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Oh for a good Thump or my journey into 3D


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Well nearly three years ago I got a FDM printer and started the process of learning to do 3D design. I have been lucky that my son-in-law who is an aerospace engineer has the same printer as me. However it has taken since getting the printer this long to learn to use the software. I tried several different types. Looked at Blender gave up. Tried Onshape had issues with WiFi. So eventually found Designspark Mechanical. This works as a stand alone unit so I do not have to worry about my poor WiFi. My house has the remnants of a hot air heating system and has hidden metal ducting in various walls, floors etc affecting the signal. I have three WiFi boosters around the hose to compensate. After a couple of years watching various videos and playing with simple designs I have found away of getting a design to print. Ok I know that FDM is not the right printer for 4mm scale but it is good to practice and produce mules to see if I am getting it right. The boss has already said I can get a resin printer but until I am happy with what I am going it will be sometime before a new machine appears. I am also lucky in tha I have a large enough garage that I can st up in and still have the car inside. It’s a large single garage under the house about 25ft long.

 

So onto Thump(ers), I have been planning for many years on building a layout based on Rowfant and Grange road and I need a couple of BR(s) demus namely the cut down Oxted variant. Now I have a badly unfinished DC kits unit that being the ham fisted modeller I had put together. However a couple of years ago I broke off one of the cab fronts and with a hose move this has disappeared. So I thought could I do a design and print a unit out. So I started with the dimensions of a BR mk1 coach and the diagram drawing from the Barrowmore group and had a go. Well it seams I can get there it’s not perfect yet but until I have a resin printer it will do. Seeing as in effect all the DEMUs used standard jigs it is possible to model all the various options. I want to have a Tadpole and a 6S as well. But I have also worked on the Berkshire variant as well.

 

Well for now I will shut up and include a shot of efforts so far. Yes I know they are not 100% but they will get better.

 

Keith

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  • 4 weeks later...

So I have had a bit of a printer update with thanks to my Son-in-law. A new PEI plate and a CR touch that resolves bed levelling. I have still been been drawing and improving my skill set and have managed to produce a 3D in 3D sorry for the pun…. I know there are people out there that don’t like 3D but for me it’s a game changer. I have for years dreamed of being able to turn metal or plastic into fantastic models. I have tried to go the scratch build route but I am too ham fisted. So 3D is the answer to my prayers. Now at the moment my models are not up to the rivet counters levels but considering the latest prints I feel they could work well at the three feet viewing distance. I have a lot more to do including underframes and roofs. I am considering motorising using Hornby 101 power unit yes I know the wheel base is out by 1mm but I can live with that. Next on my list is either a tadpole/Hastings or a Berkshire unit. 
 

Keith

 

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57 minutes ago, JCL said:

I think you’re a lot better than you think you are - they look great!

Thanks for the kind comments. In a way it was following a couple of your threads that gave me the confidence to have a go. I tried bender but just could not get on with it. It has taken me two years to get to my current level and setting on Designspark Mechanical as my preferred software. However even now this software throws a curved ball every now and again. There is the old saying that you learn something new every day well with 3D that happens all the time.

 

Keith

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That 3D looks great! Could you give a short description on where you started with creating the solid? I‘ve been working with DesignSpark for the past year and have found that the best method for coaches so far is to create a block with the correct roof profile and then turn it into a shell.

 

Christian

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On 21/07/2023 at 21:05, NickL2008 said:

Those do look good, ive attempted to make one the more conventional way by using Replica parts, but the DMBS doesnt look quite right and not happy with the paint job either. look forward to more progress

 

NK

Nick, I went a different route in the 90’s using MJT side and Southern Pride Model roof and chassis parts, it’s now being completely rebuilt with new mechanics and a Hornby VEP front end. Apologies for the thread hijack!IMG_8860.jpeg.6fe19f383c27c1412e69e58bdc8b630a.jpeg

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3 hours ago, Wolf27 said:

Nick, I went a different route in the 90’s using MJT side and Southern Pride Model roof and chassis parts, it’s now being completely rebuilt with new mechanics and a Hornby VEP front end. Apologies for the thread hijack!IMG_8860.jpeg.6fe19f383c27c1412e69e58bdc8b630a.jpeg

 

That looks good, I went with scratch building, as I was never keen with blending etched metal and plastic together. I looked at the Bachmann 205 underframe the other day and looks like it has some useful components and the bogies from the DTS that will improve things. I used Shawplan diamond mesh for the intake grill on the DMBS, which looks ok, but I think id like to draw up my own etch and get some much, much finer mesh to use with it

 

NL

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3 hours ago, chb2488 said:

That 3D looks great! Could you give a short description on where you started with creating the solid? I‘ve been working with DesignSpark for the past year and have found that the best method for coaches so far is to create a block with the correct roof profile and then turn it into a shell.

 

Christian

Hi Christian, my process is different. I do each side as a 2mm thick piece and draw each window door etc. I create each door opening by first putting in one line and then each side drawing a .13mm rectangle each side of that line. Once I have pulled the design up 2mm overall and each door edge by .75mm. I then highlight one end and draw a circle of 112mm R/224mm Diameter I then use the pull tool to cut out the required surface. I do similar for the ends. Then I open up a new design and import each piece and build the carriage. Might be longwinded but it works for me. 
 

Also I am NOT an expert so am probably getting  it wrong. I have done the start of the underframes including the multiple step boards. And printing at moment the first draft of a fuel tank just see what it looks like.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Keith

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Well I have had another go at the fuel tank. This time I have used a photo found on fb and dimensions from the etch I have from my DC kits model that I have never used. Sorry for the white filament.

 

Keith

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  • 1 month later...

A bit more work on my quest to model the BR(s) DEMUs. I have now managed a 3R tadpole as well as the 3D. Having drawn the DTS for the tadpole I am now looking at producing a 3T. Also on my list is the 3H Berkshire version as well.

 

Keith

 

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  • RMweb Gold
On 18/07/2023 at 18:37, KeithHC said:

 I am considering motorising using Hornby 101 power unit yes I know the wheel base is out by 1mm but I can live with that.

Have you considered the Replica power units? They do one with the right wheelbase for the DEMUs. I've got one in my to-do pile waiting to go under a DC 3H when I eventually get around to that - though I'm now watching this with great interest, as a 3D would be an interesting alternative!

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Thanks Nick for your comments. The replica chassis is an option and I have not yet made a decision. Also to be taken into consideration is the need to convert to EM as well. I am still working on all the DEMU variants but also working on a Ffestiniog England engine.

 

Keith

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well as a diversion from the DEMUS I also have a love of all things Ffestiniog. So armed with a drawing of Prince from the 7mm narrow gauge society. I started to do a 3D design. There are errors with the drawing and I also used data from Festipedia. So again printed on my Ender3 pro an FDM machine. This is not one for the river counters but just as an exercise. Whilst doing this design again I have learnt new elements that adds to my knowledge. I did one print of the complete loco but found it better to breakdown the model into three parts. I have also included some blackhead details firehole door, regulator and gauge glasses.

 

 

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Hi there,

 

It looks great! Have you thought about printing the saddle tank and cab roof vertically? That would help reduce the prominence of the lines you have on there.

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11 hours ago, JCL said:

Hi there,

 

It looks great! Have you thought about printing the saddle tank and cab roof vertically? That would help reduce the prominence of the lines you have on there.

Hi Jason thanks for the input. Myself and my son-in-law are looking into the issue. I use a layer height of 0.2 but we are going to look at belt tightening. These are only test mules at the moment as I will be getting a resin printer soon. Mind you they could be used as a diorama based in part of Boston Lodge in the late forties overgrown and rusting.

 

Keith

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  • 2 weeks later...

Latest trial print of Ffestiniog Upnor Castle. The chassis is designed around a 35mm Tenshodo unit. This is 3mm under the wheelbase but the overall effect is not too bad. I still have to work on the radiator.

 

Keith

 

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