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K3 61828


Guest Max Stafford

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Guest Max Stafford

From the same period as 60152 is this K3. Again this is a re-numbered Bachmann model treated more or less to the process outlined for the A1. I have again added a coal load to the tender and added a rolled-up storm sheet to the cab. The model like the others I've done would benefit from a crew although trying to find a variety of LH loco drivers is proving a little awkward. Particularly ones who can fit into the tight driving positions on most RTR steam locos.

Nonetheless, I'm quite pleased with this effort although I might lose the couple pocket and fit a cosmetic coupling to the front.

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Very nice, you've captured that grubby but not absolutely filthy look perfectly. It just shows that, with a little work, modern RTR locos can be made into highly acceptable models. I'm told that the K3 has never been a particularly good seller which has always surpised me. I would have thought they would have been ideal medium sized mixed traffic locos for anyone modelling the LNER or subsequent BR regions.

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Looks nice. I have also "done up" a K3, makes a heck of a difference since I dont think I can ever remember seeing a clean one. Like the idea of the rain cover. I intend to pick up another since as said they do not seem to sell well and they can be picked up relatively cheaply. They can be used on anything from express passenger, fitted freight (Fish trains), stopping passenger, pick-up freight etc.

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You've certainly got the hang of this weathering lark matey. I presume you are still using powders. If so, do you seal them afterwards? Like Theakerr, I never saw a clean one.....K3 didn't do clean around Manchester. It is one loco I would like a really off-beat sound chip in to add the finishing touch.

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Guest Max Stafford

Powders are only one stage of it Larry as they are intended to go on top of acrylic paint. The initial work is done by spraying the acrylics, then wiping it off from where you don't want it. A oil-based wash then gets applied and treated the same. It's at this point I apply mixes of the pigment powders, then drip turps or fixer on them. If I'm going for a clean, shiny surface, I'll apply some T Cut with a cotton bud and polish off with the other end (takes a few!). Then, a quick pass over the top with a spray can of acrylic matt varnish. This latter should only really go over the horizontal surfaces which is why I apply it directly from above and move over the job very quickly as too much on the model would kill all the gloss and make things overly flat everywhere. Lastly, get the metalcote out and lightly dry brush the body, just enough to give it a metallic edge on raised detail.

I then do the wheels and axleboxes with a gunmetal/light grey mix which you can also dry brush onto lubricators and stuff. A heavily thinned mix of metalcote polished steel and No 62 leather is then applied to the motion.

 

That's pretty much it although you'll need to practice and develop the technique to your own tastes. It's taken me a few years to come up with what I use now but hopefully it'll work fine for anybody trying it now!

 

Dave.

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