leavesontheline Posted April 13, 2011 Share Posted April 13, 2011 I was hoping someone may have come up with a solution to this problem before ..... I have a couple of RTR locos that have suffered from rubbing packaging during transit. This has resulted in unsightly localised 'shiny' areas on the paintwork. Any ideas how I can restore these patches to the same matt finish as the rest of the model? I would prefer to be able to achieve this without the use of matt varnish and an airbrush as I don't think my modelling skills would allow me to do this neatly enough, or without messing something else up! Any tips greatly appreciated ..... ! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew F Posted April 14, 2011 Share Posted April 14, 2011 I don't know how to do that without matt varnish but how about T-cutting the loco's up and giving them a realistic shine? After all, few real loco's were ever painted with a matt finish Cheers Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
leavesontheline Posted April 14, 2011 Author Share Posted April 14, 2011 If I thought I could get away with that and not make an even bigger mess I would consider it! Also, I don't think i could get that finish uniformly into all the nooks, crannies and details. I thought that the general rule on models of this scale was that a gloss finish makes the model look too toy-like, but I've never really understood why this doesn't apply to the die-cast model car and bus world !! I was wondering about something like t-cut or glass polish that would slightly roughen the paint rather than polish it .............. ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted April 14, 2011 Share Posted April 14, 2011 Try some talc puffed pounced on....works a treat for evening things out, and if its fragrant will make the model smell nice too.... Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted April 14, 2011 Share Posted April 14, 2011 I thought that the general rule on models of this scale was that a gloss finish makes the model look too toy-like Go to my blog and have a look at the photo of the loco which is on the header. That has a gloss finish! Once a loco has been weathered a gloss finish can lead to the most realistic results as you get the contrast of texture which the prototype has. A little OT I know but after Andy's comments I thiught it would mentioning - and you only have to look at Andy's stuff to know he really knows his stuff! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karhedron Posted April 14, 2011 Share Posted April 14, 2011 I don't know how to do that without matt varnish but how about T-cutting the loco's up and giving them a realistic shine? After all, few real loco's were ever painted with a matt finish With T-cut you run the risk of removing things like numbers and emblems. Standard process for renumbering is attack the old numbers with t-cut and a fine implement. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie Posted April 14, 2011 Share Posted April 14, 2011 With T-cut you run the risk of removing things like numbers and emblems. Standard process for renumbering is attack the old numbers with t-cut and a fine implement. Yes, but we're (or rather, Andy was) only talking about a very light cut back. By the time you're removing numbersets or underlying colour coats you've gone way too deep. A quick rub over, and don't let the cream puddle deeply - incase chemicals in the cream start to soften the printing - and it'll be fine. If it does come out patchy, then it can be the start of good things in later weathering stages. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Al Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 I was hoping someone may have come up with a solution to this problem before ..... I have a couple of RTR locos that have suffered from rubbing packaging during transit. This has resulted in unsightly localised 'shiny' areas on the paintwork. Any ideas how I can restore these patches to the same matt finish as the rest of the model? I would prefer to be able to achieve this without the use of matt varnish and an airbrush as I don't think my modelling skills would allow me to do this neatly enough, or without messing something else up! Any tips greatly appreciated ..... ! Check first that it is definitely rubbing and not some form of oil that's come from the model or packing that will simply clean off. If not then I'd be inclined simply to revarnish the whole model in the appropriate tone. I know you don't favour this, but you don't need an airbrush to achieve it as the best (IMHO!) matt varnish is Testors Dullcote, which comes in spray cans. All you then need to do is mask any windows, ensure the model is clean of dust, and lightly dust on the dullcote. It'll give an excellent uniform finish, even over areas where the paintwork isn't all the same shade. I've done this on a couple of models where there's had to be some touching up or slight issue with paint going on . They all came out great in the end, e.g. this one which was dullcoted - see if you can spot where the painting blunder happened.... http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?app=gallery&image=15766 HTH, Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
leavesontheline Posted April 15, 2011 Author Share Posted April 15, 2011 Some things there for me to try this weekend! Its definitely not oil as I've tried cleaning with damp kitchen towel and a drop of detergent to no avail. I've tried using t-cut, glass polish and other lightly abrasive liquids in the past but always seem to end up making the surface even shinier! Maybe I was over-doing it? I'll give the t-cut another go on an old model first, but i think I'll just use a very light touch and see how that goes. Talc sounds like an interesting option too. Luckily the affected area is not near any printed details so i should avoid rubbing anything off completely! I'm just not geared up for weathering (or even matt varnishing) yet. I have an airbrush, and old Badger 200 that I bought in Beatties (remember them?) many years ago, but currently no suitable area in which to use it. However, my main blocker for weathering is lack of confidence and fear of ruining an expensive model! Plus, what if I change my mind a few months down the line? I am too chicken to permanently alter a tatty old £20 model let alone a £100 brand new one!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Gwiwer Posted April 16, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 16, 2011 If you are going to weather, or indeed carry out any visible alteration to a RtR item, then at some point you will have to overcome your hesitancy and caution. Popular wisdom would have you start on a relatively cheap item such as a wagon, perhaps one from your scrap box if you have such. It took me a couple of years to take the plunge and I certainly don't profess to the the best in the field. I don't have an airbrush either as yet. But I am steadily getting better results with weathering powders, pastels, chalks, mapping pens and paint washes. And I have even been so bold as to weather limited edition items which will probably give some members apoplectic fits. Returning to the OP briefly I know of the problem where you unpack an item only to find it has a shiny spot. I have used standard furniture polish lightly sprayed onto rags cut from an old T-shirt (as that doesn't generate any fluff) and rubbed this very lightly over the entire model to bring it up to an "ex-works" gloss finish. It is then promptly weathered to remove that! But it has the gloss underneath rather than the standard coloured plastic sheen. Here's a sample; on the left a BG which has had a light polish; on the right another which has also had the sides weathered. You may ignore the roof (which will be fixed up later) and the underframes need more attention but it serves to show what can easily be done - in this case taking just 10 minutes with weathering powders - once you have the courage. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.