Is it true I don’t need special wiring for Peco Electrofrog?

[RikkiGTR]

I watched a few videos last night on how to install these and in one of them was a “myths busted” section. 
The guy said there are no special wiring techniques needed for Peco Electrofrog points, they are ready to go out of the box provided you add insulated rail joiners. 
 

Is this… true? Seems too good to be true and that usually means it isn’t. 
I’m using Gaugemaster Prodigy Advanced DCC control. 

[Free At Last]

Whilst it is true that 'special wiring' is not 'needed' it can make them more reliable.

Edited March 12 by Free At Last

[kevinlms]

8 minutes ago, RikkiGTR said:

I watched a few videos last night on how to install these and in one of them was a “myths busted” section. 
The guy said there are no special wiring techniques needed for Peco Electrofrog points, they are ready to go out of the box provided you add insulated rail joiners. 
 

Is this… true? Seems too good to be true and that usually means it isn’t. 
I’m using Gaugemaster Prodigy Advanced DCC control. 

It's as true as 'You only need two wires for DCC'!

[Phil Parker]

I've laid them straight from the box, and while switching the frog using a point motor might make them more reliable, it's not essential. This Peco stuff is pretty good, and they do know what they are doing.

 

As far as myths go, I once was told that to use a Peco O gauge point, you needed to cut it into six pieces. It was the only way, apparently. When I pointed out that the layout in front of me used five O gauge points, all laid straight from the box, and all working perfectly, he told me I didn't know what I was talking about.

 

 

[Free At Last]

24 minutes ago, Phil Parker said:

This Peco stuff is pretty good, and they do know what they are doing.

 

Which is why they made it easier to make the wiring modifications for those who want to do it.

[Harlequin]

1 hour ago, RikkiGTR said:

I watched a few videos last night on how to install these and in one of them was a “myths busted” section. 
The guy said there are no special wiring techniques needed for Peco Electrofrog points, they are ready to go out of the box provided you add insulated rail joiners. 
 

Is this… true? Seems too good to be true and that usually means it isn’t. 
I’m using Gaugemaster Prodigy Advanced DCC control. 

It's true.

 

You can modify them if you want the "Rolls-Royce version" that addresses some potential problems but it's not compulsory and out of the box they will work fine 99.9% of the time.

 

[njee20]

It’s relevant that you’re modelling in N, where the flangeways (proportionally) are much wider than in OO, and therefore the risk of the backside of a wheel shorting on the open blade is tiny. IMO you’re much more likely to damage the point by cutting and bonding the stock/closure rails than deriving any benefits. Lay them as they are. Powering the frog is good practice to avoid reliance on blade contact for continuity.  

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

1 hour ago, RikkiGTR said:

Is this… true? Seems too good to be true and that usually means it isn’t. 

Right question for this circumstance. They work fine as described by the myth buster.

 

(OO perspective) But a dozen years from now and in near daily use there will likely be a different answer. Reliance on small moving parts to maintain reliable electrical contact degrades, heavier locos like the Bach 9F and centre motor diesels can bend the curved switch sufficiently that it looses contact with the stock rail. But that's fine, good long time available to steadily bond stock to switch rails and to power the crossing via a switch - on a motor or a control rod as the owner chooses.

 

What the position is like in N gauge I don't know, no relevant experience

[AndrueC]

2 hours ago, RikkiGTR said:

I watched a few videos last night on how to install these and in one of them was a “myths busted” section. 
The guy said there are no special wiring techniques needed for Peco Electrofrog points, they are ready to go out of the box provided you add insulated rail joiners. 
 

Is this… true? Seems too good to be true and that usually means it isn’t. 
I’m using Gaugemaster Prodigy Advanced DCC control. 

It's certainly true for N scale. For reliability it would be sensible to add a dropper for the frog and provide it with power rather than relying on the switch blade contact but that's all. Just be aware when attaching the frog dropper that Peco N scale turnouts do not have pig tails. Do not attempt to pull one of the underside wires out to use as a pig tail. Leave them in situ and either solder to them or solder to the frog rails.

 

(Oh and you only need insulated joiners on the V rails of the frogs so two per turnout typically).

 

Also on a 'non electrical' subject if you intend to use point motors you might need to remove the over centre spring. This is best done before you install the turnout but then you are stuck until you install a motor or a lever. It is possible to remove the spring from an installed turnout (I did it a few times on my previous layout) but it's not for the faint hearted as you're basically tearing it out from the wrong side.

Edited March 12 by AndrueC

[Butler Henderson]

The stock rail - blade connection can be a point of weakness over time in any scale IME. Another weakness of Peco points is the non prototypical pivot at the blade to wing rail. I have had one fail with the weight of a Bachmann 08 on it. 

Making the mods will resolve the first from occurring but not the second.

IMO they should fit all the connections anyone might need so the purchaser only has to chop wires they do not want and not have to apply a soldering iron.