Layout from scratch. Any input appreciated.

[Mysticpuzzle]

Long story short, I am back to square one with designing the layout following some good advise from the seasoned modellers here (discussion under another topic).

 

I have zero experience and am doing it as a project with my son. How and where do I start?

 

Space I have (see attached photos):

• I currently rent following divorce so cannot opt for a permanent layout.
• The dining room (pic 1) can be converted into a full time model space.
• Pic 2 has a nice space with a platform which is ideal but I doubt if trains can go round in such a tight space
• Pic 3 again has a nice space and the advantage of keeping my dining space

 

Expectations from the layout:

Minimum 3 trains (2 passenger and probably 1 goods). Two passengers if three is not possible at all.

2 - 3 stations (must have)

Points (must have)

Road(s) for model cars, busses etc. (must have)

A tunnel (must have)

Double level crossing (must have)

Shed (good to have)

Turntable (good to have if space is available)

No gradients

No 1st curves (?)

 

Current rolling stock:

GWR HST

Eurostar HST

Blue Highlander

Flying Scotsman

 

Am I aiming high here or is something possible in the given space?  If yes, where should I start? I have AnyRail and tried a few layouts but each time there was something I missed and then had to scrap everything.

[The Johnster]

Welcome to the Layout & Track Design area, Mystic. 

 

I also live in rented accommodation, and cannot make any permanent layout structure that affects the fabric of the property in any way.  My personal preference would be for a shelf layout in the dining room.  Shelf suggests drilling holes in the wall for support brackets, which your landlord might not appreciate, but there is an alternative, resting the baseboards on top of bookshelf or similar freestanding units, which will be useful in their intended roles as book and storage/display areas as well.  So long as these are the same height, Ikea 'Lack' shelves can be simply laid on top of them (mine were skipraided) and a little ingenuity with packing pieces will allow a bit of leeway in the support units.  Moving the dining table to the right will allow you to continue to use it for dining, though one side will be against the wall.  Lacks are about 10" wide, not generous but workable and an advantage is that they will not severely restrict space in your room.  Diagonal or triangular fill in pieces at the corner will allow generous no.3 and no.4 radius curves for fast running.

 

Two running lines, an up and a down (trains 'drive on the left' in the UK) with a passing loop, allows for your three trains, and since you are doing this with your 6-year old son, allows for train racing as well; you don't have to be serious all the time!  Sidings for perhaps a depot, a factory, maybe a shunting yard, can be put in parallel to the main lines or in the corner spaces scattered about the layout in different areas so that trains have somewhere to come from and go to, giving them purpose.  A layout like this should offer as much 'play value' as you can manage, and don't forget that the lad, who might want to race trains and watch them whizzing around at the moment, will, if his interest is engaged, start exploring what can be done with it in a few years.  This is where an educational aspect comes in (but don't tell him that, you'll put him off), as he learns that trains serve industries and have to be shunted, that some are too big to go around some of the curves in the sidings, and that basic maths and geometry determine how long they can be, how fast they can go, and what loads the engines will pull.  He will also learn that trains must be sent along lines in an order so that they don't crash, and that some moves need careful planning beforehand, especially if there are two of you driving at the same time.  This is basic planning and traffic managment, and good stuff to learn!  He'll also learn the basics of electrical wiring, and will no doubt start building kits, buildings at first but then rolling stock and even locos.  A good kit is a good, and cheap, way to learn about the prototype, and learning about the prototype is good modelling practice.

 

One side of the layout could perhaps be for a 'fiddle yard'; this is an off-stage storage area for trains that represents the rest of the world that is not part of the layout, which can also be used to store trains until they are needed, and to take them off and put them on the track away from the scenic area.  With 'crossovers', sets of paired points connecting the up and down lines, trains can be routed wherever you need on the layout.

 

I'm suggesting a fiddle yard because you will eventually, and probably sooner rather than later, want more trains and space to store them on the layout.  Of course an amount of getting them out and putting them away after running sessions will still occur, but you don't want to waste play/operating session time with this more than you have to!

 

Your existing trains are what are apparently a number of train sets you've acquired as a sort of 'job lot'.  Ok, but don't buy any more train sets;  they do not offer realistic length trains and you will find it hard to use the amount of curved track they contain in proportion to straight.  Use setrack for this first layout, but consider using yard lengths of flexible track (Peco Code 100 Streamline, fully compatible with your set track) for the longer straights and possibly some gentle curves for appearances' sake.  Concentrate first on the units and baseboards, then the track, then the wiring, then test run the trains, then start on the scenery and detailing,  For this first layout it may be as well not to bother with ballasting the track, but pin it to the boards and fix it in place with dilute pva; this can be removed with warm water if the track is to be re-used on the next layout.  Foam underlay is sold as ballast for this sort of layout, or you can use paintecd cork sheet.

 

Hornby will probably be your main source of locos and stock initially, with their 'Railroad' range being suitable for the rough and tumble of existence on this sort of 'family' layout.  Other companies to look at would be principally Bachmann, a little pricier than Hornby Railroad but better detailed and more to scale.  Dapol are a mixed bunch, some of their rolling stock is pretty basic, and low-cost, but recently introduced items have more serious scale credentials.  Heljan are worth looking at, but I would venture to suggest that Rapido and Accurascale are probably producing very detailed and high-end models that you may want to leave until a later layout.

 

This is a very broad introduction to starting from scratch, and my bookcases and Lacks baseboards will raise eyebrows in some quarters, but I can testify that it works and keeps the landlord off your back.  It proved it's worth some six years ago when my landlord decided to refurbish the house and moved me over the hall into an empty flat for a month while his 'boys' did my property.  The layout was broken down into Lack baseboards, with hacksaw cuts through the rails, and stored against a wall in the empty flat while the work was in progress.  When I moved back, it was a simple matter of putting everything back, laying new lengths of track over the joins, and repairing the inevitable minor knocks and bumps; I was back up and running within about a week!  I find it a major advantage to have the layout within the heated and ventilated 'living' area of the property (it shares my bedroom), and this is the main reason my preference for yours is the dining room.  The conservatory looks as if it might be a bit hot in summer and cold in winter, and you don't want expensive trains on view to anyone who might look in!

 

The wierd curved table is too small for a 00 layout, but would be feasible in N gauge.  The 3' end would need curves of about fourteen or fifteen inch radius for the double track main lines, wich is too tight for 00 but fine for N.  A problem would be reaching into that back corner, and this is going to be a problem whatever you use it for!  It looks like a victory of style over practicality tbh, but you're stuck with it unless you can persuade your landlord to get rid, which may or may not be advisable; I find they like to be left alone so long as the rent gets paid on time, and it's usually best if they return the leaving alone favour!

 

[Harlequin]

Hi again Mystic,

 

I would say that No.1, the dining space, is the favourite because it’s big enough and comfortable to be in. (No. 2 is awkward and No. 3 looks like it will suffer from temperature extremes and humidity.)

 

So, can you cope with losing your dining space for long periods while the layout is set up? Do you need access to the cupboard under the stairs? Can the dining table be moved out (to space no. 3?) or must it stay in there?

 

I'm pondering how to make a simple layout in that space but a little bit more interesting than an 8*4.

 

Have you seen the new TT:120 scale? That would allow you to fit much more layout into the same space and I think you said that you don’t have any great investment in the stock you already have.

 

Edited September 6, 2023 by Harlequin

[Mysticpuzzle]

Thank you, @The Johnster for such an elaborate reply and explanation. I could envision the layout as I read through your post.

 

@Harlequin, I can dismantle the whole dining table and store it against one of the walls or in another room. No one cares, as I live alone. And as @The Johnster highlighted, as long as I do not do any permanent change to the property, including driving screws and nails anywhere, my landlord should be content. I can then get 2 bar stools and start using the table in picture 2 as the dining space. The space under the stairs needs access for storage. TT120 looks promising and I can consider it. I just have to think how do I get rid of the scores of 00 gauge tracks I have now :)

[Harlequin]

TT:120 has pros and cons that you need to take into account. As well the investment that you already have, OO is much better supported then TT:120.

 

So while you can get more in with TT:120 there will be some compromises such as not being able to get some of the parts you might want. It's also not so good for sound - there simply isn't the space in the locos to fit decent speakers.

 

[Mysticpuzzle]

5 hours ago, Harlequin said:

I'm pondering how to make a simple layout in that space but a little bit more interesting than an 8*4.

 

Thanks @Harlequin. Any thoughts on the above?

[Chimer]

Is that a through lounge-diner arrangement in pic 1?  Because if you can get away with never opening the door in the corner, one perennial problem for a round-the-edges layout is solved without testing your carpentry skills!  A short removable section of board at the end nearest the camera is much easier to sort out .... 

 

Edit to add that a fully dimensioned sketch showing exactly how/where those alcoves/buttresses etc fit in would be helpful for those tempted to have a go.

Edited September 6, 2023 by Chimer

[Harlequin]

1 hour ago, Mysticpuzzle said:

 

Thanks @Harlequin. Any thoughts on the above?

 

1 hour ago, Chimer said:

Is that a through lounge-diner arrangement in pic 1?  Because if you can get away with never opening the door in the corner, one perennial problem for a round-the-edges layout is solved without testing your carpentry skills!  A short removable section of board at the end nearest the camera is much easier to sort out .... 

 

Edit to add that a fully dimensioned sketch showing how those alcoves etc fit in would be helpful for those tempted to have a go.

 

The door in the corner is to a cupboard under the stairs so maybe it's acceptable to partly dismantle the layout on the rare occasions access is needed?

 

Quick sketch:

 

Five boards: widest is 762mm (for scenic depth), longest is 1600mm. I suggest just ducking under the thin board at the bottom to avoid having to engineer a lifting section.

 

Normally, you'd design the trackplan first and make the boards to suit it but this arrangement of boards should be amenable to lots of interesting track plans! (More than an 8*4!!!) Maybe just set the boards up and loosely lay some track to get up and running and generating excitement quickly.

 

The boards could be bought as lasercut kits with pre-cut alignment parts to ensure they all join together accurately. Each board should be easy to handle and stash away when not in use - easier than an 8*4!

 

Edited September 6, 2023 by Harlequin

[Mysticpuzzle]

Thanks @Harlequin. This is a great suggestion. On the other thread it was stated that you provide layout design as a service. I am keen to understand what that entails and how do I go about it please. Better than banging my head about on the details and use the first layout as a learning for future projects. Thanks.

[Harlequin]

5 hours ago, Mysticpuzzle said:

Thanks @Harlequin. This is a great suggestion. On the other thread it was stated that you provide layout design as a service. I am keen to understand what that entails and how do I go about it please. Better than banging my head about on the details and use the first layout as a learning for future projects. Thanks.

Well, not quite, but I'm happy to post a design here if I have time and if the inspiration strikes me.

 

I'm sure other denizens of this area will also post their own suggestions (come on Guys!). That's the beauty of RMweb - lots of people with lots of different ideas!

 

[RobinofLoxley]

Great stuff all round. Does Harlequins board plan definitely fit between the restrictions? If it does post the dimensions on the diagram to be certain that anyone venturing a track plan is on the same page. 

 

Just an extra question @Mysticpuzzle, where do you think you might go on terms of era in the future? Modern? Grotty Diesels? Pre-Grouping ? (Lol) etc. Might affect track planning.....

Edited September 6, 2023 by RobinofLoxley

[Mysticpuzzle]

Thanks @RobinofLoxley, @Chimer, and @Harlequin. I drew a quick floor plan (attached). I will fiddle with AnyRail using these measurements and see how it goes.

 

@RobinofLoxley, I sense my son likes "any rail with a nose" LOL so most likely era 11. But he likes a goods carriage too. It's never easy, is it :)

[DCB]

On 05/09/2023 at 19:37, Mysticpuzzle said:

Long story short, I am back to square one with designing the layout following some good advise from the seasoned modellers here (discussion under another topic).

 

I have zero experience and am doing it as a project with my son. How and where do I start?

Expectations from the layout:

Minimum 3 trains (2 passenger and probably 1 goods). Two passengers if three is not possible at all.

2 - 3 stations (must have)

Points (must have)

Road(s) for model cars, busses etc. (must have)

A tunnel (must have)

Double level crossing (must have)

Shed (good to have)

Turntable (good to have if space is available)

No gradients

No 1st curves (?)

Some non standard  requirements here.   Few layouts have more than one station,  two or three  were common 50 years ago.    Do you mean Platforms.
 3 trains, Total?   or running simultaneously?       With eBay purchases, refurbishments and re sales  I have been through over 100 locos in the past few years, and similar numbers of wagons and coaches, that on a layout where only two trains can run continuously.   I think this is normal to have  far more stock than can be run or even accommodated on a layout so most of us have fiddle yards and hidden sidings to store the surplus.  Three trains three  tracks is more a model shop display layout than the general style of home layouts.  I know the cost of new trains is horrific, I average about £15 per loco, £5 per coach £2 per wagon, so my 10 coach train costs less than a new loco single loco and one coach.   The rental issue makes life difficult I have a bed layout 76" X 54" which dominates a bedroom or would if not piled two feet high with junk, and previously had one around the sides  of  a similar bedroom at 60" above floor which had little or no effect on the use of the room, that was against the walls and attached to it in places. 
A portable layout seems the best option, strong and light, especially a lazer cut kits type rather than the 1/2 inch thick ply top monster baseboards you need a whole evening to erect and so never bother to erect it again after the first time.

[RobinofLoxley]

I think something simple is needed to begin with that meets the brief but is hopefully simple to construct, wire and operate using DC. The plan below uses setrack curves (peco labels but Hornby are identical) with mainly flexitrack straight sections (which can therefore be part constructed from setrack straights). The curves are R3 inside and R4 outside - its possible to make these from flexitrack. It needs 2 DC controllers, one for each line, and while the setrack turnouts are self isolating there are 2 places where insulating fishplates will be needed to keep the controls separate. The platforms dominate a bit but 2 stations were specified and ideally the platforms are as long as the trains, which means out of proportion really. The bridge top left is to be a view breaker. Tunnels can be placed either top or bottom. Fitting the level crossing caused a few problems, I guess the 6 year old needs to drive items across it properly. In that location the crossing gates hold trains in the station.

 

If this is thougt to be OK the breakdown into sections can be worked out. Most turnouts are on the same board, and I see that as being fully constructed where some of the others might have track laid when required to facilitate dismantling.

[Chimer]

I can see what @RobinofLoxley is doing there and it looks good, except I would tweak the pointwork in the left-hand station so a train running anti-clockwise on the inner circuit can run directly into the bay platform.  And isolate the sidings there, and have them as a single section switchable to either controller.

[Mysticpuzzle]

@RobinofLoxley, this is great work and inspiring. Many thanks.

 

I have been fiddling with the ideas that I got here and came up with the below:

 

1. Use IKEA Lack tables to create the baseboard. These come in 2 sizes, 90cmX55cm and 55cmX55cm which can be fit around the room. I looked at laser cut kits but they are coming up too expensive for my needs.

2. Leave space at the bottom of the layout for physical access for my son and I.

3. Deeper top end to add depth to scenic.

 

Now, based on the available working space, I did some work on AnyRail and came up with the attached layout.

 

1. Terminus at the bottom left for 4 trains. More than I need but my son can play getting the trains into various platforms.

2. One platform in the terminus to be dedicated to good delivery.

3. No 1st radius curves or gradients. I know there are 2 r604s in the plan but will have to swap them.

4. Enough scope for scenaries.

 

Where I need your help and critique:

1. Does this layout work? Anything I should add or remove? Want to check before I move any further.

2. I tried various combinations but am unable to come up with the tracks coming into the terminus. What I would like is points so that any train on any track can get to any platform.

3. I have placed the turntable on the right bottom corner so that the engines can get into the shed. I am not 100% sure this is the best use of space. Any other ideas? Or can someone help with connecting the tracks to achieve the turntable function?

 

I remain grateful for all the ideas I received so far. Don't think I can share the AnyRail file on here.

 

This is my first ever layout from scratch so please be kind :)

 

[ITG]

Looking at your design, a fundamental question is do you (your son) want a circuit to enable continuous running. Your end-to-end design obviously doesn’t allow that. Although of course it does support the notion of open access without a duck-under or  lifting section. Also it looks like you have a passenger station at one end, and a loco facility at the other. Where do passenger or goods trains run to/from?  (Edit, just noticed the small station, but still awkward to run to) Yes, your son can play at trains in/out of platforms, but where from?

it’s more usual, with an end to end, that you may have a station at one end, running to a fiddle yard (representing the rest of the rail network)  at the other.

Imho, the winding nature of your track looks more like a narrow gauge railway, not the mainline era you mention.

A good place to look would be one of the Peco plans for small layouts books. Old and maybe over ambitious with small radii etc, but would give you a good starting platform. You should be able to find such books easily on eBay.

Ian

Edited September 9, 2023 by ITG
Added comment

[RobinofLoxley]

12 hours ago, Chimer said:

I can see what @RobinofLoxley is doing there and it looks good, except I would tweak the pointwork in the left-hand station so a train running anti-clockwise on the inner circuit can run directly into the bay platform.  And isolate the sidings there, and have them as a single section switchable to either controller.

I couldnt see how to do that using only Setrack (my decision) without shortening the available platform length and the predominant trains are HST's so I've assumed 4/5 cars and long. Using streamline I would have put  a slip in but that affects gauge and i was trying to keep it simple.

[RobinofLoxley]

35 minutes ago, Mysticpuzzle said:

@RobinofLoxley, this is great work and inspiring. Many thanks.

 

I have been fiddling with the ideas that I got here and came up with the below:

 

1. Use IKEA Lack tables to create the baseboard. These come in 2 sizes, 90cmX55cm and 55cmX55cm which can be fit around the room. I looked at laser cut kits but they are coming up too expensive for my needs.

2. Leave space at the bottom of the layout for physical access for my son and I.

3. Deeper top end to add depth to scenic.

 

Now, based on the available working space, I did some work on AnyRail and came up with the attached layout.

 

1. Terminus at the bottom left for 4 trains. More than I need but my son can play getting the trains into various platforms.

2. One platform in the terminus to be dedicated to good delivery.

3. No 1st radius curves or gradients. I know there are 2 r604s in the plan but will have to swap them.

4. Enough scope for scenaries.

 

Where I need your help and critique:

1. Does this layout work? Anything I should add or remove? Want to check before I move any further.

2. I tried various combinations but am unable to come up with the tracks coming into the terminus. What I would like is points so that any train on any track can get to any platform.

3. I have placed the turntable on the right bottom corner so that the engines can get into the shed. I am not 100% sure this is the best use of space. Any other ideas? Or can someone help with connecting the tracks to achieve the turntable function?

 

I remain grateful for all the ideas I received so far. Don't think I can share the AnyRail file on here.

 

This is my first ever layout from scratch so please be kind :)

 

I see where you are going, getting used to placing objects within a prescribed location. Look at track laying tools relating to flexitrack, such as the tools to define a track length, a curve, or add a track parallel (very useful for creating parallel loops for example).

 

The layout ideas above are a bit different to what you specified earlier. You can now see that having a four road station, with track long enough to accommmodate your trains (which they probably arent at the moment, and then designing what we call a 'throat', the complex of trackwork required to get trains in and out from each platform, consumes a lot of space, more than you have. That why a loop structure is easier than a large terminus style in this space. Generally we find end to ends more interesting to operate when designed well, but it has to be practical to build it too.

 

One other point - it looks as if your larger boards are more than 1M deep, you wont be able to reach the back to sort a derailment. 80cm is a typical maximum for easy reach.

Edited September 9, 2023 by RobinofLoxley

[The Johnster]

The various points that enable trains on any track to get to any platform (we call this the ‘station throat’) need to be further towards the top left corner, as there isn’t room for them otherwise; this is the root of your difficulty in this part of the layout.   Check out a classic station throat design called ‘Minories’, a proven performer suitable for your three-road main terminus.  It will also possibly allow longer platforms. 
 

Usual main line practice is for an up and down line to run next to each other, achieved by concentric curves with setrack, ideally R3 and R4.  Yours wander off all over the place in a way that doesn’t make much sense tbh, with little jiggly reverse curves that don’t seem to serve any purpose and aren’t helping, back to ‘using up all the track from the train sets’ .  The shed is probably too big, and wide, with the turntable too close to it; space is the enemy.  I’m not sure it’s a good idea anyway; loco sheds on layouts like this are full of locos that sit there and don’t do anything to contribute to the play action.  Make ‘em work for their living!
 

Robin’s point about the width of the boards is valid, and I’d recommend no more than one Lack wide at any given point. 6-year olds do not have long arms. I would suggest retaining the continuous circuit running if you can, even if it’s only one road, using a lift-out section at the bottom for access. 
 

I think you are perhaps designing the track plan by making separate areas and then having trouble joining them up.  Try more holistic planning by starting at the terminus buffers and moving out from there in a linear way, which is more like what real railways do and will result in something that ‘flows’ and makes better sense operationally and visually.  Decide what the longest train is going to be, accept that it might not be as long as you’d like, and use that as the dimension that determines the platform length, which will in turn dictate the area occupied by the ‘throat’.  
 

Don’t worry too much about scale length trains yet, a ‘representational’ 3-car HST will be fine on a starter play layout that needs as much ‘play value’ as we can get in.  Your lad will want to mix things up anyway, HST power car pulling goods wagons, realism out the window, that sort of thing, and should not be discouraged, as this will be how he finds out for himself that HST power cars and four-wheel Royal Highlander coaches don’t ‘go together’.  Daddy insisting that this must only go with this will not go down well, but if you make up your trains your way and he makes up his his way, he’ll pick up the idea naturally and it’ll be good bonding experience. 
 

Apropos of which, clearly this is not just any old model railway/train set but an integral part of your post-divorce relationship with your boy in your new and less-than-ideal family life, and, I think, a very good idea.  Divorces are horrible (been there done that, got a headache, so I’m not doing it no more), and you have my full sympathy as you rebuild a new life that wasn’t part of the original plan.  The trains should be therapeutic for both of your post-divorce new lives as well as the bonding, which makes it the more important that the layout is functional, adaptable, and that it works in it’s different ways for both of you with your different needs.  
 

So it’s all the more important to get it as right as you reasonably can, and you’ve come to a good place for advice.  We’ll try to help as much as we can, and some of our views will be conflicting and confusing because that’s what we are, conflicted and confused, but all with the best of intentions, but it may be as well to bear in mind that we are by and large a load of daft old duffers coming at it from a ‘serious realistic scale modelling’ perspective, whatever that is; so be patient with us!

Edited September 9, 2023 by The Johnster

[Mysticpuzzle]

Thanks @The Johnster, @RobinofLoxley, @ITG for your comments. So valuable and insightful.

 

I get where you all are coming from. The only aspect I struggle with is creating a continous loop. The IKEA Lack tables are only 45cm high so there is no way I can crawl under it. Hence, I left that space at the bottom left for access. I know that 45cm is too low and will impact my back, but it is the perfect height for my son.

 

@RobinofLoxley, are you able to share your draft layout with Hornby part numbers please? Many thanks again for taking the effort to design it.

[Harlequin]

If the Lack tables are only 45cm high you can step over them!

 

I wouldn't get too fixed on particular furniture at this stage. Design the track plan, then work out how to support it and bear in mind that you will probably want to run lots of wires underneath the layout so using furniture as your baseboard might not be a good idea.

 

[The Johnster]

Yes; I mentioned Lacks because they are what I use and highly suitable for placing on top of furniture, in consideration of your rental situation, but other sorts of shelving are available.  I didn't particularly look for Lacks specifically, they were as I said a skipraid, and the right price...

 

To solve the wiring issue (I should have mentioned, apologies) rest the shelves on top of battens that in turn rest on top of the furniture.  You can then drill holes or cut channels to routed the wires.

 

A lift-out or hinged lifting section across the doorway will enable you to access the centre of the room whatever height the layout is set at (and, as your son is growing, the usual consequence of feeding anklebiters, you may want to raise it when he is a few years older) without having to step over or duck under.  Sooner or later somebody will trip over the layout if they have to step over it, or bang their head on a duckunder, sometimes enough to knock stock off and cause damage.  And of course it allows continuous running!  It is basically a simple wooden beam bridge, consisting of a piece of batten wide enough to take one or two tracks.  In it's simplest form it simply rests on battens protruding from tbe boards either side.  You will need some device to precisely locate the rails over the join, such as peg & locating hole or sliding bolts, and plug & sockets for the electrickery.  Posher versions would be perhaps hinged at one end and combing the locating and electrical connections, or be permanently fixed to the door, which requires some finely toleranced joins at each end.  If the door opens inwards (or outwards if the section is fixed to the door) and anyone else is in the propety, it will need to be locked from the inside only to prevent it being opened while the layout is in use; trust me, any system of preventing this short of physical locking will eventually fail!

[DCB]

16 hours ago, Mysticpuzzle said:

@RobinofLoxley, this is great work and inspiring. Many thanks.

 

I have been fiddling with the ideas that I got here and came up with the below:

 

1. Use IKEA Lack tables to create the baseboard. These come in 2 sizes, 90cmX55cm and 55cmX55cm which can be fit around the room. I looked at laser cut kits but they are coming up too expensive for my needs.

2. Leave space at the bottom of the layout for physical access for my son and I.

3. Deeper top end to add depth to scenic.

 

Now, based on the available working space, I did some work on AnyRail and came up with the attached layout.

 

1. Terminus at the bottom left for 4 trains. More than I need but my son can play getting the trains into various platforms.

2. One platform in the terminus to be dedicated to good delivery.

3. No 1st radius curves or gradients. I know there are 2 r604s in the plan but will have to swap them.

4. Enough scope for scenaries.

 

Where I need your help and critique:

1. Does this layout work? Anything I should add or remove? Want to check before I move any further.

2. I tried various combinations but am unable to come up with the tracks coming into the terminus. What I would like is points so that any train on any track can get to any platform.

3. I have placed the turntable on the right bottom corner so that the engines can get into the shed. I am not 100% sure this is the best use of space. Any other ideas? Or can someone help with connecting the tracks to achieve the turntable function?

 

I remain grateful for all the ideas I received so far. Don't think I can share the AnyRail file on here.

 

This is my first ever layout from scratch so please be kind :)

 

That would work with Brio wooden track.   It won't with metal track and electric trains

[RobinofLoxley]

Conversion to Hornby

 

ST231 - 3rd rad curve = R609

ST235 - 4th rad curve = R8261

St200 - straight = R600

ST 201 - straight = R601

ST241 - left turnout = R8077

ST250 short crossing = R614

ST240 right turnout= R8078

ST244 right curved turnout = R8075

SL-100 flexitrack wooden sleeper version =R8090