Class 121

[Gilbert]

Greetings

I'm thinking of getting one of these with a view to installing some buffer beam details and hand rails - is it worth it and what detail parts would you recommend. Would it be better to just buy the Craftsman 121 conversion kit and ditch the new end into the spares box.

I'm also fairly sure I recall a reference on RMWeb to lowering the body as well?

I'd like a green one and I'd like to leave the paintwork on the body alone if possible.

Any suggestions on a suitable sound chip if the thing comes off - and is it possible to get the body shell as a spare if it does not!

Just a few questions then!

Thanks

Chris

[Pannier Tank]

Take a look here:-

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php/blog/69/entry-1285-penhydd-bubblecar-progress/

[lapford34102]

Hi,

The 121 is a sound model considering it must be about 20 years old now but is pretty basic compared to contempory offerings. You can do as much work on it as you want and you've already noted some of the usual embellishments. A far from exhaustive list but a few ideas.

Handrails - which you've mentioned.

On the bufferbeam I'd forget the Craftsman detail kit which includes some naffish W/M buffers and try and track down a set of Craftsman DMU jumpers cables which are usuable and look the part (not sure how easy it is to get Craftsman stuff these days perhaps someone can comment)

Screw coupling, vac pipes plus some brass buffers. Depending on how finicky you are you might want to check prototype photo's as the had distinct phases when they used different types of buffer.

Replace the roof vents with W/M ones and while you're on the roof fill in the engraved panel lines.

You can also add the bogie footboards and bufferbeam mounted lamp irons. JWS was (has ?) doing an etch for these.

Lowering the body/rewheeling with correct sized wheels does improve the look but I've never bothered.

Get rid of the ridiculous destination board which is printed on the outside of the centre windscreen. It's a pain to remove it but worth it.

Paint interior and cab.

The Hornby paint finish is very good and although the pinstripe on the green versions is oversized it's not worth the effort of repainting IMHO.

If you've a spare 5 mins there's some pics of my efforts scattered about in

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=3395&start=50

Cheers

Stu

[backwaterscotland]

 

On the bufferbeam I'd forget the Craftsman detail kit which includes some naffish W/M buffers and try and track down a set of Craftsman DMU jumpers cables which are usuable and look the part (not sure how easy it is to get Craftsman stuff these days perhaps someone can comment)

 

 

All of the individual craftsman parts are available direct from Craftsman - http://www.craftsmanmodels.co.uk/

 

Andy B)

[Ragtag]

Howes also stock a decent range of Craftsman.

 

Usual disclaimer etc

[Bazza]

Hi there,

To me the most immediately noticeable thing that is wrong with this model is the seating. The high back seats look more like the ones on the Marylebone and St Pancras - Bedford units. If you are going to make the other changes suggested, add changing the seats too.

 

Bazza

[Gilbert]

Thanks to all for the comments and help. I did manage to find a green one at NEC yesterday along with some brass Oleos, some vents and a few other Craftsman bits - I've already got a few buffer beam details from a spare Hornby 08 packet so I just need to decide if the roof is going to get filled...I just wantto get the thiung running smoothly before I invest masses of effort in it!

Chris

[edcayton]

How much better than the old Lima version is the Hornby one(if at all). I have found the Hornby one new for ??40-50, or is it worth saving a few bob and getting a second-hand Lima one?

 

Ed

[Gilbert]

I don't have any knowledge of the Lima model but the Hornby one I got yesterday is not bad - obviously not as good as newer Bachmann DMus and I'm not sure about the pancake motor but I think its a good start

Nigel Burkin has used a couple for projects in BRM this year - have a look at those articles if you can.

Chris

[DLPG]

I have had one for just over a year. Does not fit in with my NE region layout but like DMU's. Not up to the Bachmann standards but not bad with some additional details added.

[southcoastmtb]

i bought one of the 121s, and have spent a couple of hours fitting passengers, interior lights, and directional lighting, the only problem with it (and many people who i have spoken to haven't had the issue, but mine limps at slow speed, often derailing one or both ends (could anyone shed any light on the issue please?)

 

its a standard Hornby unit with the DCC chip wired to the socket.

[The Fatadder]

How much better than the old Lima version is the Hornby one(if at all). I have found the Hornby one new for ??40-50, or is it worth saving a few bob and getting a second-hand Lima one?

 

Ed

 

The running quality is slightly better than the average Lima version (though a good running Lima one will often be better than the Hornby release). its also a lot quieter than Lima.

The Hornby release is DCC ready

Hornby have fitted NEM sockets and small couplings on some releases (its there on the Blue/Grey one)

Finally Hornby's printing is typically a lot better than what Lima used to do, though practically all of the Lima re releases have had livery errors so while the printing may be 'better' quality, it may not be as accurate. (that said a lot of the lima ones printing really is rather poor quality, with bare yellow plastic ends etc, so it may well be worth living with any minor livery errors like the slightly too wide strip on the Green release.)

 

If I was buying one, I would probably go with the Hornby one. But only having found one 2nd hand or heavily discounted new.

[Gilbert]

I found that mine needed a good period of running in - in fact ootb it was a very poor runner. Running in won't cure the derailing but it may solve the slow speed issue.

Chris