. I will try to look out the name later.

 Edit: the sleeper pcb is Modeltech ProTrack rail aligner from www.modeltech.uk, available in several types

 

Dave

 

Edited April 15, 2023 by unravelled

[melmerby]

On 09/12/2022 at 11:22, Michael Hodgson said:

If it's a hinged lifting flap, the centre line of the hinges should be above the top of the rails.

Depends on the type of hinges

I have a couple of lifting sections where the hinge is under the lifting section.

It works fine if you use a specific type of hinge.

[5BarVT]

11 hours ago, Middlesea John said:

I'm building a layout with a flap.  I'd really appreciate it if someone could do a diagram of the angles I need to cut the track on both the hinge side and the "landing area".  My O Level maths has failed me I'm afraid.

 

Thanks - John

From my experience, the rails aren’t the problem. The saw thickness should  give the required clearance, and if it doesn’t, attention with a file will sort it.  Do remember (experience talking here!) not to cut on the inside of the join on the lifting side of the flap  - my board has the scars from the overhanging rails on the fixed side.  Hinge side is easy as the rails are moving apart.  Important thing there is that the centre of the hinge pin is above rail height.

Where you do need the sums is on the framework of the flap.  Theoretically the edge of the board needs to be an arc centred on the hinge.    In practice that means the diagonal from the hinge at the top to the base at the lifting side is the length of the flap, less a bit to take account of the hinge centre being slightly raised. I think I took off an extra 5-10mm.  Then just a straight line from there to the top of the board is a safe side cut.

 

Two photos from my postings that show my lifting flap, apologies that they are not the clearest.

The side hidden by the drill is angled back for clearance, the other side doesn’t need to be.  You can just make out the difference (sorry the drill is in the way!).

 

And from below, the bottom is the vertical edge and the top angled in.

Hopefully that gives you the concept.

Paul.

 

 

 

 

 

[DCB]

On 15/04/2023 at 09:33, melmerby said:

Depends on the type of hinges

I have a couple of lifting sections where the hinge is under the lifting section.

It works fine if you use a specific type of hinge.

How exactly does that work.  One of mine, a double track plate girder bridge, has the pivot below rail level back a few inches  from the end of the lifting deck, The first few inches of the "Bridge Deck"  does not lift so the tracks clear (See drawing) and another a hinge one side and a hole in the framing and a ball bearing from a photocopier the other but a hinge underneath a plain straight forward lift deck is intriguing .   Pray do share.

Edited April 17, 2023 by DCB

[melmerby]

6 hours ago, DCB said:

How exactly does that work

Cupboard door hinges:

https://www.diy.com/departments/b-q-nickel-plated-metal-sprung-concealed-hinge-l-35mm-pack-of-6/254529_BQ.prd

 

Look at your fitted kitchen cabinets and see how the hinged end lifts away.

I've got two lifting sections using these:

EDIT

They only open 110 degrees so stay up nicely.

Edited April 17, 2023 by melmerby

[5BarVT]

Thank you for the incidental photo of your monitor support.  Something of that nature will be needed for Heath Town in the fullness of time.

Paul.