ian@stenochs Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Any chance of measuring the wheelbase? OzzyO. The Snowhill 2-8-0 has an extended wheelbase. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Hi Ozzy - the loco wheelbase? Yes the loco coupled wheel base. The Snowhill 2-8-0 has an extended wheelbase. IIRC the coupled wheel base is 2mm too long. All I was thinking about was if you were going to use any milled rods! OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted April 7, 2014 Author Share Posted April 7, 2014 Thanks Ozzy - I have the MRJ articles with all the back ground, I'll be using the rods in the kit.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 Isn't the JLTRT WD supposed to be pretty good Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted April 10, 2014 Author Share Posted April 10, 2014 (edited) The tank and bunker are now completed and I might follow these two with the JLTRT WD I have if I have time. Edited April 10, 2014 by dibateg 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted April 11, 2014 Author Share Posted April 11, 2014 Finished weathering jobs, just a few final touches before delivery. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted April 14, 2014 Author Share Posted April 14, 2014 The WD tenders are distinctive by their plain slab sides, but one noticeable feature are the row of bolts along the bottom edge that hold the tank to the frames. These are not represented in the kit and with no hope of me measuring accurately 28 holes, I knocked up a drilling jig from scrap fret and tested the hole position on some other scrap. The edge of the 'butting' piece was then filed away until the hole position was correct. It's shown hooked over one the 'bolts' made from 0.7mm brass wire:- 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted April 18, 2014 Author Share Posted April 18, 2014 So I'm buzzing along with these tenders now, the axleboxes and springs consist of several parts, so there is a days work in cutting off sprue, cleaning up and fitting 16 of them. I soldered them all in place with 145 degree solder. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 These are coming on nicely. I look forward to seeing more. It looks like a well apointed kit. Does it fit together as well as it looks? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted April 18, 2014 Author Share Posted April 18, 2014 Thanks Peter - well, it's not quite the slot and tab of an MOK, but everything fits, you just have to make sure you check the drawings/pictures to get things in the right place. The main thing is that the castings are all in brass, which I much prefer working with than white metal. Regards Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim.snowdon Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 Thanks Ozzy - I have the MRJ articles with all the back ground, I'll be using the rods in the kit.. The front section of the rods on the real thing was offset inwards to provide clearance behind the crosshead (it's not just modellers who have that problem). That feature is replicated in the rods in the kit, but not in any milled rods that I know of. The slight stretch in the coupled wheelbase (and the loco as a whole, so as to keep all the parts in the same relative position) is a consequence of the compromises brought about by overscale flanges and limits on the minimum dimensions for various etched parts. Regards, Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted May 3, 2014 Author Share Posted May 3, 2014 Thanks Jim - The frames are progressing well. I had a little difficulty with the hornguides, until I worked out I force the fold further out by using the edge of a ruler to control the bend. The majority of the bearings then just dropped in without any fettling. The half etch tab is on the outside of the fold. The frames - with one inverted. Brake fitting next. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim.snowdon Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 Thanks Jim - The frames are progressing well. I had a little difficulty with the hornguides, until I worked out I force the fold further out by using the edge of a ruler to control the bend. The majority of the bearings then just dropped in without any fettling. The half etch tab is on the outside of the fold. The frames - with one inverted. Brake fitting next. Interesting - I never thought of bending them that way. I just folded them over and then squeezed the fold up with a pair of pliers. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 Interesting - I never thought of bending them that way. I just folded them over and then squeezed the fold up with a pair of pliers. Jim Jim, are you saying that you folded the horn guides up with the folds to the outside? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim.snowdon Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 Jim, are you saying that you folded the horn guides up with the folds to the outside? Ozzy - No - the folds are with the half-etch to the inside as usual. What I meant was that I just folded them as far as they would go by hand, which was about 150 degrees, and then used a pair of pliers to finish the fold off to the full 180 degrees. Not terribly elegant, but it worked. It looks like Tony may have found a better way of doing it which I shall have to explore further when I start the next kit in my build queue. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted May 6, 2014 Author Share Posted May 6, 2014 I spent yesterday fitting the brakes and making up the cylinders. The wrappers in the kit are 20thou brass and as I had to consign my exploding gas torch to the bin, I only had my plumbing torch to anneal them. So instead I made my own wrappers from 12thou brass, which is easy to form cold. I've been reading Geoff Holts book! 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim.snowdon Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 I spent yesterday fitting the brakes and making up the cylinders. The wrappers in the kit are 20thou brass and as I had to consign my exploding gas torch to the bin, I only had my plumbing torch to anneal them. So instead I made my own wrappers from 12thou brass, which is easy to form cold. I've been reading Geoff Holts book! Tony, How do you propose to secure the cylinders to the frames? I remember designing the assembly with a tab on the back face so that once they were hooked into position, they could be secured with a 10BA screw down through the folded in tab on the frames. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted May 7, 2014 Author Share Posted May 7, 2014 Hello Jim - I'm still thinking about that one, I like to make the cylinders removable on my models and seem to have achieved it so far. I'll let you know what I come up with! Regards Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim.snowdon Posted May 7, 2014 Share Posted May 7, 2014 Hello Jim - I'm still thinking about that one, I like to make the cylinders removable on my models and seem to have achieved it so far. I'll let you know what I come up with! Regards Tony Tony, I am trying to work out what you have done, which is, I think, to have left out part 162. As designed, the cylinders would have been removable, although I didn't intend it that way. The tab and screw method was simply a way of attaching them without the need for a non-prototypical frame stretcher right where the smokebox saddle would have been. I'll wait to see what you do some up with. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted May 8, 2014 Author Share Posted May 8, 2014 Trick of the camera Jim - 162 is there - I can't see in on the photo either! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
0_gauge_novice Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 Hi Tony, thank you so much for your WD 2-8-0 build. I will use it as a reference for my 2-10-0, which I bought recently from Roxey. I will build it as a Greek Version. I am thinking of getting the Premier Motion (coupling rods etc.). What do you think? Cheers Andreas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted May 8, 2014 Author Share Posted May 8, 2014 Hello Andreas - I am glad you are enjoying the build. I have used Premier rods in the past on other loco's although I did not see a need for them in this case. As long as you are prepared to put the time into cleaning and polishing up the rods, they should be fine. Regards Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
84B Oxley Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 Andreas Premier's rods will be to exact scale measurements. If the kit designer has slightly changed the wheelbase, as he has done with the 2-8-0, then the Premier ones will not fit. Ask Jim Snowdon, (I think he designed the kit) he is visiting this topic and has made a few comments already. Hope this helps. Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
0_gauge_novice Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 Hi Jeff, that was what I was thinking of, these changes at the wheelbase. I wrote an e-mail to premier and I am waiting for an answer. Sorry Tony for sidetracking your topic... Cheers Andreas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim.snowdon Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 Hi Jeff, that was what I was thinking of, these changes at the wheelbase. I wrote an e-mail to premier and I am waiting for an answer. Sorry Tony for sidetracking your topic... Cheers Andreas Andreas, If the Premier rods are milled to the scale axle centre distances, they will not fit. In any case, the front section of the rods on both the 2-8-0 and the 2-10-0 is of a reduced section on the prototype in order to win clearance behind the crosshead. That is reproduced on the etched rods in the kit for exactly the same reasons, but not, as far as I am aware, on the milled rods produced by Premier. Regards, Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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