Hornby Brit - tender close coupling

[Right Away]

I was looking to reduce the distance between engine and tender of a Hornby Britannia (R3865).The factory fitted drawbar has two holes at the loco end, one for running and t’other realistically for static display as it brings the tender up really close to the cab. 

 

With Bullied Pacifics and other locomotives, where required, I make my own shorter drawbars from 0.4mm brass strip but the factory fitted drawbar of the Brit is apparently permanently located at the tender end, making removal most difficult without surgery. 

 

So, stuck with the infernal factory fitted drawbar, I looked at what could be done to permit the use of the closer fixing hole at the cab end.

Perhaps not to everyone’s liking, the small tender buffers (loco end) were removed and the vertical plate beneath the cab floor was filed flush, however this modification is hardly discernible and the visual improvement of the closer coupled tender more than compensates. 

The closer fitting hole can now be used in the drawbar with sufficient freedom of movement to negotiate large radius turnouts with ease, but it should be noted that my curves are quite generous. 

Please see pic for result.

 

 

Edited August 11, 2023 by Right Away
correction

[Ramrig]

I have done a similar modification on my Brits and Clan locomotives also. Gives a much improved visual appearance. 

[John Tomlinson]

A good outcome. I regularly dispense with the little tender buffers to help with close coupling. It isn't really noticeable when they've gone under a fallplate. Save them if you ever have ago at "N"gauge!

 

I have a little stock of drawbars bought in spares packs that can sometimes help, otherwise as you say, it's a case of make one's own.

 

John.

[DCB]

Looks good, I think it's almost as close coupled as my 1960 something Triang version, that needed a hole drilled, and the steps re positioned.  High tech stuff but the close coupling makes a lot of difference while a set of dummy imitation non telescopic buffers under the cab floor which the real thing may or may not have actually had are best left off.  There should be a bellows sealing the gap between the cab and tender....   except on 45-54 

[Poor Old Bruce]

17 hours ago, Ramrig said:

I have done a similar modification on my Brits and Clan locomotives also. Gives a much improved visual appearance. 

 

Me too. They have no problem with 3ft curves or Streamline curved points.

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

On 11/08/2023 at 17:09, Right Away said:

The factory fitted drawbar has two holes at the loco end, one for running and t’other realistically for static display as it brings the tender up really close to the cab. 

I remember being pleased at this feature when the Brit came out: to this day the best loco to tender coupling Hornby have offered. Essentially a copy of what Bachmann had been using, a simple rigid drawbar located at the correct height, what could be better? (Bachmann's later introduction of a screw locked adjustable slide under the tender for spacing to suit any owner's minimum radius requirement is what.)

 

For some reason Hornby abandoned it immediately thereafter, and DIY drawbars, which sometimes it is possible to locate between the dragboxes, have to be made and fitted: usually any intermediate buffers have to filed down somewhat; if done obliquely as seen in plan near full length can usually be retained as seen in elevation.

 

As 'Rightaway' and others in this thread, this really ices the cake, lifting any good model a step closer to correct appearance.

Edited August 13, 2023 by 34theletterbetweenB&D
typo correction

[DCB]

On 12/08/2023 at 10:40, Poor Old Bruce said:

 

Me too. They have no problem with 3ft curves or Streamline curved points.

You don 't need much clearance at all between loco and tender unless you model intermediate buffing gear which the real thing does not actually have..  Even set track reverse curves don't need much clearance as long as there is not a mile of slop in the drawbar. I find 2mm is fine and my test is a set track reverse curve but I have very little slop in my drawbars and generally the tender cannot be detached without removing a screw or two.   The RTR huge gap is because manufacturers make the model of the loco and the model of the tender as separate units instead of modelling loco and tender as a unit and modelling the gap between tender front and loco handrail which is very visible accurately instead of modelling an approximation of stuff below the footplate we never see.  and often does not actually exist   The old locos were designed so 5 year old kids could couple up loco and tender, on a 15" curve. the first Hornby 9Fs are happy on 13.5" radius curves.    Its amazing how little progress has been made over the last 60 years.   My Triang Bob class in the picture was made circa 1961 ish and bog standard as regards tender coupling but coupled in the short position

Edited August 13, 2023 by DCB