Jump to content
 

3mm/14.2 Dead rail class 24 build, chassis complete now onto the 29, 37 amongst others.


Red Devil
 Share

Recommended Posts

I'd always fancied having a go at TT and took the plunge with a TT120 08, however I'll be honest and felt it was just a bit too small for my liking....

So I thought I'd have a bash at a 3mm/14.2 loco and a Lincoln Locos class 24 body print was ordered.

Whilst waiting for that I decided to have a go at a chassis, I've been messing about with dead rail and decided to go that way.

So a couple of single axle drive bogies were knocked up using compact Romford 40:1 gears with Nige Lawton009 10 mm round can motors (12v rated). The loco(s) won't have to have huge haulage capacity so a single axle drive should suffice but it'd be eay enough to make it all axle drive by using the similar but double ended Tramfabriek motor, if I do a Co-Co I'd be more inclined to use them in a A1A type mech.

 

So far so good, and here's a video of the hastily lashed up chassis having a bench test....the basic unit is not far off but needs a fair bit of tidying, the battery and rc gear are not.....but it all seems to work ok so far.

 

The body has now landed so I can finish the chassis etc.

 

The good thing about dead rail is you can literally do a bench test, which is good as I've yet to get some 14.2mm gauge track!

 

 

Edited by Red Devil
Change title.
  • Like 2
  • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1
  • Craftsmanship/clever 2
  • Round of applause 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, TT100 Diesels said:

Hi Red Devil,

 

Looking forward to seeing more pics as this build progresses. Any ideas yet on which 24, skinhead or headcode, green or blue?

 

Cheers

 

TT100 Diesels

24/0 in blue.... I'm currently toying with ordering an 83 to try too, it'll be a bit of a diversion to my other stuff but fancy building something M/cr area early 70s.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds great, an 83 as well!

 

Dare I suggest a little diorama, perhaps a small corner of Longsight Depot, some OLE for the 83 and the 24 ticking away next to it........

 

And of course with dead rail locos on r/c, no pesky track wiring required.

 

I am really looking forward to seeing how you progress with this lovely little project.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

How many wagons would you think a B-B loco with single axle drive on the outer axle of the trucks would be able to haul? Is there a ratio that would apply vs a loco where both axles on the trucks are powered?

 

Any tracking or other problems? Does it place any stress on the motor? Are bogies more likely to misbehave? 

 

I've got an N mech that lines up perfectly for something in TT where I had considered this. It would have to haul a max of 5-6 bogie wagons on a shunting plank or small layout, not at high speed. 

Edited by teletougos
Link to post
Share on other sites

33 minutes ago, teletougos said:

How many wagons would you think a B-B loco with single axle drive on the outer axle of the trucks would be able to haul? Is there a ratio that would apply vs a loco where both axles on the trucks are powered?

 

I was thinking something that would have to haul a max of 5-6 bogie wagons on a shunting plank or small layout, not at high speed. 

 

Any tracking or other problems? Does it place any stress on the motor? Are bogies more likely to misbehave? 

 

I've got an N mech that lines up perfectly for something in TT where I had considered this. 

No idea to all of these as yet!.....When I get some 14.2 track and the chassis is weighted and running I'll do some tests. Can't see the motors being an issue as I've used these things in lots of things without any problems.

Link to post
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, TT100 Diesels said:

Sounds great, an 83 as well!

 

Dare I suggest a little diorama, perhaps a small corner of Longsight Depot, some OLE for the 83 and the 24 ticking away next to it........

 

And of course with dead rail locos on r/c, no pesky track wiring required.

 

I am really looking forward to seeing how you progress with this lovely little project.

Something along those lines was the idea.....

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Slight change of plan......

Decided to use no onboard charging and swap batteries to reduce charge downtime, I use this method in my Faller Car System builds in 4mm and it works pretty well, plus I have quite a lot of these CR2 15270 (Half AA) rechargeable batteries....So a half AA battery holder has been grafted it and a quick trial of running on my recently arrived small section of 14.2 mm gauge track that arrived with my 3mm society membership pack.

Very rough and ready but I've begun to get the wiring runs sorted, next up a platform under the battery for the on/off switch and similar for the rc receiver.

Body is here now so I can work out how it will all fit together.

Slow speed running seems like it will be ok....the units haven't really been run in yet but I'd say so far so good and of course it'll do this 'anywhere'. 

Quick pic of chassis as it stands and its running.

 

P1090817.JPG

  • Like 3
  • Craftsmanship/clever 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Red Devil said:

Slight change of plan......

Decided to use no onboard charging and swap batteries to reduce charge downtime, I use this method in my Faller Car System builds in 4mm and it works pretty well, plus I have quite a lot of these CR2 15270 (Half AA) rechargeable batteries....So a half AA battery holder has been grafted it and a quick trial of running on my recently arrived small section of 14.2 mm gauge track that arrived with my 3mm society membership pack.

Very rough and ready but I've begun to get the wiring runs sorted, next up a platform under the battery for the on/off switch and similar for the rc receiver.

Body is here now so I can work out how it will all fit together.

Slow speed running seems like it will be ok....the units haven't really been run in yet but I'd say so far so good and of course it'll do this 'anywhere'. 

Quick pic of chassis as it stands and its running.

 

P1090817.JPG

That's some impressive slow speed control...and no motor jitters!  What us the direction and speed controler like?...

DCC stay alive....hold my hat!

  • Agree 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, bradfordbuffer said:

That's some impressive slow speed control...and no motor jitters!  What us the direction and speed controler like?...

DCC stay alive....hold my hat!

This is the Tx22v2 I use, there are a few versions, I use the one with directional control rather than a centre off, main reason is that I use it for Faller Car System builds and they definitely have a 'forward' position.....they don't work well going backwards!

It's all fairly self explanatory, throttle, inertia, fwd/reverse, power on and off , the selecta knob allows you to change between 12 receivers and the bind button is used when binding the receiver to the handset, a fairly easy process. You can have multiple nos 1, nos 2 etc as long as only the one you want is switched on then it works. So in effect the 3mm stuff is on the same handset as the 4mm stuff but the two will never be switched on at the same time.

Current price is £72..... 

362418869_657500165977768_4216403135479663108_n.jpg

  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, Red Devil said:

This is the Tx22v2 I use, there are a few versions, I use the one with directional control rather than a centre off, main reason is that I use it for Faller Car System builds and they definitely have a 'forward' position.....they don't work well going backwards!

It's all fairly self explanatory, throttle, inertia, fwd/reverse, power on and off , the selecta knob allows you to change between 12 receivers and the bind button is used when binding the receiver to the handset, a fairly easy process. You can have multiple nos 1, nos 2 etc as long as only the one you want is switched on then it works. So in effect the 3mm stuff is on the same handset as the 4mm stuff but the two will never be switched on at the same time.

Current price is £72..... 

362418869_657500165977768_4216403135479663108_n.jpg

That looks brill hand set...looks exiting stuff..don't think I'll have any more than 12 locos in 3mm.

Loconstuff just bought out a range of corless motor bogies so might give them a wizz.

Could you post link yo where rc stuff comes from.

 

Oh and you defo need longer lengths of track😝

Edited by bradfordbuffer
Link to post
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, bradfordbuffer said:

That looks brill hand set...looks exiting stuff..don't think I'll have any more than 12 locos in 3mm.

Loconstuff just bought out a range of corless motor bogies so might give them a wizz.

Could you post link yo where rc stuff comes from.

 

Oh and you defo need longer lengths of track😝

Yep, all the RC gear comes from here..... Micron Radio Control : Micron Radio Control

Sorry for some reason link not working....

Edited by Red Devil
  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • Red Devil changed the title to 3mm/14.2 Dead rail class 24 build and now a radio controlled railbus.

Whilst the 24 progresses slowly I thought I'd have a go at an AC cars railbus..... (yep sphere of layout planned has moved northwards!)

Basic chassis is built....well it's a few bits of brass, motors and gears. Motor is same Nigel Lawton 10mm can, gears are Tenshodo. Body  has arrived so plate for radio control etc can be built above basic chassis. Battery is a 200mah lipo, this will give  plenty enough running time.

Anyway as we are......

367431712_236128919402051_4890334747991037426_n.jpg

Edited by Red Devil
  • Like 5
  • Craftsmanship/clever 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Red Devil said:

Whilst the 24 progresses slowly I thought I'd have a go at an AC cars railbus..... (yep sphere of layout planned has moved northwards!)

Basic chassis is built....well it's a few bits of brass, motors and gears. Motor is same Nigel Lawton 10mm can, gears are Tenshodo. Body  has arrived so plate for radio control etc can be built above basic chassis. Battery is a 200mah lipo, this will give  plenty enough running time.

Anyway as we are......

367431712_236128919402051_4890334747991037426_n.jpg

Looks brill...and first British finescale point too! There great aren't they?

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks good.  My R/C attempts kept failing because the train stops when the loco loses radio contact.

I would be interested to know.
Does this set up have the same stop when it loses signal issue ?
Does the  single 1/2 AA cell power both receiver and motors?   
What sort of top or cruising speeds does this set up give

Link to post
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, bradfordbuffer said:

Looks brill...and first British finescale point too! There great aren't they?

 

Yep, the points are really good, so easy to build.

2 hours ago, DCB said:

Looks good.  My R/C attempts kept failing because the train stops when the loco loses radio contact.

I would be interested to know.
Does this set up have the same stop when it loses signal issue ?
Does the  single 1/2 AA cell power both receiver and motors?   
What sort of top or cruising speeds does this set up give

I've messed about seeing how far away I can get to operate in the past using these and whilst not a proper test I've been 30ft plus away. After that I couldn't see them! Yeah the battery chosen does both motor and receiver. Top speed etc really depends on motor /gearing/ power supply so there's no definitive answer I can say. What you are getting is a continuous lower voltage supply so top speed on anything is obviously lower as you're only giving the motor 3/3.7v max.  This may not be enough for some but you can add in a voltage upconverter that will take power supply to 5.9v from a single cell lipo. They're about £7. 5.9v is used as the Rx4 receivers are rated at 6v. So far I've not use those as all my attempts have been on chassis that I've built rather than say an rtr conversion. In the past my normal method of getting slow speed running was to up the track voltage with higher gearing, using battery supply less gearing is fine but it does take a bit of getting your head around it!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Railbus chassis approaches final wiring.....

Base plate to take all the bits and pieces has been fabricated, I'll wire it up tomorrow if i get time.

Very simple, an on/off switch, batter charge point and a holder for rc receiver, that's the open box in front of motor. overall height from top of rail about 15mm or so which will leave room for at least half to two third seats etc.

It's a simple circuit then really.....battery leads connected to correct terminals on charger socket, neutral straight to receiver which is pre wired. Positive terminal on charger to switch via an inline fuse, then to receiver. Two yellow outputs from receiver go to motor and that's it.

368054382_961203864934355_4125898366111598033_n.jpg

368057261_275763848500893_7964038737226735711_n.jpg

366357106_3789235557970847_5715206627305737900_n.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Craftsmanship/clever 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
14 minutes ago, Lacathedrale said:

The use of those motors and gears looks so straightforward - can you talk a bit more about how you went about matching them up, mounting them at the correct distance and orientation, etc? What reciever do you use?

Basically trial and error! The Nigel Lawton motors are 10mm dia so I either use brass tubing or some plastic tubing to fit the motors, the rest of the basic chassis is made up and by shimming up you can get a good motor mesh using either brass or plastic, once you've sussed what works for each type of gears it becomes very easy to replicate. Sorry I can't be more precise than that but that's basically what I did.

 

Receivers are again from Micron Radio Control RX41-d-v5 configured to TX22 transmitter.....I use the one with directional control rather than centre off.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Ah, so the axle with helical gear are chassis-mounted in bearings/holes, and the nigel lawton motor with the worm is then shimmed and shoved around to mesh properly? Very good stuff! Do you have a handy supply of worms and helical gears?

Edited by Lacathedrale
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Finally got back to do a bit of modelling....

Railbus chassis is up and running albeit on 'accommodation' wheels....RC fitted and a bit of paint in places and so far so good. Now for a battery charge and running longevity test!

 

  • Craftsmanship/clever 1
  • Round of applause 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Body meet chassis. chassis meet body.....

Happily sat in position now, I've removed some of the underframe print because I want to do something else with it. The print perfectly acceptable but I want to do a little bit more, so some bodywork detailing and chassis frames etc build next up.....

Longevity test on a fully charged battery gave 6 hours continuous running at half throttle, in reality that'll be more than enough if it ever goes out on exhibition.....that is ultimately the plan.

I'm rather taken with this now I think a Park Royal version as M79971 may well join it, that being another late survivor. I may even start knocking a chassis up!

 

405470338_1291986188133548_235904852854013977_n.jpg

  • Like 3
  • Craftsmanship/clever 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Meanwhile back to the 24 chassis....

Lenny at Lincoln Locos kindly supplied me with the bogie frame and tank prints for the 24, I'd guess these are really for his ready to roll versions but with a bit of messing about should quite happily fit my 14.2 mm gauge chassis. I've opened out one of the bogie prints and will fit a lower cross member that will screw up to the brass chassis plate quite happily.

Meanwhile I've started work on a jig that will make soldering up Bo-Bo bogies in both 8ft 6in and 10ft versions respectively far quicker and easier, that will cover most of the classes I may end up building. More on that as it progresses....

IMG_20231208_213703.jpg

  • Like 3
  • Informative/Useful 1
  • Craftsmanship/clever 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

One forward, one back, one sideways!

 

On offering up the previously built bogie to the printed side frame it became apparent that somewhere there was an issue, the axle boxes and axles didn't quite line up, measuring it it seems the prints are a little shorter than scale, no criticism of print here, they were designed for the ready to roll chassis and that might have been the deciding factor in that ....whilst I can live with them being a mill or so out I can't really live with them looking wrong....so two options....rebuild fames or rebuild bogies.

 

So being inherently lazy and also having started on the basic chassis jig I went with rebuild the bogies. The jig is very basic but keeps everything square and in position when soldering the chassis bits together. The two longer tubes take a rod that keeps the axle tubes in position whilst soldering, I can add further bogie positions for stuff I want to that part then easily replicate the bogies.

 

The new version that fits the 24 side frames I'm going to try all brass construction having hopefully found a brass tube that fits the motors, just a question of shimming up or down the tubing for gear mesh....basically the same as the earlier version but hopefully stronger and neater overall...having hopefully proved it works this will be my preferred method.

 

So a couple of pics, meanwhile 3 more type 2 bogies to solder up.....hoping the tube arrives soon. 

 

 

385526160_363079703123649_1841742640013173705_n.jpg

406478618_930741728619227_3869628443583179031_n.jpg

  • Like 3
  • Craftsmanship/clever 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...