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Caia Road Goods Station, Wrexham


westernviscount
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It's all looking great, including the buffer stops! Maximum respect for having incorporated the SMP sleepers.

 

I decided to use copper-clad sleepers when I built some, and then glued on cosmetic chairs from C&L.

20190321_160251.jpg.ad9c97df2e96ce46d275f77680ac57ba.jpg

 

Obviously, I had to ensure that the whitemetal rails didn't touch the actual running rails...!

 

 

 

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16 minutes ago, Captain Kernow said:

It's all looking great, including the buffer stops! Maximum respect for having incorporated the SMP sleepers.

 

I decided to use copper-clad sleepers when I built some, and then glued on cosmetic chairs from C&L.

20190321_160251.jpg.ad9c97df2e96ce46d275f77680ac57ba.jpg

 

Obviously, I had to ensure that the whitemetal rails didn't touch the actual running rails...!

 

 

 

Thanks Captain. As soon as I thread a couple of the SMP sleepers on I realised it would be very time consuming to adapt the others. Obviously the rail sits above the sleeper so there was much fiddling about. 

 

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20240215_214046.jpg.47e1efe5c44f98421d6db61b23afb130.jpg

I have laid the remaining sections of the sidings including the buffer stops. 

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Based in the ordnance survey map the sidings were staggered as I have tried to recreate. It makes it visually more interesting this way. 

20240215_214058.jpg.bed80999a1cd69cc310c92e7b18dd9c0.jpg

Hopefully I can solve my CDU seep point motor problems and crack on with painting track and ballasting. 

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And a quick stock update...

20240215_135534.jpg.ee85a390685226c736dc7a56dcc961e8.jpg

I have scratchbuilt some autogear for the Bachmann autocoach. 

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Built from plastikard with dimensions taken from the MJT kit on my airfix 

20240215_115325.jpg.8779b1e4fede5543bfa6ab589b3aff89.jpg

Rods made from .45mm brass and the screw of the handbrake made from guitar wire. 

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Primed.

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Sprayed black and fitted to the underframe. 

Edited by westernviscount
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  • 4 weeks later...

As is the nature of trackwork and lectrics most of the work does not affect the look of the layout and it can appear that very little has been achieved. 

20240307_214751.jpg.19841019ce76a51da420babdbc6ff670.jpg

The scenic section of the layout depicting the Caia Road Goods sidings circa 1960 is complete in terms of functional track. 

I have been fin tuning some of the pointwork which have found certain locos binding slightly. It seems everything is running smoothly. The acid test being locos can creep over points and stop and stary straddling points. 

20240307_214742.jpg.1483e9739fd6980af57a74cebd2d1ac8.jpg

I have spent a bit of time "playing" and stock has started to accumulate in the sidings!

20240307_214758.jpg.7c13cd3834f58ad9fd9ba5b6a52de8c7.jpg

Having played, I think the layout offers good scope for enjoyable shuffling of wagons and gentle passage of short passenger services. 

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Posted (edited)

A welcome step forward into modelling proper (away from lectrics and trackwork) is the construction of the distant signal for Caia Road. 

CaiaRoad1962.jpg.4baadb1459e5ba26cc1589ffbfac781a.jpg

I used the MSE gwr tubular post signal kit and enjoyed putting a representation of the Caia signal together. 

20240303_221335.jpg.6eaefedc53a3fb1bed072a554ad812c7.jpg

I find soldering to be the most engaging and rewarding process in model railways. I do not profess to be an expert but really enjoy it. 

I like the kit in terms of detail and the construction of the signal arm from two pieces was tricky but worth the effort. 20240307_214656.jpg.faf7ac6b9be39e11e1e923f73fe1b1a2.jpg

I didn't do a great job of interpreting the dimensions of the signal and built it too tall in the first instance. 

As a result the butt of the post is too tall, but next to the shed, having chopped the post down and rebuilt the arm bearing, I feel the dimensions are right against the mockup shed. 

Edited by westernviscount
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The post and arm were primed with halfords white rattle can. 

The arm was then airbrushed with phoenix  precision signal yellow. 

20240309_115800.jpg.2c8ecb3037f73e1f167a7fe1f9c2f235.jpg

The post was very carefully masked so the base of the post butt, ladder and lamp could be airbrushed black. Personally, as a novice airbrusher, I get best results with revell paints thinned with white spirit. 

20240309_174235.jpg.6ae8c5e7edd1b2dd1b2c1dfe77de8797.jpg

The arm was masked using tamiya masking tape with a chevron cut out. I printed the instruction sheet a few times as it includes a to scale diagram of the signal chevron. 

It isn't perfect but the results are pleasing. I was able to line up the front and rear chevron on the arm well. 

Next come the positioning of lenses in the spectacle plate and the installation of the back blinder and operating wires. 

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  • RMweb Gold
8 hours ago, westernviscount said:

I have spent a bit of time "playing" and stock has started to accumulate in the sidings!

 

Excuse me, we're serious people round these 'ere parts, testing if you don't mind!

 

Mike.

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  • RMweb Gold

This is lovely.

 

There is little to me that is more evocative of the slight mystery and unknown potential of a little used railway byway than a single, semaphore distant signal...

 

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3 hours ago, Captain Kernow said:

This is lovely.

 

There is little to me that is more evocative of the slight mystery and unknown potential of a little used railway byway than a single, semaphore distant signal...

 

Thanks captain. I know exactly what you mean. Beyond the signal the line proceeds over a bridge and gently curves to the right which adds to the mystery. 

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20240310_134123.jpg.e4309e118d9bc582491689240e372285.jpg

This has been a "just get on with it" piece of modelling by my standards. 

The addition of the back blinder sees the signal arm permenantly fitted into the spindle. 

It has been a nice piece of learning too as I had no idea how a back blinder should be positioned on the signal. 

20240310_134051.jpg.fbbca0b3aedfa952e688a2220137980e.jpg

The lenses were cut just bigger than the apertures and set in place with thinned gloss varnish. The fronts were varnished also as the instruction recommend. 

20240310_134238.jpg.9b93fbc3f31af28f9b97a2cffcf4f0e1.jpg

The operatimg wire is .3mm I think amd blackened with a permanent marker. 

The blance weight and lever operate the signal arm very nicely and the signal finds its level using the lever crank. 

 

Very pleased with it all...except that finial. Talk about splodging the paint on. 

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36 minutes ago, sb67 said:

The signal looks mighty fine David, glad to see the layout coming along 🙂

Thank you Steve. Now the trackwork is fully operational (death star like) the modelling can get going which will hopefully see tge layout transform a little steadier. Up until now it has looked very much the same for many months. 

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A flavour of things to come...

20240311_213955.jpg.45062f17204a9333c0abb5ee023a0b26.jpg

Some wagons shuffled into place to mimic one of the few pictures available of Caia Road. 

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I spent the evening removing the webs between sleepers ready for the track to be painted and ballasted. The fun bit!! 

20240311_214353.jpg.5a87d28657ebf2cd0c18bcdcb11f6fb9.jpg

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12 hours ago, westernviscount said:

I spent the evening removing the webs between sleepers ready for the track to be painted and ballasted. The fun bit!!

Yes, I thought I'd spied that you'd done that - well done!! I think it makes a major difference, once the track is ballasted.

 

As you seem to have used the thin sleepered kind of track (which is what I use myself), will you be adopting the 'paint the neat PVA between the sleepers and then drop the ballast onto the wet glue' approach?

 

Although very time consuming, I find that the much higher degree of control over where the ballast goes makes for a much more convincing scene...

 

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3 hours ago, Captain Kernow said:

Yes, I thought I'd spied that you'd done that - well done!! I think it makes a major difference, once the track is ballasted.

 

As you seem to have used the thin sleepered kind of track (which is what I use myself), will you be adopting the 'paint the neat PVA between the sleepers and then drop the ballast onto the wet glue' approach?

 

Although very time consuming, I find that the much higher degree of control over where the ballast goes makes for a much more convincing scene...

 

Thank you Captain. I am unsure at this point bit I have seen excellent results using the method you describe. 

I am going to start painting the track next I am there. Do you jave a preffered method? I am toying with airbrushing with acrylic which I have not done before. 

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1 hour ago, westernviscount said:

Thank you Captain. I am unsure at this point bit I have seen excellent results using the method you describe. 

I am going to start painting the track next I am there. Do you jave a preffered method? I am toying with airbrushing with acrylic which I have not done before. 

Well, I normally spray Halfords red oxide primer on the track first and rub the rail tops clean when dry (I use cellulose thinners for this - takes no prisoners).

 

I then spray (from another rattle can) a generic 'track colour', from the likes of Precision or Railmatch.

 

After that, it's brush painting most, if not all individual sleepers and also the rail sides, if a different hue is required (brake dust etc.).

 

Once all that has fully hardened off (I use enamels, as they are in my comfort zone), I start the ballasting.

 

I mix the appropriate shade, mixing different colours of 'N' gauge ballast (much more scale appearance in 4mm) from the likes of Carrs or Woodland Scenics.

 

Then, neat PVA (not the quick drying kind) is brush painted with an appropriately small brush in each sleeper bay and either side of the track. I can normally manage about 3 or 4 sleeper bays at a time, before the glue starts to go off too much. I then immediately sprinkle the ballast mix onto the wet glue and leave to dry (usually overnight). I can normally manage about a foot of this, before I start to go mad...

 

The excess ballast is vacuumed off next day, hopefully saved for reuse by a bit of old nylon tights or similar over the nozzle of the vacuum cleaner.

 

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2 hours ago, Captain Kernow said:

Well, I normally spray Halfords red oxide primer on the track first and rub the rail tops clean when dry (I use cellulose thinners for this - takes no prisoners).

 

I then spray (from another rattle can) a generic 'track colour', from the likes of Precision or Railmatch.

 

After that, it's brush painting most, if not all individual sleepers and also the rail sides, if a different hue is required (brake dust etc.).

 

Once all that has fully hardened off (I use enamels, as they are in my comfort zone), I start the ballasting.

 

I mix the appropriate shade, mixing different colours of 'N' gauge ballast (much more scale appearance in 4mm) from the likes of Carrs or Woodland Scenics.

 

Then, neat PVA (not the quick drying kind) is brush painted with an appropriately small brush in each sleeper bay and either side of the track. I can normally manage about 3 or 4 sleeper bays at a time, before the glue starts to go off too much. I then immediately sprinkle the ballast mix onto the wet glue and leave to dry (usually overnight). I can normally manage about a foot of this, before I start to go mad...

 

The excess ballast is vacuumed off next day, hopefully saved for reuse by a bit of old nylon tights or similar over the nozzle of the vacuum cleaner.

 

Thanks Captain. Do you have any special procedures for motorised points? I havent had many problems in the past but wondered how others go about things. 

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1 hour ago, westernviscount said:

Thanks Captain. Do you have any special procedures for motorised points? I havent had many problems in the past but wondered how others go about things. 

I am just very careful when spreading the glue and depositing the ballast. If there's not much room where the tiebar goes, between the respective sleepers either side, I tend not to ballast that, but simply paint it a track colour.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

A bit of progress with the trackwork...

20240325_214219.jpg.9c3856717de0641262f36227d8ae0460.jpg

I sprayed the track tonight which has really moved things along.

20240325_214050.jpg.2750870561231d38ecdcb430b4392901.jpg

I notice a little copper clad sneaking through but the overall colour blends the trackwork together. 

20240325_214034.jpg.c2d9efbdbb330ef3cc27adfed5ecb7f4.jpg

A bit of ballasting later in the week I think. Although I ran out of paint a foot or so from the end of the layout!! 

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On 25/03/2024 at 22:58, westernviscount said:

A bit of progress with the trackwork...

20240325_214219.jpg.9c3856717de0641262f36227d8ae0460.jpg

I sprayed the track tonight which has really moved things along.

20240325_214050.jpg.2750870561231d38ecdcb430b4392901.jpg

I notice a little copper clad sneaking through but the overall colour blends the trackwork together. 

20240325_214034.jpg.c2d9efbdbb330ef3cc27adfed5ecb7f4.jpg

A bit of ballasting later in the week I think. Although I ran out of paint a foot or so from the end of the layout!! 

 

You mean you made the layout a foot too long!!

 

Mike.

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