BernardTPM Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 (edited) Yes, the Big Bedford is a significant gap in the die cast ranges, not glamorous enough perhaps. You've captured the every day scene with those models. Saw one of those cabs (well, the ex-Military RL version) earlier this week in Rhyl - first one I'd seen for years (the T.A. base on the edge of West Ham Park was probably the last time previously - 1990s/80s?). Edited January 31, 2014 by BernardTPM Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bigbee Line Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 (edited) Thanks Colin I've been thinking about that and you're right, that's certainly the best option. Now all I need to do is work out which wagons... which would entail a degree of planning I'm not used to! I've fancied doing an SR Ferry open for some time, assuming Dave Franks at Lanarkshire Model Supplies gets the appropriate buffers sorted. There's a few steel carriers as well - I quite fancy a couple of Coil K using Cambrian bogies or joining DOGA just to buy some Warflats, which were also converted to Coil carriers. That said, there are quite a few little awkward bits, especially some of the '60s boxed lettering elements (which are a swine to paint freehand) which would benefit from this approach. Since the Coil H seems to be a tinplate vehicle, it seems that we want some more shocvans as well. Ho hum. Adam It's a bit late now, but I've just come across this Coil K diag. Might be useful to someone. Edited February 5, 2014 by The Bigbee Line Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted February 8, 2014 Author Share Posted February 8, 2014 Thanks for that Bigbee - I've already got that one! That project is very much on the back burner at present, What has seen some work are my clayliner tank and Sentinel steamer. See below: The Sentinel, of course, has its own thread: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/67087-a-post-war-200hp-steam-sentinel-in-em-building-a-bonnet/?p=1337537 Adam 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted February 16, 2014 Share Posted February 16, 2014 Hi Adam, Nice work on the Clayliner walkway. The Sentinel looks good too. All the best, Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted February 16, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 16, 2014 Thanks both (and all those clicking the buttons on the bottom right). Here are a couple of pictures of the catwalks: Clayliner_catwalk.gif These are quite simple and copy the real thing to some extent. They consist of etched mesh (Scalelink SLF108) and some bits of 0.8mm milled angle. Rather than attempting to make up the framework separately, I drew up a simple template on some scrap A4, tinned a bit of the mesh and gently scribed the lines from the template onto the mesh before sweating the angle into place. A few strategic solder fillets here and there and job done. The complete assembly was trimmed out of the sheet with an ageing scalpel blade and filed up. This was easier than I thought and definitely easier than the other way about. Clayliner_catwalk2.gif The legs you can see will be anchored in holes in the tank while the remainder (not yet added) will be cosmetic. Hope that helps. Adam Thanks to you Adam I came away from Doncaster exhibition with 4 lengths of 0.8mm brass angle, hmmm, what to do with it now? Mike. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted March 1, 2014 Author Share Posted March 1, 2014 Despite the sunshine I've been active doing a couple of bits and pieces: I'm doing a bit of demoing at an EMGS event next weekend (first time for everything, details here: http://www.emgs.org/16.html?category=2) and what I've agreed to do is something along the lines of 'Wagons and Rolling Stock - Finishing Touches'. Having scratched my head a bit as to exactly what this means I've come to the view that this should be in two parts. First, the little extra details you can easily add to kits and RTR (and ways of making them durable) and second, painting and finishing. These wagons are to be used as examples/talking points while I work on other things. Well, that's the plan anyhow. The Bachmann Covhop featured above, relettered with Cambridge Custom Transfers, treated to new buffers and waiting the rather curious angle iron assemblies that were on the end of the real things. I don't think I'd bother with the latter if I were running a block train but I only really want one or two so I shall bite the bullet and do the fiddly work. Despite a couple of comments about the spec' elsewhere, the competition is Bill Bedford's kit. I'm sure that this is excellent and the built example I've seen looks lovely but getting the thing running to a standard I'm happy with would cost c. £50 plus build time. This will be about half that which is relatively pricey for a tarted-up RTR item by UK standards I suppose but still quite a satisfying project from a very good basis. The Cambrian range is increasingly prolific these days and this dia. 1375 is pretty representative of what is now produced. The one-piece, 'ready to detail', chassis means that assembly is about as easy as it gets. It would have been easier still have I used the supplied brake parts - which aren't bad at all actually but I for reasons of durability as much as anything else I fit metal brake levers and tiebars made from brass angle as standard. Adam 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 (edited) Despite the sunshine I've been active doing a couple of bits and pieces: I'm doing a bit of demoing at an EMGS event next weekend (first time for everything, details here: http://www.emgs.org/16.html?category=2) and what I've agreed to do is something along the lines of 'Wagons and Rolling Stock - Finishing Touches'. Having scratched my head a bit as to exactly what this means I've come to the view that this should be in two parts. First, the little extra details you can easily add to kits and RTR (and ways of making them durable) and second, painting and finishing. These wagons are to be used as examples/talking points while I work on other things. Well, that's the plan anyhow. Covhop2.gif The Bachmann Covhop featured above, relettered with Cambridge Custom Transfers, treated to new buffers and waiting the rather curious angle iron assemblies that were on the end of the real things. I don't think I'd bother with the latter if I were running a block train but I only really want one or two so I shall bite the bullet and do the fiddly work. Despite a couple of comments about the spec' elsewhere, the competition is Bill Bedford's kit. I'm sure that this is excellent and the built example I've seen looks lovely but getting the thing running to a standard I'm happy with would cost c. £50 plus build time. This will be about half that which is relatively pricey for a tarted-up RTR item by UK standards I suppose but still quite a satisfying project from a very good basis. The Cambrian range is increasingly prolific these days and this dia. 1375 is pretty representative of what is now produced. The one-piece, 'ready to detail', chassis means that assembly is about as easy as it gets. It would have been easier still have I used the supplied brake parts - which aren't bad at all actually but I for reasons of durability as much as anything else I fit metal brake levers and tiebars made from brass angle as standard. Cambrian_SR_open.gif Cambrian_SR_open1.gif Adam Hi Adam, Lovely work as always. The Covhop finish is excellent. You have got those transfers on very neatly. The Cambrian open is nice to see and I shall be having a go at a few of these before long. Your addition of the metal brake gear improves the appearance no end. I have been nagging my brother to produce these or similar wagons for a while. These opens were much loved by the Southern Region engineers for spoil trains and looked very fetching when branded with the green triangles that were fleetingly and inconsistently applied in the 70's. All the best, Colin Edited March 2, 2014 by Colin parks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium ullypug Posted March 2, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 2, 2014 Very good indeed. See you next Saturday! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted March 2, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 2, 2014 Don't know whether it bothers you or not, the dates on the Covhop's maintenance chalkboard are 1980, I'll be weathering mine out of recognition! Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted March 2, 2014 Author Share Posted March 2, 2014 (edited) Thanks chaps. A couple of points raised there - Mike I know about the dates but they're barely legible on this monitor nearly twice the size! Weathered, no one will be any the wiser and the basic pattern of graphic was in use from the mid-60s on so I'll spare myself that job! Thanks for the badgering Colin; I do like making Southern wagons when I get the chance and don't have nearly enough fitted opens. The brakegear is ABS which, although I'll replace the safety loops, is much the best available in my view; etched Morton gear can look lovely but it is always a fiddle. The green triangles seem to be another thing that came in a bit earlier (again, the mid-60s) and I think they were to differentiate 'traffic' opens, medfits, etc, from those the engineers had claimed. I've modelled a couple of medfits like that though don't have any pictures to hand. Adam Edited March 2, 2014 by Adam Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share Posted March 15, 2014 (edited) Not a lot of activity on the workbench at the minute what with demo'ing last weekend and that was very enjoyable, I wouldn't mind having another go if anyone wants to offer me the chance, and the appearance of the sun. Still, here we are, the clayliner has gained its ladders (RT Models reinforced/made 3 dimensional with a bit of 0.3mm Nickel Silver wire) while a couple of Presflos have made an appearance. There's not a lot wrong with these - well, the W irons are a slightly odd shape, and the steps could be a bit better, but what can you do? Presflos hunted in rakes so how much attention are you really going to give? All I've done is replace the buffers and vac' pipes, add screw link couplings, take the TOPS lettering off, removed the Blue Circle roundel from one and added 'Presflo Cement' lettering, warning flashes, etc. as appropriate) and painted the white ladders bauxite. Ready to weather now. Adam Edited March 15, 2014 by Adam 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted March 21, 2014 Author Share Posted March 21, 2014 Just to tie up a project, here are a couple of shots of my now complete Rumney Models/Parkside Minfit. The weathering mix is a mix of Humbrol Metalcote gunmetal, Track Colour (#173) and the bottom of a tin of matt orange. There was a slight problem with the first pass - it seems that the pigment in the matt sand I'd been using to lighten the mix seems to have floated out. Anyhow, a second pass sorted that out and the overall effect is pleasing enough. Adam 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 Hi Adam, That is one impressive Minfit. It looks as if every last detail is on the wagon. Excellent stuff! Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted March 21, 2014 Author Share Posted March 21, 2014 (edited) Thanks Colin, glad to hear you're feeling a bit better. Here's something else I've been working on, one of the new Hornby CCTs. Basically, it has had a new set of brakeshoes, various linkages, pipes, new buffers (yes, I know it's missing its heads, I've run out) and the thing that makes the biggest difference, a coat of paint on the underframe and roof. A very tidy model and although the Parkside kit for the same vehicle is very good - indeed, there's nothing to choose between them above the solebar - but the detail you get on the underframe on the Hornby version is rather crisper. In other words, you have do the same work but on a ready painted, assembled model. Adam Edited March 21, 2014 by Adam 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arthur Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 I like that Adam, well worth the effort you've put in. A pattern to follow methinks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted March 21, 2014 Author Share Posted March 21, 2014 (edited) To be honest, Arthur, I think the only essential modifications are the brake linkages and their safety loops since they're quite a distinctive feature. Everything else is a feature of my detail fetish, but it is all properly mechanically fixed. The lever guides are pinned through the solebar and supported up the back with a piece of 'z' shaped nickel silver wire, while the vac' pipes and steam heat pipes are anchored to the buffer planks; if I am going to take the trouble of putting the detail on I only really want to do it once... Adam Edited August 4, 2014 by Adam 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 Hi Adam, Very fine work once again. Hornby models can certainly be made to look just right in the hands of someone like yourself! All the best, Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted March 23, 2014 Author Share Posted March 23, 2014 (edited) A game of spot the difference if you want (though the above post rather gives the game away - click on it for a bigger version): A close-up of the Parkside version. The planks are a bit finer and the underframe needed a bit more work but otherwise there isn't much to choose between them. Adam Edited March 23, 2014 by Adam 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartinWales Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 Again, some superb work there Adam! Keep them coming! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 That's a fine brace of wagons Adam! To be honest, I think the Parkside wagon looks best as the lettering appears to be more authentic in its typeface. Apart from that, it's honours even between the two. All the best, Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted March 23, 2014 Author Share Posted March 23, 2014 (edited) I had pondered that, but since these were often sign-written (hence not a 'typeface'; the things weren't typed) or, rarely I expect, transfers this variation in 'weight' and colour density seems to have been normal. The Fruit D in this link has quite 'thin' lettering - http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/fruitd/h1af423b2#h1af423b2 - while this LNER BZ has lettering more akin to the PC Models sheet that furnished the lettering for the Parkside version; it's a bit heavier, more dense and more orange in tone. The variation in livery colour is something I like - it shows up the change from Crimson to Maroon on vehicles in a similar condition. the other unusual thing about these vans is that they seem often to have been numbered in the freight, as opposed to passenger, series by BR so there's no regional suffix on the number. The LMS, of course, turned out the batch they built in freight stock livery. Very odd for what was definitely a piece of NPCCS... Adam Edited March 23, 2014 by Adam Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mark Forrest Posted March 23, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 23, 2014 I'd bought a couple of the Parkside CCTs shortly before Hornby announced theirs, interesting to see them side by side, like you say not much difference between them is there. The extra detail you've added to the brake gear makes a big difference, definitely something I'll be doing when I get around to building mine. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted March 24, 2014 Author Share Posted March 24, 2014 (edited) Following the diversion into parcels stock and with a desire to get some more projects at least physically complete, the last couple of jobs on the Clayliner tank were done last night. Nothing very exciting, just some bits of tank-top-ephemera, but the addition of hinges, screw clamps on the inspection hatch and whatever that valve arrangement is meant to do next to the filler adds to the sense of busyness up there and prompted a blast of primer while waiting for the cooker engineer this morning. I have now straightened that wonky ladder rung by the way. The effect of the etched mesh is rather better than I expected - the mesh is finer than I thought. Now back to work... Adam Edited March 24, 2014 by Adam 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted March 31, 2014 Author Share Posted March 31, 2014 (edited) I spent an interesting hour or so fettling last night revisiting a project that's been sat on the shelf for far too long. It shouldn't have really because it's 'simply' a re-wheeled Bachmann 66xx, a prototype I've always liked despite its Swindon origins. It's been sat around waiting for me to do something about it because the wheels on the driven axle (Ultrascale) kept slipping and my efforts at cosmetic improvements had got as far as the brakegear. The former problem required a bit of bravery to rectify but was at least theoretically straightforward. The latter issue was was that the very nicely modelled brakes supplied by Bachmann were nowhere near the wheel treads in OO and were, if anything, even further away once the EM wheels went in. Besides all this, I wanted to fit some cosmetic frames behind the wheels just for the look of the thing. As you can see, there's nothing complicated about this. The cosmetic frames are simply strips of black 60 thou' epoxied to the chassis block in what is now a reasonably conventional fashion (see Tim Shackleton's conversions of Bachmann's std 4 2-6-4 tank and N class in MRJ a few years back). As you can see, I've made a few minor tweaks of my own in the form of the brass additions at the front which are really only there to provide a large surface area to fix the guard irons to. The little bits of tube protruding from the frames are what I do with kit or scratch built chassis and copy an idea I first encountered in a High Level kit. Pegs of 0.7mm brass wire at the top of the brake hangers clip the brakegear sub-assembly into position. This not only allows the brake gear to be easily removed but generally allows it to be modelled properly though in this instance I have made it a bit representative compared to the very detailed Bachmann moulding. This doesn't really matter since the thing can only really be seen in profile. The bits of tube also have the function of providing a mechanical fixing for the dummy frames which is no bad thing. All the various bits are from Mainly Trains etches, designed by Iain Rice. The scary operation of the evening was drilling through the boss on the back of the Ultrascale wheels, and pinning them firmly to the axle. The wheels are quartered, the chassis rolls very nicely and the epoxy should have cured by now. The slipping is not an issue I've had with Gibsons, interestingly enough, though I admit my experience with bigger locos is limited. I'd be interested whether anyone else has come across this. This one at least is on the home straight. Adam Edited March 31, 2014 by Adam Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted March 31, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 31, 2014 As fabulous as Ultrascale wheels are, they do seem to be made out of a material somewhere on the margarine side of the plastic spectrum. As I primarily model diesels, the only ones i have had an issue with are the 08's, which I have resorted to pinning, as you say, it needs a good sharp drill, a steady hand and a brave pill before embarking upon. Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now