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10000/10001


Pandora

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Not sure if this has been mentioned previously, but very good value for anyone considering buying 10000

 

http://www.dieseldepot.co.uk/lms-10000-br-brunswick-green-lined-orange-black/

 

http://www.dieseldepot.co.uk/lms-10000-br-brunswick-green-part-eggshell-blue-waistband/

 

Alternatively you can buy this version of 10001

 

http://www.dieseldepot.co.uk/lms-10001-br-brunswick-green-blue-waistband-yellow-panels/

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Not sure if this has been mentioned previously, but very good value for anyone considering buying 10000

 

http://www.dieseldepot.co.uk/lms-10000-br-brunswick-green-lined-orange-black/

 

http://www.dieseldepot.co.uk/lms-10000-br-brunswick-green-part-eggshell-blue-waistband/

 

Alternatively you can buy this version of 10001

 

http://www.dieseldepot.co.uk/lms-10001-br-brunswick-green-blue-waistband-yellow-panels/

 

Got mine from Rails Sheffield for the same price

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Picked up my 10000 yesterday and found a weird problem with it!!

 

It would only drive intermittently even though the motor could be heard spinning. On closer inspection when the drive was poor the wheels on one of the bogies were struggling to rotate.

 

I striped the model down and worked through the drive train, I traced the problem to the plastic inserts in the motor fly wheels which have the slot in them to turn the drive shafts, these inserts are only a light friction fit and could not turn the shafts. I have now glued them in but this may turn out to be a fault on every model.

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Has anybody had problems with the oval buffers not being level. I have two wonky ones on 10000 that arrived today.

If anybody has had the same problem were they easy to remove?

Actually there are three wonky buffers one is not as bad as the other two.

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Picked up my 10000 yesterday and found a weird problem with it!!

 

It would only drive intermittently even though the motor could be heard spinning. On closer inspection when the drive was poor the wheels on one of the bogies were struggling to rotate.

 

I striped the model down and worked through the drive train, I traced the problem to the plastic inserts in the motor fly wheels which have the slot in them to turn the drive shafts, these inserts are only a light friction fit and could not turn the shafts. I have now glued them in but this may turn out to be a fault on every model.

 

Not the first Bachmann model to suffer from this problem.

There was a batch of 37s with the same fault.  Mostly 37410 IIRC.

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  • RMweb Gold

Apologies for not wading through all these pages to see if the answer is buried in here, but, what day are Bachmann producing the Rails LMS 10000 representing?, will it be as built?

 

Mike.

A view of the Rails website will give you the information you need.
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Going by this... from HERE

QuoteQuote

The first Hattons/Dapol release (10000 in LMS Black) is very much a compromise. The body structure largely represents the loco as built in December 1947 (although it incorrectly has rainstrips above the cab doors) but the chassis is as modified in 1948, at which time the body structure was radically changed. Therefore, the chassis/body combination of the Dapol model does not reflect any version of the prototype.
Our model of 10000 in this livery will represent the loco after all the 1948 and 1949 modifications were applied, with the body, chassis and livery combination covering the period from March 1949 to mid 1951.

         it will not be in "as built" condition.

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Does anyone know where this goes? It was laying in the bottom of the packaging on my 10000.

One of those fell off mine when I was trying to get the keeper plate off, fits on top of the bogie at the inner end, you should be able to see the one on the other bogie unless both of them fell off.  It looks pretty difficult to put back but is invisible from any normal viewing angle anyway.

Regards

Keith

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Still have not sorted out the wonky buffer heads.

I had 10000 running on Hadley Green last night with ten Hornby Staniers behind her.

She ran like a dream for about 5hrs.

Very pleased with her. (Or should it not be an he as it is not steam!)

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  • 3 weeks later...

After a few weeks use my 10001 developed jerky running. I took the body off to look for loose wiring/contacts but got frightened off trying to strip it all down. However, I took the opportunity of blanking off the power to the cab lights (as per Luke Stevens - post #281 above) and now it runs much better, not perfect but much better. Anyone else had similar experience?

 

Graham  

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