carl1967 Posted May 22, 2011 Author Share Posted May 22, 2011 i use Humbrol 221 Garter Blue with a dab of 33 to darken it, or with 34 to look fadded, its the nearest i can get to the real colour. i took some up to match on 37097 i must say that 37097 is in a very fadded state. before anyone says my blue on my body looks rong. i am doing 37081 in near new paint like this picture. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 22, 2011 Author Share Posted May 22, 2011 hi all i have been detailing the buffer beam and finnishing off the chassis as i can not do anything to the body until tomorrow. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold mudmagnet Posted May 22, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 22, 2011 Hi Carl, I've been following progress and find it very interesting. Looking forward to seeing the finished result and then I will then enjoy re-reading the whole thread as it good to see the end result, plus being able to see how you have achieved each stage. Also, good to see someone bringing techniques - like the painting - from other modelling, something which seems to be overlooked in the UK. Seems to be fairly common in USA. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark 37 Posted May 22, 2011 Share Posted May 22, 2011 Hi Carl, I've been following with great interest as you know. I notice you use enamels and I have to say after reading loads of posts here and eles where I went with acrylics for my resprays which are a pile of rubbish in my opinion. The finish is poor, not a hard wearing surface at all. The over all look of the finish is much to be desired and varnish is the worst I've ever worked with in 25 years of modelling normal finger handling can remove or tarnish it. I'll be going back to enamels myself in future projects. A big can of worms opened here and I'm sure the debate will become quite extensive, but if we could leave that for another thread instead of diluting a wonderful modeling thread that Carl has created. Regards, Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 22, 2011 Author Share Posted May 22, 2011 Hi Carl, I've been following progress and find it very interesting. Looking forward to seeing the finished result and then I will then enjoy re-reading the whole thread as it good to see the end result, plus being able to see how you have achieved each stage. Also, good to see someone bringing techniques - like the painting - from other modelling, something which seems to be overlooked in the UK. Seems to be fairly common in USA. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 22, 2011 Author Share Posted May 22, 2011 Hi Carl, I've been following with great interest as you know. I notice you use enamels and I have to say after reading loads of posts here and eles where I went with acrylics for my resprays which are a pile of rubbish in my opinion. The finish is poor, not a hard wearing surface at all. The over all look of the finish is much to be desired and varnish is the worst I've ever worked with in 25 years of modelling normal finger handling can remove or tarnish it. I'll be going back to enamels myself in future projects. A big can of worms opened here and I'm sure the debate will become quite extensive, but if we could leave that for another thread instead of diluting a wonderful modeling thread that Carl has created. Regards, Mark hi mark i have tried acrylics and i think they are CRAP!!! but some love them, but not me, i have used humbrol for 30 years and can do anything with it. i also like Phoenix Precision paint, it's also enamel. i will always use enamels, you can not beat them. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 23, 2011 Author Share Posted May 23, 2011 Hi all painting the roof masked using the same 3mm strip method. the black and white method can be seen in the blue and yellow in the pictures here, the roof is hard to see as its still wet in the pics. After the gray had gone on, I added weathering as it was masked up, and the gray was still not dry. It always looks better this way, do not ask me why, it just looks like its stained and not just on top of the gray. Thanks for looking Carl Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted May 23, 2011 Share Posted May 23, 2011 The comments about enamels are interesting; I use enamels exclusively (aside from Halford's sprays for priming) and I think that once you're used to them, they're very versitile. Sadly in some quarters there almost seems to be an assumption that if you use them you're some how, a little backward! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 23, 2011 Author Share Posted May 23, 2011 The comments about enamels are interesting; I use enamels exclusively (aside from Halford's sprays for priming) and I think that once you're used to them, they're very versitile. Sadly in some quarters there almost seems to be an assumption that if you use them you're some how, a little backward! hi james i guess i am very backward then :yes: i will always use enamels and now for some humbrol 33 mat black spraying!!!!! i have masked and painted the windows and nose roof. the windows were masked in the same way as the rest, but with 1.5mm srips cut the same as before, as seen in 1st pic, then i used a sharp knife to trim to make a corner, see pic 2 of the same point. thanks for looking. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 24, 2011 Author Share Posted May 24, 2011 hi all the next step is to give the body a coat of gloss varnish Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 24, 2011 Author Share Posted May 24, 2011 I cannot do anything on the body now until its dry tomorrow. So i made number 2 ends head code box fronts, as they are not going to have lighting in them i have used white 10thou card for the main and .5 for the lens holder. Next i will be making number 1 ends head code box fronts, as they are getting LEDs in them, i will be making them in the same way but with clear .5thou for the lens holder. But this will be painted black on the inside before its glued on the main, leaving the centre clear for the light to shine out. You will see in pictures as i do it. I also painted the rads. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark 37 Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 Hi Carl, Me again (here we go again I hear you say). I'm wondering why you went with a gloss varnish? I ask because all my modelling background has taught me the smaller the scale the less shine are on things. I would probably only went as shinny as satin. I know gloss is more hard wearing, but is there another reason? Best regards and thanks, Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 24, 2011 Author Share Posted May 24, 2011 Hi Carl, Me again (here we go again I hear you say). I'm wondering why you went with a gloss varnish? I ask because all my modelling background has taught me the smaller the scale the less shine are on things. I would probably only went as shinny as satin. I know gloss is more hard wearing, but is there another reason? Best regards and thanks, Mark Hi mark I am glad you asked But!! All will be revealed in the next thrilling instalment on the body. Ps, I purposely did not add anything else to that post just to see if I had a response. Till the next time Carl Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark 37 Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 I should have probably said. I know transfers take better on gloss, but I find adding a little paint colour under them when placing gives a good grip and little film to view. If it's for another reason, get the hair dryer out and get on with it.lol Regards, Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 24, 2011 Author Share Posted May 24, 2011 I should have probably said. I know transfers take better on gloss, but I find adding a little paint colour under them when placing gives a good grip and little film to view. If it's for another reason, get the hair dryer out and get on with it.lol Regards, Mark You are spot on with the decal stage. Plus! Its far easier to do all the weathering on gloss, it can be manipulated and rubbed off and shaped/ added/ removed in just a way that you can get it to look so real. As for putting paint under decals, there really is no need if you gloss the body, plus your decal will not be flat. I use "Micro Sol" when i do any decaling, it softens them so they contour to the shape and makes them sink in to any panel lines or around and raised area. I used to apply decals with just water and press them down with tishoo. With Micro sol, you paint the area with Micro sol, slide the decal off on top and then paint Micro sol on top of the decal, position the decal with the same brush and remove excess with tishoo but not touching the decal, and leave it to dry, as it dries the decal will conform down to the exact shape its on all by its self. it also acts like better glue and stick them solid to the body. When dry simply lightly wash excess off with a damp cloth. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark 37 Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 Ahhhh, Your just full of we tips and tricks. May even try it to see if I see a difference, but to be honest. I've been happy with the results so far (touch wood). Well my spare body that was going to be a large logo or RF red stripe is now going to be WCR Loch Arkaig. Just need to figure out the easiest way to do the orange lining tape. If you have any ideas i'd be glad to here them. Probably too fine to paint accurately. I guess an order to Fox could be on the cards. Regards, Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 25, 2011 Author Share Posted May 25, 2011 Hi all Decals. Decals the Micro sol way!! Micro sol is not paint, it’s the same consistency as water. Apply micro sol to the decal area and slide decal off the paper on top, apply more micro sol on top of the decal, position the decal with a fine brush, remove excess with a brush but not touching the decal, then just leave to dry. The decal will wrinkle around the edge but that’s fine, do not attempt to press it down, trust me this will be bad!!, as it dries they will disappear on there own, I have added pics of this, before and after. Ask me anything and i will answer. Carl 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 25, 2011 Author Share Posted May 25, 2011 Hi all as this sides decals were drying, I decided to remove the Lima coupling and replace it with a Bachmann one. This is the 1st time i have done this, i think next time i will shorten it as well. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BernardTPM Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 You're doing a great job on that old Hornby body. Just one thing regarding the numbers; going by the picture you posted, those you're using look to be more accurate than the real thing which seems to have been numbered using spare vinyls from the local takeaway, given the odd typeface. Of course, it may have been corrected later. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 25, 2011 Author Share Posted May 25, 2011 You're doing a great job on that old Hornby body. Just one thing regarding the numbers; going by the picture you posted, those you're using look to be more accurate than the real thing which seems to have been numbered using spare vinyls from the local takeaway, given the odd typeface. Of course, it may have been corrected later. Hi Bernard that picture is just for reference, the numbers i have used on the model are the right ones, that picture of the real 37081 was taken just after she had been restored back in her LL colours. They had used the wrong typeface. This is how she looked in service, http://www.flickr.com/photos/buckielugger/3709849254/sizes/l/in/photostream/ But as my layout is all modern, i have done her like the restored picture but with the right typeface numbers. http://www.flickr.com/photos/dwbphotos/4153131915/sizes/l/in/photostream/ i am going to try and model the placard on her in that picture, "west highland tours" Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poindexter Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 Nice work and explanation with the decals. Saved me buying a book this thread has!! Guy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 25, 2011 Author Share Posted May 25, 2011 Nice work and explanation with the decals. Saved me buying a book this thread has!! Guy Thanks Guy only glad i can help Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BernardTPM Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 I'm glad what you've done is the 'correct' version; even if it hadn't been it still would have looked better anyway! The Micro Sol demo was useful too. Well done! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 25, 2011 Author Share Posted May 25, 2011 I'm glad what you've done is the 'correct' version; even if it hadn't been it still would have looked better anyway! The Micro Sol demo was useful too. Well done! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 25, 2011 Author Share Posted May 25, 2011 hi all Decals all done Started on the weathering. Just some matt black for now, to highlight some detail. Just paint it on and wipe off before it dries, leaving paint in the detail and making streaks, always wipe down from top to bottom. You cannot see it to well in the pictures of the full body so i took some up close. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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