Own your own Lance Mindheim Layout

[CraigZ]

It is probably something to do with President Carter. We did something for them a few years ago and I'm forever getting letters from the old boy - impresses the postie no end!

 

I guess it is some kind of recycling store but I've never heard of one around here.

 

Best, Pete.

 

Yes, it's a recycling store...here's a list of dem dere in Noo Joisey:

 

http://www.habitat.org/cd/env/restore_detail.aspx?place=67

 

 

 

[F-UnitMad]

 

This does not have the same strenght though as the premade doors are jig assembled and therefor tensioned.

 

I had sag at joins due to this.

 

I was also thinking of clamps to join them, or at least, hold them together.

Another thing I thought of, was that as these are doors, and therefore supposed to spend their lives in a vertical position , how lying them flat for extended periods of time (i.e. years) might affect them? - would they sag eventually if not supported enough or braced like the 'usual' baseboard choices..?

[johnteal]

With my Day job Hat on (Builder/Joiner) modifying hollow doors is pretty straight forward, once cut you are left with a hole in the edge where the hollow shows. This is quite common when hanging a door and it needs to be shorter than normal so you have to cut too much off loosing the framing at one end. The simple solution is to use the framing out of the off-cut and gluing it back in, clamped til set.

 

 

Do they warp when horizontal - Yes ! Most cheaper hollow doors will warp when hung properly if one side is warmer than the other. This can be reduced by ensuring both side and edges are painted to reduce moisture. Different doors have different centres some have polystyrene some have cardboard egg boxing which general provides more rigidity.

 

John

[Colin Stewart]

Solid-top board, at that!!!

 

Thanks for the correct links Jack, the second one is the one I tried to post!!

 

Prof Klyzlr, you have summed up the operating potential just as I see it; both yards can be switched without encroaching on the main. I'd be tempted to try and "do something" with the central yard kickback siding, as it's a bit awkward to switch having to clear the Fuel/Elevator first, but overall it seemed to me like a plan that had had some thought put into it.

 

As for Ex-MILW Bandits, d'you mean like this one...?

 

 

O scale GP40 #2041, made from a Weaver GP38 and Atlas SD40 & GP35 parts (and snowplow from Colin; thanks - I got to use it at last!!) B)

 

What orange did you use for the "faded" look?

 

Thanks

 

Colin

[F-UnitMad]

What orange did you use for the "faded" look?

 

Thanks

 

Colin

Hi Colin, it was ordinary Orange Gloss (#30 I think) enamel in the Revell range, mixed with a bit of matt varnish and a dash of matt white. It was applied fairly unevenly - a bit 'streaky' as enamels can tend to go when thinned. Once dry, patches of it were rubbed down with extremely fine wet'n'dry paper (wet), and later a thin layer of matt white airbrushed over it to fade it even further. Finally the whole model was "Dullcoted".

I have found the Revell enamels (available at Modelzone) to be quite superior to Humbrol and Precision Paints, although the shades are aimed more at the Military/Aircraft end of modeling.

[Colin Stewart]

Thanks Jordan

 

Colin