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Heljan O gauge class 153


37114
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3 minutes ago, TrainsRule88 said:

Does anyone know if Heljan will have some samples of these new Class 153 units at Warley this weekend? I have the GWR one on pre order and would be amazing to see the samples in the flesh. I have seen photos of the samples but would like to see the true heft of these in person as these will be big models in O gauge!

The unpainted EP was with Brian Daniels at Telford Guildex in September. It is an impressive model.

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1 minute ago, F-UnitMad said:

The unpainted EP was with Brian Daniels at Telford Guildex in September. It is an impressive model.

Yes I heard it was! Sadly I couldn’t get to that show but fingers crossed I will get the opportunity at Warley! I am building an O gauge layout especially for this model!

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On 24/11/2023 at 19:26, brian daniels said:

In case you have not seen it here it is on my layout. Nice illuminated door lights.

IMG_2422.JPG

IMG_2426.JPG

Thanks for posting these photos. This is truly a stunning model already and it’s only a sample. 
 

I think this will be the start of a new era for O gauge. 
 

The feedback I would give regarding this model so far is regarding the coupling. It seems there is a magnetic coupling to enable the unit to couple to another, however my suggestion would be to create a working BSI coupling as this would add even more realism. 
Both 00 gauge and N gauge have had units with working BSI couplings. 
 

Other than that, this is just stunning with lots of livery options for future runs. 
 

Hopefully this will be the start of more modern units. Fingers crossed for a class 150 DMU next. 
 

Well Done Heljan. I now have 2 of these on pre order. 

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Posted (edited)
15 hours ago, George Leacon said:

I’m very new to O Gauge - what’s Heijan’s record like with mechanisms / performance / quality control please?

Hi, welcome to O gauge. Short answer - Generally ok. They have a high current draw so you need an o gauge controller (Gaugemaster do one) to provide enough Amps for some of the bigger locos, likewise DCC you will need O gauge suitable chips. If you are only pulling short trains or have a shed layout you can remove a motor which tends to bring the current draw below 1 amp so can still use a wider range of controllers/chips; I did this so I can use a Gaugemaster feedback controller which gives amazing slow speed control for shunting and I am really pleased with how my Heljan locos now run.

 

Historically some of the locos suffered split gears but replacements are available and later locos had this fixed(circa 2017 onwards I recall). Gaugemaster stock spares and have been great in my experience when I have needed bits for a Hymek and a class 60.

Edited by 37114
typo
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2 hours ago, 37114 said:

you can remove a motor which tends to bring the current draw below 1 amp

Or rewire the motors in series, rather than parrallel. As well as reducing current draw this will also enhance low speed crawl, at the expense of reduced top speed, which on a shunty-plank is a moot point anyway.

Edited by F-UnitMad
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6 minutes ago, F-UnitMad said:

Or rewire the motors in series, ratber than parrallel. As well as reducing current draw this will also enhance low speed crawl, at the expense of reduced top speed, which on a shunty-plank is a moot point anyway.

Interesting. in all the various threads discussing Heljan I've never seen anyone mention this before. If i recall from O level physics, having them in series increases resistance and since voltage is fixed, current drops (V=IR)?

 

So the light bulbs will be dimmer!

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1 hour ago, Hal Nail said:

So the light bulbs will be dimmer!

Is that a problem...? 🤔😉😁

 

I'm still 12v DC for my UK O, & tend to disconnect or remove the lights anyway from my HJ diesels, as the real things were very dim in the 1970s.

For my US O I've been able to use a 1amp HO TCS Wowsound decoder in an Atlas GP35 with the motors wired in series. Being DCC with LED lights the brightness is governed by CVs anyway.

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, F-UnitMad said:

Is that a problem...? 🤔😉😁

it was a joke about school electronics! Was totally obvious in my head :)

 

I'm not a fan of lights. I've removed them from my B Set which lit up through every joint!

Edited by Hal Nail
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6 hours ago, 37114 said:

Hi, welcome to O gauge. Short answer - Generally ok. They have a high current draw so you need an o gauge controller (Gaugemaster do one) to provide enough Amps for some of the bigger locos, likewise DCC you will need O gauge suitable chips. If you are only pulling short trains or have a shed layout you can remove a motor which tends to bring the current draw below 1 amp so can still use a wider range of controllers/chips; I did this so I can use a Gaugemaster feedback controller which gives amazing slow speed control for shunting and I am really pleased with how my Heljan locos now run.

 

Historically some of the locos suffered split gears but replacements are available and later locos had this fixed(circa 2017 onwards I recall). Gaugemaster stock spares and have been great in my experience when I have needed bits for a Hymek and a class 60.


That’s grand, thank you for the detailed reply!

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1 hour ago, Hal Nail said:

it was a joke about school electronics! Was totally obvious in my head :)

 

I'm not a fan of lights. I've removed them from my B Set which lit up through every joint!

School electronics - Ah, yes, you've jogged my memory now - well it was a long time ago!!! 😉😱👍

And yes, model lights in locos and stock are often waaay too bright as supplied.

 

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15 hours ago, Pmorgancym said:

Does a 153 need twin motors??

I'm not sure it actually has 2. Blurb says a "smooth, reliable and discreet power bogie".

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The real thing only has one engine, and one powered bogie. 

There's also nothing it can be prototypically be required to haul! Except perhaps another one with a failed engine. All 153-compatible units have every vehicle powered.

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