bradfordbuffer Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 20 minutes ago, Red Devil said: Very quick video of the first run of the double reduction DMU drive having it's first test run on 12v flying leads.... You'll have to excuse my scruffy hands but when you've spent the last few weeks mauling with reclaimed York stone paving and grit stone setts they do tend to end up a bit battered!😄 Overall so far so good, few bits I want to finesse before hooking up to a battery and RC receiver. looks smooth. ... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Devil Posted January 29 Author Share Posted January 29 (edited) Various things have arrived in the post, amongst them some Ultrascale gears so I decided to knock up a double axle drive unit that may end up in a DMU or as the prototype for a class 17 drive, where it needs to be fairly low and compact. In both instances these will need smaller wheels so I took the advantage of ordering some of the new 'universal' DW092 9mm disc wheels from the 3mm society, as supplied they're 12mm gauge but with a bit of brute force they can be regauged to 14.2mm, one wheel is fitted on a section of splined axle but it can be shifted off, as the Ultrascale gears are a 2mm bore I bushed the axle out and thread locked the bush and splined wheel in place (partially on the spline). The other wheel is plastic bushed and easy to remove and refit at the right gauge. So having done that and knocked up a brass chassis as per my others I've roughed it out where the motor will go, initial tests being with a Nigel Lawton single ender, but a Tramfabriek 1015 double ended motor's on the way. So I'll sort that when it arrives, but so far so good. Clearances are tight but ok with the 30:1 gear being 7.9mm dia, but it clears point work etc ok and should be fine. I also ordered some 21:1 gears just in case it was all a bit tight but I think I'll use them to re engineer the AC cars railbus chassis and also knock up one for a Park Royal version ...I'm gonna start calling it a Crossley seeing as the bodies were actually built by Crossley in Stockport! The 24 chassis has had a fair bit more done more on that in the future, but a couple of pics and a quick vid of the first lash up of the double drive unit. Edited January 29 by Red Devil embed vid. 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Devil Posted February 1 Author Share Posted February 1 Quick update on the dual drive bogie.... Everything fits....just! Up to quick test on flying leads and so far so good, one gear is loose on axle, both need thread locking on as yet. Next up , proper motor keeper plate, then battery/RC test, overall pretty happy with it so far. 1 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Devil Posted February 5 Author Share Posted February 5 (edited) Another very quick update on the dual drive bogie, details as above... Motor keeper plate/pivot point soldered in and gears loctited in position.... Then a lashed up test on battery and radio control.... So far so good, I think I'll charge up a 400mah battery and give it a test on time and a bit of running in.... Edited February 5 by Red Devil Embed vid 1 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Devil Posted February 11 Author Share Posted February 11 (edited) I had absolutely no intention of building a 37, I'll be honest and say that whilst a class that is associated with Scotland I always thought they went there a little later than my intended period, however having had a look in the parts stash I wondered what to do with one of the 1020 motors I have, toss up between a 37 and a 40, the 37 won because of the shorter wheelbase and I didn't have any gear adaptors long enough for a 40.... On to have a mooch on BR database I found quite a few 37s had shifted to Haymarket, Polmadie and Eastfield '66 on....'that'll do' Out with the brass etc and a few hours later we have a running power bogie....40:1 Romfords same as several others driving outer axles, overall quite like this and will be altering one of the Bo-Bo bogies to the same albeit with a 1015 motor....it will just fit. Anyway a quick video on flying leads, usual story not finished and very much WIP but hopefully gives an idea.... Best order a body! Edited February 11 by Red Devil 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradfordbuffer Posted February 11 Share Posted February 11 2 hours ago, Red Devil said: I had absolutely no intention of building a 37, I'll be honest and say that whilst a class that is associated with Scotland I always thought they went there a little later than my intended period, however having had a look in the parts stash I wondered what to do with one of the 1020 motors I have, toss up between a 37 and a 40, the 37 won because of the shorter wheelbase and I didn't have any gear adaptors long enough for a 40.... On to have a mooch on BR database I found quite a few 37s had shifted to Haymarket, Polmadie and Eastfield '66 on....'that'll do' Out with the brass etc and a few hours later we have a running power bogie....40:1 Romfords same as several others driving outer axles, overall quite like this and will be altering one of the Bo-Bo bogies to the same albeit with a 1015 motor....it will just fit. Anyway a quick video on flying leads, usual story not finished and very much WIP but hopefully gives an idea.... Best order a body! So would I be correct in assumption that as the wheels are both insulated this process of bogie construction 'could' be transfered to normal 2 rail as long as insulating the bogie block from the wheel tread and adding pickups! Or shorting out one side wheel to axel so only one side pickups needed. But you do make a compelling case for dead rail system. Love the updates 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Devil Posted February 11 Author Share Posted February 11 (edited) 24 minutes ago, bradfordbuffer said: So would I be correct in assumption that as the wheels are both insulated this process of bogie construction 'could' be transfered to normal 2 rail as long as insulating the bogie block from the wheel tread and adding pickups! Or shorting out one side wheel to axel so only one side pickups needed. But you do make a compelling case for dead rail system. Love the updates Yep, axles are insulated so the whole thing is 'dead'. They could be run independently on either a DCC or DC layout as they wouldn't short out. The DMU bogie is insulated one side due to wheel construction so it's a case of making sure both are same side to keep it dead. They'd take pickups fine and the gearing would probably be ok, on dead rail they will crawl and run slow better as the control is a bit finer, (or is with my controller v transmitter) counter balance to this is that if a bit more umph at top end is required then, as I am, a voltage upconverter to 5.9v needs fitting. So in a nutshell, yes these would be perfectly ok on 12v (DCC too I'm guessing but can't say for certain as I've never gone there) if the construction was copied and pickups added. I've sorta got the whole build thing sussed now and I'd say the 37 took about 4 hours from scratch, the next one would be easier. This is a shot of a few of them....37, 29 (altered to take a 1015 motor with dual axle drive) and the DMU bogie. I don't think I'll be bothering to develop the Bullant style drive any further as these direct drive versions do the job and are easier to build. Romford 40:1 compact gears in anything bigger than a 9mm wheel, Ultrascale 30:1 in 9mm wheel drives (DMU poss class 17 even though it really should be 9.75mm). Edited February 11 by Red Devil spelling 3 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Devil Posted February 16 Author Share Posted February 16 One back two forward .. Overall I think I prefer the dual axle drive mechs over the Nigel Lawton motored single axle drive unit, so I decided to see if as per earlier thoughts I could get a Tramfabriek 1015 motor in-between the Romford 20 series compact 40:1 gears. End result was yes without too much difficulty so that'll be the preferred build now, dearer on the motor but I'm happier with it. Initially they'll be single bogie drives, I can't see them needing any more than this for my needs....works well enough for plenty of RTR plus I can add grip to all four driven wheels if required.....no pickups has its bonuses! This was going in the 29 but I think I'll stick it in the 24 chassis as that's nearer to completion, I'll amend the 24 bogies to the same set up and they can go in the 29 etc .. Quick flying leads video .. 1 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Devil Posted February 21 Author Share Posted February 21 Meanwhile, back to the 24 build, having decided that it was having a single twin axle drive bogie (well initially!) I knocked up a marching trailing bogie, couple of minor amendments to do for side frame mountings but have that in hand....The chassis unit is now pretty much completed bar painting the battery box, charge port is fitted and the on off switch wil be next. I have ordered some correct 11mm 14.2 wheels for this and when they arrive I'll do the final build up. Meanwhile some more gears have arrived from Branch lines and a couple more 1015 motors from Tramfabriek so they'll get used in the now beginning to be altered former 24 bogies giving me the drive units for the 29 and the 20. Having seen that the 1015s go in the 8ft 6in bogie easily enough I think the 1020 will squeeze into the 10ft 26/7 bogie and I just happen to have one of those spare.... I'm currently wondering if the Black Beetle P4 9.6 wheel will do me for the 17.... I really was only going to knock up a couple of locos in 3mm but it seems that it's sorta grown to 17,20,24,29,26,37,DMU and two railbuses...so far! The drive units probably being the hardest bit so well on the way. Oh well, actually enjoying it so all good 😊 3 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blefuscu Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 I'm thinking about having a go at this for one of my TT120 projects. I will probably just use a Halling bogie for my 313 EMU, as it looks to be a good fit. (H0m trams save the day!) However, for the 55 I am looking at these 9.1mm Mosskito Wheels... https://www.lightrailwaystores.co.uk/collections/mosskito/products/mosskito-wheels-9-1mm-12mm-gauge?variant=40378791231554 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradfordbuffer Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 3 minutes ago, Blefuscu said: I'm thinking about having a go at this for one of my TT120 projects. I will probably just use a Halling bogie for my 313 EMU, as it looks to be a good fit. (H0m trams save the day!) However, for the 55 I am looking at these 9.1mm Mosskito Wheels... https://www.lightrailwaystores.co.uk/collections/mosskito/products/mosskito-wheels-9-1mm-12mm-gauge?variant=40378791231554 They look good and only one side isolated so use bogie frame to pick up..so only one pickup required 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Devil Posted February 24 Author Share Posted February 24 6 hours ago, Blefuscu said: I'm thinking about having a go at this for one of my TT120 projects. I will probably just use a Halling bogie for my 313 EMU, as it looks to be a good fit. (H0m trams save the day!) However, for the 55 I am looking at these 9.1mm Mosskito Wheels... https://www.lightrailwaystores.co.uk/collections/mosskito/products/mosskito-wheels-9-1mm-12mm-gauge?variant=40378791231554 Halling gears would work with those wheels too, as Halling use a 1.5mm axle. I always thought the wheels on Halling bogies/drives were a bit on the coarse side, those look a touch finer. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blefuscu Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 55 minutes ago, Red Devil said: Halling gears would work with those wheels too, as Halling use a 1.5mm axle. I always thought the wheels on Halling bogies/drives were a bit on the coarse side, those look a touch finer. That's good to know. Who do you recommend for sourcing Halling gears? I tried to order that 21mm Halling bogie earlier but had no luck. (I couldn't seem to select any kind of shipping for it.. ?) I did manage to order a Tramfabriek 1015 though... and some worms. So it begins. I don't know how people feel about Aliexpress... Anyhow, my search for coreless motors threw up these... https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004824606265.html Gears too... https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000852987637.html I haven't used Aliexpress myself, but I guess the fact I haven't snapped those up indicates I have very mixed feelings. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Devil Posted February 24 Author Share Posted February 24 19 minutes ago, Blefuscu said: That's good to know. Who do you recommend for sourcing Halling gears? I tried to order that 21mm Halling bogie earlier but had no luck. (I couldn't seem to select any kind of shipping for it.. ?) I did manage to order a Tramfabriek 1015 though... and some worms. So it begins. I don't know how people feel about Aliexpress... Anyhow, my search for coreless motors threw up these... https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004824606265.html Gears too... https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000852987637.html I haven't used Aliexpress myself, but I guess the fact I haven't snapped those up indicates I have very mixed feelings. Speak direct to Halling, they are very good and extremely helpful. I'd be wary on motors having played with a lot of ebay sourced ones....all good but not quite what I wanted. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blefuscu Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 52 minutes ago, Red Devil said: Speak direct to Halling, they are very good and extremely helpful. I'd be wary on motors having played with a lot of ebay sourced ones....all good but not quite what I wanted. OK, I've dropped them a line. Their 21mm powered bogie looks really nice and I could see a lot of applications for it. Meanwhile... I went in for the 9.1 and 8mm Mosskito wheels, and some 8.3mm wheels from muellerradsatz. So I shall have plenty to play with soon. I also ended up taking a punt on a 1015 motor and some M0.2 metal gearsets from china... more just to see what turns up. At £2.50 a go, I won't be too crestfallen if all I get is a puff of black smoke out of it. I also saw some 1.5mm ID bearings, but forgot to add them to my basket... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Devil Posted February 24 Author Share Posted February 24 1 hour ago, Blefuscu said: OK, I've dropped them a line. Their 21mm powered bogie looks really nice and I could see a lot of applications for it. Meanwhile... I went in for the 9.1 and 8mm Mosskito wheels, and some 8.3mm wheels from muellerradsatz. So I shall have plenty to play with soon. I also ended up taking a punt on a 1015 motor and some M0.2 metal gearsets from china... more just to see what turns up. At £2.50 a go, I won't be too crestfallen if all I get is a puff of black smoke out of it. I also saw some 1.5mm ID bearings, but forgot to add them to my basket... A friend has very recently taken delivery of some of these, overall impression is that they're pretty nice, run a little faster than their normal mabuchi powered drives but not silly fast, they come with a 6 pin DCC plug so I guess they could be messed with to run slower (I know sod all about DCC!, I jumped from 12v to RC...) I'd guess they'd be ideal (certainly within a fraction of a mill) for an 8ft 6in drive in 120. I have just spotted some gears after mooching about on the Ali Express link you posted...... I may have to try some..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blefuscu Posted February 25 Share Posted February 25 10 hours ago, Red Devil said: A friend has very recently taken delivery of some of these, overall impression is that they're pretty nice, run a little faster than their normal mabuchi powered drives but not silly fast, they come with a 6 pin DCC plug so I guess they could be messed with to run slower (I know sod all about DCC!, I jumped from 12v to RC...) I'd guess they'd be ideal (certainly within a fraction of a mill) for an 8ft 6in drive in 120. I have just spotted some gears after mooching about on the Ali Express link you posted...... I may have to try some..... I don't think you'd need to resort to DCC to reduce the speed electronically. A potentiometer might do the job. Presumably you're running at a lower voltage in RC, so they would be slower anyway. I hadn't considered RC for 1:120, I will probably go down the DCC road eventually with one of those Arduino projects. Physically, I offered up their 3D model of the 21mm bogie against my 313 model and it looks encouraging. (There's a screen shot of it in the 313 thread.) Yes, it was too hard to resist for me. Once I'd caved in, I went for a fair handful of options. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Devil Posted February 25 Author Share Posted February 25 9 hours ago, Blefuscu said: I don't think you'd need to resort to DCC to reduce the speed electronically. A potentiometer might do the job. Presumably you're running at a lower voltage in RC, so they would be slower anyway. I hadn't considered RC for 1:120, I will probably go down the DCC road eventually with one of those Arduino projects. Physically, I offered up their 3D model of the 21mm bogie against my 313 model and it looks encouraging. (There's a screen shot of it in the 313 thread.) Yes, it was too hard to resist for me. Once I'd caved in, I went for a fair handful of options. Yep, RC works on 3.7v lipos which in some of these is upconverted to 5.9v to give a little more top speed. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Devil Posted February 25 Author Share Posted February 25 Another Lincoln Locos print has now arrived, the railcar mechs are very easy to build so I'll knock up a drive for this using the Ultrascale 21:1 gears I've got in hand It's going to be M79971 which was the last to survive being withdrawn in Feb'68. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blefuscu Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 Those lincoln locos bodies are really nice. Halling got back to me - they are having problems with there webshop at the moment but are happy to take orders and sort out the details later, or take orders via email. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradfordbuffer Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 (edited) 23 minutes ago, Blefuscu said: Those lincoln locos bodies are really nice. Halling got back to me - they are having problems with there webshop at the moment but are happy to take orders and sort out the details later, or take orders via email. Lincon loco will rescale to tt120 The new 31/4 is super....2 years till Hornby one as in phase 4 release Edited February 26 by bradfordbuffer Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blefuscu Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 1 hour ago, bradfordbuffer said: Lincon loco will rescale to tt120 Yes, I saw a nice 55 body on one of the Facebook groups. Although i print my own bodies, and will probably have a go at a 31 before Hornby's turns up, I think they are good value too. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradfordbuffer Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 1 hour ago, Blefuscu said: Yes, I saw a nice 55 body on one of the Facebook groups. Although i print my own bodies, and will probably have a go at a 31 before Hornby's turns up, I think they are good value too. No connection to business...just a customer https://lincoln-loco.co.uk/ For them that haven't seen the range 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Devil Posted March 1 Author Share Posted March 1 I did say I was going to leave the final build up of the 24 chassis until the correct wheels arrived, but I thought I'd pre wire some of the RC stuff into place on the battery holder. The RC circuit is pretty simple, red and black wire from power source to receiver via on off switch and inline fuse.....In the case of the 24 this has been added to by the incorporation of the 6v voltage converter. So when looking at the chassis here the RC receiver is the bit in the middle with the two yellow wires out to the motor(s). The two slots in the side of the chassis bring up the charge point and the on/off switch. The switch and wiring hasn't been fitted yet... So the charge port and battery poss and neg are connected, then down through the on/off switch, then back up to the inline fuse (red chunky wire) to the voltage converter on the poss side and direct to the convertor on the neg. There are only 3 solder points on the convertor the neg being same in and out. The two wires then go to the receiver and that's basically it, if I as an electrical ignoramus can suss it out anyone can! A couple of pics to hopefully show what all the above is on about.... I'm reasonably pleased overall with this as it doesn't look like a complete rats nest of wiring. I can still remove stuff and break down to component parts and change battery if I wish to. 1 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradfordbuffer Posted March 1 Share Posted March 1 2 hours ago, Red Devil said: I did say I was going to leave the final build up of the 24 chassis until the correct wheels arrived, but I thought I'd pre wire some of the RC stuff into place on the battery holder. The RC circuit is pretty simple, red and black wire from power source to receiver via on off switch and inline fuse.....In the case of the 24 this has been added to by the incorporation of the 6v voltage converter. So when looking at the chassis here the RC receiver is the bit in the middle with the two yellow wires out to the motor(s). The two slots in the side of the chassis bring up the charge point and the on/off switch. The switch and wiring hasn't been fitted yet... So the charge port and battery poss and neg are connected, then down through the on/off switch, then back up to the inline fuse (red chunky wire) to the voltage converter on the poss side and direct to the convertor on the neg. There are only 3 solder points on the convertor the neg being same in and out. The two wires then go to the receiver and that's basically it, if I as an electrical ignoramus can suss it out anyone can! A couple of pics to hopefully show what all the above is on about.... I'm reasonably pleased overall with this as it doesn't look like a complete rats nest of wiring. I can still remove stuff and break down to component parts and change battery if I wish to. If I didn't know better I would think I was looking at a ready to run chassis....crisp work! 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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