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TRIANG LOCO WHEELS


micknich2003

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Last week, I picked up the remains of a 1960's Triang B12 for a fiver. Almost a "Basket Case" but the motor worked OK and the frames were complete with driving wheels, the middle ones flange-less as was the practise of the day. Being a bit of a daft lad I decide to see what I could do with the wheels. To cut a long story short I turned the flanges down to a more acceptable profile, narrowed the pressed on tyres and the wheels centres likewise. The new crank pins are 12BA screws. I shall make new axles from 1/8ins silver steel suitable for "EM" Gauge. Rim insulation is a favorite for the "Live" wheels. All the reassembly was done with "Truloc Superfit 231" available from "Arc Euro", good stuff and certainly does what it says on the label.

The machined wheel is the left view. There is a packet full of similar wheels for sale in local shop, I will be there in morning thirty bob is the asking price. Mick.

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post-702-074551500 1285876516_thumb.jpg

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Nice job. I presume that the turning was done with very shallow cuts, with the wheels on a mandrel? This has given me ideas, having just had a major sort-out of my 'junk boxes' & discovered lots of old Triang wheels... :lol:

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Thanks for the reply, Mick. I just wondered if you'd had 'slipping' issues, but Mazak's pretty soft material, of course.

 

I have to say that altering a Triang wheel to P4 profile is a bit surreal! No technical reason why it couldn't be done, of course

 

Cheers

Mark

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Out of interest, has anyone managed to turn down a Triang wheel to P4 profile?

 

Dozens, they re-machine very well, (especially the Lord of the Isles drivers)....these are the Tri-ang wheels with die cast centres and the steel rim pressed on types. You will have to shift the tyre outwards, to get the flange to the correct position for machining the profile.

 

The outer face to outer face distance of Tri-ang is scale for P4, +/- a few thou! this explained why Tri-ang so easily converted to EM and P4, the splashers have the clearance correct to 4mm scale, even if the rest was incorrect.

 

All my early P4 was done before any commercial supplies with Tri-ang wheels in the mid 1960's.

 

I find it better to bore out the hole and brass bush it for better accuracy. They can be rim insulated by removing the rim, machining away enough mazak for a paper insulation rim, replaced wit araldite, and then machined true with a bored centre.

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