Test track in living room of flat

[Liam]

I’m now living in North Devon, and although my local model railway club has a test track I’ve decided to set up a very basic layout in the living room of my flat, mainly so that I am able to run my locos in my flat. 
 

These baseboards were originally constructed around 9-10 years ago by a family friend of ours, and I was told that they were designed to a standard train set size of 6x4 but when I measured them a while ago it was more like 5x4. Nonetheless, there’s ample space for a loop and a siding as can be seen. *since taking this photo, I’ve swapped the straights around so that the points are now on the other side by the sofa cushion and the power connector is on the right hand side, joined to two small straight sections.

 

All the track is Hornby, and I have a Gaugemaster controller, which I’m told can be fairly easily connected to the Hornby power connector. 
 

The test track currently sits on the folded base of the mattress that folds out (the sofa is a sofa bed) - it’s the only space available that’s realistically large enough for it to go. Is there anything I should keep in mind given this (ie a baseboard on a sofa bed)?

 

 

[The Johnster]

Is this your first attempt, Liam?

 

Couple of questions, but first an assumption, that this is going to be a basic layout while you live in the flat but is to double as a test track for a later 'proper' layout.  First thing is that, if I'm not mistaken, the picture shows Radius One setrack curves and the turnout (point).  This will be ok for Smokey Joe-type locos, 0-4-0s, possibly J94s and 08s, and short wheelbase wagons but most other RTR items will not run on it, being rated for R2, the next radius up.  If you are going to be testing stock for a future layout I'd suggest relaying it in R2, which will allow most RTR except long fixed wheebase and modern long bogie stock.  There is room on the boards for R2.

 

Next question is, how are you going to level it on a mattress?  It is clearly not lying flat in the photo, on a fold-out bed, and without beating about the bush, you will never get the 100% reliable running that is vital for a test track until you have firm, level and rigid baseboards.  I know you don't want to hear this, but a sofa bed is never going to support your baseboards properly, not if it is going to be tolerably comfortable to sleep on...  Do I see MDF/chipboard?  This will need to be very securely braced if it is not to sag under it's own weight, and even the best bracing won't help if it gets damp, aiso (as you've found out) it's bl**dy heavy!  This stuff is designed to be used in a vertical position, for partition walls and the like.  I would very seriously suggest you bin these boards and build new ones, using good quality plywood for the top surface and braced with hardwood timber.  Lighter and easier to stow away, and in 4'x2' and 2'x2' modular sections can be easily re-used on  future layout made up of similar boards.  I'd also very seriously suggest that you support the boards, even if you remain with the chipboard, on removable but firmly attached (triangular bracket, bolt, & wingnut) so that it is clear over the fold-out bed when it is erected.  I would very respectfully suggest that the family friend who built the boards was well-intentioned but not greatly experienced in railway modelling...  It's not the worst, bloke I knew tried to build a layout on plasterboard, and Buffalo Bill Enterprises PLC aka my dad built me baseboards  with decent framing but top-surfaced with hardboard back in the Silurian Era when I was an anklebiter; even I knew that this stuff should be spelled with a c not a h, warped faster than the Starship Enterprise.

 

The Gaugemaster controller is a lovely bit of kit, and bombproof reliable; comes with a lifetime guarantee that the company will replace it with the current equivalent model if it fails on you.  Mine is over forty years old and happily powers my fleet of modern locos, shows no sign of getting old and tired  unlike it's owner.  The two feed wires from the block terminal at the back, marked '12volts DC controlled' feed into the ports in the track terminal, you turn the knob, and, so long as everthing is clean and in good order, off you go!  I like to have trains going in the same direction as the control knob is facing, and if yours doesn't do this, all you have to do is swap the wires around.  A Hornby dealer will supply you with the feed wires, with plugs on the end to fit the track connector, all you do is strip the other ends and screw the exposed bare wire into the block terminal on the back of the Gaugemaster. 

 

As to the layout aside from it's test-track function, there are numerous plans for continuous run 6'x4's, but operationl scope and realism is restricted by the size and being able to see the train all the way around the circuit; there is no 'off stage'.  Faced with this situation, if it were me I would go for a dockside layout where sharp curves, small engines, and short-wheelbase wagons are the norm.  Run around loop, sidings off the outer and inner parts, diamond crossings and lots of turnouts...  But my real advice would be to go for an end-to-end 'fiddle yard' (off stage where you put the trains on to the track or take them off) to terminus set up, which can live on a shelf or the top of cabinets and cupboards, an in a small flat might be no more than 6' by 1'. plenty of shunting, backing and filling, and some of the best layouts around are of this sort; check out Rob Gunton's (NHY 581 on this thread) 'sheep' layouts, tiny, deceptively simple, great fun to operate, full of atmosphere and detail, and all in all inspirational... 

 

Any PECO stockist will sell you Cyril Freezer's little book '60 plans for small railways', written back in the 60s and some of them involve some seriously complex baseboard building (doubt if some of them have ever been built or are buildable by a normal huming been) but still a good source of ideas and formats.  Recommended.

 

 

[Liam]

Hi Johnster, thank you for your feedback and your suggestions. To address a few of your queries:

 

Radius of curves - this had totally escaped me. I have a feeling that the curves are R1, as they’re basically Hornby train set track, I will try one of my larger engines on it, as maybe it could work, but I accept that it’s likely it won’t so I’ll look to part exchange the R1 track for some R2 track. 
 

Levelling on the mattress base - in my mind I was just going to tolerate it not being quite level, although I wonder what difference it would make if I managed to get the two halves properly joined up (for at the moment they’re not). I hear what you say about the quality of the boards, but I don’t relish the expense of procuring new boards when they’re not likely to be used an awful lot in the grand scheme of things. However, at the club we seem to have lately been donated old layouts and boards from locals who have been clearing out elderly relatives’ lofts etc, and I suppose it’s only a matter of time before we receive another one. There have been few complaints about the quality of the boards from other members, so if the next one we receive features a good board and of a similar size then I’ll grab it and dispose of these boards.

 

There is a temptation to extend the layout, but I’m going to be disciplined and keep the track plan as it is now (except for altering the curves), as otherwise I won’t have a living room left!

[Sweet pea]

Hi Liam baseboard don't need to be expensive. I use 9mm mdf with 2x1 inch pine for the structure of the board. £20 at the most. If not joining your two existing boards would make a huge difference. Hope this helps and good luck with the build.

[jamest]

Hi Liam,

 

Don't know how far you are from Barnstaple - but there is a shop called Small world in Bear Street.

 

He is a decent chap who can offer advice and his prices are really good - he always has second hand stuff too.

 

Regards,

James

[Dunalastair]

2 hours ago, Liam said:

 

Levelling on the mattress base - in my mind I was just going to tolerate it not being quite level, although I wonder what difference it would make if I managed to get the two halves properly joined up (for at the moment they’re not). I hear what you say about the quality of the boards, but I don’t relish the expense of procuring new boards when they’re not likely to be used an awful lot in the grand scheme of things. However, at the club we seem to have lately been donated old layouts and boards from locals who have been clearing out elderly relatives’ lofts etc, and I suppose it’s only a matter of time before we receive another one. There have been few complaints about the quality of the boards from other members, so if the next one we receive features a good board and of a similar size then I’ll grab it and dispose of these boards.

 

 

If the units lock together to make a rigid whole (perhaps a big 'if') then a pragmatic approach might be to have a supply of precision levelling blocks (aka magazines and books) to hand and a simple 2D spirit level to verify that it is level for an operating session. If you can get within a half degree then you should probably be OK - converting angles to gradients and comparing to the prototype should give an idea of what models might object to.

 

[Nearholmer]

If you’ve got a smart phone, you’ve got a spirit level. The app I use for it is called simply “measure”, and having checked it against a decent spirit level, it seems accurate.

[Liam]

Back in the flat tonight - I’m probably being quite stupid, but something tells me that setting up this Gaugemaster controller isn’t quite as simple as screwing the wires in to these holes then inserting the power supply and plugging in. Do all of the wires need to be inserted to the holes?

 

 

If only I was on hand to witness the wiring up of my home layout 13 or so years ago!

 

[RodneyS]

It is actually that  simple.  Connect the two left hand terminals to the track, insert the power supply, plug it in and off you go.

The two right hand terminals are not needed unless you have some accessories to power.

Rodney

[Liam]

Just an update to say that I managed to get everything working OK, as demonstrated by my 153 running. 🙂

 

[Liam]

The track and baseboard are currently dismantled, pending being put back in position. But as @The Johnster alluded to, the baseboards aren’t the best policy and I fear some grease from one of the screws may have stained the carpet!

 

I’m wondering if someone can recommend a mat that I can put the track on instead? A fairly thick one from somewhere like The Range.

[Southernman46]

2 hours ago, Liam said:

The track and baseboard are currently dismantled, pending being put back in position. But as @The Johnster alluded to, the baseboards aren’t the best policy and I fear some grease from one of the screws may have stained the carpet!

 

I’m wondering if someone can recommend a mat that I can put the track on instead? A fairly thick one from somewhere like The Range.

Try these - I use mine on a table top - relatively cheap - can make pretty much any shape - virtually weightless - easily installed / removed, etc etc

 

 

[dasatcopthorne]

On 27/03/2024 at 21:34, Southernman46 said:

Try these - I use mine on a table top - relatively cheap - can make pretty much any shape - virtually weightless - easily installed / removed, etc etc

 

 

Very helpful but what are they and where do you get them please ?

[Southernman46]

On 29/03/2024 at 09:22, dasatcopthorne said:

Very helpful but what are they and where do you get them please ?

This is just one place but they are available everywhere on t'internet & DIY stores - just a case of hunting for bargains

 

https://www.bmstores.co.uk/products/foam-mats-9-piece-white-377626

[BR60103]

They may also be available in children's stores or toy stores.  In very colourful variations.