10ft x 1.5ft n-gauge layout plan help

[scottystitch]

The only unifrog turnout Peco offer in Code 55 is currently the Medium straight turnout as far as I’m aware.  I’ve not heard of an issue with curved Code 55s, in all honesty. I’ve use quite a few without a problem.  I certainly wouldn’t avoid them…

 

Best

Scott.

Edited November 15, 2023 by scottystitch

[Benatkinsonuk]

For those interested - playing around with a few plans with paper…

[AndrueC]

Ah that brings back memories.

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/6VvKDUFMjbX6mD5w8

 

Another satisfied AnyRail user :)

Edited November 20, 2023 by AndrueC

[Benatkinsonuk]

Ok, I’ve had a delivery of track which is exciting progress. I have some concerns about the reliability of the set track insulfrog points in the fiddle yard - three left hand turnouts back to back there. I think that’s my only option if I don't want to give up space? I guess lots of dropper wires and locos should be ok?!

Edited November 23, 2023 by Benatkinsonuk

[tom s]

if you have any 0-6-0s end up struggling when its test fitted you could swap the top two points with short code 55 ones and have that outside road be for the locos that might struggle on the dead frogs. gives up a few inches on either side though

[Benatkinsonuk]

2 hours ago, tom s said:

if you have any 0-6-0s end up struggling when its test fitted you could swap the top two points with short code 55 ones and have that outside road be for the locos that might struggle on the dead frogs. gives up a few inches on either side though

Thanks Tom, I'll just see how I am for space- that outside road will be close to the wall. I'm at that stage where I want to do it properly - but given as it’s the fiddle yard and I have the kit here, I might wire it in and test it, see how we go. I've had pretty good success with insulfrog points in the past but now I'm committing to a layout with electrogrog turnouts I think something like your suggestion would be good. Let’s see how we go!

Edited November 23, 2023 by Benatkinsonuk

[RobinofLoxley]

As the turnouts are going the same way you should be ok. On my old layout it was the crossing type arrangement with Setrack turnouts that caused me problems, fans never. This was OO though. 

[Benatkinsonuk]

Update! The cork is down and I’m working on the fiddle yard first, my thinking being if I can get that working flawlessly with all my locos I can move on to the scenic side of the track work after. 
 

I was having some issues with two older locos over the 3 back to back left hand turnouts. Some derailment issues on the closure rails by the looks of things. So, given that I’ve only got two longer trains planned to be in the fiddle yard at any time I think I’ll go with the below, with the option to add a fourth road to the fiddle yard where I’ve put the bottom point there. All locos ran very smoothly over this setup. 
 

I know this reduces the length of the right hand roads in the yard but for the fiddle yard I’m just screwing the track down and using Peco rail joiner droppers so it’s all changeable in the future. For the main part of the layout I plan to glue the track and solder droppers.
 

I may replace the short Setrack curve between the first and second turnout with some flex track. 
 

Hope this is vaguely interesting for those following!

 

Ben

[RobinofLoxley]

I would leave that fixed curve as it is. Much harder to create a short section like that out of flexi.

 

Each section that faces a turnout has to be set straight for about 3-4cm, leaving a much harder curve in the central section. Otherwise a kink may develop.

Edited November 30, 2023 by RobinofLoxley

[Benatkinsonuk]

1 hour ago, RobinofLoxley said:

I would leave that fixed curve as it is. Much harder to create a short section like that out of flexi.

Ah ok - interesting, again thanks for the wisdom! 

[Benatkinsonuk]

An update for those interested…

 

Track laying has been going well. Over half of the track has been laid now with just the station and sidings to go, although that includes quite a few turnouts and motors to go in.

 

So far I’m a huge fan of the unifrog turnouts but no issues with the two electro frogs I’ve laid down so far - just a bit more fiddly (optional) prep work to do.

 

Otherwise I’m very much enjoying the process. I’m doing lots of testing as I go and things going well. 
 

My only minor concern is that all the track is flat, so I will bring interest and elevation with the scenery, so I’m not too worried. 

Just awaiting the arrival of a regional liveried 158 to come - hopefully early in Jan!

 

Will add some pics later 

[Benatkinsonuk]

These brilliant 4000lumen LED batten lights have been installed this week. Dimmable, colour temperature controllable too and about £40 a pop with the wooden shelf brackets £7 each from Amazon. My only regret is not fitting them sooner! 

[KingEdwardII]

3 hours ago, Benatkinsonuk said:

4000lumen LED batten lights

Yes, modern LED lighting is superb and there should be no excuse for insufficient lighting anywhere.

 

Yours, Mike.

[The Johnster]

I use anglpoise versions of the same sort of lighting; 3 power settings and 3 colour temperature settings, so I can evoke different weather conditions (I mostly use the cooler settings to suggest a South Wales Valleys sort of climate, but warm summer evenings can be produced as well.  I use anglepoises instead of the batten fitting type because I am not a fan of overhead lighting for layouts; it highlights the roofs and does not properly illuminate the sides of locos and stock, and I don't want it in my eyes.  Even in midsummer at midday, the sun is not overhead in the UK, so there should be a good contrast between light and shade.

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[ColinK]

I do like your lights, they would probably solve the problem of lighting the railway room, but with the brackets coming down the wall, rather than pointing up.  Please could you let me have a  link to the batten lights you used?

 

Thanks.

[Benatkinsonuk]

On 14/01/2024 at 19:18, ColinK said:

I do like your lights, they would probably solve the problem of lighting the railway room, but with the brackets coming down the wall, rather than pointing up.  Please could you let me have a  link to the batten lights you used?

 

Thanks.

Hey, thanks - they are here. You do need to wire plugs on them but that’s easy enough. 

[Benatkinsonuk]

On 14/01/2024 at 16:38, The Johnster said:

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I use anglpoise versions of the same sort of lighting; 3 power settings and 3 colour temperature settings, so I can evoke different weather conditions (I mostly use the cooler settings to suggest a South Wales Valleys sort of climate, but warm summer evenings can be produced as well.  I use anglepoises instead of the batten fitting type because I am not a fan of overhead lighting for layouts; it highlights the roofs and does not properly illuminate the sides of locos and stock, and I don't want it in my eyes.  Even in midsummer at midday, the sun is not overhead in the UK, so there should be a good contrast between light and shade.

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Yes, it’s a good point, though I have the lights coming out past the half way point of the baseboard, plus there’s a main room light and window which shed plenty of light to the side but I understand your point.

[The Johnster]

Not sure what all that 'next page/previous page stuff is about, playboard was keying up or something so I'm using the spare.  The batten lights are good to know about, as I have six anglepoises at between £18 and £25 a pop, so your solution is a good bit cheaper.  I'd have to make up a fairly complex sort of frame to hang them off in the position I'd want, though.

[RobinofLoxley]

This topic should be moved to layout topics now its not a track plan issue any longer. ? @AY Mod

[Benatkinsonuk]

4 hours ago, RobinofLoxley said:

This topic should be moved to layout topics now its not a track plan issue any longer. ? @AY Mod

Apologies yes we have digressed somewhat!