rail_blue Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 What sort of filler did you use and how did you fill the area between the rails? I'm not far off this stage on my TMD (like you I started too big) and have been wondering how to make the concrete. Thanks, Matt Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poindexter Posted February 21, 2011 Author Share Posted February 21, 2011 What sort of filler did you use and how did you fill the area between the rails? I'm not far off this stage on my TMD (like you I started too big) and have been wondering how to make the concrete. Thanks, Matt Hi Matt, thank you for the interest. Here is the order I did things. 1: Attached droppers on all the roads (I'm DCC) 2: Marked out the area with 4mm board (about same height as code 100 rail) to form shuttering 3: Masked off the pits 4: Mixed the RONSEAL powdered filler with water and put in a dollop of PVA to a wettish consistency (Too wet to fill a gap in a wall but stilled formed peaks) 5: Spread the filler out and smooth it off with a wide spreader using the 4mm shuttering and rail tops as guides. 6: When the filler had hardened to be "cheese slice like state " ( you could easily prod a dent in it but it was basically set) I ran a old Lima coach bogie up and down each road to form grooves then using a pointy scalpel blade I ran it down the groove against the rail and the nearly set filler just spiralled out. 7: I then got a straight edge and went down the perimeter of the "concrete pad" to neaten things up. I also picked stray bits out of the sleepers and rails at the same time. 8: Leave to fully harden!! I hope this helps Matt Guy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimleygrid Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 Excellent work on the concrete Guy, looks really good. I have to agree with previous posts it is very neat and tidy considering you used filler. You must be an expert! I am still undecided about whether to use a filler of some sort or plastic sheets for the concrete floor for my TMD. Keep up the good work. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poindexter Posted February 22, 2011 Author Share Posted February 22, 2011 Excellent work on the concrete Guy, looks really good. I have to agree with previous posts it is very neat and tidy considering you used filler. You must be an expert! I am still undecided about whether to use a filler of some sort or plastic sheets for the concrete floor for my TMD. Hi Grimley. This was a first attempt for me and to be honest the camera rather flatters my efforts. As this layout is one big experiment and learning curve for me I am going to use plasticard around the wagon repair area and maybe the fuel point and compare efforts. Thanks for dropping by Guy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rail_blue Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 Thanks for that, I think it looks very good. I'll have to see how brave I'm feeling once I've got the track glued down as I'm not sure I could do as good a job. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poindexter Posted February 22, 2011 Author Share Posted February 22, 2011 Hi Matt Get a piece of scrap ply or chipboard and fix a couple of lengths of old track running parallel onto it. then have a bash. That way it doesn't cost as much to practice and you get a feel for how to work the filler. I used a wide spreader and used the rail tops as guides to rest it on. Guy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poindexter Posted February 27, 2011 Author Share Posted February 27, 2011 Hi all. Small amount of progress. Replaced all the missing sleepers where I've joined track together. Masked the point blades off. Sprayed the track with sleeper grime and cleaned the tops off the rails. Heres a quick pic. I do like the track plan when I look at it from this angle. Guy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pitbull1845 Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 Looking good Guy, that last shot is a good view, a nice gentle curve that flows nicely. I look forward to seeing this progress as the ballast and scenics are added. And of course a depot full of locos.. Cheers Scott Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poindexter Posted March 5, 2011 Author Share Posted March 5, 2011 Hi All I've tided the wiring under the baseboard (a little bit). And I got to thinking about point control. As this is a test bench for a future layout I want to try out different techniques. First off I want to do a traditional mimic panel with a push button diode matrix for each 3 way point and switches for points. This I hope will give me more basic skills in model railway electronics. After that I hope to install a MERG C-Bus system with the mimic panel provided by JMRI. I have seen the system working and I'm quite impressed by it. I have bought an offcut of ply to make the box to hold the gubbins and the necessary switches and diodes to do the switchy stuff. A quick bash on Paint and I had a mimic panel fascia. Oh and I've also named the workbench module 'Stockton Road Traction Maintenance Depot' This is a nod to the road on which Thornaby TMD lies. A quick chop chop with a saw and a splodge of glue and this is where we are. Just a quick note to say I've never done one of these before (I had not made a DCC bus bar or wired a point motor till a month ago!!) So if any one sees any glaring errors during construction that might end in death, fire or just plain wrong let me know. Please remember I know this is not a prototypical layout for a TMD. This layout is being built to develop my dodgy skills in model railways and to have a lot of fun with. I didn't even think I would give it a proper name, but I'm enjoying myself and decided I wanted to. Cheers Guy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poindexter Posted March 7, 2011 Author Share Posted March 7, 2011 Hi Long day at work yesterday so nothing done. But tonight I went in the loft and ....... Drilled the holes and fitted the switches. And made a start on the wiring I'm enjoying doing this, I think its because its something logical and progressive. Whereas scenics is more artistic talent and I was never any good at art!! I'll probably keep finding little electronic projects to do just to keep putting off the dreaded scenics. Guy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poindexter Posted March 21, 2011 Author Share Posted March 21, 2011 Right then. I am a very very happy man. I have just finished wiring the points and mimic panel tonight. This is a stage in model railway that Ive not been at before!! So lets have some pics. 1: The finished Mimic panel wiring. please note there is no LED indicators for routes, to complex for my little mind at the mo. Next time maybe. But you can see the wiring for the two 3 way point diode matrix's. 2: Next up we have the home made CDU (£4 in parts), powered by a 24v DC transformer (£9.99 of eBay) 24v allows for the voltage drop across the diodes in the mimic panel and CDU. I only had a 15v DC output on my controller and that didnt have the oomph to drive 2 points at once via the diode matrix (I dont have a AC output on my controller so I coudn't try that). 3: Overall view of most of the wiring on the board. And last but not least a video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Km2_OgAuGtk Guy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poindexter Posted April 11, 2011 Author Share Posted April 11, 2011 Been messing about with paints and LEDs on the fuel point. I tried 3mm LEDs but they looked wrong. So after reading Rammy's Chadwood thread my attentions turned to SMD LEDs They're very small! I soldered some wire to them and sandwiched them in plasticard strip. Then put them on the fuel point I still have one to make for the other side and the wiring to hide. Then finish off the paint. Guy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rammy Posted April 12, 2011 Share Posted April 12, 2011 You've made a great job of those Guy. Your soldering skills are obviously much better than mine! Which LEDs did you go for? Glad my thread was helpful. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poindexter Posted April 12, 2011 Author Share Posted April 12, 2011 You've made a great job of those Guy. Your soldering skills are obviously much better than mine! Which LEDs did you go for? Glad my thread was helpful. Dave Cheers Dave. I got the 1206's from a UK supplier off eBay I think it was £4.75 for 50 inc postage. Thanks for providing the inspiration. Guy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poindexter Posted April 14, 2011 Author Share Posted April 14, 2011 Finished the fuel point and glued it down. Really happy with the lights. I am happy with the colour choices though not so happy with the weathering. I have obviously chosen the best pics to show and tell and you cant see the bad bits. I seem to have left brush streaks and patches in the weathering washes that I didnt want, but doing this model has taken me a step forward and you have to crawl before you can walk. Guy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poindexter Posted April 18, 2011 Author Share Posted April 18, 2011 Been putting my first white metal kit together over the weekend. So here I present to you: Knightwing's fork lift truck Also bought some brass tube to have a crack at making some single and double yard lights. I'll be using pics from Jim S-W's New Street Layout to guide me. Anybody seen any other sites threads about making your own depot/street lights? Guy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob D2 Posted April 18, 2011 Share Posted April 18, 2011 Thats all looking good - For those doing concrete areas another method I found that works : 1.cut 2 layers of 2mm mounting board and postion about 3mm away from the track sides, fill gap with DAS clay, when dry sand to rail tops. I had tried plasticard but I don't find that easy to cut and my fingers have been cut more than once.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beresford Junction Posted April 19, 2011 Share Posted April 19, 2011 Hi Guy Great progress with the lighting on the fuel point and the fork lift - both things I have planned (when time permits of course). I'll be interested to see how your yard light project progresses - sounds like a good mix of brass work and electrics. Cheers Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poindexter Posted April 22, 2011 Author Share Posted April 22, 2011 Right then Ive been doing a bit of ballasting here's the pics. Turned out not too bad, Just did bits now and again. Seeing Phil Phil from Beresford Junction start his spurred me on. Fortunately because I'm in a loft It "Baked" pretty quick!! Overall View of Depot Fuel unloading point in situ. MGR hopper waiting to be propelled into wagon repair siding, which is the road behind the office block (could be some time, building not built yet!) Blue 37 sat in head shunt. 08 pushes loaded fuel oil TTAs into unloading road First attempt at weathering oil stained track and ballast. the sheen will go but I'd like to keep it. Prob going to Satin varnish it (Thank you GWIWER for the suggestion) Gotta finish tidying rest of ballast. But it's coming on. Guy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beresford Junction Posted April 22, 2011 Share Posted April 22, 2011 Hi Guy Looking really good, and being 'up top' has it's advantages some times ;-) Cheers Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackBlack Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 Hey Guy, can you run through how you did all the ballasting? And what did you use for the glue to tack the ballast down? Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poindexter Posted April 23, 2011 Author Share Posted April 23, 2011 Hi Jack I used the time honored method of applying the ballast (Woodland scenics medium) shaping and tamping it with fingers and paint brush than wetting it with water and a drop or two of detergent with a fine mist sprayer. After that I applied a 50/50 mix of water and PVA (and a little detergent) and waited for it to dry rock hard. When dry I flicked all the stray pieces of ballast of the sleepers with a screwdriver and vacuumed the track. The weathering was done with various washes of black and brown acrylic paint. Guy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beresford Junction Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 wetting it with water and a drop or two of detergent with a fine mist sprayer. Instead of the water/detergent, I used shower spray (cleaner) to aid the pva/glue to flow through the ballast. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rivercider Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 I have followed this from the start, and it is coming along nicely. The weathering looks good, and I like the oil stained track. I know what you mean about the oily sheen, where your locos regularly stand (and drip) soon messes up your nice clean ballast! cheers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackBlack Posted April 24, 2011 Share Posted April 24, 2011 Thankyou Guy for the info. I'll use that method on my layout. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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