Semi-Auto Couplings - Help Required

[TheEastSuffolkman]

Afternoon All!

 

Currently planning a new 00 Gauge / 4mm layout and looking to start on stock weathering, detailing and conversion whilst I slowly start on the layout construction as the stock jobs can be done during short evening sessions when I can't always make it to the shed.

 

One of these jobs on all my stock is to fit new couplings, as I'm going for a super detailed look on all vehicles but the tension lock couplings just don't aid that feel when on the layout. The other reason is that because the layout is being planned as a potential exhibition one, I would like to use semi-automatic couplings for shunting to decrease the need for 'hand of god' involvement.

 

So far, I seem to like the look and idea of DG Couplings and Dinghams, the only 'downside' of the latter being that I need to join the Gauge O Guild to buy them.

 

I have seen many people use and say that DG's are good for use in 2mmfs layouts (James Hilton's videos being the most informative I've found so far), but haven't seen anything for 4mm scale, although I know you can buy them for 4mm.

 

Can anyone provide a constructive insight to the use of DG in 4mm scale, or recommend any alternative for fine and unobtrusive coupling of stock?

 

Best Regards

Jack

[Nile]

21 minutes ago, TheEastSuffolkman said:

So far, I seem to like the look and idea of DG Couplings and Dinghams, the only 'downside' of the latter being that I need to join the Gauge O Guild to buy them.

 

An alternative is available from Pre-Grouping Railways:

https://pregroupingrailways.com/product-category/flippem-automatic-coupling-system/

 

[Penrhos1920]

5 hours ago, Nile said:

 

An alternative is available from Pre-Grouping Railways:

https://pregroupingrailways.com/product-category/flippem-automatic-coupling-system/

 

Unfortunately there’s no photos showing what the coupling looks like or how it works on that pages

[RexAshton]

I've used the DGs for years with excellent results.  I know you're working in 00 but 0 gauge ones are a better bet. Dimensionally they are the same as the 00 ones but are etched on slightly thicker brass. This means that the folds do not need reinforcing with solder - making them easier to chemically black (paint will gum them up). The extra thickness also improves the fit of the delay latch which on the 00 ones can drop down the side of the hook as it's quite a loose fit in its hole.

[garethashenden]

Sprat & Winkle and Alex Jackson are two more types of popular autocouplings. The S&W are a hook and loop, similar to D&G but maybe less obtrusive. AJs are the least obtrusive, but the most delicate and require a fair degree of precision when making and fitting. Kadees are also a popular choice. 

[davknigh]

4 hours ago, Penrhos1920 said:

Unfortunately there’s no photos showing what the coupling looks like or how it works on that pages

Filppems are essentially the same as Dinghams with a slightly wider loop and minor cosmetic differences for I imagine copyright reasons. Their functioning is the same. The couplings in this photo are Dinghams

If your curves are tight or your stock varies greatly in length Flippems might be the better choice.

 

HTH

 

David

Edited March 24 by davknigh
Adding info

[jcm@gwr]

Flippems were designed to be an upgrade to Dinghams, to cope with tighter curves, and be more robust,

and with the full permission of the original designer, Trevor Shaw, (before he retired due to health issues,

and the GOG took them on) They are also compatible with each other.

[drduncan]

I’m a fan of Alex Jackson (AJ) couplings.  They are very cheap as they are made from guitar string and very hard to see. There are jigs available to make firming them very easy. They do need care in storage and transportation as they can be knocked out of alignment if they are carelessly handled.

Heres the business end and more into can be found at:

https://www.mmrs.co.uk/technical-articles/alex-jackson-coupling/

 

Regards

 

Duncan

[jcm@gwr]

Ultimately, you need to create a list of pros and cons, that you need/want.

 

I think AJ's are very discrete, but I wouldn't use them because they don't have

the delayed uncoupling feature. I've used Linc's, which are also quite discrete,

but again, don't have the delayed uncoupling.

I don't like using Kadee's on British goods stock, it just looks wrong!

Also I'm not keen on all the types that are different each end, which means all

the stock has to face the same way, and more issues with using a turntable!

I'll admit my preference is for S&W, as the best compromise (for me) between

ease of fitting, flexibility in use, and looks.

[t-b-g]

1 hour ago, jcm@gwr said:

Ultimately, you need to create a list of pros and cons, that you need/want.

 

I think AJ's are very discrete, but I wouldn't use them because they don't have

the delayed uncoupling feature. I've used Linc's, which are also quite discrete,

but again, don't have the delayed uncoupling.

I don't like using Kadee's on British goods stock, it just looks wrong!

Also I'm not keen on all the types that are different each end, which means all

the stock has to face the same way, and more issues with using a turntable!

I'll admit my preference is for S&W, as the best compromise (for me) between

ease of fitting, flexibility in use, and looks.

 

I agree about the delicacy of AJ couplings and I wouldn't use them in 00 as there is just too much slop in the wheel and track standards for the couplings to line up with the required degree of accuracy but it isn't right yo say that they don't have a delayed uncoupling function. They do. The couplings drop on an electromagnet and come up "wrong side" so you can push and leave vehicles where you want.

 

My preference is for a home made fine wire S&W. Unobtrusive, reliable and easy to make. The locos just have a bar across. It isn't universal in that my wagons are single ended for added reliability and turning them on a turntable fiddle yard or reverse loop can make things tricky but in the right situation on the right layout, they are as near 100% effective as I have seen. There is no delayed uncoupling, although that could be added by soldering an extra wire on top to prevent the hook re-engaging. I just haven't found the extra work worthwhile.

[jcm@gwr]

20 minutes ago, t-b-g said:

 

I agree about the delicacy of AJ couplings and I wouldn't use them in 00 as there is just too much slop in the wheel and track standards for the couplings to line up with the required degree of accuracy but it isn't right yo say that they don't have a delayed uncoupling function. They do. The couplings drop on an electromagnet and come up "wrong side" so you can push and leave vehicles where you want.

 

 

I didn't realise that they had the delayed function, but I agree they look a little delicate, and the same problem

exists in 0 gauge with with respect to sloppy wheel/track standards.

[Izzy]

I think perhaps consideration also has to be given to how each coupling type works because this affects where the magnets need to be, and how it will all work. While it is correct to say they can use magnets some need electromagnets while how they actually achieve uncoupling varies not only between the differing types but also how each type may be configured. Different actions if they are delayed compared to non-delay. 
 

To give an example the DG’s need to be run over a magnet and are uncoupled once past it. Unless they are single ended you can’t part them over a magnet. There is no other action required. However, if you want to break a rake of wagons in a siding then they all have to be pulled out to where the magnet is, and then pushed back again. 

 

The SW’s by contrast need either to be stopped over it if they are non-delayed, (and it needs to be long enough to cover both droppers being pulled down), or for the delayed version the ‘soft shoe shuffle’ used whereby the wagons perform the stop/reverse/carry on ritual. 

 

Non of this looks particularly prototypical. A lot of faffing around. So you need to make a choice of coupling depending on how you want to operate a layout.

 

I use both DG’s and SW’s in different scales but, and I know this may seem daft, uncouple by hand exactly where I want to part stock. This is still far easier than trying to use 3-link couplings and also avoids all the hassle with permanent or electro-magnets. 
 

Bob

[Free At Last]

The DG couplings suit my method of working my passenger terminus without any loco shuffling or hand of god.

I have fitted the couplings with the loop on each end of a rake of coaches and the latch on the locos. Two magnets are sited in each platform, the first one at the entrance and a second one just over a locos length back from the stops.
A loco brings in a train and passes over the first and second magnets with nothing happening as the coupling is in tension. At the stops the loco sets back where the second magnet unlatches the coupling and then draws forward again, uncoupling. 
A pilot loco attaches to the rear end and draws the ecs out passing over the first magnet where again nothing happens as the coupling is in tension. It then propels the ecs into the departure platform or carriage siding and as it passes over the first magnet the coupling unlatches leaving the pilot loco to uncouple from the stock wherever in the platform and retire back to it's siding. A new loco couples to the train to depart on its outward journey.
It also works with a loco release, having the magnet just beyond the fouling point of the turnout/crossing.

[PMP]

The Scalefour society now sell the 4mm Dinghams, you can get them at shows. It may be possible to buy them directly,  as they’re not gauge specific an email to them might be useful.

 

I’ve used Dinghams in OO with a high 90 percentile serviceability. They take a little setting up and aren’t as fragile as AJ’s, see link for my results.

https://albionyard.com/2018/12/29/notes-from-the-man-cave-getting-to-grips-with-dinghams/

 

Videos here of them in use.

 

 

 

[nickwood]

16 hours ago, RexAshton said:

I've used the DGs for years with excellent results.  I know you're working in 00 but 0 gauge ones are a better bet. Dimensionally they are the same as the 00 ones but are etched on slightly thicker brass. This means that the folds do not need reinforcing with solder - making them easier to chemically black (paint will gum them up). The extra thickness also improves the fit of the delay latch which on the 00 ones can drop down the side of the hook as it's quite a loose fit in its hole.

I’ve used DG’s on my 00 exhibition layout for over 10 years. I’ve never felt the need to reinforce the folds and chemically black them before fitting. They are robust but far more discreet than S&W’s. You can have loops both ends and they will still work but they need to be accurately set up. As RexAshton has said the delay latch is the weak point, set it too loose and it flops around too much, set too tight and it flips up but doesn’t drop back down. Mine work properly about 95% of the time for the rest I have  a coffee stirrer with a small magnet on the end to lift the loop.

Talking of loops, the couplings come with phosphor bronze wire and steel wire. The instructions say to form the loop out of the PB wire and solder a steel wire dropper to it. If you do this then the coffee stirrer/magnet method of uncoupling will not work. Not only that but it is very fiddly to solder up. I ditch the PB wire and make the whole loop and dropper out of one piece of wire to a method I found with a google search.

There are more discreet couplings like the AJ but I suspect the payoff is that they are more fiddly to make/setup and don’t provide the same functionality. 
 

[Free At Last]

13 minutes ago, nickwood said:

Talking of loops, the couplings come with phosphor bronze wire and steel wire. The instructions say to form the loop out of the PB wire and solder a steel wire dropper to it. If you do this then the coffee stirrer/magnet method of uncoupling will not work. Not only that but it is very fiddly to solder up. I ditch the PB wire and make the whole loop and dropper out of one piece of wire to a method I found with a google search.

I did the same with mine. I think the wire I use came from a picture frame hanging kit from a bargain shop.

[nickwood]

58 minutes ago, Free At Last said:

I did the same with mine. I think the wire I use came from a picture frame hanging kit from a bargain shop.

I just bought and used the same steel wire that comes in the pack. Wizard sell it separately.