motor slowing to a stop

[Blandford1969]

Hi all,

 

I have A4 chassis with a problem i just cant figure out.

• The fames and bearings are square - I've double checked
  
• The chassis runs freely with no binding with the coupling rods on
  
• It has not got any brake cross members to short on
  
• It has a d13 motor on a finecast motor mount
  
• with the gear wheel loose the motor happily goes
  
• with the gear wheel tightened and just the driving wheel rotating it goes fine
  

The frames and bearings are square, the chassis runs without any binding with the coupling rods on

 

But as soon as i put the coupling rods on with the gear wheel tightened - the motor starts ok and the rods turn, but after about a min or two it slows to a stand - I am using a gaugemaster test track and it does not appear to show as binding looking at the ameter.

 

I have tried changing the motor with the same result.

 

I am stuck - could anyone suggest any solutions.

 

Thanks in anticipation

 

Duncan

[hollywoodfoundry]

Duncan,

 

All those symptoms would logically point to a faulty motor. Unfortunately I have no idea what a D13 motor is or looks like. But:

1. When the motor stops, is it hot?
2. Also, what current does it draw, both initially when first running then when it slows to a stop?
3. Is the motor well lubricated?

I realise you tried another motor, but it could well be you have two faulty motors, especially if they are old. Over time, the permanent magnets lose magnetism, and this can leave you with a weak motor that draws too much current.

 

It could also be a problem of a shorted winding on one pole, that can have a similar effect.

 

The only other possible that I can think of is if you have one wheel around the wrong way so the insulated side is opposite to the other wheels. But that is a long shot.

 

Geoff

[kevinlms]

Duncan,

 

All those symptoms would logically point to a faulty motor. Unfortunately I have no idea what a D13 motor is or looks like. But:

1. When the motor stops, is it hot?
2. Also, what current does it draw, both initially when first running then when it slows to a stop?
3. Is the motor well lubricated?

I realise you tried another motor, but it could well be you have two faulty motors, especially if they are old. Over time, the permanent magnets lose magnetism, and this can leave you with a weak motor that draws too much current.

 

It could also be a problem of a shorted winding on one pole, that can have a similar effect.

 

The only other possible that I can think of is if you have one wheel around the wrong way so the insulated side is opposite to the other wheels. But that is a long shot.

 

Geoff

 

The D11 & sister D13 motors (KTM according to the EMGS Manual) were one of the first alternatives to the X04, Airfix 1001 etc. The problem being is that they were very fast revving motors with no power. But that didn't stop them from being 'recommended' for various whitemetal kits, presumably because they would fit.

 

Best avoided & I suspect you're right that both have the same fault.

 

Kevin Martin

[micklner]

I had similar using a Gaugemaster unit. The Gaugemaster was defective!!! try the loco on another controller, it drove me mad and I changed the D11 / D13 motors on three locos before I realised what was wrong !!.

If its the Gaugemaster is duff they will repair for free just email them first for a service number and for very good service too. Been all ok since repair.

[Blandford1969]

Hi all,

 

The motor does not show variation in the current draw and does not get hot.

 

I will have a look at the unit and try a different motor as well and let you all know how it goes

 

Many thanks

 

Duncan