Jam's Weathering - A first for me

[SouthernRegionSteam]

Weathering has been one of those things that I have steered well clear of. Let's face it - how could I ever hope to make things look damaged without actually ruining them in the process!

 

Sod it I thought - let's just see what happens, it might actually work! So after browsing the old forum I came across a couple threads that could be of assistance. I went out and bought a few shades of Humbrol Enamel paint and a few paintbrushes and set about making my own 'works of art' i.e. a practice in dereliction. Here is where the story begins and as they say - photos paint a thousand words (so I best let them do the talking!)...

Before

After

Now it's over to you - have I done it right?

I'd appreciate feedback from those more knowledgeable than me and any hints or tips would be appreciated.

I have tried to copy prototype photos where possible.

[Andy Y]

Good start Jam!

 

You've worked the general grime nicely into the right areas on the side. It's probably worth getting a bit more grot onto the ends (don't forget the buffer beam) with a bit more rust on the corrugated metal. Then the roof will need to be treated similarly sympathetically. I'd also suggest getting the same grimy tones onto the front and back of the wheels or they'll stick out like a sore thumb in all those nice low level photos you'll be doing.

 

The inlaid trac is looking very tidy by the way!

[SouthernRegionSteam]

Thanks Andy!

 

I agree with all your points. I was just looking at the ends thinking that it could do with more rust. The roof I have been trying to put off but I think the time has come for me to just go for it. I hadn't thought about the wheels - that is something I will have to look into. There will certainly be a lot of low level shots as that is how I've designed the layout to be viewed - best get the paints out again!

 

As I'm sure you've noticed, I've shamelessly borrowed your technique for the inlaid track. Just need to buy myself a grey aerosol (already got the suede tan) so I can trial out some on a scrap bit of inlaid track before I commit to the real deal.

 

Thanks for your advice - I appreciate it.

[Andy Y]

I prefer to use an airbrush for van roofs to get the general vagueness of roof dirt with a variety of density and tones based, as you say, on photos.

 

Well done for getting stuck in. You'll never put up with anything clean on the layout again.

[Jamie]

Hi Jam,

Looks an excellent start, not over-done as is often seen, and not showing signs of 'presumption' (for instance: rust=dayglo orange, etc)

 

I'll not try and give technique advice, as I'm still learning that aspect from the likes of http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=86&t=17068 (can you tell it's a bookmark here?), but three things I have came across as being "moments of enlightenment" are:

 

1/ discovering the right consistency of paint: - not too thin and watery, but not just as thick as it comes out the tin

2/ discovering a nice palette of basic tones (I rarely work outwith a set of four greys, beiges and browns)

3/ discovering the value of a decent set of paintbrushes.

 

Each of these three things has helped me get a step forward each time.

 

Roofs are surprisingly difficult on satin-finish RtR models, but experiment in putting paint on and taking it back off by various means, not just by brushes (plural), but by paper towel, cotton bud, whatever . (I write that assuming like me you don't have an airbrush)

[SouthernRegionSteam]

I prefer to use an airbrush for van roofs to get the general vagueness of roof dirt with a variety of density and tones based, as you say, on photos.

 

I don't have an airbrush and I don't think Dad has either. It does seem the best way for large areas though. Perhaps I'll try it using a paintbrush and see how I get on? I can always use thinners if it all goes wrong.

 

Well done for getting stuck in. You'll never put up with anything clean on the layout again.

 

That is absolutely spot on! I've already started on the hangar... Where will it end?!

What have I started!

 

 

[Stubby47]

Jam, a cheap option for weathering powders is the eye make-up from the local pound shop - £1 for four related colours, plus a couple of applicators. So far I've got a set of browns and a set of green/greys - I've avoided the sparkly ones though...

 

Stu

 

 

[SouthernRegionSteam]

Hi Jam,

Looks an excellent start, not over-done as is often seen, and not showing signs of 'presumption' (for instance: rust=dayglo orange, etc)

 

I'll not try and give technique advice, as I'm still learning that aspect from the likes of http://www.rmweb.co....hp?f=86&t=17068 (can you tell it's a bookmark here?), but three things I have came across as being "moments of enlightenment" are:

 

1/ discovering the right consistency of paint: - not too thin and watery, but not just as thick as it comes out the tin

2/ discovering a nice palette of basic tones (I rarely work outwith a set of four greys, beiges and browns)

3/ discovering the value of a decent set of paintbrushes.

 

Each of these three things has helped me get a step forward each time.

 

Roofs are surprisingly difficult on satin-finish RtR models, but experiment in putting paint on and taking it back off by various means, not just by brushes (plural), but by paper towel, cotton bud, whatever . (I write that assuming like me you don't have an airbrush)

 

Many thanks Jamie (from another Jamie!)

 

I have bookmarked that exact thread and is precisely the one that first inspired me to have a go!

I will admit I find it hard getting the right consistency - that is one thing I need to trial a bit more.

Those three points are spot on though - my palette too consists or beige/red, browns and greys.

 

Thanks for the advice about the roofs too, I'll have to do a little experimenting.

[SouthernRegionSteam]

Jam, a cheap option for weathering powders is the eye make-up from the local pound shop - £1 for four related colours, plus a couple of applicators. So far I've got a set of browns and a set of green/greys - I've avoided the sparkly ones though...

 

Stu

 

Would you believe me if I said that is exactly what I have in front of me? I have 6 colours all in a handy case with various browns, whites and rust shades - perfect and they do a good job! In fact I got this tip from you earlier in the week (I think it was you that posted it on another thread somewhere) so cheers!

 

 

 

[RBE]

I don't have an airbrush and I don't think Dad has either. It does seem the best way for large areas though. Perhaps I'll try it using a paintbrush and see how I get on? I can always use thinners if it all goes wrong.

 

 

The airbrush isn't particularly for large areas it adds a different type of dirt. I think you really need to use all techniques together to get a full effect. In real life things get dirty through touching, spills, rust, rain, insufficient cleaning building dirt up in crevices etc. These are all added using brush and powders. Then as the trains travel round dust in the air and smoke, airborn soot/exhaust fumes etc blow onto the trains. These are best applied with an airbrush over the other work, not too heavy though, restraint is good!!

 

I like your effort on the van, not over the top and pleasing to the eye. keep up the good work!! As Andy said you will never accept a clean model on your track again!!

[SouthernRegionSteam]

Thanks. Sorry I somehow managed to miss your post at first.

 

All this information is very useful as it helps to bring everything into perspective.

I already have plans to 'distress' other objects so nothing will remain clean for very long!

[SouthernRegionSteam]

Thanks for all your positive comments and advice.

 

Last night I experimented with a medium new to me - plasticard - what a superb material it is!

So I marked out some sliding doors and cut them out. Frames were made using self adhesive labels but I am yet to make the door runners.

So far this morning I have painted them to look like rusty old industrial type sliding doors. I didn't thin any paint but just used the surface of the paint in the pot as it is thinned anyway (if you see what I mean).

 

Doors constructed using plasticard and self adhesive label:

 

 

I started by using Humbrol 160 around the edges:

Now spots of rust were just 'blobbed' on using Humbrol 160 again:

Now Humbrol 98 was applied (thinly) using vertical strokes of the brush:

Now a mixture of 98 and 160 was stippled on:

Edges painted over to tidy it all up:

And a shot showing both of the doors:

And a couple more in temporary situ:

Not sure if they are that convincing, but I'll let you all be the judge of that! I tend to find darker rust areas are around the patches and so this is what I have tried to achieve. Looks like the next thing to do is create a basic set of runners for them.

 

Jam

[matto21]

Nice Jam!

 

The van looks great [as others have already said] and the door looks great in the picture where your looking up 'over' the wall!

 

A great start!

 

Did you ever finish your Critter?

[SouthernRegionSteam]

Thanks Matt!

 

I've added the basic door runners to the tops of the doors and made another one for the other side of the hangar. I'll get some shots up later.

The critter is semi-finished but I'm still not 100% happy with it. I am sorely tempted to create a standard gauge critter though! I could do with a decent shunter for the layout. Small tank engines are hard to find and diesel shunters tend to be in the wrong era/are the cheap ones with poor running!

 

I shall have to think about more locomotives for the layout soon - particularly the narrow gauge. You never know, I might build a couple more critters

[SouthernRegionSteam]

Can't believe it - August since I last posted here!

Right, here's something fresh from the paint-shop (or my blog - however you want to look at it!).

Sorry for duplicating, but it's about time I resurrected this thread as knowledge and feedback from more experienced people on this forum is really appreciated.

 

Rusty irons and pontification

 

 

Here are some sample images:

 

 

The method of applying this weathered look is by watercolour pencils. This nice brown is the perfect shade for rust and seems to work really well.

You can also get some really good tonal varieties by just smudging the colour down via water. I'll be looking to buy a decent set of these soon and expand on my technique! I think it would also be suitable for weathering wagons which I will try out tomorrow I think.

 

 

 

Feedback appreciated,

Jam

[paulscot]

Jam, Only just picked this thread up. Going back to your van in the original post. I have picked up a useful tip from a US modeller in relation to doing the wheels. Paint the wheel rim and face with Revel Color Matt 84, not sure of the Humbrol equivalent, be careful not to get it on the pin point faces or the tread of the wheel. Once its nearly dry, which is not long at room temp, use a small make up brush and some Carrs dark brown and orange rust mixed, dab the powders on to the almost dry paint and tap off the excess. Leave to dry and you will have nicely dirty with a hint of rust steel wheels.

I have a couple of photos on the laptop that I can post up for you to see the effect if required.

 

Looking good though.

 

All the best Paul

[SouthernRegionSteam]

Thanks Paul, I'm not suprised you have only just picked this thread up, I have rather neglected it! That is a great tip though, thank you for sharing. Would you recommend going as far as taping the tread of the wheel to prevent paint getting in contact with that area? I'd love to see some photos of the finished result if you have the photos to hand. I have been putting off painting the wheels for quite a while now!

 

Thanks once again,

Jam

[mirreles31]

Hi Jam, just seen your use of watercolour pencils I've used this technique in the past but they were normal colour pencils, a bit of spit on the end gives a similar result. Strangely enough I posted a pic on my 'aerosol vs airbrush' thread this morning showing the use of pencils applied dry. great minds think alike

[SouthernRegionSteam]

Hi

I will definitely have a look at your thread, it sounds interesting. I forgot to add, if you do not use water to apply the watercolour pencil then you can get a 'flaky' affect which is very useful for that rusty look. I think I'll give it a go on some wagons now just to see if it works just as well on them. Unfortunately the only useful colour I have is the brown, the others are whites and bright yellows, blues, reds etc. I'll be on the look out for some nice shades when I next go shopping.

[SouthernRegionSteam]

I did some more experimentation with watercolours tonight, but this time on some wagons.

I appreciate that it isn't exactly the best job on weathering, but I am new to all this so I guess mistakes are all part of the learning.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Again, the watercolour pencils were dipped in water, applied to the sides and then wiped down using a finger. The excess is then dabbed off using cotton buds.

[paulscot]

Hi Jam, I don't tape up the wheel threads. Just hold the axle and use a flat type brush. If any does get onto the tread it is easy to remove with a piece of kitchen roll and some thinners. Will sort the photos out on friday when i'm next at home.

I like the idea of the wtaer colour pencils, I have a few in a set that i'll try out.

 

 

Regards Paul

[mirreles31]

Hi Jam, don't see owt wrong with your vans they look good, give the underframes a wash with thinned frame dirt colour or whatever concoction you use for the murky bits of wagons and it'll bring the whole thing alive. If you've got a sharp white pencil crayon try adding some chalk messages on the van sides, only a couple, don't over do it best to find a couple of photos to work from. I did a couple of vans a few years ago I'll see if I've got photos and maybe show you tomorrow. Cheers Phil

[mirreles31]

Hi Jam , this is a van I built over 20 years ago!!!! it's had a few repaints and weathering attempts over that time, this is how it finally ended up about 5 years ago. The base colour was BR bauxite washed with a weak black & white spirit mix, the underframes were given a similar wash of muck colour topped off with rust & gunmetal highlights. The chalk markings were copied from a photo can't remember where now but there's plenty of stuff out there. The writing was done freehand with a white pencil crayon (sharp!) it's easy as pie and if you don;t like it spit on the end of your finger will remove it, any smudging adds to the effect as these marks were rubbed off and re-applied constantly on the real thing. The torn off label is a piece of thin tissue (like you get with new shoes e.g.) lightly stuck on with any paper glue and guess what, torn off!! .

Happy weathering Phil.

[SouthernRegionSteam]

Hi Phil,

That looks brilliant! I shall have to go and do some online research and see what markings some wagons carried. I suppose could also do a 'COND' and leave it at the end of a siding. I do find that the underframes are quite hard to do, particularly around the axlesboxes. I tried it with the pencils but I think a brush would give me easier access.

Your photos also show I need to work on the ends and the bufferbeam tonight. For this I think I'll use paints as the watercolours do not provide enough depth of colour.

 

Thanks

[mirreles31]

Hi Phil,

That looks brilliant! I shall have to go and do some online research and see what markings some wagons carried. I suppose could also do a 'COND' and leave it at the end of a siding. I do find that the underframes are quite hard to do, particularly around the axlesboxes. I tried it with the pencils but I think a brush would give me easier access.

Your photos also show I need to work on the ends and the bufferbeam tonight. For this I think I'll use paints as the watercolours do not provide enough depth of colour.

 

Thanks

 

 

Hi Jam, glad you like the van. 'COND' is a good idea, I copied this mineral body from a photo I took at Darnall Shed in Sheffield many moons ago (it's an estate or something now!), where it was residing as a rubbish skip!. All the markings on this are done with pencil crayon! The peeled paint & rust effect was done as per Martyn Welch's 'Art of Weathering' book. It is simply a base coat of rusty brown then 'Maskol' patches applied subtlely, then painted over with top coat bauxite. When all is dry peel off the 'Maskol' and hey presto! one knackered mineral body . This really was a quickie job when I was bored.

I use an airbrush for much of my work now but some of the other methods are still good sometimes better depending on the finish you are after. Brushing on a wash of muck colour works wonders, I now use Tamiya weathering palettes to add the highlights to the springs, axleboxes etc. Cheers Phil.