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Flush Doors as baseboards


westernglory

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Good morning all,

 

I'm designing an L-shaped layout for which the depth front to back (2ft 6in) would seem to lend itself to potentially using flush doors (6ft 6in x 2ft 6in)as baseboards. I would need to use four such doors in the L shape configuration.

 

I've seen various modellers using flush doors for maybe a single baseboard, but am wondering about the practicality and the durability of using multiple doors?

 

For someone who is not maybe the best carpenter in the world, such a solution appears attractive, but not if problems are likely.

 

Any thoughts or first hand experience on the matter would be very much appreciated.

 

Thanks.

 

Steve

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Arguments for:

  • They're convenient
  • They're relatively cheap

Arguments against

  1. They flex without additional braciing
  2. They're ususlly made of some type of hardboard - not the most suitable of baseboard materials
  3. As the surface as part of the structure (it's a tensioned structure) then cutting into it for, say, point motors, reduces the integrity of the structure, causing more problems as in (1) above
  4. The frame is very insubstantial i.e. the wood's too thin.
  5. They're too darned big to move around without damaging the things that are on it or the infrastructure of the house.
  6. It also takes two people to move them around. While this may not seem to be a problem on a permanent layout being able to turn the boards opn their side for wiring and maintenance is a definite plus.
  7. You still need to provide legs. You can't attach them easily because of (5) above
  8. If they are permanent along a wall (say) you're going to have occasions that you're going to want to work along the back. Is it practicable for you to reach for long periods over a 2' 6" reach without damaging the stuff on the front
  9. A door with a layout on it is going to be much heavier than a layoutless door.
  10. Given (9), (5) and (6) if you do try to move them by yourself then from a personal safety point of view it's going to be inadvisable.
  11. 4ft by 2ft seems to be the biggest board that most people use. Even that sometimes can be difficult to move around. That 8 sq ft. A 6' 6" by 2 '6" door is 16.25 sq ft

I'll stop now.

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Flush doors normally have a decent frame for structure, the construction of them is, as you may be aware, a hardboard skin with a wooden outer frame, mid way down one side there is extra wood to allow for fitting of the door latch / lock.

 

They are normally a cardboard honeycomb structure inside - I did use one as a desk for about 3 years, often with a fair amount of stuff piled on it so can vouch for strength of them.

 

in terms of joining them together, if you're after a permanent join then you can do it in a similar way to kitchen worktops where you use a router to cut a slot in the side of the frame, slip a bit of plywood into it and slot together.

 

if you're wanting to split the layout into door size sections then an alternative method of joining them may be needed so that they can be moved individually.

 

I would recommend supporting the door in the middle as they can sag with time, although I had a computer sat on mine.

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Durability wise you should have no issues. Doors are designed to be opened and closed hitting the door frame many many times.

If you intend to use below board point motors I would avoid doors.

Something else to remember is that this is a big board and if you intend to move it about it becomes a pain especially if you add a back scene. From personal experience moving a layout board that is a 6 foot x 1 foot x 2 foot cube is not always easy This is a light weight unit as well.

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My cousin had doors for his layout 20-25 years ago. With the honycomb structure they just ampified the noise (it was horendous). If I can remember it from 20 odd years ago, then it must have been bad.

 

Just my 2 pence worth.

 

Best regards,

 

Mark

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I think they get used a lot in the USA, where they are available in multiple lengths and widths - when used this way they usually hacve a 2" layer of the pink or blue foam bonded to the top and have a 4" or 6" strip of ply glued to the end, allowing them to be joined together with G clamps. Lance Mindheim likes them for layouts but theirs are a standard 80" length and are veneer covered, he does say that they can be cut down without compromising integrity. He mounts shelf layouts on walls with using Spur-type shelving - but note that the shelves may have a slight slope and need a small piece of packing to level them front to back

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Back to my point about cutting flush doors. They're designed to be used whole, the skins being part of the strength. They're also designed to be used vertically. Putting them horizontal and cutting chunks out of them removes then from their designed usage. If then you overstress them it can lead to catastrpohic failure.

 

I've also used a door for a computer desk for my son, but didn't cut it and it stayed up for several years until we redesigned the room.

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Arguments for:

  • They're convenient
  • They're relatively cheap

Arguments against

I agree completely with all the arguments against and a few others as well.

 

The only convenience with them is that they can be bought ready made from most DIY stores. Other than that they are very inconvenient.

As for cheap. That is very false economy. Skimping on your baseboard is about the worst thing you can do. Everything on your layout depends on it.

If you are a total blank when it comes to basic woodwork then pay a professional to get one made. But it is a simple skill easily learned. You need nothing more than a saw, a right angle square and some clamps.

 

Your baseboard should be carefully planned with your layout in mind, it should not be a rushed job and plucked off the shelf.

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