Weathering and basic detailing an Ivatt 4

[gordon s]

Despite being an LNER man, I have always had a soft spot for Ivatt “Mucky Ducks†and when Bachmann brought theirs out a couple of years ago, I bought one, but somehow ended up with four of them.

 

Although they ran fairly well straight from the box, I thought I would possibly sacrifice one of them by trying to fit scale wheels and generally trying to improve the loco overall by adding basic detailing and then attempting some weathering. If I screwed up big time, then at least I'd have a set of spares for the other three.

 

This is an account of what happened with the standard Bachmann one.

 

Taking the loco apart is fairly straightforward, but be warned, it is very likely you will break something. All those years of wanting super detailed models and the manufacturers listened. Don’t worry, I don’t want to go back to the bad old days, but there is a lot of fragile detail that is likely to get knocked off, so keep the glue handy.

 

A chance discussion with Chris Nevard, lead me to a specialist chassis builder, Phil Hall who gave me loads of tips on improving the Bachmann running qualities, so I followed his principles. First stage was to strip the whole chassis down and check all the component parts.

 

 

Remove any manufacturing burrs from the axle slots with a 3mm broach.

 

 

Check the back of the rods and again remove any burrs and smooth sharp edges with a needle file. I checked all the wheels and reset the quartering on a jig to ensure everything was square and then gently opened up some of the rod holes, to make sure I had a free running chassis. The first one I did with Markits wheels and a Mashima motor. This one I have kept the Bachmann wheels and motor.

 

In terms of a decoder, I have used a Zimo MX630, which is a perfect fit inside the smokebox.

 

 

Removing the couple of pips that supported the plug in board gave a few more mm of space. I also drilled out the chimney and that has given some ventilation to the chip and improved the look of the loco from above.

 

 

I removed the moulded Bachmann coal, fitted a false floor and then super glued some Carr’s Old Coal into the tender.

 

 

Eventually I will fit pickups on the tender wheels, which should be fairly straightforward, although connecting into the existing wiring wasn’t. The pickup plate under the chassis is a fairly complex affair with multilayer copper bus bars connecting the track to the plug in board and back to the motor. Eventually I decided to solder some fine wires directly to the pick up arms themselves and glued them under the rear springs and out of the back of the loco.

 

 

The final job was close coupling the tender as near as I dare.

 

 

There is a point of no return, where the tender roof which sits under the cab roof will not allow you to couple, so I cut the lower section of the tender away to allow the coupling bar to seat properly, before the roof sections clashed.

 

 

As it is now, this loco will not cope with anything less than 3’ radius curves, but the appearance is much improved. I still need to fabricate a fall plate and add the crew, vacuum pipes and front steps, so that will be another job once all locos are converted.

 

Until now I had never attempted any weathering as I didn’t want to ruin any of my locos. Because I had mentally written off one of the Ivatt 4’s, I thought I would use this as a test bed to explore the principles of weathering. As a first attempt, I’m really pleased, but now I’ve broken the ice, the fear of screwing up is no longer there.

 

First stage was to spray the whole loco and chassis a nice dull, dirty black. I found the best stuff is Rustins blackboard paint. It’s a lovely matt, dirty black and dries almost immediately when sprayed at 50psi from my airbrush. I just applied a fine mist and wiped the areas over the numbers clean with a cotton bud and water. The wheels were hand painted with Phoenix Precision P981 Dirty Black.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The weathering powders I have used are from a MIG kit, Rust and Smoke which came with six jars of powders. I’m amazed how far it goes and so far have only used the Standard Rust and Black Smoke. The final ingredient was a Tamiya Weathering Master Pad in Gun Metal. These look a little like a girl’s eye shadow, so tread carefully…

 

 

I used a soft brush and whilst I did find some basic pics, did most of it freehand until I felt it looked OK. The blackboard paint gave a nice matt finish and proved a perfect base for the powders. I used the Rust first which goes on a bright orange. Don’t worry if it seems far to bright at first as you are going to go over it with the black until it tones down. The black is perfect for all areas that would have seen smoke and dirt, such as the top of the boiler/cab/tender. I also used the rust on parts of the brake gear and along the top surface of the tender where the water filler is situated. The next stage on the body was to wipe the handrails and small metal parts with the Tamiya Gun Metal make up pad. This gives a nice metallic sheen to those parts which were either grabbed by hand or stood on.

 

Tuning to the chassis, I used an etching pen on all the valve gear to blacken parts of the gear which were still showing bare metal. Once that was done, I used the Black powder on the wheels and chassis and the Rust on brake shoes, lower boiler and firebox, plus the front of the cylinders. It was very much trial and error but I got a reasonable result in the end.

 

I’m not sure is this is a good or bad thing, but the valve gear still looked a little model like and didn’t have the oily sheen that you associate with steam engines. So I did exactly that. Virtually dry brushing, I brushed a very fine oil over the valve gear and it came alive. Not only the oily sheen I had been looking for but the powder thickened slightly and gave the impression of grease. I’m just waiting for someone to tell me this was a bad idea, but it worked.

 

 

So there you have it, a beginner’s account of chassis tweaking and weathering. I’ve enjoyed every minute and the end result was worth it. Can’t wait to do the next one. I just wished I'd got off my backside and dived in years ago...

[John B]

It definitely worked, Gordon. That elusive oily sheen has been captured superbly. I'll try that one myself next time, I've yet to dabble in the powders..

 

(aside - Philip Hall is a super chap. I learned a lot from myself before I emigrated...)

[Pugsley]

Yep, it definitely worked B) B) B)

 

I'm going to give that a try when I get round to doing Fighter Command

[Mucky Duck]

That's a beaut and that valve gear looks lovely and oily! Thanks for sharing these tips Gordon.

 

As you have more Ivatts to work on I don't know if you'd be interested in a different approach

and using the Brassmaster's detailing kit for one of them? It takes it that step further but viewing

yours I'm not entirely sure how much better it can look.

[Jamie]

Gordon - at one point you were trying to mate the Bachmann crankpins to Romford or Gibson wheels (I forget which) - were you successful in this, and if so, can you show/describe how you went about it?

[gordon s]

Gordon - at one point you were trying to mate the Bachmann crankpins to Romford or Gibson wheels (I forget which) - were you successful in this, and if so, can you show/describe how you went about it?

 

There were several stages to the Markits conversion. First stage was to drill out the crankpin holes in the two centre drivers. I used a 2.5mm drill in a vertical stand to ensure the crankpin is square. I bought some brass tube 2mm dia with a 1mm hole and 2.5mm with a 2mm hole. Once the 2.5mm hole was drilled, I used a broach to open the hole so that the 2.5mm tube was a good fit and secured it with Loctite 603. Leave the rods protruding about 10mm from the face of each wheel. Once in position, the smaller tube was inserted in the larger and again held in place with Loctite. The two tubes provide a strong crank pin with a small hole in the end. This can be filled with solder as a finishing task.

 

 

The Bachmann coupling rods were carefully broached to accept a 14BA brass washer in the two outer holes. These were soldered into position and the holes filled with solder. I bought some 1/8" axles with extended ends which could then be clamped in position in the 3mm chassis slots. They are a little larger than 3mm so only sit partly in the slots and can be clamped in position using the Bachmann screw positions in the base of the chassis. Make sure you get the rods the right way round as there is a slight difference in the centre to centre dimension. Using the centre rod as a datum, drill a small hole in the soldered ends of the rods and then open up the holes until each rod is centred on its axle point.

 

Using a broach again, open up the hole in the Bachmann crank until it is a push fit on the 2.5mm brass tube stub. I also used a small spacer between the coupling rod and the crank rod to take up a little of the slack in the RTR mechanism. Once the coupling rods have been assembled, push the crank rod onto the stub and rotate carefully until it is at the correct angle. If it is a little loose, then use a tiny bit of 603 to hold it. Too much and you will struggle to remove the valve gear should you need to dismantle the loco. Once this is all set, I used a slitting disc to trim the brass stub flush with the outer surface of the crank pin. A quick paint with the etching pen to blacken the brass and job done.

 

Hope that makes sense....

 

(No laughing at the back....It's the only thing I could come up with. )

[Guest Max Stafford]

Gordon, that is utterly outstanding for a first attempt. You really have hit it square on the bull with this one and the model conveys that oily grit that just yells out 'latter day steam power'.

 

10/10!

 

Dave.

[Jamie]

Yes I think I follow that, I'll bookmark it for re-reading with one of the dismantled ones in front of me. Much obliged.

[Custer]

I am also keen on trying a bit of weathering, used to be keen on keeping my kit pristine, but am now a converted "weatherist". I have to complement you on the great job you have done. I have had some of my locos weathered by "professionals" and put side by side with your efforts you couldn't tell the difference. Thanks for sharing experience, the biggest drawback to getting started is the fear of making a complete mess and at least you had accounted for that.

 

Tom

[Steve Taylor]

nice work, having one of these to do at so,etime myself, I too will be reviewing this again. Good stuff.

[gordon s]

Yes I think I follow that, I'll bookmark it for re-reading with one of the dismantled ones in front of me. Much obliged.

 

Jamie, here's another couple of pics to support my text. Apologies if it is not clear...

 

Chassis with extended axles in place.

 

 

Bachmann rods showing difference with 14BA washer soldered in place.

 

[Jamie]

Cool - so that reduces the "slop" between the coupling rods and crankpin-screws. You've basically built a new pin on the central axle wheelset for the cranks, connecting rod etc to fit onto? And screwed into the end of your tubes to secure the return crank by the looks of it.

 

Terminology as ever fails me so I'm referring to this http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Walschaerts_valve_gear for the time being.

 

Apologies to the general readership, I'm dragging Gordon's thread some way from Weathering and basic detailing, aren't I

['CHARD]

Gordon, that is utterly outstanding for a first attempt. You really have hit it square on the bull with this one and the model conveys that oily grit that just yells out 'latter day steam power'.

 

10/10!

 

Dave.

 

You're spot on there Dave! Not read Jamie's next post on the thread yet, but if it says he's bookmarking this to use as a manual, then I'm seconding it.

 

My tenpence-worth, Gordon - this should be on the 'How Realistic Are..?' thread.

 

Brilliant. Absolutely brilliant.

[gordon s]

Cool - so that reduces the "slop" between the coupling rods and crankpin-screws. You've basically built a new pin on the central axle wheelset for the cranks, connecting rod etc to fit onto? And screwed into the end of your tubes to secure the return crank by the looks of it.

 

Terminology as ever fails me so I'm referring to this http://en.wikipedia....erts_valve_gear for the time being.

 

Apologies to the general readership, I'm dragging Gordon's thread some way from Weathering and basic detailing, aren't I

 

 

No problem Jamie. You are close but not quite. I have constructed a new crank pin using the two brass tubes, one inside the other. This is fitted to the Markits wheel, by drilling out the crankpin hole to 2.5mm. The eccentric link on the Bachmann valve gear is just a push fit onto the brass tube, no screws are involved. If you are careful when you open out the hole in the eccentric, it can be a tight fit. If you overdo it, a TINY drop of Loctite 603 will hold it firmly, but you must be very carefull it doesn't run down the pin and completely lock up the valvegear.

 

The 14BA washers are used to reduce the hole size down to that of the Markits crank pins which have a 1.5mm shoulder from memory. I used the threaded crankpins, not the plain ones that have to be soldered. Hope this pic helps.

 

[Andrew F]

The pig looks fantastic! seems like you know what you're doing with the different materials. I got to book mark this thread as I'd love to weather something upto this standard. Thanks Gordon.

 

Cheers

 

Andy

[Jon020]

Well... if that's your first attempt, I can't wait to see the next one. Great that you enjoyed the process... weathering can be nerve-racking if it goes awry... but I've found it fun!

Looking forward to reading more

jon

[Allegheny1600]

Hi Gordon,

Superb work! I'm most inspired to have a go at mine now, thank you.

Cheers,

John E.

[Ron61]

First class job - thanks for sharing.

[trisonic]

Back from the dead - but worth it.

Your oil + powder certainly does the trick in getting that oily sheen on the action, Gordon.

General "weathering" question: Does anyone still use the India Ink + IPA wash to pick out details before weathering?

Obviously that doesn't work so well (!) on black locos but I used to use it prior to "real" weathering on model armoured vehicles back in the late 70's........

 

Best, Pete.

[trisonic]

Before anyone asks: no, I don't have any examples of my armoured stuff because I used real 9mm bullets (heads only) as ballast in them - when my folks all died (they were stashed at the family home) I had to consign them to the local tip rather than flying home to the 'States with them at the fag end of 2001, for obvious reasons.........

 

Best, Pete.

[Mallard60022]

Back from the dead - but worth it.

Your oil + powder certainly does the trick in getting that oily sheen on the action, Gordon.

General "weathering" question: Does anyone still use the India Ink + IPA wash to pick out details before weathering?

Obviously that doesn't work so well (!) on black locos but I used to use it prior to "real" weathering on model armoured vehicles back in the late 70's........

 

Best, Pete.

 

Hi Pete. Being a duffer I'm not familiar with the Ink /IPA wash method - could you elaborate if you have the time.

Cheers 36E

[trisonic]

Get a bottle of IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol). Over here you can get it as either 70% or 90% solution (I'm not sure which I prefer). It's about half a pint. I put two or three drops of India Ink straight into the bottle. (some people make up solutions with one drop of India Ink, then another with two drops then four etc,. I don't bother). Introduce it over the model in a wash - then wipe off the flat or vertical surfaces with a Q-Tip. Let the wash get into all the nooks and crannies. Doing this makes the details pop out a little.

Just don't overdo it. That's why I keep the solution weak then repeat if necessary.

 

HTH.

 

Best, Pete.

[Pannier Tank]

Gordon, what an excellant job you have done with the Mucky Duck. I hope I can produce results like that when I eventually start some modelling.

[Mallard60022]

Get a bottle of IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol). Over here you can get it as either 70% or 90% solution (I'm not sure which I prefer). It's about half a pint. I put two or three drops of India Ink straight into the bottle. (some people make up solutions with one drop of India Ink, then another with two drops then four etc,. I don't bother). Introduce it over the model in a wash - then wipe off the flat or vertical surfaces with a Q-Tip. Let the wash get into all the nooks and crannies. Doing this makes the details pop out a little.

Just don't overdo it. That's why I keep the solution weak then repeat if necessary.

 

HTH.

 

Best, Pete.

 

Cheers Pete. Thought it was something like this.

P @ 36E