James Posted May 10, 2011 Share Posted May 10, 2011 ok, do you agree or disagree that my windows are not flat like the Lima 37 I think the model's coming along very well indeed - I've never doubted that! It was just correcting the post that said that class 40 windscreens were different from class 37 ones when they're the same! That's all! Dropped an "e" there, James I'm wearing my dyslexia badge with pride today! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 10, 2011 Author Share Posted May 10, 2011 I think the model's coming along very well indeed - I've never doubted that! It was just correcting the post that said that class 40 windscreens were different from class 37 ones when they're the same! That's all! I'm wearing my dyslexia badge with pride today! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 11, 2011 Author Share Posted May 11, 2011 Hi all the nice posty delivered the nice new never been run Lima chassis today so i set about modifying it to fit the Hornby body. 1st up was to cut off the corners on each end of the chassis. Then cut the slots for the rads. Cut off the centre lugs and trim the tops off the buffer beams. On the body i have cut off the buffers and beam trim to fit on the Lima chassis buffer beams. Ride height looks wrong at the moment but its just the Hornby body, I am going to add 1mm to the bottom edge off the body to make it look better. But as it is, it’s a vast improvement on the hornbys looks. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Richard_A Posted May 12, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 12, 2011 all I can say is wow and that I muct get on with mine Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 12, 2011 Author Share Posted May 12, 2011 all I can say is wow and that I muct get on with mine thanks m8, i hope to see some pictures of yours soon. back to my effort. i have added 1mm to the bottom edge and scribed on the access panels. just the cab ends and cab roof to detail before i can prime her. the body is on its Hornby chassie in the pics but its only to scribe the access panels. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ragtag Posted May 12, 2011 Share Posted May 12, 2011 Out of curiosity, any reason you went for the Lima chassis over the ViTrains option? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 12, 2011 Author Share Posted May 12, 2011 Out of curiosity, any reason you went for the Lima chassis over the ViTrains option? it was cheep and easy to mod to fit, plus if i was going to buy the vitrains chassis convertion, i may as well just buy there full loco for not much more, but then i would not need to do this, but i like doing this!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ragtag Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 Fair point - I ask because I have an old Hornby bodyshell myself which I've been pondering. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 13, 2011 Author Share Posted May 13, 2011 Fair point - I ask because I have an old Hornby bodyshell myself which I've been pondering. go for it m8 i have been finnishing off the bottom edge of the body and some detail on the chassis needed removing and adding back on 1mm lower. i have painted on some matt to fill the fine scratches. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 13, 2011 Author Share Posted May 13, 2011 not far of painting now roof detail next and then cab ends and buffer beam 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickL2008 Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 That does look very good, have you thought of opening out the underframe tanks as well? timely task but makes a big difference to the Lima underframe NL Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 14, 2011 Author Share Posted May 14, 2011 That does look very good, have you thought of opening out the underframe tanks as well? timely task but makes a big difference to the Lima underframe NL i will be when i have the body finnished, i need to go and take lots of detailed pictures of 37097 underframe and tanks, can not find any good detailed pics online. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 15, 2011 Author Share Posted May 15, 2011 hi all i havd done the roof detail just the cab ends to do, i will be adding LED lighting, i am removing no 1 ends coupling so its only ever going to go in this direction, so i am only putting lighting for going that way, soft white marker and high beam on no 1 end and red on no 2. i will show step by step on how i do that. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheesysmith Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 Looking at the photo`s of the real 37 against the Hornby split box ones, do the boxes look like they are inset from the outer edge on the model compaired to the real thing? Am thinking of coping you to do 114 in all it`s TI greatness with skirts. Did notice the first one you did had replacment boxes, will you be doing the same, and if so where did they come from? Cheesysmith PS-excelent guide :pleasantry: :pleasantry: Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 15, 2011 Author Share Posted May 15, 2011 Looking at the photo`s of the real 37 against the Hornby split box ones, do the boxes look like they are inset from the outer edge on the model compaired to the real thing? Am thinking of coping you to do 114 in all it`s TI greatness with skirts. Did notice the first one you did had replacment boxes, will you be doing the same, and if so where did they come from? Cheesysmith PS-excelent guide :pleasantry: :pleasantry: hi They are inset from the outer edge, i am not going to replace them but i am going to modifie them to make them look right. The boxes on the 1st loco are from Craftsman. heres a link, http://www.howesmodels.co.uk/Railways/viewProduct.php?ProdID=337 i hope to see progress pictures of 114 as you do her. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 15, 2011 Author Share Posted May 15, 2011 i have been adding some detail to 1 cab end. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Richard_A Posted May 15, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 15, 2011 everytime I get my loco out and do abit I look on this thread and it makes me try that bit harder to get mine as good as I can, and I must admit to copying all of your ideas, really really good model Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheesysmith Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 (edited) Don`t hold your breath for 114, in the middle of a house move and our lass having a cow about no trains at the new house (thats wot she thinks, me has 3 little helpers who are into trains, aged 5, 2, 1 ). Have been serching the web, and found the bits required, just need to know, wot size are the round oleo buffers on a tractor? Markits do a 16 and 22 inch sprung oleo, which one do i need? Cheesysmith EDIT-meat to say 37 116 comet in ll. D`oh! Edited May 15, 2011 by cheesysmith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 15, 2011 Author Share Posted May 15, 2011 everytime I get my loco out and do abit I look on this thread and it makes me try that bit harder to get mine as good as I can, and I must admit to copying all of your ideas, really really good model i am only to happy to help m8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 15, 2011 Author Share Posted May 15, 2011 Don`t hold your breath for 114, in the middle of a house move and our lass having a cow about no trains at the new house (thats wot she thinks, me has 3 little helpers who are into trains, aged 5, 2, 1 ). Have been serching the web, and found the bits required, just need to know, wot size are the round oleo buffers on a tractor? Markits do a 16 and 22 inch sprung oleo, which one do i need? Cheesysmith EDIT-meat to say 37 116 comet in ll. D`oh! no trains, sod that it had 22inch in its LL days. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 16, 2011 Author Share Posted May 16, 2011 hi all modifing the split head code boxes. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 17, 2011 Author Share Posted May 17, 2011 hi all nose handrail tool made from plastic card, first cut a 5mm strip, gule this 0.5mm from the edge and top of plastic card, cut another 5mm strip, gule this next to the first but leaving 20thou gap for the wire to fit, then glue plastic card on top the same as the first. the handrails are 6mm long after they are bent, 6mm is the right size for them. thanks carl 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 17, 2011 Author Share Posted May 17, 2011 finnishing the body detailing before paint. and preping for lighting. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 17, 2011 Author Share Posted May 17, 2011 preping for paint, i use copydex to mask the glass, its rubber based and will not stick, but very easy to apply and just peels off. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 17, 2011 Author Share Posted May 17, 2011 and now for some primer thats it for now. thanks carl 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now