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Motor for Nu-Cast ex-GER E4 2-4-0 (00)


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Hi all, this is my first post to RMweb. I'm asking this question on behalf of a friend who has a query about suitable replacement for a K's motor for the above loco, which unfortunately burned-out recently. Can anyone with any idea of a suitable replacement please advise?

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Hi all, this is my first post to RMweb. I'm asking this question on behalf of a friend who has a query about suitable replacement for a K's motor for the above loco, which unfortunately burned-out recently. Can anyone with any idea of a suitable replacement please advise?

 

Gosh! A K's motor burnt out! Sorry, but K's motors were generally regarded as awful.

 

Which one – there were three, all different sizes. I suggest your friend measures the motor and then tries to find one of similar dimensions. The Mashima range (and others too) number their models based on width and length so it should be easy enough to find an equivalent. May have to change the gears/gearbox as well.

 

Or there are the open frame motors such as D11/D13 which I think are still available from Branchlines – they would be a more direct replacement. Don't get a DS10 as it isn't strong enough to lug a heavy white metal engine around...

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If you have not found it already, this is the section of this forum that should repay examination http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php/forum/95-motors-drive-systems/

 

Having experienced both this kit and the similar J15 in in their original Stephen Poole form, how prepared might your friend be to take a side cutter in a high speed rotary tool to the interior of the very heavyweight castings? Creating a litle extra width and height in the motor space enables a decent sized Mashima can motor (1224 or similar) to sit with the motor shaft parallel to the rails, with the dirve then carried to the axle via a two stage gearbox. This enables the motor to sit a little further forward, so that the boiler backhead and cab floor may be better represented.

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I would add to the advice that modern motors and especially gear boxes are the best option. However your friend may not want to go down that route.

 

First question is it one of the open double shafted (mk 2s etc) metal motors or the plastic HMP type ?

 

These do come up quite often on Ebay, or even beter put an add in the wanted section on this site, I guess many members have them is their spares boxes.

 

Being mecenary a cheaper option may be to buy a cheap kit built loco with the correct motor (not much more than some motors go for), then sell on the body and chassis either together or seperatly ang get most of your money back

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Thanks for the advice everyone! B)

"34theletter" - I did originally post therein, but had no replies and few views. Andy Y moved it here for me.

I'll have to pass on your advice to him and see what he wants to do.

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If you're still working on it in May and you're planning on attending Ely show, let me know and I'll bring mine with me. I can't recall ATM what it has except that it's open frame and I think may even have a flywheel.

 

Thanks. As I said, it's not my loco, and I don't know whether my friend will be going to Ely, but, if all else fails, I'll let him know.

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If the motor is a K's with the steel faces, double shafts and comes from the 60/70 period , then they may not have burnt out, the brushes may just need replacement. Any round ones, filed to size will do from other makes. The later plastic bearing type K's motor do tend to burn out!!

Stephen.

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If the motor is a K's with the steel faces, double shafts and comes from the 60/70 period , then they may not have burnt out, the brushes may just need replacement. Any round ones, filed to size will do from other makes. The later plastic bearing type K's motor do tend to burn out!!

Stephen.

 

Well, he told me that there was a puff of white smoke, a burning smell etc., so I'm guessing it burned-out LOL!:lol:

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  • 10 months later...

An update on this story - today we ran the loco on our layout, and it ran brilliantly. In the end, he used the motor from a Hornby B12 (quite appropriate given that both are ex-GER types).

 

Thanks to all those who kindly provided advice.

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