ozzyo Posted August 9, 2011 Author Share Posted August 9, 2011 Hello all, just a quick one for yous, in my last post I mentioned about the arm for the vac. pump not clearing the valve gear. Looking back at the photos I've decided that they are not the best in the world so I'm putting this one up to try and show it a bit better. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 Hi Ozzyo, Well back from the hols now and time to catch up, I am glad to see a "warts and all" build of the jltrt kits, as at times I thought it was just me that had problems with them. My next kit is a Finney , so I'm hoping that will be a breath of fresh air after the last two builds, time will tell . Still dithering as to go to Telford this year or not , looks like they have some nice layouts lined up and that's without all the suppliers and their goodies B). It's the driving that kills it for me, I do to much of that in my day job . Anyway enough doom and gloom , the 44xx is coming along nicely, is that the A Shop in the back ground ? ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 12, 2011 Author Share Posted August 12, 2011 Hello Martyn all, the background is part of the local shipyard, the building is the Engine / Gun shop. It'll be about 1/4 of a mile long. It also has a standard gauge railway running through it. To give some idea of the size of the building the road in front is a 4 lane duel carriageway The island in the middle is used as a truck lay-over further down the road. Some more photos of it. If any one wants copies of them to use as a backscene drop me a PM and I'll send you the photos. Marty, why not have a look at going to Telford on the train, I've just got my tickets and by getting them in advance and braking the journey up have save a few quid. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted August 12, 2011 Share Posted August 12, 2011 Hi Ozzyo, Not a bad idea, yes I will make some enquiries as the old saying said " let the train take the strain " . For those old enough to remember ! ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted August 12, 2011 Share Posted August 12, 2011 Hi Ozzyo, Right after swatting up on fare prices confirms why I still avoid the Railways ( unless a steamers on the front ). Started off OK, £69 day return even though a weekend it was deemed to travel ( off peak ) so I wouldn't arrive at Telford until 13.50, now if I wanted an open return which enabled me to arrive at an earlier time that would be £227 !!!!! I could buy a decent loco kit or 2 carriages for that , I don't consider myself tight but also I'm not bl**dy stupid or made of money. If I use the wife's car I can do both ways for under 50 quid, just have to put up with the journey and the selfish and retarded drivers I may come across. Sorry this sounds so negative " I will be off rant now for the rest of the day " . Anyway here comes the weekend and on goes the soldering iron . ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted August 13, 2011 Share Posted August 13, 2011 Martyn Youve got to split the fares mate. I know it's stupid but there's some deals to be had if you know where to look for m'e it's half the cost if you buy separate tickets Cwmbran Shrewsbury singles both ways Shrewsbury Telford return. This way it's half the cost of a straight return. What's that all about!!! There seems to be a higher cost if you combine TOCs so split those tickets. I also pick up my tickets up at the local train station to avoid Internet booking fees. Hope this helps. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted August 13, 2011 Share Posted August 13, 2011 Steve, Thanks for the prompt reply , pardon the ignorance but what are " TOC's " ? I never have been a regular rail passenger so these fares do come as a shock, so thanks for the help. Regards, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 Steve, Thanks for the prompt reply , pardon the ignorance but what are " TOC's " ? I never have been a regular rail passenger so these fares do come as a shock, so thanks for the help. Regards, Martyn. train operating company - virgin, fgw, arriva etc. I know splitting a cardiff-york journey at manchester tends to make it cheaper and singles can save on returns too.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 train operating company - virgin, fgw, arriva etc. I know splitting a cardiff-york journey at manchester tends to make it cheaper and singles can save on returns too.. Thanks for that Craig, I thought it was something obvious , so obvious it had my wife and I stumped until I read your reply B). ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 16, 2011 Author Share Posted August 16, 2011 Hello all, I had been thinking about how to attach the rear sandboxes to the frames and keep a nice tight joint with the brackets on the valances and came to the conclusion that it couldn't be done. So I had to fasten them to the body. As the joint with the brackets is only about 1mm I made two small L shaped brackets to fasten onto the spigot at the rear. I think that the photos should make this clear. The issue with the vac. pump arm sorted out, and how I mounted the pump to the frames, I like to be able to remove the pump so I can drop the rods when I'm painting the frames Cylinder wrappers after annealing and a quick grit blast Wrappers in place, I don't think that it would be that easy to do these without annealing them first Drain taps in place along with a representation of the operating rod The way I shorten the top hat bearing for the coupling rods, the plate is about 5thou thicker than the rods. It turned out that the rods need to be spaced out from the rim of the top hat by the thickness of an 8BA washer to clear the wheel boss and screw Taping the crankpin nuts. All it is is a length of 1/16" X1/4" brass that I have soldered the nuts to, I use this method for drilling and tapping a lot of small parts OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 17, 2011 Author Share Posted August 17, 2011 Hello all, got the connecting rods fitted with the scale crankpin nuts and as I suspected there was no clearance behind the cross head. On the real thing they use a recessed crankpin nut So I modified the front rods, by drilling a flat bottomed hole about .5mm deep to take the rim of the top hat bushes. I have also soldered an 8BA washer to the back of the rods The top hat bushes in place in the rods. I have drilled two holes in the rim to tighten them up using a Romford screwdriver The top hat in place on the crankpin screw showing how much I have gained Screw trimmed back and rods in place. There is still not a lot of clearance maybe about 10thou, but as the front axle only has about 4thou of clearance their should be no problems I cant remember if I said that I use 10BA screws for my crankpin screws rather than the 12BA ones supplied by Slater's. OzzyO Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 Hi Ozzyo, Your wheels and rims seem a lot darker than when I chemically blacken mine, do you use Birchwood Casey or Carrs ?. ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 17, 2011 Author Share Posted August 17, 2011 Hi Ozzyo, Your wheels and rims seem a lot darker than when I chemically blacken mine, do you use Birchwood Casey or Carrs ?. ATB, Martyn. Hello Martyn / all, I use Birchwood Casey, but if your looking at the wheels in my last post they have been painted. I leave the paint on until I have done any work that needs the wheels in place, eg. setting the brake shoes etc. Once I have done all that and painted the frames I mount the wheels in the lathe and scrape off the paint. Before I use the B/C I clean up all the moulding pips and countersink the backs of the wheels for the crankpin screws and add the balance weights and give them a quick clean in I.P.A. (it's not India Pail Ale, & I'm not going to try and spell Isoproplated Alcohol) put on the B/C and give them a wash and spray paint them. I only spray the wheels from the front. Attached are a couple of photos that may help. Axel being done Wheels part done Wheels done Some people do the treads as well I don't, steel wheels on a loco or a wagon etc. that's in use will have a shine wheel tread. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted August 17, 2011 Share Posted August 17, 2011 Hi Ozzyo, I must admit that is a good idea to protect the wheels and rims, we had a complete new central heating system put in last week and had a radiator installed in my workshop. When I went to continue the build I was doing, the wheels ( Slaters ) had gone completely rusty , the only reason I can think as to why this happened so fast was the fact that the plumber's were using an aggressive form of flux that had somehow spread into the atmosphere when used . I have managed to get rid of the rust and have coated the wheels with a thin film of oil to protect them, but it has still leaves them pitted, not good. ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 17, 2011 Author Share Posted August 17, 2011 Hello Martyn / all, I have used Bakers No.3 for just about all my soldering jobs for about 10+ years and have not come across all the problems that other people come across, like files rusting overnight etc. A lot of this will be down to the amount of water in the air. If you know where I live. BiF you will know that I'm surround by the sea on three sides. To get rust you have to have two components clean steel and water . The water can be in the air, if you have removed all the oil from the steel you may get a rusting problem. OzzyO. PS. It's my night out. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 19, 2011 Author Share Posted August 19, 2011 Hello all, just to finish off the valve gear, here is a photo showing the modified crankpin nut that is now a screw, the new top hat bearing for the connecting rods and a standard one beside it Front sand pipes in place The frames after a grit blasting and ultrasonic cleaning, there is some staining showing on the frames but it's nothing to worry about as the paint will cover that up. All I have to do on the frames is to fit a length of P.C.B. to the up stand for the pick-up leads and motor leads to run to, and then masking the sidebars and axle boxes etc. So the next time you see the frames they could be grey or black. I'll try and remember to take some photos of them in grey. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim@dy Posted August 19, 2011 Share Posted August 19, 2011 Ozzy This question is slightly OT.When you use your grit blaster,to stop the mess it causes,do you use a commercially available booth,use a booth you have made yourself or just use the grit blaster outside? Tim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 19, 2011 Author Share Posted August 19, 2011 Hello Tim / all, I use a grit blasting cabinet that I got from Machine Mart, IIRC it was about £100. The grit came from E bay and a small bag-less vacuum from Tesco. The compressor is a 2.5h.p. one from Aldi. The cabinet uses approx. 10 cubic feet of air per min. I also have a vapour trap just before the connection to the cabinet The cabinet it's about 2' long buy about 18" h x 18" d The gun that comes with the cabinet, you get a chose of four nozzles to use with the gun You still get a bit of airborne grit but not anything like when I was just using a plastic box to blast into HTH OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 22, 2011 Author Share Posted August 22, 2011 Hello all, to start off with cutting the PCB for the pick-up wires and motor terminal wires, if this loco was going to have DCC fitted the chip would be mounted on the other side of the up stand to the PCB I did remember to take some photos of the frames in grey The cylinder wrappers with a coat of satin black on them The frames with there coat of matt black on them.I find that the matt black from the rattle cans is not as matt as the Humbrol matt black. It has not shown up on the photos that well but you can see the difference in the flesh A very close up shot of one of the cylinders and slide bars The wheels, pick-ups, motor and coupling rods fitted. It was test run in this condition for about an hour. You can see the PCB just in front of the motor, this has all the pick-up and motor wires soldered to it Two more views of the frames complete apart from the pony trucks As you can see the frames are just about complete which is just as well as I am now on photo No.199a, the body work photos start at No.200. OzzyO Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 25, 2011 Author Share Posted August 25, 2011 Hello all, while this was going on, running in the frames (chassis). The weights may look a lot but are only about 1Lbs I then had a brainwave, how am I going to fit the backhead in to the cab? The answer came to me in a shot. And this is what happened. First fit a bracket towards the back of the (cab) footplate and drill it for 12BA screws Then cut out all the cab floor! This was what I was left with, it's not nice! Anyway onwards and upwards as some may say, the mounting bracket for the backhead The backhead now in place, trying not to put my fingers through the cab roof space The footplate (cab floor) now back in place And from above. After the backhead details have been put on, this will be one of the last times that I will be able to take one of these shots , as the cab roof will then be soldered on OzzyO. PS. the arrow keys don't seem to be working in this post, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted August 25, 2011 Share Posted August 25, 2011 Top notch stuff there mate. Got my roof on to today, bring on the rain !!!!!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 28, 2011 Author Share Posted August 28, 2011 Top notch stuff there mate. Got my roof on to today, bring on the rain !!!!!!! and it did I believe. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted August 28, 2011 Share Posted August 28, 2011 yes mate I think some one up stairs was testing my roofing skills,, No leaks Though. Ranelagh bridge will have a home soon ish!!!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted August 29, 2011 Author Share Posted August 29, 2011 Hello all, it's backhead (or boiler front) time. I wont say much on this post as I think that the photos will do the talking. First fit in to the cab with all the fittings in place, it was a bit of a fight to get it in this time Pressure gauge and vacuum gauge fitted to the cab front Win a lollipop, who will be the first to tell me what I have forgot to fit on the backhead? OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 Tea flask and tin of Golden Virginia B) . Nice work Ozzyo . Martyn. P.S. Cab roof heater coils ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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