carl1967 Posted May 26, 2011 Author Share Posted May 26, 2011 hi all most of the weathering is done. just needs a coat of matt clear now. then the lighting. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark 37 Posted May 27, 2011 Share Posted May 27, 2011 Carl, That looks good and grubby. Top job! I'll be following the wiring section of this thread too. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 29, 2011 Author Share Posted May 29, 2011 hi all matt clear is done, and i have removed the copydex of one window to show how it looks. i will do the rest when its fully dry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 29, 2011 Author Share Posted May 29, 2011 Carl, That looks good and grubby. Top job! I'll be following the wiring section of this thread too. Mark Hi mark Lighting! Here are step by step pictures of how I do my lighting. I did have a dud LED, it was fine after I replaced it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 29, 2011 Author Share Posted May 29, 2011 Hi all And now for something different! I have done the roof fan with adding something to it. Let me know what you think Carl 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevpeo Posted May 29, 2011 Share Posted May 29, 2011 Very neat job that carl. I did something similar on several Lima ones using Hornby 'Pacer' motors, I bet yours is a lot smoother though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 29, 2011 Author Share Posted May 29, 2011 Very neat job that carl. I did something similar on several Lima ones using Hornby 'Pacer' motors, I bet yours is a lot smoother though! thanks it is very smooth and i can not wait to get it in the body. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
11D Posted May 29, 2011 Share Posted May 29, 2011 Good topic, have really enjoyed reading this through - look forward to seeing the completed results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 30, 2011 Author Share Posted May 30, 2011 Hi all I have been fitting the lighting today. I have also removed all the copydex from the windows and fitted the rads The Head code LEDs are 3mm warm white, but they are to bright, this will be sorted out when the box fronts go on. Let me know what you think. Carl 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zumo2567 Posted May 30, 2011 Share Posted May 30, 2011 This is looking excellent. I know have an urge to go and do one myself. Any chance of a video once your finished? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 30, 2011 Author Share Posted May 30, 2011 This is looking excellent. I know have an urge to go and do one myself. Any chance of a video once your finished? A video, no probs, i will upload one on my youtube and link it on here. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark 37 Posted May 30, 2011 Share Posted May 30, 2011 Hi mark Lighting! Here are step by step pictures of how I do my lighting. I did have a dud LED, it was fine after I replaced it. Hi Carl, I did mean wiring. I thought you were adding head and tails to both ends, my mistake. I wanted to see how to wire a pcb if both lights were added to both ends as all my reading says it's dificult to not have them all on all the time. I have a couple of brand new Bachmanns with DCC port, but no lighting and would love to know where to wire them in the PCB board. I thought I would have got an inclination from your thread, but I got my wires crossed (poor pun). Looks a sweet loco all the same and well worth a read. Best regards, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted May 31, 2011 Author Share Posted May 31, 2011 Hi all Not far off finished now! About 90% I finished off the wiring and fitted the fan, I have hit a problem with the fan, the motor is a 3.5v motor, I fitted it with a resistor so the 12v will not burn it out. Runs fine on its own, and with the lights, but will not run with the main motor, lights are fine. I will sort it! I just have to fit the glass/ name plate/ window wipers, and fill the fuel tanks with lead shot. And do the front head code box fronts. Thanks for looking Carl 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark 37 Posted June 1, 2011 Share Posted June 1, 2011 That's a huge transformation from a standard Hornby model (if you could call hornbys a model). Well done and thanks very much for sharing your work with us. Are your pictures been added via a third party site like photobucket or something? I ask because if you delete them at some point well be stuck for using your thread for reference. All the best, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted June 1, 2011 Author Share Posted June 1, 2011 That's a huge transformation from a standard Hornby model (if you could call hornbys a model). Well done and thanks very much for sharing your work with us. Are your pictures been added via a third party site like photobucket or something? I ask because if you delete them at some point well be stuck for using your thread for reference. All the best, Mark hi mark the pictures are uploaded only to Rmweb and will stay on for as long as andy lets them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted June 1, 2011 Author Share Posted June 1, 2011 hi all adding some weight. 177 airrifle pellets, that's the best i could get where i live today so they had to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted June 1, 2011 Author Share Posted June 1, 2011 Doing the flush glazing. 1st, trim out the inside of the windows, the windows taper in, so are smaller on the inside face, take care not to nick the outer edge. 2nd, cut out the flush glaze windows and leave a 1mm over hang edge on the square side windows and the same on the door glass, but cut the top over hang edge off as this snags on the inside of the roof. The cab side windows touch all the way round, so leave very little over hang edge. 3rd, do not add glue before you fit them, dry fit them and then using a knife, add super glue to the edge on the inside of the body, you only need a tiny amount. that’s it done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted June 1, 2011 Author Share Posted June 1, 2011 The front head code box fronts Using the Hornby originals, sand the outer face flat, glue new 10thou card on to them, making them longer to fit the modified box sides, remove the locating lugs from there backs, drill a 3mm hole, glue on the clear 0.5thou card, glue on the light surround, then paint matt white vary lightly in the hole at the back. This now looks like off white glass from the right side, then I added some clear orange to the LEDs After painting them just glue them on. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted June 1, 2011 Author Share Posted June 1, 2011 Finishing touches. Fitting the nameplates. Using a 3mm strip of masking tape, the same as I had for the painting stage, lightly lay this on the body side parallel and just under where the bottom edge of the nameplate will go, this will give you a guide to get the nameplate straight, I use super glue, 2 drops no more than 1mm. I also fitted the window wipers. Sorry for not taking step by step pictures of this but I did not see the need. As it stands in the pictures in this post, all it needs are the head code box fronts weathering. It runs great but the roof fan will only run on full power, I am looking in to integrating the rc hellis circuit board and battery, it will charge its self as it runs, its battery is 3.7v so will have to find a 6v resistor as it charges at 6v, doing this will allow the fan and the lights staying on after the loco stops, just the same as DCC locos but on DC track, if I get it to work I will post pictures. Next post will be pictures and a video of it on the layout. I hope this has been as informative as possible to all who do not know how to do this. Thanks Carl ps, now i have to weather 37111 to match...lol 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonas Posted June 1, 2011 Share Posted June 1, 2011 Congratulations - that has been worth every minute of effort you've put in. You should be proud - great modelling! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pillar Posted June 3, 2011 Share Posted June 3, 2011 Inspiring Stuff! Looks even better than a Bachmann one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted June 3, 2011 Author Share Posted June 3, 2011 thanks for the comments. here are some new pictures of her on the layout. and a video, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rbb8i5BMAZg 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWJ Posted June 4, 2011 Share Posted June 4, 2011 Hi Carl, That's a cracking tractor, I'm particularly impressed with the marker lights which look just right when off and when on. RTR manufacturers could learn a lot from this! A tip for the low-voltage fan motor: adding resistors to the power supply will mean the motor doesn't perform very well at certain track voltages (the same would apply if you used a resistor to drop 6V of the supply to your rechargeable battery) and you might need quite high-wattage resistors. An alternative solution would be a constant lighting circuit which can be bought from various suppliers (I think DCC supplies do one) but I expect you'd prefer to make your own - a suitable circuit is here: http://www.clag.org....ng-circuit.html . Hope this helps. Cheers, Will Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted June 26, 2011 Author Share Posted June 26, 2011 Hi Carl, That's a cracking tractor, I'm particularly impressed with the marker lights which look just right when off and when on. RTR manufacturers could learn a lot from this! A tip for the low-voltage fan motor: adding resistors to the power supply will mean the motor doesn't perform very well at certain track voltages (the same would apply if you used a resistor to drop 6V of the supply to your rechargeable battery) and you might need quite high-wattage resistors. An alternative solution would be a constant lighting circuit which can be bought from various suppliers (I think DCC supplies do one) but I expect you'd prefer to make your own - a suitable circuit is here: http://www.clag.org....ng-circuit.html . Hope this helps. Cheers, Will thanks for the info will, i will look in to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl1967 Posted June 26, 2011 Author Share Posted June 26, 2011 been at the perth show allday on the DEMU stand and helping out operating the ayr model rail groups layout. i had 37081 on the Ayr layout for some pictures. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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